# The Yellowbrick kit builders.



## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

Share your builds here.
Picked up the Super Screamer. Coming along nicely. Great quality parts is a major help.


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

Looking great Chuck!


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

Coming together slowly. Checking each resistor with a meter is time consuming. Old eyes aren't as good as they used to be lol


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

RBlakeney said:


> I don't know how to do anything, and have never built a pedal. So stock, likely with a non functioning mod.


Pick up one of these from Amazon. Best $16 you can spend (Amazon.ca) I bought one for something to practice on. It comes with a circuit board, parts, and an excellent tutorial in the form of a booklet. Part of the board allows you to practice soldering then you can move on to installing the components to make an oscillator. It’s a dumb project but the learning relates to pedal building directly. I’m going to send one to my nephew.

Practical Soldering Project Kit - Elenco

I just noticed the above link let’s you download the manual for free! Such a deal!


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

What goes here? Seems too big for pot lugs.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

BSTheTech said:


> What goes here? Seems too big for pot lugs.
> 
> View attachment 244504


Clipping switch


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

What’s the reason for the square traces? I thought it signified polarity (Positive) but the Ground is square too.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

I was thinking polarity too. All the squares in the diode map are connected in pairs


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

The positive sides of the caps are square tabs also


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

BSTheTech said:


> Pick up one of these from Amazon. Best $16 you can spend (Amazon.ca) I bought one for something to practice on. It comes with a circuit board, parts, and an excellent tutorial in the form of a booklet. Part of the board allows you to practice soldering then you can move on to installing the components to make an oscillator. It’s a dumb project but the learning relates to pedal building directly. I’m going to send one to my nephew.
> 
> Practical Soldering Project Kit - Elenco
> 
> I just noticed the above link let’s you download the manual for free! Such a deal!


So to be fair I can solder alright, I just haven't built a pedal before.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

RBlakeney said:


> So to be fair I can solder alright, I just haven't built a pedal before.


The manual is excellent. All the parts are labeled and oriented on the board. There's even a drilling diagram, but have an adult cut out the drilling template for you lol. Handling a 450 degree soldering iron while sniffing solder fumes is perfectly fine lol


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

chuck_zc said:


> The manual is excellent. All the parts are labeled and oriented on the board. There's even a drilling diagram, but have an adult cut out the drilling template for you lol. Handling a 450 degree soldering iron while sniffing solder fumes is perfectly fine lol
> View attachment 244522


I will not be able to use that because I have a foolish enclosure because I like to spend money on jokes.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

The square pads are square simply to be a little bigger and take/dissipate heat better (the solder lugs of the toggle are bigger and will require a little more sustained heat to solder to the board).

It's a good idea to familiarize yourself and understand the circuit schematic, rather than adopt a paint-by-numbers approach, despite how straightforward the latter may be. Projects like this are certainly much less prone to errors than the tagboard/vero layouts I see posted around, but successful builds rely on the builder's ability to look at the board, know what the component is "doing" and be able to say to themselves "That doesn't look right". It's also more helpful when it comes to the inevitable troubleshooting.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

That's true Philippe. I graduated from a 2 years electronics service tech course 20 something years ago. Back then I could do the math and figure out the circuit with pencil and paper. I forgot a lot of the stuff I learned back then. The kit is a really good refresher to see how the actual components interact with each other. The included schematic is laid out really well and very easy to follow


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

I'm full out going to do a paint by numbers approach. If I enjoy making this I will attempt to learn more things.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

RBlakeney said:


> I'm full out going to do a paint by numbers approach. If I enjoy making this I will attempt to learn more things.


If it enables your ongoing or growing interest in making your own gear, then it's a justifiable and commendable point of entry. Personally, I found that the more I understood about the inner workings, the more I was prompted to think up my own solutions to things, understand repairs, or even design new things.

The construction manuals that PAiA used to provide for their kits 40 years ago pretty much set the benchmark that is followed by others like BYOC, et al, these days. They allow for a paint-by-numbers build/installation, but explain along the way.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

This was a mistake


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

Slow and steady wins the race lol


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

RBlakeney said:


> This was a mistake


Just keep your meter handy so you can verify which resistors are which. It's good that they're 1% metal film, for noise purposes. But I find I have to regularly verify the values with a meter, simply because those 5 stripes can sometimes have plausible values if read in the "wrong" direction. Just gotta measure 'em, is all. I will also put in a word for a magnifying glass, or if your vision is still decent, get a pair of 3.50 reading glasses from the Dollar store to make things a little more legible.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> Just keep your meter handy so you can verify which resistors are which. It's good that they're 1% metal film, for noise purposes. But I find I have to regularly verify the values with a meter, simply because those 5 stripes can sometimes have plausible values if read in the "wrong" direction. Just gotta measure 'em, is all. I will also put in a word for a magnifying glass, or if your vision is still decent, get a pair of 3.50 reading glasses from the Dollar store to make things a little more legible.


