# Poly Verses Nitro



## wayne086 (Jan 22, 2010)

I am restoring a 73 Telecaster,the neck was varnished,not badly.But needed a good sanding and polishing,frets were changed.Thank goodness they didn't disturb the front headstock.Replaced the all the parts,that were replaced in the 80's with new reissue parts,bridge,tuners,pickguard and pots and neck pickup,wiring was stereo wire, 30 gauge,I replaced them with 22 gauge plastic.All that were original was the body,neck,3 way switch,control plate and knobs and neck plate,and the bridge pickup.(No routes in the body)The previous owner stripped the 3 coats of paint to bare wood and lightly varnished the body,the colours were oylmpic white,baby pink,and black.So I want to paint the body,there is a joint at the lower horn,not a very pleasing look when it's natural.I am going to paint it oylmpic white,back to the original colour.Heres the question, should I use poly like it was originally or go nitro.Poly I can shoot through my Airbrush or send it out to get it Nitro.


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## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

can you get enough spray with an air brush? if you can shoot poly id say you can shoot nitro , i think nitro flows allot better than poly. no sticky overspray and dries very fast .but if you go with nitro make sure the paint you use is compatible .something like duplicolor i heard will work but i have not used it myself


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

What do you want? Poly wasn't used on a 73 originally. Poly of course is tougher. But horrible to remove in the future. You aren't going to do anything more than shade a tone with an airbrush.... forget that I idea. If your going to send it out I suspect you can still have the choice of either finish


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## bcmatt (Aug 25, 2007)

I'm under the impression that nitro is always better because it allows the wood to vibrate easier and the guitar will sound much more natural and resonant. Because Poly/Nitro is usually the one hardest aspect to change between cheap guitars and high-quality guitars, I can't see why anyone would choose poly at all if they actually had the choice.

Even great guitars that are cheaper, that is the one thing that pains me most and keeps me from purchasing them- knowing that they have a poly finish, so they aren't given a fighting chance against the overpriced guitars.

But, I'm no expert and maybe this is more just my hang-up.


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

I don't think a 73 tele or strat was done in Nitro..i think they stopped before that. In any case, Nitro is a lot better. buit tougher to do and get. depending on color usually. If you're looking to get it refinished in Nitro...send me a PM..


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## Alain Moisan (Jan 16, 2010)

Although I'm more into acoustics than electrics, I feel I have to chim in on this one.

I finish all my guitars using polyurethane and I don't feel it does not allow the wood to vibrate at all. I actually made one guitar with nitro to compare and trust me, there were no significant difference.

The difference between high-end and low-end guitars, regarding finish, has a lot more to do with its proper application/sanding/polishing than the nature of the finish itself. Low-end guitars will have a botched finished with usually too much of it (makes it easier to level to make it look 'mirror flat'). 

Many problems with nitro. For once, nitro fumes ara a killer and many developped intolerances to it because of that. Also, the fire hazards with nitro overspray are a pain to deal with (not any fan will do, you need to isolate the motor from the fumes and overspray). Also, if you plan on brushing nitro instead of spraying it, forget about it. The thing will start to dry as soon as you lay it down. I'm talking a second or two! This means you can't brush over the nitro you just put on a second ago. Believe me, it's a real pain! Lastly, you need to wait weeks after the last coat of nitro is applied before you can sand and buff otherwise the wood grain will reappear withing weeks. Nitro keeps on curing for a loooong time...

Poly(urethane) on the other hand spreads like a breeze with a foam brush and fumes are a lot less an issue than with nitro. You can sand and buff just 24 hours after the last coat is applied. The main problems with poly is that it will not cure over most rosewoods and thus needs a sealer in those case (simple shellac will do). Also, it is known to yellow out a little faster than nitro (within months, while nitro is over years). There is also some confusion between waterbase and oil base polyurethane. Waterbase is not appreciated too much because it's way too soft and will leave a bluieish aspect in the finish.

A lot of high-end manufacturers and more and more luthiers these days are switching from nitro to polyester. Although it needs industrial spraying facilities (too toxic!), catalysed polyester cures faster than nitro, within about 15 minutes if you have a UV oven (such as Taylor guitars have). Nitro gives a good result, but it is popular mostly because that's what was available at the time all the big names made their mark. I believe Martin don't even use it anymore...

All this to say, polyurethane will do just as good as a job than nitro plus it will be a lot more pleasant to work with, specially for a hobby builder/repairman. 

Plus (and mainly I guess), as long as the finish is thin, it won't affect the sound.

My 2 cents...


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

The "poly" used on electrics is POLYESTER. Not polyurethane. Polyester, is the thick, plastic looking finish that is fairly brittle and shatters when you hit the corner of your guitar.

