# Looking to buy an acoustic



## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

I'm a long time electric guitar player and have had cheap acoustics in the past but would like to get a decent one. I don't know alot about acoustic guitars, but would like something in the $500-$800 range. Any advice on brands/models or things to consider?


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## Starbuck (Jun 15, 2007)

Paul said:


> The best bang for buck in your price range is the Seagull line made by Canada's own Godin Guitars.


Whew! Thankfully you included the link this time! Now there won't be 10 more posts listing all the other division of Godin! :smilie_flagge17:


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## xuthal (May 15, 2007)

Go to a music store an play as many as you can and pick the one you like.Theres allot of differences in different brands,neck thickness,finish,projection and of course tone.Once you find a brand of guitar you like pick it up.If the guitar you like best is out of your price range they can order you another of the same brand,they usually have lower priced models.Or you can do the same with used guitars.You can get allot of guitar for your price range if you buy used.


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## lyric girl (Sep 4, 2008)

Corrupted said:


> I'm a long time electric guitar player and have had cheap acoustics in the past but would like to get a decent one. I don't know alot about acoustic guitars, but would like something in the $500-$800 range. Any advice on brands/models or things to consider?


Taylor 110/200 series. I much prefer the Taylor sound over the Godin products. Just my 6 cents.


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## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

Starbuck said:


> Whew! Thankfully you included the link this time! Now there won't be 10 more posts listing all the other division of Godin! :smilie_flagge17:


Any one of which would be a good choice.


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## MrsMime (Sep 25, 2008)

lyric girl said:


> Taylor 110/200 series. I much prefer the Taylor sound over the Godin products. Just my 6 cents.


I second that. Taylors are incredible guitars, very consistent with their tones, and absolutely beautiful. I have to agree with xuthal though, your best bet would be to go to a music store and play all the guitars in your price range and see for yourself.


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## lyric girl (Sep 4, 2008)

MrsMime said:


> I second that. Taylors are incredible guitars, very consistent with their tones, and absolutely beautiful. I have to agree with xuthal though, your best bet would be to go to a music store and play all the guitars in your price range and see for yourself.


Absolutely, you need to go and try everything in your price range and maybe even slightly above it, so you can get a feel for what you like.

When I went through this in February, I thought I was going to buy a Norman (one of the Godin products) and then I heard a Taylor. Then, I thought I was going to buy a Big Baby Taylor, and then I heard my 110 which is lovingly known as Pretty Persuasion because the look and the bigger tone from the Big Baby synched that purchase even though it was slightly more than I originally planned on spending.

My best advice is have fun.


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## Starbuck (Jun 15, 2007)

All the advice here is certainly great and you came to the right place. However I've been thinking about it after talking with someone at work here who wants to play guitar. He bought a guitar and took it out of the box but then put it away thinking, "I can't make my fingers do what I want" I think all of us who come here realize that it's a tremendous amount of work, not always fun, but once you get the hang of it, it's awesome and rewarding. I know plenty of people who've done the very same thing, underestimating how much patience and drive you need to have to learn (any) a musical instrument. Unless you know for sure that you love it, love it, love it, I would most certainly stick to a resonable price range and try them all out carefully. Find the one that speaks to you and by all means, don't discount a good used guitar. I hope you love it like we all love ours...


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## ronmac (Sep 22, 2006)

Good advice has been given. Play as many different guitars as you can, even some that are way above what you expect to spend, just so you know what is available.

For the upper end of your limit you should be able to find a good used 03 series Larrivee (all solid woods) ($700~$800). I have bought and sold several and have never been disappointed. Many Pros use these as stage guitars. You really have to spend a lot more to get something any nicer, IMHO.

If you do go used, and buy a respected brand, you won't lose much money if you decide to sell or trade later.

Enjoy the hunt!


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## NB_Terry (Feb 2, 2006)

Look at used guitars. 

You can buy a top of the line Simon & Patrick Showcase or Pro Series for $400 to $500 with electronics. 

A used Larrivee would run you $800 or so. 

Buy used, play for free.


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## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

I'd love to buy used, but where do you find a good used acoustic guitar? I can't try it out first if I buy it off ebay and there aren't many good used guitars around here.


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## exhaust_49 (Jan 4, 2007)

Anything from the Godin line will be a great guitar but I'm partial to Simon and Patrick guitars. Make sure you check them out.


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## lyric girl (Sep 4, 2008)

Corrupted said:


> I'd love to buy used, but where do you find a good used acoustic guitar? I can't try it out first if I buy it off ebay and there aren't many good used guitars around here.


