# Broken Strymon Big Sky Repair



## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

Hey everyone. After some advice from greco, it seemed like a good idea to start a thread here on a pot replacement I'm potentially going to attempt haha. I stupidly broke the 'Type" pot shaft off of my Big Sky. I took it apart (which was far from an enjoyable task getting the PCB's off the standoffs) and once I knew it was possible to get access to the pot myself, I ordered the 'encoder' pot from Strymon.
I have basically zero PCB soldering experience as of now. I do have a decent amount of experience soldering cables and wiring harnesses and such. There's a large chance that if I can get in contact with a local computer repair guy, I will probably get him to do it if possible. But if I feel like I could, maybe I'll try it myself.
I'll attach a couple of pictures of the pot to replace. If you think I shouldn't risk attempting this myself, feel free to let me know. Or if you have any advice, I'm definitely all ears haha. And if you know of any very good, but not incredibly long, youtube videos that would be worth my while watching that would be awesome too.
I do have a solder sucker on the way. I'm curious if it might be better to try to cut(?) as much of the remaining pot off so I will have an easier time getting the little contacts out.

Thanks!


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## tonewoody (Mar 29, 2017)

Get a pro to do it.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

They're so close together that it's going to be very hard to heat the joints and be able to pull up on the pot enough to get it clear. Doing the solder sucker thing is possible, but you'll want a hot small tip and very minimal contact so you don't burn/melt the board. In and out in and out (that's what she said) taking bits of solder off and trimming the sucker each time will be a long slow process.

I'm an experienced pedal builder and would be very intimidated by that job. Putting the new one in, provided you have sucked all the solder off and have clear holes for the feet of the new pot, would be easy peasy. It's the removal that's going to suck, pun intended.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

keto said:


> They're so close together that it's going to be very hard to heat the joints and be able to pull up on the pot enough to get it clear. Doing the solder sucker thing is possible, but you'll want a hot small tip and very minimal contact so you don't burn/melt the board. In and out in and out (that's what she said) taking bits of solder off and trimming the sucker each time will be a long slow process.
> 
> I'm an experienced pedal builder and would be very intimidated by that job. Putting the new one in, provided you have sucked all the solder off and have clear holes for the feet of the new pot, would be easy peasy. It's the removal that's going to suck, pun intended.


Awesome, thanks very much. How long would you say you're able to keep the tip on it without causing an issue generally? (that's what she said?) Also, my soldering iron has a higher watt and lower watt setting, which would be better for that?


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

juiceboxjosh said:


> Awesome, thanks very much. How long would you say you're able to keep the tip on it without causing an issue generally? (that's what she said?) Also, my soldering iron has a higher watt and lower watt setting, which would be better for that?


Higher watt. Touch for a count of ONE and bail out. Just enough so you feel the solder melt, if you hold the iron there longer you'll burn and possibly melt the board.

EDIT 'melt the board' includes destroying the traces that are built into it, then you're having to rebuild the circuit in that area. Like I said, a pretty intimidating job for a non-pro.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

I wouldn't use a solder sucker, I much prefer desoldering braid. That should be pretty straightforward to swap out.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

keto said:


> Higher watt. Touch for a count of ONE and bail out. Just enough so you feel the solder melt, if you hold the iron there longer you'll burn and possibly melt the board.
> 
> EDIT 'melt the board' includes destroying the traces that are built into it, then you're having to rebuild the circuit in that area. Like I said, a pretty intimidating job for a non-pro.


Sounds good. Do you think the solder sucker is the way to go?


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

gtrguy said:


> I wouldn't use a solder sucker, I much prefer desoldering braid. That should be pretty straightforward to swap out.



Yes, I don't know why but that's what I was picturing in my head, and you can tell when I said 'trimming the sucker each time'. I have 0 experience with a solder sucker. Sorry for any misdirection.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

keto said:


> Yes, I don't know why but that's what I was picturing in my head, and you can tell when I said 'trimming the sucker each time'. I have 0 experience with a solder sucker. Sorry for any misdirection.


Didn't see your post before posting.. all good!


