# Dating a Traynor YSR-1



## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

Hi;

I just bought a Traynor YS-1. Its in great shape and it sounds wonderful. I'm curious about its age. Its got Hammond power and output transformers and a Hammond choke. I don't know what the reverb transformer is. 

The corners are rounded. I've located a couple of YSR-1 schemtics, but I don't see the choke. I installed a three-prong plug and while I was in there I should have traced things out a bit, but I was eager to get it fired up.

I don't see any serial numbers. How would I go about determing its age?

thanks;

Louis

ps. Yes, I did buy it flowers.


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## Jeff Flowerday (Jan 23, 2006)

Have you tried this site?

http://www.informatik.uni-bremen.de/~dace/vb/


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

*Ys-1*

Jeff;

Yes I have, but the codes on the caps don't look anything like the numbers shown on the site, they don't even look like EIA codes. They're Canadian Mallorys.

Apart from the caps I see no other numbers anywhere.

thanks;

Louis



Jeff Flowerday said:


> Have you tried this site?
> 
> http://www.informatik.uni-bremen.de/~dace/vb/


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## Jeff Flowerday (Jan 23, 2006)

louislouis_99 said:


> Jeff;
> 
> Yes I have, but the codes on the caps don't look anything like the numbers shown on the site, they don't even look like EIA codes. They're Canadian Mallorys.
> 
> ...


Does it look like it's been recapped?


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## Wild Bill (May 3, 2006)

louislouis_99 said:


> Jeff;
> 
> Yes I have, but the codes on the caps don't look anything like the numbers shown on the site, they don't even look like EIA codes. They're Canadian Mallorys.
> 
> ...


Canadian Mallory caps makes sense. After all, the amp was built in Toronto.

Codes can be confusing. You might pop over to the "Fender Amp Field Guide" site and read up on dating by parts codes. The info applies to any amp, not just Fenders.

If the cap codes don't make sense to you try taking the panel nut off of one of the volume or tone pots and look for a code. You don't have to unsolder anything, the wires will likely be long enough you can pull the pot up and see the code stamped along the "edge". As with other parts, the first 2 or 3 digits mean the manufacturer, then a hyphen and then 4 digits that indicate the date the part was made.
"-6733" would mean 1967, 33rd week. The part wouldn't have sat long on a shelf before it was wired in by Trayor. Usually it was installed within a few weeks. NOBODY buys for production and lets inventory sit for months on the shelf. It's too expensive to tie your money up like that. You have to pay for the parts within 30 days and you don't get any money back until you ship a run of amps out the door. So the date on the pot will likely get you within a month or two.


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

*Ys-1*

Thanks!

Its had at least one transformer replaced because the person who did it penciled it in on the inside of the chassis. It doesn't say which. The trannies are beautiful.

This is the first Traynor I've ever dug into so I'm sort of flying blind here. Everything on the eyelet board looks original. The cans are in nice shape, but so is everything else.

I'll open it up again this weekend and check the pots. I'll also take a closer look at the caps. Someone either took really good care of it or didn't play it a whole lot. The tar/nicotine film on it wasn't real heavy.

I dig this amp.


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## Wild Bill (May 3, 2006)

*"I like my bacon crisp and fryin' in the pan..."*



louislouis_99 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Its had at least one transformer replaced because the person who did it penciled it in on the inside of the chassis. It doesn't say which. The trannies are beautiful.
> 
> ...


Do NOT under any circumstances clean off that nicotine film if you intend to play any blues!

If you're a Barry Manilow fan then go right ahead and make it clean and pretty...


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## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

Bill is completely correct, the nicotine, dirt and spilt drinks is what holds the mojo in the amps.


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

Wild Bill said:


> Do NOT under any circumstances clean off that nicotine film if you intend to play any blues!
> 
> If you're a Barry Manilow fan then go right ahead and make it clean and pretty...


Whoa, too late. I did save the rag, though, in case the next guy wants to restore it.


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## Scottone (Feb 10, 2006)

If it has the choke in the power supply, it was probably from the '66-'68 era. There is usually a schematic glued to the metal plate that covers the bottom of the chassis...I guess it is missing on this one.

Those are nice amps..I've owned 2 or 3 over the years myself.


Scott


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

Scottone said:


> If it has the choke in the power supply, it was probably from the '66-'68 era. There is usually a schematic glued to the metal plate that covers the bottom of the chassis...I guess it is missing on this one.
> 
> Those are nice amps..I've owned 2 or 3 over the years myself.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately there is no schematic, but I did discover that the reverb tank was replaced in '71 by a fellow named Jeff Meade. He wrote it on the inside of the metal plate. I'll check the pots tonight.

I love the way it sounds. It makes a nice compliment to the Twin I have. It hums a little and there's a 60 cycle buzz coming from the vicinity of the cap cans and power transformer. I would imagine it needs new caps. 

Louis


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## Scottone (Feb 10, 2006)

louislouis_99 said:


> I love the way it sounds. It makes a nice compliment to the Twin I have. It hums a little and there's a 60 cycle buzz coming from the vicinity of the cap cans and power transformer. I would imagine it needs new caps.
> 
> Louis


I've found that the power transformers in the old Traynors can be a bit buzzy from a mechanical perspective...that's probably what you are hearing. You can try tightening the mounting bolts as that sometimes helps.

If the caps are original, there would probably be a benefit in replacing them.

Good luck with it..

Scott


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Dating a Traynor YSR-1,... What happen? Give up on women??:wink:


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

Robert1950 said:


> Dating a Traynor YSR-1,... What happen? Give up on women??:wink:


She's a fine woman. She cooks, gets hot, looks pertty, has nice knobs and big cans, offers lots of inputs, is nicely dressed and never complains about holding my beer. What more could you ask for?