Craigs List and shops frequently sell used.


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## Starbuck (Jun 15, 2007)

Corrupted said:


> I'd love to buy used, but where do you find a good used acoustic guitar? I can't try it out first if I buy it off ebay and there aren't many good used guitars around here.


Find a store with a really good selection and just try em on. Knowledge is key. Check out Taylor, Gibson, Godin, Larivee.. etc.. Learn about tone wood and different combinations for sound. Try em on again. Then if the spirit is willing look for a used one of what you decided floats your boat. OR like someone else said, start saving. Good luck.


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## rbbambino (Oct 10, 2007)

I will probably get flack, but I would never buy a Godin acoustic. They sound just about where there price range is.. fairly cheap... to me of course. Whatever sounds good and plays good for you is what really matters. Some have mentioned the Larrivee.. I would suggest you look into an L03R. The rosewood (the R) is a really nice option. However, that is subjective. Rosewood projects much better than Mahogany and if you are thinking laminates for any part of the guitar.... Don't... I realize there are nice sounding laminate guitars, but they will not mature. They will not grow with you and that is something that you should consider. There actually was an L03R on kijjii for around 800 recently. L03s have rather wide necks.. They are 1.75 inches at the nut, so that's sometimes that takes some getting use to.. You are coming from an electric, so that may take a little time, but you will adapt. If you want a slightly thinner neck, the D03s have a 1 and 11/16th nut width and are just as good, just a different shape (dread). 
Having trashed Godin and praised Larrivee... It all depends on you. Whatever you bond with will be the guitar for you.. My biggest caution to you is not to shop with your pocketbook or you will be in the same situation as you were before you started looking. You will just have another cheap acoustic!!


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## yahtzee (Oct 1, 2008)

exhaust_49 said:


> Anything from the Godin line will be a great guitar but I'm partial to Simon and Patrick guitars. Make sure you check them out.


i agree with checking out the simon and patricks. i've had one for a number of years now, and it still sounds great and was reasonably priced.


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## Grenvilleter (Dec 22, 2007)

"Rosewood projects much better than Mahogany and if you are thinking laminates for any part of the guitar.... Don't... I realize there are nice sounding laminate guitars, but they will not mature."

Please forgive me rbbambino for pointing this out but both these statments you made are not exactly "cast in stone".

I've had hogs that projected considerably more than rosewood. It really depends on the guitar itself.
Also, I've had older laminate guitars in for repair or string change that exhibited incredibly rich tonal qualities that I'm sure was not there when the guitar was new. A few Yamaha's come to mind specifically but certainly not limited to.


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## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

I went to a music store today and liked this one alot:

http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/...D80SSB-Dreadnought-Acoustic-Guitar?sku=518805

I think it has laminated sides and back. I really liked the feel of it and it had a not so bright sound which I like. Anyone have one? Are solid sides/back a must?


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## Grenvilleter (Dec 22, 2007)

Solid back and sides are not near as critical as a solid top.
FWIW, laminate back and sides are a little more tolerent to humidity issues and they can sound very, very good.
I would not be hesitant to purchase a laminate B & S guitar if it had a sound and feel that appealed to me. 
I do draw the line on laminate topped guitars however.
With that said, if I were a student just starting out, I'd have no problems with a laminate top as well.
Alvarez are nice guitars without a doubt. Musician's friend's price for a lam/solid is a little steep for me and I would buy a Blueridge lam first as their track record is so stellar and their sound so good. For another hundred bucks, you can get an all solid Revival guitar and they don't take a back seat to anything I've tried either.
FWIW, Revival guitars are made by a group of musicians that used to work for Saga( Blueridge). They really want to dent the dominance that Blueridge carries in the PacRim guitar dept. hence they are trying really hard to gather some market share. Probably the best single buy out there right now !


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## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

So I went with an Alvarez MD70. Just got it today. I noticed the low E string buzzes a bit when I play it a little aggressive. Sounds fine when played softly. Does a new acoustic need to be set up like a new electric? The guitar is new, but had been on display for quite some time, so the strings need replacing, but I'm guessing that won't fix the buzz? Truss rod adjustment maybe? The action is pretty low so maybe it needs to come up a touch. Any suggestions?


