# New tubes for a Traynor YBA1-MOD1. Reccomendations?



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

The other evening my amp suddenly shut off, giving a distinctive pop, when I flicked the standby switch to "operate." I called up Traynor, and they said that a) a tube likely shorted out, and b) I certainly blew a fuse.

I was actually going to be starting a NAD thread soon after playing with it for a few months, but the tube got the best of me...

I'm now shopping for a pair of current production EL34s (and of course a fuse). The amp has Ruby EL34s stock, so I'm naturally weary of going the same route. I also use the built-in attenuator to get the power tubes cookin', and I move my amp around a lot, so I want something that is quite robust.

This is actually the first time that I've had tubes fail on me, and I would like to buy a reasonably priced tube that is both reliable and gives a well balanced tone for classic and hard rock (I'm worried about it being too harsh since I now have V30s in the cab).

I've been pouring over info all over the web trying to get a sense of what might be a good fit.

From what I gather:

a) SED: the best on all fronts, but no longer in production and very pricey... and even at that, word on the web is that the last ones in production weren't as good as in years past. I'm a bit biased (no pun intended) here as I've had SED 6L6s in the past and loved them. Used them and gigged with them for years and they never failed.

b) JJ: reliable/robust, but perhaps a bit too dark without detail?

c) Shuguang/Ruby/Groove Tubes: Not sure if I should lump them altogether here, but most come from the same place (Shuguang). Excellent tone it seems, but I'm not sure about reliability.

There's no way I'll be putting in SEDs at first as something in the amp itself may cause the power tubes to short again, and that would be a lot of money to waste. So I'd like the initial tubes to be cheap. But there's a very good chance that the tubes will be fine and last awhile, so I want to get a good fit right away. 

Also, is it generally considered hazardous to rebias an amp yourself if you have little technical knowledge?


----------



## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I have Mallory in my blues Junior and theywere a bif improvement over the JJ's that came with it. Eventually I want to upgrade my vibroverb, but man that is going to cost a ton of money. 

You can try the tube store in Hamilton. They sell by brand, by amp model or tube type. If you pick search by amp model they will give you 3 packages to choose from. Value Premium Vintage ...


----------



## Moosehead (Jan 6, 2011)

jj's sound fine in my marshall (jcm800) and for the price im sold. 
If I was gigging a lot they're cheap enough you can get 2 sets for less than the winged C's (SED)


----------



## Stonehead (Nov 12, 2013)

I put a set of Mesa EL34's in mine and they sounded great.


----------



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

Stonehead said:


> I put a set of Mesa EL34's in mine and they sounded great.


Good to know! What was the difference from the stock Rubys? BTW is the MOD1 an easy amp to rebias? I know nothing about such technical matters.


----------



## Stonehead (Nov 12, 2013)

isoneedacoffee said:


> Good to know! What was the difference from the stock Rubys? BTW is the MOD1 an easy amp to rebias? I know nothing about such technical matters.


They were a tad darker sounding which wasn't a bad this as the amp is bright. Biasing is relatively easy. There is a Traynor service manual you can download for the amp and you just set the trim pot to 45mv DC and your good to go.


----------



## Rideski (Feb 25, 2009)

I've had absolutely no problems with the stock tubes in my mod1 head and Ive taken it all over the place for the last year. Maybe one of them got damaged in transport? Personally I wouldn't hesitate to put the same ones back in if you like the tone of your head.


----------



## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

isoneedacoffee said:


> I'm now shopping for a pair of current production EL34s (and of course a fuse). The amp has Ruby EL34s stock, so I'm naturally weary of going the same route. *I also use the built-in attenuator to get the power tubes cookin',* and I move my amp around a lot, so I want something that is quite robust.


Doesn't really work that way. The only way to get 'the power tubes cookin' on that amp is to run the 'attenuator' at 0dB and play really loud - or use an external attenuator. Because it's not really an attenuator as we define them (i.e. post power amp). It is, in fact, a pre-power stage master volume control (or PPIMV, as it is usually referred to), just not using a pot but rather a multiposition switch. So don't blame the 'working the tubes' as a possible factor in the failure. Most likely just a bad tube.

You should get two sets anyways, a cheaper set for testing/backup and a better set you want to use. Just MHO.


----------



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

Since the amp is still under warranty, I took it into Long & McQuade to have it checked out. I left the old tubes in, and they did a quick test there with a new fuse. It again popped immediately when the standby switch was put to the "operate" position, and the amp turned off. So, I had to leave the amp there for the technician to take a look at it.

My honeymoon period with this amp is now over. 

I love the sound and the flexibility it offers for tone/volume, but I'm concerned about it's build quality and design.

My reasoning is as follows: 1) It wasn't just a fuse problem, as a new fuse was tested and I got the same result, 2) If a tube caused the fuse to blow, I think this is a horrible design. Why would anyone spend $50-60 on new tubes, go through the rebiasing process - with or without an amp tech (which is maybe $60 more) - only to possibly kill the new tubes as soon as you turn on the amp? 2) If it's the output transformer, then it seems to me to be a pretty serious problem (build quality?). 

