# Micro Sol Alternative?



## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Gonna be laying down a few decals soon, which I've done before without too much issue, but I've been looking at the Micro Sol solution which is supposed to soften (almost melt) the edges into the finish. I've seen a lot of headstocks with waterslide decals and it's obvious decals were used. 

Does anyone here use the Micro Sol? or have a homebrew version?

Been researching a bit, and seen a few but, many were to buy a special brand of model paint thinner and add alcohol, and when you price the thinner mentioned it's as much as just buying Micro Sol. A homebrew solutiuon that neither saves money nor time. 

I imagine it's some form of weak thinner? or maybe has acetone? You can thin acetone with water, maybe that works?

Anyone know?


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

First time I ear about this product.



https://www.amazon.ca/Solution-fixation-Micro-Sol-28/dp/B0006O9K5Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=66704531975&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbdXNjnPIoq74Ldo7SQfDxSRjN1uBfGG500bttogHUfgkwNbWuakefBoCUj0QAvD_BwE&hvadid=338593549574&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000615&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10410017937489891115&hvtargid=kwd-295124000136&hydadcr=2849_11167831&keywords=micro+sol&qid=1634805219&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AQK3QKCHO0FY9&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMko2QTdWTVYzRlNHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzAzMjYxNzg3WDIzVlVTMzJPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMzk1NjgxUllRVlhBU0pRVUxHJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Yeah, they have a blue bottle for putting decals on, which I think is basically distilled water and a few drops of soap... Most people say don't bother. 

Red bottle you brush on... After 2 or 3 applications the clear part of waterslide decals basically blends right into the paint and virtually disappears. 

Model makers use it for decals on stuff like tanks, planes, etc... 

From what I've read, some people say it smells faintly of acetone... So probably 80% water, 20% acetone or something. 

I've never used it, about $20 a bottle. I have lots of thinners, alcohols and solvents... Rather make something than buy it. 

Depending on the response here over the next few days, I might just do some test strips on a piece of scrap painted with the car paint I'm using.


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

Ask to a Hobbyist forum, they may have more experience. 









How to protect and save decals 6


Hello, I am new to this forum. I want to repaint an old Massey Ferguson 275 ERTL tractor that I just bought. Photo attached. My problem is the fear of damaging the decal. How do I protect it when applying the spray paint? Do you have any solutions for me? What I thought of; Won't painter's...




www.hobbytalk.com


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I do the odd waterslide and I was advised to use the Microsol products. I bought both the blue and the red solutions.

I've only done a few, so I'm still learning the technique, and frankly even with the solution, it's mostly about technique. I'll be doing another in a week or two.

The stuff works well, but I'm not experienced enough with it to make any judgements. The funny (weird?) thing is, the two bottles came from different Amazon sellers. I think it was the red that came from Belgium and took a few months to arrive.

I think it was @knight_yyz who recommended it so he may have some pointers for you.


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

I understand , to do a good job you need to do some. Only one is not enough


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

Has anyone tried making decals with a 3d printer?


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

Google ; how to make decal with printer.

You"ll see many answers:









How To Make Decals With Inkjet Printer? Easy Guide


Do you want to apply a particular design to your walls, floors, windows, or vehicles? Are you a DIY enthusiast and want to decorate something with customized




www.printtopeer.com







https://www.ehow.com/how_6886053_make-decals-inkjet-printers.html


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Latole said:


> I understand , to do a good job you need to do some. Only one is not enough


I agree, experience helps. The larger decals can seem overwhelming at first, if you applied decals to models, it's a similar technique, although they are smaller and usually applied to a curved surface. Work from the middle out to release any trapped air...cleanliness is priority.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Microscale Decals


Microscale - World famous Scale Model Decals and Solutions




www.microscale.com


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I find the whole process requires a very delicate touch. The very qualities that make for a smooth result make the decals very fragile and easily damaged. You have to be prepared and have everything at hand and be very careful. I've wrecked a few trying to get a good one.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I've done a bit of research in the microsol. We probably only need the blue since we are using flat surfaces. I think the red is more for model airplane etc when you are putting a flat decal on a curved surface. The red causes a tiny bit of shrinkage which helps it stick to uneven surfaces. I'm not an expert or anything. I just found the decal does look better if you use at least the blue. I'm pretty sure there are alternatives out there. Just google decal application solution and see what comes up


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Guitar101 said:


> Has anyone tried making decals with a 3d printer?


Yes like a week ago!