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## Guest (Oct 15, 2008)

The truss rod may or may not need an adjustment. The truss rod is for adjusting neck relief, not action. Action is adjusted with the saddle. Many people won't go to the effort to properly fit the saddle to the desired action and simply crank on the truss rod key. That may change the action but it also changes the entire character of the neck. Usually not for the better. Choose what guage of strings you will play and stick with that. Adjust your truss rod to get the correct relief, usually .008" to .010". Then adjust your action with the saddle. Simply cranking on the key will almost always create buzzy spots on the fretboard somewhere. Most likely you'll just relocate the trouble to another area of the fretboard. Not enough relief and it will buzz on the headstock end. Too much relief and it will buzz near the 7th and 8th frets or higher.


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## notjoeaverage (Oct 6, 2008)

Corrupted said:


> So I went with an Alvarez MD70. Just got it today. I noticed the low E string buzzes a bit when I play it a little aggressive. Sounds fine when played softly. Does a new acoustic need to be set up like a new electric? The guitar is new, but had been on display for quite some time, so the strings need replacing, but I'm guessing that won't fix the buzz? Truss rod adjustment maybe? The action is pretty low so maybe it needs to come up a touch. Any suggestions?


Good choice stepping up to all solid wood. If it didn't come with a case make sure you get one and also a hygrometer and humidifier absolute musts for solid wood guitars in SASK. If you want more info and some links on RH issues PM me


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## rippinglickfest (Jan 1, 2006)

*Cpx*

Yamaha makes some decent cutaway electric models in their CPX 700 and 900
series in your price range..... a buddy of mine owns a 900........comes with colour options too.


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## Grenvilleter (Dec 22, 2007)

Nice job Corrupted! :banana:
Glad to see you went with a solid wood guitar. You are not apt to outgrow it.
Yoda made some good points with regard to setup and, Yes, an acoustic should also be set up in accordance to the string gauge and playing style of the individual.
There are 4 main parameters for guitar set-up, either electric or acoustic. That's not to mention the other things that can cause string buzz such as an occasional high fret.

If the guitar is strung with light strings, you may find the extra tension from medium gauge strings could pull a little more relief into your neck and cure all your problems. 
That may be your cheapest first thing to try.

Good luck !


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## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

I changed the strings and it sounds horrible now. I put on Daddario 80/20 Bronze guage 12. I'm guessing I shouldn't have put bronze strings on as it now sounds very tinny and the rattle on the low E is worse. The guitar came with Elixer strings - dont' know what kind or guage, but they sounded much better. Any suggestions on brand/type of strings? I definately want a warmer sound.


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## Guest (Oct 16, 2008)

LOL!!

Good thing you didn't by a Taylor.

I'm wondering if they still sell strings called "Silk & Steel". They had a few strands of silk running lengthwise down the string that acted as a damper to tame brightness and also the harmonics. They might be what you're looking for.


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## rbbambino (Oct 10, 2007)

Corrupted said:


> I changed the strings and it sounds horrible now. I put on Daddario 80/20 Bronze guage 12. I'm guessing I shouldn't have put bronze strings on as it now sounds very tinny and the rattle on the low E is worse. The guitar came with Elixer strings - dont' know what kind or guage, but they sounded much better. Any suggestions on brand/type of strings? I definately want a warmer sound.


The MD-70 is a very nice guitar... I have a MD65.. so I know you will eventually get it right if you just give it a chance. 
All strings sound bright when they are first installed. After a few days they tend to mellow out a little. Martin still sells "silk and steel", but I suspect they would make the buzzing worse, because they are very light and you would definitely need to do a truss rod adjustment from what you have told us so far. Neck relief is corrected with the truss rod, but you must be very careful not to go tweaking the truss rod for the wrong reasons as was mentioned in a earlier post. If you like the gauge of the string you just put on.. then stay with that gauge and adjust your guitar to suit it. If you don't like the tone after the strings settled in.. then try different types.. I always use Phosphorous Bronze and my gauge is 11-52 or thereabouts. Coated strings always seem to have a warmer sound to me.. They also feel a bit heavier but that is probably in my head. You should get the shop that sold you the guitar ( or a good luthier ) to check out the string height (action). You can even take a ruler and check the height at the 12th fret then compare it to other guitars. It should be more than .080 thou from the bottom of the 6th string to the top of the 12th fret, however you really need a string action gauge to measure it to thousands of an inch!! My Alvarez has low action and it set at about .085. You may need to raise the saddle if your string height is less than that. BTW.. older Martins are usually in the 110 to 120 range!!! It could also be a problem with the frets being unlevel. If you just put a very long straight edge on the frets and look for any gaps... i.e. uneven fret height. If so they will need to be levelled by a luthier..
Anyway.. sorry about the ramble.