I found my meter so that I can figure out which is which atleast. I definitely could have used. A more simple build to start haha


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Might be useful to keep a piece of masking tape or painter's tape handy as well. Group the resistors together by value, stick their leads to the tape, and write their value on the tape. Think of it like a teensy weensy set of parts drawers.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> Might be useful to keep a piece of masking tape or painter's tape handy as well. Group the resistors together by value, stick their leads to the tape, and write their value on the tape. Think of it like a teensy weensy set of parts drawers.


I figured this was the easiest way.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Looks good. My own practice would be to make sure to scrape off the adhesive from the leads, or wipe it off with some sort of solvent, before inserting into the board. It's good to confirm the resistor values, but it's also good to prevent cold solder joints. 

But you're on your way. Keep us/me posted.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

This is what I got done before the boss got home.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> Looks good. My own practice would be to make sure to scrape off the adhesive from the leads, or wipe it off with some sort of solvent, before inserting into the board. It's good to confirm the resistor values, but it's also good to prevent cold solder joints.
> 
> But you're on your way. Keep us/me posted.


Very little adhesive on it. It's painting tape so essentially green paper.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

Should have probably asked this first, but does it matter which direction any of the resistors anything are wired? Is there a positive or negative side that matter?

I assume there is just for caps since they have positive markers on the board.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

RBlakeney said:


> Should have probably asked this first, but does it matter which direction any of the resistors anything are wired? Is there a positive or negative side that matter?
> 
> I assume there is just for caps since they have positive markers on the board.


Resistors aren't polarized. Throw em in however ya like. There are "polarized" resistors but they're in a multi-pin package. They share a common point


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Boy, you really ARE a beginner! No problem. You're not in far enough for anything to be amiss or at risk.

Resistors work no matter which direction they are in. 
Non-polarized capacitors, whether plastic of some form or ceramic of some form, also work regardless of direction.
Polarized capacitors come in two forms relevant to us: electrolytic and tantalum. Both require correct orientation to do their job. I don't see any tantalum in your initial picture, but I do spot several electrolytic types (the tubular shapes). They will normally have a stripe, indicating the negative side/lead, and occasionally a "+" shown for the other lead. One of the other modern conventions which comes in handy is that PC boards wil show a square pad for the positive lead, and round pad for the negative one. Happily, your board observes this standard.

Orientation of the op-amp chips is, naturally, critical. Most will have a little half-moon cutout/notch at one end, so you can line it up properly with the board image. Some, however, may simply have a little dimple on the surface of the chip. The standard, regardless of dimple-vs-notch is to have any printing/numbering on the chip aligned so that it sits "above" pins 1-4, and "underneath" pins 8-5.

Chips are not highly susceptible to getting fried, but as a beginner, there may be some initial errors in judgment of how much heat to apply. So I'll suggest soldering two pins on each chip, to hold it in place, moving on to the next chip while the previous ones cool off. They don't have to drop to room temperature, but this will provide a bit of time for the heat to dissipate...as insurance.

The other orientation to pay attention to is the stripe on the diode. And again, happily that is shown on the board. The board suggests that one of the diodes is a zener type. The diodes will be labelled, but the print will be small.

Finally, pots. If you are looking at a pot, head-on, the goal is that as the pot is rotated clockwise, the resistance between the wiper and the contact on the right gets smaller, and the resistance between the wiper and left contact gets larger. Admittedly, how any board-maker chooses to imagine how you will install the pots can vary. Hopefully, the instructions accompanying the kit make it clear, with pictures, how to connect the pots.

And just so you know, if the pot says something like "A10K", the A signifies a logarithmic rate of change, whereas B10K signifies a linear rate of change. If you ever observe C, that means "reverse log" anti-logarithmic, while W means log in one direction from the midpoint and antilog in the other. C-type is often used for adjusting speed/rate where there is some form of modulation, and W is generally used for some kinds of tonal boost/cut controls.

