# good wood?



## guitaristgibson (Dec 23, 2008)

hello, im am 14 and taking on my first project, on my sg ( http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/EGG5AIGH/ ) i am going to take off the pick guard, the les paul custom plate (right below the neck) and the the plate on the back that covers up the knob electronics (also on the piece that ocvers the knob electronics there is like tinfoil tape on the inside the side that faces the knobs, not sure if thats important of not), and going to make some replacements out off some, well.... wood, i am also taking off my knobs and making woods ones. i am looking at a piece off wood on ebay ( its really nice ) and im just wondering after getting it shipped should i keep it inside for a while or is there anything special i have to do before cutting it up and putting it on my axe? Also will putting some varathan clear coat semi-gloss on it make it look good before i put it on my guitar, or is there a better product to make it look good and or steps i should do to make it look the best it can ( eg - sanding/polishing ) ??? any suggestions will help as this is my first project!!!!

wood is here! - 

http://cgi.ebay.ca/PREM-QUILTED-MAP...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:15|39:1|240:1318


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## claptonfreak (Apr 12, 2008)

I don't know what you really hope to accomplish with this wood that you are buying. To answer your question about the wood, as long as you keep it in a humidity controlled environment you don't need to do anything special to it before cutting it up. But the big question is, what do you want to do with it, do you want to make wooden replacements for the pickguard, back plate, and SG custom plate?


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

if the wood is already dry - to between 6 and 8% moisture content you shouldnt have too much issue with it. If it is coming from somewhere where the RH is much higher than here in Ontario (like from the coast) it may need to be left indoors to lower the MC a bit. If you slice it thin, and it dries further, I guarantee you will have issues with warping.

To make a pickguard, I would suggest you buy some nicely figured veneers, and laminate them to something like a piece of 1/32 ply (you can get real birch multi player plywood that thin from a decent hobby shop). Try A&M wood specialty in Cambridge for a small piece of figured maple if thats what you are after.

Just my opinion...

As for finishing, Varathane is a very good brand of polyurethane, and you can even buy it in a spray can. Build up thin coats, sanding with 240 grit paper in between and you can get a really nice finish.

If I were 14, and looking to improve my woodworking skills I would still (as I suggested to you in the previous thread you had) maybe look into getting a part time job - even sweeping up or helping out - at a small woodworking shop. Learning the fundamentals of woodworking is KEY in my opinion to becoming a luthier. I have said it before many times, and will say it again... get a good understanding of woodworking, and it will help you more than you could imagine in building guitars.

AJC


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

PS the foil is there to act as a both a ground to electrically connect the pots to one another, and as shielding.


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## Matthew (Jan 19, 2009)

AJC is right and I am a perfect example. I am a first year cabinet making apprentice and the time I have spent in the shop so far (about a thousand hours ) has been invaluable. You will learn things that would 'nt even cross your mind. Like how to cut wood. There 4 to 6 things you need to know before you can cut one piece of wood depending on the material. So before you buy the wood you better know what to do with it. I am definately still learning and will be for many years. Its cool that you have an idea of what you want to do at 14. Working at a custom cabinet shop will introduce you to the principals. It will also get you good offcuts for making jigs. Try and build everything yourself. If you need cam clamps and have time, make them. It will only improve your skills. The first thing you need to own is a good 6 inch ruler. Good luck.


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## guitaristgibson (Dec 23, 2008)

wow ok thanks alot guys but over load with info lol so for the finishing i should do a coat then sand then do a coat and so on? and like after my last coat what should i do, polish it? also yes i am looking to make replacement parts because i love the natural finish. since i am not an expert on the subject i will need all the detail. also im aware of the warping factor. i just need help through the project if anyone is willing to volunteer lol. also does anyone know of a wood hobby shop or cabinet maker in st.catharines, welland or the GTA?

also kinda sounding noobish but what is laminating? and so i would get some veneer and "laminate it to plywood then cut it up and finish it?
sorry for all the questions i am really confused?

thanks, 
nick


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

guitaristgibson said:


> wow ok thanks alot guys but over load with info lol so for the finishing i should do a coat then sand then do a coat and so on? and like after my last coat what should i do, polish it? also yes i am looking to make replacement parts because i love the natural finish. since i am not an expert on the subject i will need all the detail. also im aware of the warping factor. i just need help through the project if anyone is willing to volunteer lol. also does anyone know of a wood hobby shop or cabinet maker in st.catharines, welland or the GTA?
> 
> also kinda sounding noobish but what is laminating? and so i would get some veneer and "laminate it to plywood then cut it up and finish it?
> sorry for all the questions i am really confused?
> ...