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## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

rbbambino said:


> The MD-70 is a very nice guitar... I have a MD65.. so I know you will eventually get it right if you just give it a chance.
> All strings sound bright when they are first installed. After a few days they tend to mellow out a little. Martin still sells "silk and steel", but I suspect they would make the buzzing worse, because they are very light and you would definitely need to do a truss rod adjustment from what you have told us so far. Neck relief is corrected with the truss rod, but you must be very careful not to go tweaking the truss rod for the wrong reasons as was mentioned in a earlier post. If you like the gauge of the string you just put on.. then stay with that gauge and adjust your guitar to suit it. If you don't like the tone after the strings settled in.. then try different types.. I always use Phosphorous Bronze and my gauge is 11-52 or thereabouts. Coated strings always seem to have a warmer sound to me.. They also feel a bit heavier but that is probably in my head. You should get the shop that sold you the guitar ( or a good luthier ) to check out the string height (action). You can even take a ruler and check the height at the 12th fret then compare it to other guitars. It should be more than .080 thou from the bottom of the 6th string to the top of the 12th fret, however you really need a string action gauge to measure it to thousands of an inch!! My Alvarez has low action and it set at about .085. You may need to raise the saddle if your string height is less than that. BTW.. older Martins are usually in the 110 to 120 range!!! It could also be a problem with the frets being unlevel. If you just put a very long straight edge on the frets and look for any gaps... i.e. uneven fret height. If so they will need to be levelled by a luthier..
> Anyway.. sorry about the ramble.


Thanks for the info. I could probably go to 13's, I like strings to be a bit heavier. That may help with the buzzing. And I'll try coated strings next time. I played the guitar again after my last post and it does sound nice played softly, but when strumming louder, thats where I don't like the sound. I'm not wailing on it or anything, just playing loudly. Maybe that is a characteristic of the Cedar top. I'm not going to give up on it, overall I love the feel of the neck and the way it sounds. I really like the deep bass tone of the lower strings (at softer volumes). Thanks again. 

To answer a previous post, it came with a really nice Alvarex case with a built in Hydrometer or whatever. So I'll need to get a humidifier.


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## gregory49 (Oct 16, 2008)

Alvarez make a great product. Congrats on your buy!


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## rbbambino (Oct 10, 2007)

These string action gauges are quite handy.
http://www.stewmac.com/tsshop/ts007...m_medium=email&utm_campaign=ts0072&clk=196770
You might want to subscribe the the stewmac newsletter. They just sent out a very informative email/newletter with good information one checking out a guitar. FYI


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## Grenvilleter (Dec 22, 2007)

Try yourself a set of phospher bronze, 13-56 range. Every guitar (and listener) has it's own parameters it prefer's. I just put a set of 80/20's on a hog guitar and I find them way too bright although, in a few days they have toned down a bit. Next time however, it's PB. On the other hand, my rosewood guitars like 80/20's.
Most dread's can handle medium gauge strings and some actually recommend them.
I doubt you will like silk and steel strings unless you are into classical guitar or you are just beginning and do not like the bite of an acoustic string on uncalloused fingertips. To me, they sound dead in about an hour :zzz:
Besides, you want to increase string tension to give you slightly more releif or "pull" on your neck. 
There are many places on the net that describe the parameters of a well set up guitar. Frank Ford also has a wonderful site at Frets.com. That's not the proper web address but it will get you very close with a search.

The other thing you could do is throw caution to the wind and loosen your truss rod about 1/4 turn. See if your problem goes away.:food-smiley-004:


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## Corrupted (Sep 20, 2007)

I just noticed that on the top of the guitar, just behind the bridge, where the two pieces of wood come together to form the top, I can see the seam and feel it slightly with my finger. Should I be concerned about this? Or is it just because there is no finish or laminating on this top to cover up the seam? I might be paranoid.


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## rbbambino (Oct 10, 2007)

Corrupted said:


> I just noticed that on the top of the guitar, just behind the bridge, where the two pieces of wood come together to form the top, I can see the seam and feel it slightly with my finger. Should I be concerned about this? Or is it just because there is no finish or laminating on this top to cover up the seam? I might be paranoid.


Many guitars have a seam there. When the humidity level changes, the seam can become alarmingly noticeable. I've had a couple of Martins that had rather noticeable seams (at certain times of the year), but they were quite normal. Other guitars have one piece tops and therefore... nothing. If your guitar has a two piece top, make sure it is properly humidified then stop worrying... just play it.


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