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Do NOT use a solder sucker. Use solder wick instead, assuming you can obtain under the current circumstances.
Solder wick is bare braided copper. It is called "wick" because it effectively sucks away or absorbs flowing solder by a capillary-like action. It removes more solder than a solder-sucker does and leaves a cleaner solder pad and component lead.
I like to "supercharge" mine by dabbing a bit of liquid flux on the copper braid. As bare copper, it tends to develop a tarnish/oxidation if not stored in a flawless oxygen-free manner by oneself or the retailer/distributor. The flux makes it far more receptive to reflowed solder. As it absorbs/wicks away the solder, you'll need to trim the soldered-stiffened end off to provide a clean end.
I am not dissing solder-suckers. They have their uses. But desoldering small parts on crowded boards is not one of them. Generally, their tips - even when brand spanking new - are not small enough to apply suction to a small specific place. And heating and reheating a joint in an expensive pedal like that risks throwing away an investment of several hundred dollars. 
Here's a decent demo of how to use solder wick.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

mhammer said:


> Do NOT use a solder sucker. Use solder wick instead, assuming you can obtain under the current circumstances.
> Solder wick is bare braided copper. It is called "wick" because it effectively sucks away or absorbs flowing solder by a capillary-like action. It removes more solder than a solder-sucker does and leaves a cleaner solder pad and component lead.
> I like to "supercharge" mine by dabbing a bit of liquid flux on the copper braid. As bare copper, it tends to develop a tarnish/oxidation if not stored in a flawless oxygen-free manner by oneself or the retailer/distributor. The flux makes it far more receptive to reflowed solder. As it absorbs/wicks away the solder, you'll need to trim the soldered-stiffened end off to provide a clean end.
> I am not dissing solder-suckers. They have their uses. But desoldering small parts on crowded boards is not one of them. Generally, their tips - even when brand spanking new - are not small enough to apply suction to a small specific place. And heating and reheating a joint in an expensive pedal like that risks throwing away an investment of several hundred dollars.
> Here's a decent demo of how to use solder wick.


Oh awesome, thanks so much. I do have the braid already, though I don’t have any liquid flux yet. Do I let it cool down for a little bit in between each go at it?


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

This might be a dumb idea, but would it work if I could cut the top of the pot off to just head it up and slide the remaining piece out and then use the braid after? Or is that too risky?


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

juiceboxjosh said:


> This might be a dumb idea, but would it work if I could cut the top of the pot off to just head it up and slide the remaining piece out and then use the braid after? Or is that too risky?


Why? Just use the braid or a solder sucker. It will come off quickly.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

juiceboxjosh said:


> This might be a dumb idea, but would it work if I could cut the top of the pot off to just head it up and slide the remaining piece out and then use the braid after? Or is that too risky?


If there is room, that would make the whole job a lot easier. Cut as close to the pot body as possible//leaving lots of leg to grab with your pliers when you do eventually pull them.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

keto said:


> Higher watt. Touch for a count of ONE and bail out. Just enough so you feel the solder melt, if you hold the iron there longer you'll burn and possibly melt the board.
> 
> EDIT 'melt the board' includes destroying the traces that are built into it, then you're having to rebuild the circuit in that area. Like I said, a pretty intimidating job for a non-pro.


This would scare me enough not to proceed with doing it myself.



keto said:


> If there is room, that would make the whole job a lot easier. Cut as close to the pot body as possible//leaving lots of leg to grab with your pliers when you do eventually pull them.


However, this might hold promise if there is room to cut the pot off at the body.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

juiceboxjosh said:


> This might be a dumb idea, but would it work if I could cut the top of the pot off to just head it up and slide the remaining piece out and then use the braid after? Or is that too risky?


Fair question, and if the part you need to replace is headed to the waste bin, a reasonable strategy. What we don't know, and can't advise on, is how easy it is for you to get in there with the tools you have, snip the base of the rotary encoder, without damaging the surrounding LEDs, and anything that might be holding them up or spacing them.
As well, sometimes it is easier to remove all the little bits that shouldn't be left behind if they are attached to bigger bits. I think the first task is to see what lies under those solder blobs where the tabs of the encoder are likely bent over. Clean that up with solder-wick and scope out what needs doing.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

Awesome, thanks everyone. 


mhammer said:


> Fair question, and if the part you need to replace is headed to the waste bin, a reasonable strategy. What we don't know, and can't advise on, is how easy it is for you to get in there with the tools you have, snip the base of the rotary encoder, without damaging the surrounding LEDs, and anything that might be holding them up or spacing them.
> As well, sometimes it is easier to remove all the little bits that shouldn't be left behind if they are attached to bigger bits. I think the first task is to see what lies under those solder blobs where the tabs of the encoder are likely bent over. Clean that up with solder-wick and scope out what needs doing.