Carry on.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> Boy, you really ARE a beginner! No problem. You're not in far enough for anything to be amiss or at risk.
> 
> Resistors work no matter which direction they are in.
> Non-polarized capacitors, whether plastic of some form or ceramic of some form, also work regardless of direction.
> ...


i sure am. Hence my delving into electronics that won’t kill me haha.
Here are the caps. Now just trying to figure out all the values. Some are easier than others.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

It generally requires 3 digits to convey the rating of a cap: two for the specific value increment, and one for the multiplier. So, "473" means 47 with three zeroes after it (i.e., 47000pf or .047uf or 47nf), and "331" means 33 with one zero after it (i.e., 330pf). If you see something like "68" on a small ceramic disc, that will mean 68pf, since no further zeroes are needed.

And in keeping with that if you see "10/35" on an electrolytic or tantalum capacitor, the first number will generally refer to the value in microfarads/uf, and the second refer to the voltage rating (35V in this case). The overwhelming majority of new plastic or ceramic caps will have voltage ratings well in excess of what might matter to us guitar folk. However it is generally considered good practice to use caps rated at least 50% higher than the supply voltage. So, if one was planning to increase the supply voltage to 18V, you'd want to be sure the caps were rated at 27V or more, with 25V and 35V ratings being standard (so use 35V). If the caps were rated at 25V, then you probably wouldn't want to feed the overall circuit more than maybe 15V, just to be safe.

The exception is for the reference voltage. Our kinds of pedals use a single-ended supply: +9V and 0V, rather the +9/0/-9. They "fake" a middle by taking the +9V (+12V, +15, or whatever you use), and dividing it in half with a pair of equal-value resistors. There is generally a medium-value electrolytic cap from that midpoint to ground, like you see in the upper right-hand corner in the TS-808 drawing below. Since the "reference" voltage is only half of V+ (the supply voltage), the voltage rating of that cap (47uf in this instance) can afford to be lower. In the old days, that used to matter, since higher voltage ratings were pricier and larger. These days it doesn't matter quite as much, since the caps are all cheap and small. Still, if one wants to power a pedal with a higher voltage, it pays to check the voltage ratings on all electros in the circuit, just to be on the safe side.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

For something like these, that I can’t see identifiable marks for + and - is there another way to check?


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

That's not a polarized cap. It's a plastic non-polarized type. It just happens to have a "box" shape. The nice thing about those is that the value is printed on top so they're easy to read once installed.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> That's not a polarized cap. It's a plastic non-polarized type. It just happens to have a "box" shape. The nice thing about those is that the value is printed on top so they're easy to read once installed.


Ok. I think I may be confused again (surprised I know). 
The c9 and c10 areas should be the 1uF film caps. 
Is that the right one?
If so did they mark the board with a positive incase there was a polarized cap put there?
I just don’t want to blow things up


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Yes, those big square honkers are non-polarized film types. They do make non-polarized electrolytics. But whereas nobody makes rectangular electrolytics of any form (yet), round non-polarized electrolytics will say "NP" on the side, and will not have any stripe to indicate polarity because it doesn't _have_ polarity. Box film types CAN come in values over 1uf (I have some 2u2 in my bins), but they tend to be fairly large, and are frequently used for things like speaker crossovers.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

RBlakeney said:


> Ok. I think I may be confused again (surprised I know).
> The c9 and c10 areas should be the 1uF film caps.
> Is that the right one?
> If so did they mark the board with a positive incase there was a polarized cap put there?
> ...


Looking really clean. One tip I'll throw at ya. What I do when I'm populating a board is to do so by height of the components, resistors first, then sockets, small caps, larger caps, switches etc. Makes holding the parts to the board easier when you flip it over to solder. The weight of the board will hold the components in place while you're soldering


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

Well here’s where I am so far.


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Compare it to this one. Looks like the bottom right diodes might be backwards, unless the layout changed.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

BSTheTech said:


> Compare it to this one. Looks like the bottom right diodes might be backwards, unless the layout changed.
> 
> View attachment 244890


I'm not sure. I matched the lines with the lines on the board. You can see them under it. I started on the enclosure today. It's going to be hilarious.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

The board is plated through. That implies that if you solder a component lead on the bottom side, one should see signs that the solder has "filled up the hole" and would be visible as such from the top. I'm not seeing that here. Have you simply installed the components in unsoldered form at the moment?


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> The board is plated through. That implies that if you solder a component lead on the bottom side, one should see signs that the solder has "filled up the hole" and would be visible as such from the top. I'm not seeing that here. Have you simply installed the components in unsoldered form at the moment?


They are all soldered on, I'll take a picture from the other side, if you think I need to use more solder. Any input on the diodes being the right or wrong way?


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

RBlakeney said:


> They are all soldered on, I'll take a picture from the other side, if you think I need to use more solder. Any input on the diodes being the right or wrong way?


