# Electrolytic cans



## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

What are the best sources for replacement cans? I need to replace dual 40/450's, and prefer to retain the same form factor (cans).


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## nonreverb (Sep 19, 2006)

If they're the old silver US made ones, then CE Manufacturing are the exact replacements. They apparently bought the old Mallory tooling and they are the only ones that I'm aware of that produce that type can.


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## Cups (Jan 5, 2010)

Antique Electronic Supply has the CE cans. Capacitors | Antique Electronic Supply LLC

Havn't ordered from there specifically but they are certainly tube amp oriented.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Not to be a heretic or anything, but apart from the awkwardness of figuring out how to fit them in the space and connect them up, what would be so wrong in replacing such caps with "normal" 47uf/450vdc ones? I ask this purely out of curiosity. I'm open to the possibility that the form factor is also accompanied by certain performance differences. I am assuming that, since the caps in question are merely part of the power supply, that a little more capacitance (47uf vs 40uf) will not hurt anything.


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## washburned (Oct 13, 2006)

Cups said:


> Antique Electronic Supply has the CE cans. Capacitors | Antique Electronic Supply LLC
> 
> Havn't ordered from there specifically but they are certainly tube amp oriented.


Excellent outfit to deal with.


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## dtsaudio (Apr 15, 2009)

> what would be so wrong in replacing such caps with "normal" 47uf/450vdc ones? I ask this purely out of curiosity. I'm open to the possibility that the form factor is also accompanied by certain performance differences. I am assuming that, since the caps in question are merely part of the power supply, that a little more capacitance (47uf vs 40uf) will not hurt anything.


Nothing wrong with doing that. Unless my customer wants the vintage look, or there is a space issue I almost always replace with modern caps. It can be significantly less expensive.
Where you can run into an issue is with the multi-section caps, and you don't have enough room for 4 new caps.


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## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

While I appreciate your suggestions, there are a few reasons why I would prefer cans, if I can get them.

They would insure that all 350+ voltages remain under protective cover on the top side of the chassis. When axial-lead filter caps are incorporated into commercial designs, they are either covered by a metal tub, or they are fitted into the _inside_ of the chassis. Even in what we now refer to as the "vintage" era, _can_ electrolytics cost a premium over axial tubulars, yet the manufacturers elected to incorporate them, in spite of the added cost - I'm trying to follow their lead. Maybe it was required for CSA/UL approval, etc.

I'll accept that a group of tie-wrapped single caps, with proper lead dress and insulation, will offer equivalent performance at a reduced cost - that is fine for an amp that will never leave the custody of the re-builder's home, but if it changes hands, and goes out into the wild, it may join the ranks of two-prong power cords, ground switches, and "death" caps, i.e. a remote, but real hazard.

Aside from the above, preserving the esthetics (if you allow me to use that term here), is also a somewhat underlying objective. As a restorer, I'm not on the clock, and cost is not always a primary factor.

Hey, how about those guys (you know who you are) who insist on replacing, or adding wiring with "period-correct" cloth-covered wire? I'm in awe that they even _make_ that stuff anymore! And, Ebay lists wiring harnesses ripped out of old B&W TV's for sale, presumably because the wire is not only cloth covered, but _dirty_ too (this may, unfortunately be sought after by those building fraudulent relics).

OK, I'm rambling on here - thanks, time to quit.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Multi-Section Capacitors in the Electronic Parts Department at Parts Express | 1383
Amp Parts | Amplified Parts..... this is Antique Electronics out of Arizona. Same as link posted by washburned.
I have used both sites for dual caps. F.W.I.W.
No complaints with either. Shipping costs may dictate your choice.
Cheers, D


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## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

Perfect, D ! I checked the site & it's got what I need. - case closed - Thanks to all.


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## nonreverb (Sep 19, 2006)

I love the fact the CE is still manufacturing them. Leslie amps, believe it or not, have a plug-in base for the can cap! All that is required to replace it is undoing a bolt down skirt and clipping off one of the fastening lugs which orients the cap correctly.....and voila! A brilliant idea to say the least


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## Cups (Jan 5, 2010)

For the most part, cap cans are just as dangerous and exposed and axials. Nothing wrong with using cans, grounding them directly to the chassis is not the greatest idea though. (this is what Traynor did most times)


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## DavidP (Mar 7, 2006)

Ok, anyone actually tried to replace a cap can -- looks like I'll need to do this in my SF Vibro-Champ... 
Specifically, what wattage iron do you need to remove the current can as well as attach the new one? I doubt a standard 40w iron will even come close to generating enough heat!


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

The weller guns will do the job and fairly inexpensive.
Weller Soldering Gun Kit | Canadian Tire
I've seen alot of them for $10 to $20 in second hand and pawn shops.

Remove the wiring leads from the cap. 
Clip the mounting tabs off of the can with a good pair of side cutters,remove the cap then, with gun on high, heat the remaining tabs while adding some resin core solder to the tip to act as a thermal conductor.
A slight circular motion with the hot tip will quickly soften the solder on the chassis and aid in the removal of the tabs.


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## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

Ya, you'll need at least 100 watts.


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## DavidP (Mar 7, 2006)

Great, I'll keep my eyes open for a used one or one on sale. Whoah, the CDN Tire link points to a 200/260W version -- is that overkill or can I get by with slightly less wattage but still over 100W, for example, Mastercraft 233/150W Soldering Kit | Canadian Tire that Mastercraft stuff often goes on sale!


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## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

From my experience, I would guess that 150W would be my choice. I found that 100W was not quite enough.
OTOH, there is not much risk with using something hotter, since the parts you are taking out are garbage, and a _lot_ of heat for a _short_ time may make it easier than vice-versa. The 233/150W sounds like the tool for the job.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

DavidP said:


> Great, I'll keep my eyes open for a used one or one on sale. Whoah, the CDN Tire link points to a 200/260W version -- is that overkill or can I get by with slightly less wattage but still over 100W, for example, Mastercraft 233/150W Soldering Kit | Canadian Tire that Mastercraft stuff often goes on sale!


 Overkill is not really a concern when your soldering to a chassis. 
The Weller has 2 heat ranges, I've been using the same gun for years.
The Mastercraft may be Made In China.
If the Weller is still made on this side of the pond, it should last you a lifetime,or two!
Hard to kill the old Weller guns.
Tips can be replaced with a chunk of _solid copper wire_ found in 10 to 12 guage Romex cable.
Buy a foot or two and U have a cheap source of tips for a long time.
Cheers, d


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