Will definitely try to remove the solder on the bottom to see. Would you recommend I get some liquid flux before attempting it with my braid? 

On another note, does anybody know of someone in Canada that would be able to do this for me if I end up chickening out?


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

juiceboxjosh said:


> On another note, does anybody know of someone in Canada that would be able to do this for me if I end up chickening out?


You're already talking to him. That's mhammer, that is if he willing to work on it. Or you can send it back to Strymon.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

Chito said:


> You're already talking to him. That's mhammer, that is if he willing to work on it. Or you can send it back to Strymon.


Oh very nice. Yeah I called Strymon, their repair shop is closed until further notice with the Covid. Luckily they still shipped the pot to me.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Sending it to me is more trouble for everyone than is justifiable, but thanks for the vote of confidence. This should be well within the OP's capabilities.

Do you need to get liquid flux? Nah. If one has to do a _lot_ of solder removal, it's a real helper. And if one is using a soldering iron with a big tip and way too much heat, flux will help you to get out of the way quickly. But I can't see it necessary for these few joints. Just make sure that the bit of wick you want to use is nice and shiny bright.

The nice thing is that the tabs holding the switch to the board (hidden under those solder blobs) provide an excellent starting point to practice your desoldering technique without risking damage to anything. Those tabs are purely mechanical/structural and not at all part of the electronics.

If you want, feel free to continue this offline and I'll walk you through it, step by step. You can post pics, and I'll guide you.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Very informative thread! 

Should be helpful to others contemplating similar desoldering of components on PCBs and learning about the complications, techniques, etc.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

mhammer said:


> Sending it to me is more trouble for everyone than is justifiable, but thanks for the vote of confidence. This should be well within the OP's capabilities.
> 
> Do you need to get liquid flux? Nah. If one has to do a _lot_ of solder removal, it's a real helper. And if one is using a soldering iron with a big tip and way too much heat, flux will help you to get out of the way quickly. But I can't see it necessary for these few joints. Just make sure that the bit of wick you want to use is nice and shiny bright.
> 
> ...


Awesome, thank you so much. I'll see how it goes. I actually have another pedal that's not working, maybe I'll practice removing the pot on that one before I attempt this one. I should have a week at the very least before the replacement one arrives.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

juiceboxjosh said:


> I actually have another pedal that's not working, maybe I'll practice removing the pot on that one before I attempt this one.


Excellent idea IMO


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Personally I’d avoid doing any cutting of the broken pot. The last thing you want is tiny bits of metal getting somewhere they shouldn’t be.

I suspect you’re going to find that desoldering using the braid is actually going to be much easier than you expect.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

gtrguy said:


> Personally I’d avoid doing any cutting of the broken pot. The last thing you want is tiny bits of metal getting somewhere they shouldn’t be.
> 
> I suspect you’re going to find that desoldering using the braid is actually going to be much easier than you expect.


That makes a lot of sense. I probably shouldn't risk anything that I don't have to haha


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

If it's double-sided board, for sure I'd cut the part out first and then remove the legs. You don't want to chance tearing any of the via's out, and it can unfortunately be all too easy.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

What would be the best thing to use to cut it out? Some sort of snips?


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

jb welder said:


> If it's double-sided board, for sure I'd cut the part out first and then remove the legs. You don't want to chance tearing any of the via's out, and it can unfortunately be all too easy.


If it was a different board, I'd probably agree with you. But the "top" part of the rotary encoder is surrounded by a circle of status indicator LEDs whose alignment with the holes on the chassis is risked if josh lacks a particular kind of snip, and has to push his way in there. Keep in mind this is not a pot but a rotary encoder.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

I fixed a Blue Sky with a messed up 'Mix' pot, very similar to what you have. Solder sucker worked fine and the whole repair took 20 minutes. It took longer to disassemble/assemble than to do the soldering. I personally wouldn't trim anything beforehand. My thinking with that would be putting extra tension on individual leads while they are welded in place to the PCB. That being said, a guy documented a similar fix on TGP and it looks like he cut them without much trouble. The soldering is only from one side of the board and the solder around the traces comes off super easy and clean. The two side mount pieces were a little extra work as they did not want to come off clean but you can be a bit rough with them as they don't connect to anything on the board. Strymon sent extra pots for some reason but I guess that is why they are nice folks, ordered two, sent four. Good luck.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

@juiceboxjosh Did you ever imagine that this thread would receive so much "attention" /activity!