Nick,
Laminating is just a fancy term for "gluing" used a lot when you are talking gluing thin layers together instead of boards. So when you take the wood veneer and glue it to the thin plywood you are "laminating" them together. An easy way to to that on a small piece is to coat the ply with glue, and clamp on the veneer using a small scrap of plywood with a piece of plastic bag between it and the veneer. The plastic will prevent the glue from seeping through the wood veneer, and the scrap plywood will evenly distribute the pressure.

When you finish wood, and want to get a really shiny finish, you first need to build up a bunch of this coats. Scuff (light) sanding between coats will make the final buff and polish much easier. Spray on a thin coat or two, let it dry well. Then sand it smooth. Apply a few more coats... etc. Then, when you are done, you can wet sand with 600, then 1200 grit paper and then polish it up with some rubbing compound (like what you would use to remove scratches from a car) on a soft cloth (like a piece of an old T shirt).

I suggest getting more wood working info by reading magazines like fine woodworking, which may be in the local library... or other wood working books. LOTS of good info out there to be had for free!

AJC


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Study some of the build threads. In this section for a start.


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## guitaristgibson (Dec 23, 2008)

thanks AJC that was alot of really helpful information

1. for the plastic in between the clamps should it just be say one side from a garbage bag? or multiple layers? or do i surroud the whole thing in a garbage bag?
2. also what is wet sanding? im trying to find it on the internet but there is only definitions for wet sanding cars. 
3. also for the finish would varathane spray and turtle wax do?
4. would home depot or home hardware supply the 1/32" plywood?
5. im assuming when laminating this is wood glue?
6. for the scuff sanding what grit paper should i be using? and should i be using a rotary sander or by hand? 
7. is there a special way to cut the plywood or veneer because it is really thin?

keep in mind i have alot of tools at my disposal

sorry for the absolute bombardment of questions im just really eager to start my first project up, well not first i just finish a pedal board for my peds.
p.s. after i hopefully get a response from these q's im gunna post a step by step of what i think im supposed to be doing to make sure its right


thanks,
nick


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## johnglca (Mar 10, 2008)

First off, I suggest you buy a good book on wood refinishing, there are several from Lee Valley, or get one of the Fine Woodworking texts.

My thoughts are:
1. you need rubber pads between the clamps, which come with the clamps or can be purchased. Gargage bags will not do it.
2. You can wet sand between layers of finish using either water as a lubricant with sanding powder (pumice etc), buy fine sanding compound, or use mineral oil and wet dry paper of different grades (400-800). You need to check this out with a finishing text and practice on scrap wood.
3. I do not like varnish as a finish for guitars, what about spray laquer, or rubbed oil (wet sanding) like True Oil, or an oil-varnish mix, or French polish. Wax will go over anything, not sure this matters too much. Again, check out Fine Woodworking, you can probably order their finishing publications on line.
4. Not sure what you are laminating, but this is a guitar, so I would check out a specialty store, there are lots around. 
5. There are lots of different glues around, but PVA type glue will work just fine (ie common wood glue).
6. Depends on what you are doing, avoid rotary sanders for this work, it leaves swirl marks that are hard to remove. Hand sanding has its own problems. Did I mention getting a finishing book, this will all be covered.
7. Yes, there are special blades that work very well with plywood.

Check out Exotic Woods, close to you, or Unicorn Woods in Toronto.


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## guitaristgibson (Dec 23, 2008)

thanks alot, 
if you get a chance link me a good book that maybe you have used or would recommend.

really waiting for AJC answer lol hes kinda been guiding me through this so far

thanks,
nick

p.s. i am making a pickgaurd for an SG


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

guitaristgibson said:


> thanks AJC that was alot of really helpful information
> 
> 1. for the plastic in between the clamps should it just be say one side from a garbage bag? or multiple layers? or do i surroud the whole thing in a garbage bag?
> 2. also what is wet sanding? im trying to find it on the internet but there is only definitions for wet sanding cars.
> ...


Nick,
To answer your questions:

1- yes, a piece of garbage bag will do, as will ANY plastic. in my shop, I use clear plastic vapour barrier that comes on a roll for a glue-release. The plastic is ONLY there to prevent the glue that may squeeze through the veneer from gluing the plywood (which is there to evenly distribute the clamping pressure and make sure the veneer lays flat) to the veneer.