From all outward appearances, you have the stripes lined up with the legending. In the absence of a schematic, that's pretty much all I have to go on.

You certainly don't have to, and probably shouldn't, glob on the solder. The objective is always "just enough".


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

RBlakeney said:


> They are all soldered on, I'll take a picture from the other side, if you think I need to use more solder. Any input on the diodes being the right or wrong way?


I agree with @mhammer . You should use enough solder to see filets on the component side of the board. The example below yours show this.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

RBlakeney said:


> I'm not sure. I matched the lines with the lines on the board. You can see them under it. I started on the enclosure today. It's going to be hilarious.





mhammer said:


> From all outward appearances, you have the stripes lined up with the legending. In the absence of a schematic, that's pretty much all I have to go on.
> 
> You certainly don't have to, and probably shouldn't, glob on the solder. The objective is always "just enough".


Those are Russian (Soviet era) germanium diodes. The stripes do NOT follow convention from what I recall ( used the same or similar ones on my Klone build - they were so anti doing things the same as the yanks they even called the Police the Militia so that wasn't the same). The stripes on the board will work for western convention parts only, which is just about anything made today; those are NOS.

If you have a meter with diode test ( forward coltage ) function you can use that to check the polarity. You should have been doing that anyway - the Aion documentation gives the range that most closely matches the diodes in the original Klon). My memory is foggy on this score because I built mine a while back but if there are pics online of them installed the other way then Im pretty sure this is why. I definately recall agonising over this same issue for way too long, whatever the outcome, so that lends credibility to the theory. I’d offer to just go check mine but it’s at the studio. 

.... on the other hand, since these are symetrical clipping diodes, so back to back, one fliped round polarity wise from the other, it may not matter at all as long as you put them both in wrong ( or right) - same thing no matter which is first. Now if it was the power supply section that would be a problem, but it aint.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

The "correct" orientation can be confirmed using the diode measurement option on your meter.

This is the first time I've ever heard of reverse-striped Soviet-era diodes.


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

I made a thing!


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> The "correct" orientation can be confirmed using the diode measurement option on your meter.
> 
> This is the first time I've ever heard of reverse-striped Soviet-era diodes.


Sounds like a tomorrow thing.


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

BSTheTech said:


> Compare it to this one. Looks like the bottom right diodes might be backwards, unless the layout changed.
> 
> View attachment 244890


That is correct. The colored band is the anode on these. The Russians got it backwards!


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

YellowBrick said:


> That is correct. The colored band is the anode on these. The Russians got it backwards!


Amazing - I actually remembered that correctly.

On the other hand - does it matter if he's got both of them in backwards (as they are just symetrical clipping diodes)? I mean learning to desolder is a necessary skill but, why make him bother with it (even with these boards is it possible to lift a trace).


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

Granny Gremlin said:


> Amazing - I actually remembered that correctly.
> 
> On the other hand - does it matter if he's got both of them in backwards (as they are just symetrical clipping diodes)? I mean learning to desolder is a necessary skill but, why make him bother with it (even with these boards is it possible to lift a trace).


It doesn't matter at all (except if your ocd like myself) so yes leave them in place like they are!


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Ok what is this thing? Process of elimination tells me its C16 which is a 1uF Tantalum capacitor but the label says 1-35 +M (2). How do you get 1uF from that or am I wrong?


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

BSTheTech said:


> Ok what is this thing? Process of elimination tells me its C16 which is a 1uF Tantalum capacitor but the label says 1-35 +M (2). How do you get 1uF from that or am I wrong?
> View attachment 245076


Tantalum cap - the other cap type that is polarised as @mhammer elucidated above.


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Ok I think it means 1 uF 35 Volts


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Granny Gremlin said:


> Tantalum cap - the other cap type that is polarised as @mhammer elucidated above.


Ok, the legs are the same length. Is the +M(2) the positive leg?


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

RBlakeney said:


> Well here’s where I am so far.
> View attachment 244888


Just comparing your finished board to my list. I think you have C6 and C8 mixed up.

Check out this converter;

Calculate 3 digit capacitor: 394

My Caps


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

BSTheTech said:


> Ok, the legs are the same length. Is the +M(2) the positive leg?


Yup. On tantalums, there is no stripe to indicate the negative side, just a + to indicate the positive side. When the cap is small, and jostled around in a parts drawer, the + can get compromized and hard to read. So if you stick 'em in a drawer, treat them with respect if you wish to be able to read them down the line.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

BSTheTech said:


> Ok, the legs are the same length. Is the +M(2) the positive leg?