Polyester is commonly called "fibreglass resin". You can usually recognise the stuff by sanding it or taking a scrape off of it, and it will smell "sweet".

I dont think Fender ever used polyurethane... 

AJC


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

al3d said:


> I don't think a 73 tele or strat was done in Nitro..i think they stopped before that. In any case, Nitro is a lot better. buit tougher to do and get. depending on color usually. If you're looking to get it refinished in Nitro...send me a PM..


you are probably correct.... posted before the caffine level was up. I don't agree that nitro is tougher..that' is one of the reasons they changed from Nitro. 

I don't like the feel of poly


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## Alain Moisan (Jan 16, 2010)

ajcoholic said:


> The "poly" used on electrics is POLYESTER. Not polyurethane. Polyester, is the thick, plastic looking finish that is fairly brittle and shatters when you hit the corner of your guitar.
> 
> Polyester is commonly called "fibreglass resin". You can usually recognise the stuff by sanding it or taking a scrape off of it, and it will smell "sweet".
> 
> ...


I guess we should never use the word 'poly' again, but add the 'ester' or 'urethane' after it so we all know what we are talking about!

That said, I'm pretty sure I read about Strats having their necks finished with polyurethane (satin). Again, I'm not an electric guy...


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

yeah, fender switched to what we call a poly finish on bodies in 68-
as others have said tho, its not that nitro lets the wood breathe and vibrate more freely- its just that the old fender style of spraying left a very thin layer- while later methods, using poly left a big thick coating. this is because in the nitro days, theyd spray a bunch of thin coats to get it right- with poly, you hit it with two thick coats, cure it and buff it out- faster, simpler, cheaper.
but also, most mass manufacturers dont take the time to do a finish in the way alain points out above
if it was my guitar, id use an acrylic auto paint, duplicolor, for colour coat if any- from a rattle can-
then id get a small quantity of clear nitro, thin it, and spray it with the airbrush- or better yet, if you can find a clear nitro in a rattle can, just do that.
you can spray outside in the winter, you just need to have somewhere inside to hang it to dry.
nitro is easy, and it feels better to me. if you prep the surface correctly, put enough clear on to avoid sand throughs, and take the time to level and buff it out, you can get as good as or better than original factory finish. lots of guys do- nitro is dangerous as alain points out- so you want to wear a mask, spray outside- hang it to cure in a well ventilated room away from kids or pets or flames etc-
and be patient enough to give it a month or so to harden, youll get great results.
last guitar i did in nitro in my hotel room- hung it to spray in the parking lot, brought it in at night and hung it in the bathroom. no probs.


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## Jean GODBOUT (Oct 31, 2009)

Wayne, I agree with Alain MOISAN, polyester make good finish, but I still prefer Nitro. You can go at Canadian Tire and buy any color paint made for car, these paint are fully compatible with nitro finish and the choice of colors is almost unlimited. Also you can buy nitro clear in spray can, brand Mohawk available at Richelieu Hardware store for about $6.75 a can, two or tree can is enough to finish a body, no need to wash your spay gun. Yes it does smell bad, I alway spay outside, but avoid humid days. I even successly clear coated wooden parts in winter at bellow zero. Nitro is easy to touch up if needed. 

Cheers, Jean GODBOUT
Rosewood Telecaster - DIY


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Yep...Jean's right. i've painted about 12 guitars this year with only nitro..i use the clear at richelieu..it's actually 8.95$ a can..LOL..but it's a greath product, and if you mess something up..unlike other finish..nitro Melts into the other coats...so REALY easy to fix. Like jean i mostly shoot outside myself in the summer..and in my dad's eated garage in the winter. i just finished a bass and i've been shooting outside all week..


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## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

I'd use nitro just for the old fashioned style. I think most people on principle prefer nitro for whatever their reasons may be. If you ever wanted to sell it, a good nitro finish could go over better than poly. I must admit, I've come to enjoy the smell of nitro on warm sunny days, it's quite nice.. or maybe that's the the fumes talking 

I've sprayed nitro in temperature conditions lower than the can recommends. If you take it inside to dry between coats, you shouldn't have any problems with it. Just prop it up in an empty room so you can avoid the smell.


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## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

when you start spraying nitro its hard to go back to poly .omg just the drying time alone nitro in 20 minutes & poly around 3 hours to touch as well as sticky overspray on everything .but for necks poly gives you a non sticky feel months faster than nitro i think anyway


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## wayne086 (Jan 22, 2010)

Thanks guys,I have used Duplicolour on model cars,so I know it works well with airbrushes when thinned,and will pick up a few cans of Nitro.


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