Ironically, I replaced my YBA1 from 1974 that never gave me problems with this reissue from 2013 and I'm having problems!


----------



## keto (May 23, 2006)

It could be something as simple as a 2 cent resistor. I wouldn't obsess about it, they'll make it right. Tube amps by their very nature are going to occasionally have issues like this, it's not a problem unique to Yorkville or your amp...generally, their stuff is pretty bulletproof as it's made to be rented out repeatedly and subjected to lord knows what/how much abuse.

I put JJ KT77's, which are a straight up EL34 replacement, in my Dual Rec. Sounds fabulous, I will consider for my Marshall when the time comes. Sort of a cross between an EL34 and a 6L6, firmer bottom end.


----------



## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

I don't want to derail the thread and hope the OP gets the problem sorted out quickly. However, has anyone directly compared the mod1 and RI Bassmasters to the earlier 60s heads? Are they even close?

I am tempted to pic one up but only if they truly sound as good as the old ones. How much did they sell for new?

Thanks
TG


----------



## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Mass produced electronics aren't always flawless. In my experience though, if you use it regularly, as intended, and get through the warranty period, you've gone a long ways to working out the weak components (or assembly issues). IMO, if it don't bust in the first year, it will last for many more. That's also what I tell clerks trying to sell me extended warranties for electronic equipment.

PS: I've repaired electronics in one form or another for 45 years. This is based on my experience on either side of the soldering iron.


----------



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

traynor_garnet said:


> I don't want to derail the thread and hope the OP gets the problem sorted out quickly. However, has anyone directly compared the mod1 and RI Bassmasters to the earlier 60s heads? Are they even close?
> 
> I am tempted to pic one up but only if they truly sound as good as the old ones. How much did they sell for new?
> 
> ...


I think I mentioned this in another thread but I'd be happy to some a/b testing with you in Montreal if you wish. Pm me if you want to arrange something. It'd be fun!


----------



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

As it turns out it was a tube that was shorting out. I'll be picking up the amp in the next few days. 

Phew.


----------



## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

Kind of what I hoped/expected. 
By chance I was looking at the owners info for a vintage Princeton (1965?) yesterday, it mentioned that over 80% of amp failures are due to tubes. What really surprised me was the warranty. 3 months, parts only! If you filled out the card, it was extended to one year, again no labour!




isoneedacoffee said:


> 2) If a tube caused the fuse to blow, I think this is a horrible design. Why would anyone spend $50-60 on new tubes, go through the rebiasing process - with or without an amp tech (which is maybe $60 more) - only to possibly kill the new tubes as soon as you turn on the amp?


This has nothing to do with the design and everything to do with modern tubes. It makes no difference what brand amp you buy, modern tubes have high failure rates. It's rare that the amp kills the tubes, more likely that a bad tube will burn out components in the amp (usually resistors).
And when you buy new replacement tubes, the failure rate is also fairly high, often right out of the box.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out, and hope you don't let a bad tube affect your opinion of the amp. As I said earlier, it could have happened with any brand amp, or with new tubes you bought to put in any brand amp.


----------



## parkhead (Aug 14, 2009)

jj


----------



## dropdew (Nov 18, 2014)

I use jj's in the power section , 2 jj high gain ecc83s in v 1 and 2 and a sovtek 12ax7 LPS in the phase inverter. 

Sent from my B1-730 using Tapatalk


----------



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

parkhead said:


> jj





dropdew said:


> I use jj's in the power section


Which JJs are you using? E34L?, the old EL34?, or the new EL34 II?


----------



## dropdew (Nov 18, 2014)

El 84

Sent from my B1-730 using Tapatalk


----------



## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

dropdew said:


> El 84


How do you fit EL84's into a YBA1 ?


----------



## Rski (Dec 28, 2013)

Yeah modern tubes may not be as hardy as some older tubes of the golden era of production tubes, I fixed some strange tube amp years ago, the 6L6 were red plating, turned out to be the power tube cathode bypass capacitor was shorted. Replaced those tubes, happy friend. Put those tubes in a 15 watt biased them hard, they definitely had more presence then the 6V6 modern, yet after red plating they still working. I've muffed my 1st 50 watt build many years ago, the JJ el34 red plated, hum became apparent and taping caused mayhem, probably the screen wire cut loose??


----------



## Tony65x55 (Mar 7, 2012)

JJs in the power section, Tung-Sol 12AX7s in the front end.


----------



## isoneedacoffee (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I ended up getting a pair of EL34s Preferred Series from thetubestore as part of their Black Friday sale. The price was fantastic, and it comes with 6 months warranty. I'll report back! According to the site's review, it should also be able to bring down the high end of the MOD1.


----------