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

@greco I would not have haha. I go on days off (hopefully not permanently) tomorrow so hopefully I'll get a chance to work on it in the next couple days. I'll be sure to update. Thanks very much everyone for all your input! Super helpful.


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## TimH (Feb 4, 2006)

juiceboxjosh said:


> Awesome, thanks everyone.
> 
> Will definitely try to remove the solder on the bottom to see. Would you recommend I get some liquid flux before attempting it with my braid?
> 
> On another note, does anybody know of someone in Canada that would be able to do this for me if I end up chickening out?


Hey Josh,

FYI Strymon has a flat rate for fixing broken pedals for just $100 USD. Of course there's shipping. I've done it twice and have had any hidden fees. Once they practically gave me a brand new chassis and a new knob. Pedal looked like new again. IMO, just send it in.


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

TimH said:


> Hey Josh,
> 
> FYI Strymon has a flat rate for fixing broken pedals for just $100 USD. Of course there's shipping. I've done it twice and have had any hidden fees. Once they practically gave me a brand new chassis and a new knob. Pedal looked like new again. IMO, just send it in.


Yeah I had thought about it but when I contacted them they said their repair shop is closed until covid is done basically. 
On one hand it is nerve racking potentially destroying a $650 pedal but I really struggle accepting paying $200 cad to have a $5 part replaced. Especially since it still works without it haha. Going to give it a shot myself. Worst case I’ll find someone to send it to if it isn’t going well


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## juiceboxjosh (May 25, 2016)

Probably going to refinish the enclosure while I’m at it...not a blue pedal fan haha


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

mhammer said:


> If it was a different board, I'd probably agree with you. But the "top" part of the rotary encoder is surrounded by a circle of status indicator LEDs whose alignment with the holes on the chassis is risked if josh lacks a particular kind of snip, and has to push his way in there.





vadsy said:


> Solder sucker worked fine and the whole repair took 20 minutes. It took longer to disassemble/assemble than to do the soldering. I personally wouldn't trim anything beforehand. My thinking with that would be putting extra tension on individual leads while they are welded in place to the PCB.


I'll defer to you guy's actual hands on with these units. 
I'm used to seeing things like this with lead-free solder and double-sided board with very flimsy traces. So protecting the board is critical as it is pretty much the whole enchilada.
Sounds like that is not the case here and he shouldn't have much problem with the de-soldering.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

jb welder said:


> I'll defer to you guy's actual hands on with these units.
> I'm used to seeing things like this with lead-free solder and double-sided board with very flimsy traces. So protecting the board is critical as it is pretty much the whole enchilada.
> Sounds like that is not the case here and he shouldn't have much problem with the de-soldering.


I know exactly what you're talking about with the traces but in my experience the Strymon and even Line 6 is built better than the typical Fender. Those traces lift with little heat and become problematic, these have stayed solid for me. My guess is the PCB is sealed off better but also the traces are thinner so they don't carry as much heat all over and unglue themselves. The solder also melts away super easy, doesn't take much to punch in and out with the tip and sucker.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

vadsy said:


> The solder also melts away super easy, doesn't take much to punch in and out with the tip and sucker.


I have a feeling it may not be lead-free solder then, which is very hard to melt & get to flow. For lead-free on double-sided, _Chip Quik_ is a good method. But fairly expensive for a one-off repair.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

jb welder said:


> I have a feeling it may not be lead-free solder then, ....


agreed. it has crossed my mind multiple deep breaths ago


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## tonewoody (Mar 29, 2017)

Still advocating for "get a pro to do it". It is way too easy to destroy delicate pcb traces etc.

but...

Re: clipping the encoder leads. I would clip at least the small ones before de-soldering, close to the board if the pins fit through the pcb holes. What is left of the small leads will pop right out with a quick heat and solder sucker.
That leaves you with the 2 bigger supports. Way easier to work 2 contact points loose than dick around with multiple ones at the same time. Personally, I find solder braid slow and generally requires several attempts per hole. The less time you heat the solder point the better IMO.


If you do decide to DIY, find some scrap pcb boards and practice your technique before you tackle the Big Sky.


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## tonewoody (Mar 29, 2017)

A simple alternative. 
Crazy glue the encoder's broken plastic shaft back on.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

tonewoody said:


> A simple alternative.
> Crazy glue the encoder's broken plastic shaft back on.


First drill very small holes and mate the pieces with a metal pin.


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