Yup. On tantalums, there is no stripe to indicate the negative side, just a + to indicate the positive side. When the cap is small, and jostled around in a parts drawer, the + can get compromized and hard to read. So if you stick 'em in a drawer, treat them with respect if you wish to be able to read them down the line.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

BSTheTech said:


> Just comparing your finished board to my list. I think you have C6 and C8 mixed up.
> 
> Check out this converter;
> 
> ...


Very possible.


Edit. Not very possible. Definitely.

Next edit. Fixed now.


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Ok I have one bastard child resistor (or maybe it’s a red headed step child). The stripes say 382k, the multimeter says 396k and the parts list says 392k. I’m thinking a typo on the parts list? R20. It’s a 1% resistor though.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I'm assuming it's a 390k 1% resistor? orange-white-black-orange


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

mhammer said:


> I'm assuming it's a 390k 1% resistor? orange-white-black-orange


Right! I thought the white was gray. All good now. Thank you Sir!


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

The birth of the long c(l)on


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Howzit sound compared to the Centura?


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

BSTheTech said:


> Howzit sound compared to the Centura?


Pretty well the exact same.

The fact that it works without having to fix anything after it's put together is a win in my books, the fact that it sounds great is just icing!


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

RBlakeney said:


> The birth of the long c(l)on


Awesome!!!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

RBlakeney said:


> The birth of the long c(l)on


Good one! 

Impressive build in a spacious enclosure with very tidy work!



RBlakeney said:


> The fact that it works without having to fix anything after it's put together is a win in my books, the fact that it sounds great is just icing!


Congrats! The love and mojo you put into each and every solder joint paid off.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Congrats. But I have to ask: why THAT chassis?


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

mhammer said:


> Congrats. But I have to ask: why THAT chassis?


I assumed it was essential for marketing the new"*Long C(l)on*" model.


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

mhammer said:


> Congrats. But I have to ask: why THAT chassis?


Because it couldn’t be a long c(l)on if it wasn’t long.


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## Frenchy99 (Oct 15, 2016)

Great job !

Very educational thread ...


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## RBlakeney (Mar 12, 2017)

Frenchy99 said:


> Great job !
> 
> Very educational thread ...


It was a fun experience.
Definitely learned a lot thanks to some of the forum members here!


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Just be sure to pass it on.


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## Cardamonfrost (Dec 12, 2018)

Cool, makes me wish I took pics of the BYOC Green Pony I finished a couple days ago. Went through the same thing with the resistor staging, I ended up poking them into a chunk of Styrofoam and writing the values right on the foam for easy access.

C


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

I'm missing the 4k7 resistor for the LED (LEDR). I have one in my spares that is 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt. Is it ok to use it? I think I have room for it.


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

BSTheTech said:


> I'm missing the 4k7 resistor for the LED (LEDR). I have one in my spares that is 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt. Is it ok to use it? I think I have room for it.


Ah! Sorry about that, my mistake!

You can use the 1/2W no problem. You can also use a higher value, that's what I did with my builds because I also though the LED was too bright with a 4k7 resistor.


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

YellowBrick said:


> Ah! Sorry about that, my mistake!
> 
> You can use the 1/2W no problem. You can also use a higher value, that's what I did with my builds because I also though the LED was too bright with a 4k7 resistor.


Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. Ya, good idea, I was reading about correct resistor values for LEDS and it seems you can fudge them a little. Thanks!


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

Getting there!


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

Defenitly not my neatest work,but,it works nonetheless. Not a bad sound either. Would work nicely with a hot amp or drive after it.


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

Looks great from here! Good job 

I'm happy you like the sound too. Cheers Chuck!


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

Builders, surprisingly I have two Guv'nor kits left. My favorite OD pedal, very organic, the first "amp in a box" in history 

Any takers?


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

At band rehearsal now, and the Super Screamer totally kicked my modded TS9 off my board and said don't come back lol.


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## BSTheTech (Sep 30, 2015)

I’m waiting for my box to get back from powder coating, and a different cap to modify the tone circuit. Should have it together in a week or so.

I’m thinking of calling it the Man Horse and making the sticker too long so it wraps around the side leaving Man Hor on the front.


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

When you're stuck for a graphic but have a drilling guide and Mod-Podge on hand


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

Awesome!


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## chuck_zc (Dec 6, 2009)

Got bored with the white and went with some model airplane decals I forgot I had lol


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Damn! Now I want a pedal with Charge Access, Fuel Cell Access, and Tank Drain. Not to mention Aileron anything. Very cool!


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