2 - wet sanding is exaclty what it is - using a waterproof sand paper, and soaking the paper in water for a bit, then keeping the surface you are sanding wet while you sand. The reason is this - the water acts as a lubricant to prevent heat build up, and also keeps the sanding "dust" as a slurry which doesnt clog up the sandpaper. If you dry and dry sand with super fine grits, the paper doesnt last very long at all.

3- varathane is fine. NO WAX! You want POLISH. The idea is to use a fine abrasive polish to give the finish the final shine after the 1200 grit paper. After you polish it, you can use a wax to shine it further. But what you want is a fine abrasive, sinilar to what would be used on a car to touch up scuffs and fine scratches.

4- 1/32 ply is not used for many things except in model planes and maybe in crafts, etc. I would try a craft or hobby shop. I doubt the Home Depot will have anything less than 1/8. You can try FLitecraft Hobbies in Kitchener, or one of many in Toronto like Hobby Hobby or A&J Hobbies, or Sky CRaft Hobbies in Burlington. Ideal Hobbies in Barrie as well. 1/16 ply may be better..... 1/32 may be a little thin anyhow.

5- yes, plain old white or yellow carpenters glue

6 - I use 220 to 320 grit for scuff sanding in between coats. Just by hand.

7- you can actually cut it with a sharp knife (like an Olfa or Xacto).

Also, if you would rather talk to me on the phone, just pm me and we can set up a time maybe on the weekend. I would like to help you out. I started guitar making when I was 15 and I appreciate the difficulties you might be facing when you start out.

ANDREW


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

guitaristgibson said:


> thanks alot,
> if you get a chance link me a good book that maybe you have used or would recommend.
> 
> really waiting for AJC answer lol hes kinda been guiding me through this so far
> ...


I will make you a deal... if you want, I can send you some supplies for you to fool around with. I have a LOT of veneer (I am a cabinetmaker by trade - my business is making custom furniture and so forth) in my shop. I will send you a little "CARE" package with some veneer, some plywood, some finishing supplies, etc. NO CHARGE. Just PM me a mailing address, and I will set you up. Good sandpaper, etc. Once you have all this in your hands you can see what I mean.

As for finishing books - a really good one is older, but still great: its printed by the company that prints Fine Woodworking magazine. I bought a copy about 20 years ago. Will have to get the name when I go to work tomorrow (all my books are in my woodshop).

If you want to see some of my guitar builds, which are quite detailed, just have a look over at the HArmony Central electric guitar forums... here is a list of them:

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1513446&page=3

go down to post #57


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## guitaristgibson (Dec 23, 2008)

pm'ed

im glad there are people like you in the world,
thanks man


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Aj you got a spare thickness sander you can send me? 

You are an nice guy.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

shoretyus said:


> Aj you got a spare thickness sander you can send me?
> 
> You are an nice guy.


I only have one, and it weighs two metric tons... 

You figure out how much Canpost will charge you for it 

AJC

PS we have to help these young guys who want to learn, right?


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

ajcoholic said:


> I only have one, and it weighs two metric tons...
> 
> You figure out how much Canpost will charge you for it
> 
> ...


Yeah ...not good to discourage them.

I had a forum member over a couple of weeks ago gave him a set of Tele blueprints. His build is just flying along. He has some wood working experience but I was able to give him some tips that come from doing it :smile:

Guitaristgibson lots of young kids build guitars. Just be cautious. Try and find somebody that has some woodworking skills that will help speed up the learning curve. Woodworkers are like guitarists and like to show off their skills. 

There is a thread here about the Dublincaster.. http://www.guitarscanada.com/Board/showthread.php?t=5503&highlight=Dublin 
A great picture of his uncle and father routing the body. The router is the scariest part of the project.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

I just had a flashback... to when I was a young kid and I was so small, my father had to make me a step stool/box to stand on, in order for me to use the bandsaw! 

Yes, he was more concerned with my ability to learn to use woodworking tools than my safety  I was a lucky kid...

AJC


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

ajcoholic said:


> I just had a flashback...
> 
> AJC


Didn't think you were like that :sport-smiley-002:

A guitar build will teach him all the basics for sure..Bandsaw, routing, drilling, accurate measuring and template making , sanding, finishing and hardware setup. And with a little bad luck tool maintenance. It will also hone his computer skills in searching for parts and information. 

I was a late bloomer. We had no shop in my school. I ended up going to work for a guy on my 21st birthday. He was trying to start a woodshop with not much experience but large ambitions. We couldn't survived with out Fine woodworking. kkjwpwBut I had to learn all the extra stuff like moving stuff. He bought this 1922 double strcke sander that was huge. ( 30' belt) It took me a day and half to come-along it across the shop floor and get it in place.


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