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

Scottone said:


> I've found that the power transformers in the old Traynors can be a bit buzzy from a mechanical perspective...that's probably what you are hearing. You can try tightening the mounting bolts as that sometimes helps.
> 
> If the caps are original, there would probably be a benefit in replacing them.
> 
> ...


Which brings up a dilemma: Those twist-type multi-section cans cost a bunch more than the more readily available clamp-type. Problem is I'd have to drill some holes in the chassis for the clamps. Its seems like the right upgrade, though. Like drilling a hole for the ground wire of the three-pronged plug. Yet for some reason it bothers me.

I'm I being flakey here?

Louis


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## Scottone (Feb 10, 2006)

louislouis_99 said:


> Which brings up a dilemma: Those twist-type multi-section cans cost a bunch more than the more readily available clamp-type. Problem is I'd have to drill some holes in the chassis for the clamps. Its seems like the right upgrade, though. Like drilling a hole for the ground wire of the three-pronged plug. Yet for some reason it bothers me.
> 
> I'm I being flakey here?
> 
> Louis


Definitely go for the clamp type. I used to desolder the old cans with a big soldering iron, but a lot of guys just cut of the tabs with a dremel tool.

You don't need to drill a hole for the ground wire...just attach a lug and attach it to the chassis via one of the power transformer bolts


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## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

What I do with all the old amps I redo for guys (and my own), I leave the cans in the chassis, disconnect them, and put axial style cans inside the chassis. There is lots of room inside these old amps, and from the outside they still look original.


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

*Ysr-1*



Scottone said:


> Definitely go for the clamp type. I used to desolder the old cans with a big soldering iron, but a lot of guys just cut of the tabs with a dremel tool.
> 
> You don't need to drill a hole for the ground wire...just attach a lug and attach it to the chassis via one of the power transformer bolts


The numbers on the pots are either:

BD6825 or BD6837

Looks suspiciously like sometime during '68. 

So drilling holes to install cap can clamps isn't frowned upon? I would think Peter Traynor would have used the most intelligent technology anyway.

I'm going trace a few wires before I get started, especially two that run under the eyelet board. I found a schematic, but it must be for a later model because it doesn't show the choke. I wonder how close the rest of it is.

BTW I hacked-in my ground wire by just tying it to a tranny screw. I had planned on drilling it later, though. Maybe I'll just leave it. I didn't have a solder tag so I fashioned one by flattening a piece of #6 copper wire. I even goobered some solder on it. I think it works. At least it did for discharging the caps.

Thanks for your help. I'm sure you'll hear from me again.

Louis


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

*Cans on a YSR-1*



Ripper said:


> What I do with all the old amps I redo for guys (and my own), I leave the cans in the chassis, disconnect them, and put axial style cans inside the chassis. There is lots of room inside these old amps, and from the outside they still look original.


Its funny because that crossed my mind, but I thought, nah, that's crazy. But you're right, there's tons of room in there and that's kind of an elegant solution when you think about. Looks OEM on the outside.

I've also read about cutting the cans open, sticking in a couple of caps and gluing them back together. I find that intriguing as well.

The only thing is that I don't want to hack this thing up too much. Just a little. A screw hole here or there, maybe.


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## Scottone (Feb 10, 2006)

you can usually attach a couple of terminal strips using existing bolts, so you don't need to drill any extra holes. There are also stick-on mounting straps which work pretty well...in fact the Allen Amp kits use these.


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## Wild Bill (May 3, 2006)

*The answer is simpler...*

The only reason we use clamp style caps is because they're cheaper and easier to get!

The tab style are commonly called "FP" style, after one of the major brands. They don't work any better or worse. They did save some labour in mass production equipment. When you're building in volume you could have the chassis punched to take the tabs and someone on the assembly line would just give them a quick twist with a pair of pliers.

For us poor simple folk building one amp at a time we could never punch a chassis to accept the tabs with the tools we usually have available. Everyone has a drill however so mounting with a clamp is more practical.

You can still source some FP style cans but not always with the exact values inside you might be looking for - but likely close enough! With filters as long as the voltage rating is the same or higher you can go a bit bigger on the microfarads with no problems.

FPs are a lot more expensive for the same caps. A JJ brand clamp style might be $15 or less while the FP will likely be over $25.

http://www.thetubestore.com has some FPs and so do most other distis that cater to tubeheads like us...


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## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

I've never gone the cutting can route, but I have gently removed the cardboard covers off of old caps in fender amps and fitted them to the new caps to give the old look. I have never had problem fitting the new caps in most amps into space on the chassis. Some of the slanted Garnet chassis can be tight, but it can be done. I don't even bother trying to find the other styles of caps anymore. The axial ones are cheaper too.


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

*Caps for a YSR-1*

Thanks for all the good ideas. Stick on straps, huh? I'll have to check that out. I'm either going to go with a 50/50 strap-on can or stuff some regular caps in there.

Thing is, with this version it has 80mf as the resevoir, a 40 to the screens and everything else from another 40 so I could do it with 3 caps. Stuff them inside, leave the old cans intact.

Even though it works I'd like to replace the reverb transformer. Its not original and mounting holes don't match up. All of the other trannies are beautiful and this is one is sort of dumpy. Seems silly, I know.

thanks;

Louis


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## louislouis_99 (Aug 17, 2006)

Scottone said:


> you can usually attach a couple of terminal strips using existing bolts, so you don't need to drill any extra holes. There are also stick-on mounting straps which work pretty well...in fact the Allen Amp kits use these.


I just remembered that I glued a terminal strip into my Twin and it hasn't fallen apart yet. I could attach something to the bottom lug of a strip that would give me more glue area and stick that thing in. Wow! That's the answer! Stick in a few axial caps and git down.


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