I made a thin reproduction of a KAY emblem for a KAY SG I have here where the decal fell off long ago. Re-created the logo from a photo, and printed it with the circle and the lettering raised. I used a few drops of UV Resin and a toothpick to cover the low area, let it level itself smooth then hit it with UV to cure, that way there were no print filament lines. Sprayed it all with black. Flipped it over and sanded the high areas smooth/level with 300-grit paper, then I used a Molotov Liquid Chrome marker on the flat high areas. Looked really good... then I sprayed it with a thin layer of Duplicolour glossy clear, and it ruined it. Came out with a milky haze to it. Checked the reviews at Canadian Tire, and apparently happened to a few people... old stock? bad batch? in any case, I have to re-print it tonight and start over.

Looks thick but only 2mm thick when printed. LOTS of KAY emblems online, they seemed to change often but I went for the small simple one. 





  








Kay K-20 - Headstock Badge v2.png




__
THRobinson


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Oct 21, 2021


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Latole said:


> Google ; how to make decal with printer.
> 
> You"ll see many answers:
> 
> ...


Assuming you were responding to @Guitar101 , he was asking about using 3D Printers for logos, not how to make a decal.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

knight_yyz said:


> Just google decal application solution and see what comes up


As mentioned in the OP, I have... the few that I found usually want you to buy a brand name model paint solvent and dilute that, but again, buying that is as much money as just buying the Micro Sol, and without knowing what the model paint solvent is made of, it sets you back to square one.

Micro Set, however... I can find stuff about that because again, it seems like it's nothing more that distilled water and dawn dish soap. 

I'll print my stuff out and use the scraps as test strips. I think likely the key ingredient is acetone, and I've seen on a few nail polish sites that they dilute acetone, not sure if for removing polish or for putting on decals because I guess that's also a thing.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

I've only done a couple, but I didn't find it difficult using the same routine as when I did models as a kid.
Warm water, let the decal soak until the decal starts to slide off of the backing, then slide onto the surface.

I've done these projects. The mirrored fender on the lefty was with using diluted carpenters glue.


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

THRobinson said:


> Assuming you were responding to @Guitar101 , he was asking about using 3D Printers for logos, not how to make a decal.


You are right !


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

It's amazing what you can find on Google if you try 









alternative to micro-sol/set


hello all, I need some help with finding a alternative to the micro-sol/set for my decals. any help and/or tips would be great. DEATH TO THE EMPIRE




www.bolterandchainsword.com


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

Google have answer for everything you need.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

knight_yyz said:


> It's amazing what you can find on Google if you try
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not a lot in that link at all, a few alternative products which isn't what I was asking for, and a few mentions of watered down vinegar, which on other forums I've read, isn't nearly as good of an alternative.

I did find that when people are saying vinegar, they're almost right. Acetic Acid Glacial, a strong form of vinegar is what they mean to say, but, looks like something you need to order from a chemical supplier or something so not something I can make with what I already have it seems.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Latole said:


> Google have answer for everything you need.


Then what's the point of having a forum if any question or discussion's response is to just Google it instead?


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I know this is not the intent of the OP (sorry, no offence intended), but coincidentally, I'm taking a stab at a waterslide logo on a Mighty Mite neck today.

I had it at a machine shop to get the nut slot milled out for an LSR roller nut and just got it back this morning.

So, having consulted with members in the forum, I just sanded it smooth and applied a tack coat of nitro. I'll let that dry and apply a wet coat.

The waterslide is transparent background. You have to clear coat that with it's own special chemical.

Then I'll use the Micro Sol chemicals and apply the decal (deh Kul), and then apply a few coats of nitro over that. I'm still considering the orientation of the decal.

Wish me luck.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)




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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Nice. I zoomed in on it and can't find the edge.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

With nitro, I suspect the solvents in the nitro "melt" the decal into the lacquer.

I'm using a urethane based paint, but 2K clear... no idea what the 2K is made of.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Almost done. Just need to wet sand and buff.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Not to criticize, but as a critique, she should get a little more artsy with her logo to make it stand out.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Well... did a quick test on a scrap bit of the decal paper I use on a painted scrap of wood. I used the Duplicolor grease/wax remover and a q-tip. It was close by and basically acetone. Made quick work of the finish, didn't do anything to the waterslide decal at all. Very surprised. Gave 3 coats and barely touched it. Removed the clear, the finish, and the laser copier toner, but didn't melt that decal at all.

Maybe those model builders have different decal paper. It's manufactured not self made, for the models they build. Maybe inkjet decal paper is thinner than laser?

Anyways... it's on, I cleared over it... it's... mostly hidden. 3 feet away it's great, up close with good light, still decent not great.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

laristotle said:


> Not to criticize, but as a critique, she should get a little more artsy with her logo to make it stand out.


I made the logo. It could be improved for sure, but it's not really a high priority. She does sign the backs of the headstocks and I clear coat over those.


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