Discussion in 'Amp Building/Technical/Repair' started by guitar69freak, Dec 28, 2019.
What is my best option to “plastic weld” this circuit board?
Plastic epoxy and jumper all traces?
You can probably order an unpopulated replacement board fairly cheap
Is it for this amp?
The one with the feedback issues?
Yes I’d just gotten some new caps and I just need to epoxy the circuit board and trace the leads.
I plan on using contact cement with something to reinforce it and use lengths of speaker wire to complete the circuit board.
What would you suggest?
5 minute epoxy ( dollar store cheap stuff ) ... then solder jumpers in place with rosin core solder
use 22 or lighter gauge wire to solder jumpers between the existing mounting holes/ components
some solid old bell house wire would work fine.
Save up for a new amp. Seriously.
Convert that amp into an extension cab.
I’ve decided to use PL Construction for more rigidity, I’ll let you know how that goes tomorrow.
I'd be looking at this as a learning situation. If it won't cost a lot, why not try and fix it and see how you do.
how tall was the building you threw it off of?
PL will stay flexi even after curing ... not a good choice ,
epoxy is cheap and you can add several layers to build it up ... even add a strip or two of cardboard top and bottom to prevent flex .
if you ARE looking for a flexi joint , just use a hot glue stick and the cardboard trick ...
errr.... that's why you jumper to the nearest solder joint .
and if any tracks run beside each other , try to twist the insulated repair wires together to avoid them becoming antennas ( like you twist tube heater wires )
The green stuff sprayed on the copper side will not take kindly to any solder. Were it my amp, I would scrape the coating away to reveal bare shiny copper, and use pieces of solid-core wire of sufficient gauge (I suspect #20 at least) to connect the two pieces of the board, once it has been epoxied or otherwise glued back together. For those portions that are wide, use a few pieces of wire to connect the edges. That should provide enough rigidity, in combination with the glue and the board-mounted pots attaching it to the chassis.
Just out of curiosity, how did it break?
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