# String Height Between The Nut And The 2nd Fret At The First Fret?



## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

I am putting in a new preslotted Graphtech nut in my strat. The guitar has a radius of about 16, while the nut was set for 12. I have found info saying the height at the low E should be .010, and at the high e .006. What about the other strings?


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Between 6 and 10 thousandths


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## NashvilleDeluxe (Feb 7, 2018)

That's a FLAT radius for a Strat! Think of it as an acoustic neck, then: verify whether the nut slot itself is flat or curved on the bottom. Fenders tend to be radiused, but checking is smart. If it's radiused, sand the bottom of the nut on a matching radiused surface (you can stick sandpaper to the 1st fret and sand in a vertical motion) until the high and low E strings are at the values you want. The "hump" in the middle (especially the D and G) will have to be filed with gauged slot files. Once that's done, re-shape (sand, etc) the top of the nut, so half of the wound strings are above the nut slot. The unwound can be level with the top of the nut.
The "2nd fret" method above is probably okay, but I prefer getting all the other values (frets levelled/radiused, proper relief, correct string radius at the bridge, desired action height) done first, and then doing the nut with feeler gauges (and more generous values) above the 1st fret without depressing the string. It's just personal habit at this point! Will at @La Grange Guitar Workshop (FB)


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)




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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

Specs that I've saw were always measuerd at the first fret without anything fretted, 18 - 20 thousandths of an inch across the board.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

NashvilleDeluxe said:


> That's a FLAT radius for a Strat! Think of it as an acoustic neck, then: sand the bottom on a flat surface until the high and low E strings are at the values you want. The "hump" in the middle (especially the D and G) will have to be filed with gauged slot files. Once that's done, re-shape (sand, etc) the top of the nut, so half of the wound strings are above the nut slot. The unwound can be level with the top of the nut.
> The "2nd fret" method above is probably okay, but I prefer getting all the other values (frets levelled/radiused, proper relief, correct string radius at the bridge, desired action height) done first, and then doing the nut with feeler gauges (and more generous values) above the 1st fret without depressing the string. It's just personal habit at this point! Will at @La Grange Guitar Workshop (FB)


It is from the '80s. It had a Floyd Rose and locking nut at the top. Years ago I bought a usa Fender left handed trem and installed it. I also removed the locking nut. I changed the pickups out for Van Zandt Vintage Plus, shielded the guitar, added some good old robot tuners, and today my "Back plate noise cancelling system arrived.

So to address the flat radius, yes it is flat, but that's the way some of the Floyd Rose type necks are.

I have a set of the nut files.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

sulphur said:


> Specs that I've saw were always measuerd at the first fret without anything fretted, 18 - 20 thousandths of an inch across the board.


That value can change depending on the bridge hieght. So by freting the 3rd fret and checking the 2nd, you are only getting the nut height. Which is what you want if you are filing the nut slots. As I said the radius of the nut is different than the radius of the neck.


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

player99 said:


> That value can change depending on the bridge hieght. So by freting the 3rd fret and checking the 2nd, you are only getting the nut height. Which is what you want if you are filing the nut slots. As I said the radius of the nut is different than the radius of the neck.


If you measure your string height to the desired setting, the first nut action can then be measured as I had mentioned.
I'd never heard of a staggered measuurement at the nut before, it's usually uniform.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

player99 said:


> the radius of the nut is different than the radius of the neck.


Find the proper nut for your situation and order it?
or do what NashvilleDeluxe said.


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

It's .018" to .022" without frettingl between the first fret and the string. You MUST do a complete set up first. Relief, string height, pickup height, intonition and LASTLY height at first fret. Measurements are recomendations only, not set in stone (as are all measurements). Some folks like a bit different but if you hit right around .020" most players will like it there.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

sulphur said:


> If you measure your string height to the desired setting, the first nut action can then be measured as I had mentioned.
> I'd never heard of a staggered measuurement at the nut before, it's usually uniform.


That's from Graphtech.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Jim DaddyO said:


> It's .018" to .022" without frettingl between the first fret and the string. You MUST do a complete set up first. Relief, string height, pickup height, intonition and LASTLY height at first fret. Measurements are recomendations only, not set in stone (as are all measurements). Some folks like a bit different but if you hit right around .020" most players will like it there.


If the nut and or nut slots are too high, when you fret the strings they will bend and go out of tune. Too low, there will be buzz. So the relationship I am setting which is the nut slot depth, is a relationship that is dependent on clearing the first fret when the G or 3rd fret is pressed. That has to be correct whether it's done first or last (as long as the 1st, 2nd and 3rd frets are not going to be leveled). In this case my guitar was playing really nicely, but the nut was made in a hurry by a luthier when he was refretting the guitar. I wanted to replace the nut.


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

player99 said:


> If the nut and or nut slots are too high, when you fret the strings they will bend and go out of tune. Too low, there will be buzz. So the relationship I am setting which is the nut slot depth, is a relationship that is dependent on clearing the first fret when the G or 3rd fret is pressed. That has to be correct whether it's done first or last. In this case my guitar was playing really nicely, but the nut was made in a hurry by a luthier when he was refretting the guitar. I wanted to replace the nut.


Those measurements and procedure will not pull the strings sharp and not cause buzzing. They are from Fender. It's what they use at the factory.

Neck relief - capo on 1st fret, fret at 17th, there should be .010 to .012 at the 7th fret between the string and fret.
String height - 4/64 to 5/64 at the 17th fret. Saddles should be parallel to the body, not tilted.
Pick up height - 1/8 on bass side, 3/32 on treble side between string and pole piece with the string fretted at the highest fret
Nut height - .020 +/- .002 at first fret

Source: Dan Erlewine's repair guide.

Again, these are recommende guide lines. For instance, Jeff Beck has no relief on the neck at all. He likes it flat with a string height of 5/64 on the bass side and 3/64 on the trable side. SRV had .012 relief and his string height was a beefy 7/64 on the bass side and 5/64 on the treble side. 

If you use measurements, you can adjust from there and you will always know your way back if you mess up.


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

Jim DaddyO said:


> Those measurements and procedure will not pull the strings sharp and not cause buzzing. They are from Fender. It's what they use at the factory.
> 
> Neck relief - capo on 1st fret, fret at 17th, there should be .010 to .012 at the 7th fret between the string and fret.
> String height - 4/64 to 5/64 at the 17th fret. Saddles should be parallel to the body, not tilted.
> ...


The drop in string height is managed with the saddles or bridge too, not the nut.
Not that you had referred to anything otherwise Jim, just clarifying about player99s earlier remarks.


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## NashvilleDeluxe (Feb 7, 2018)

I edited my suggestion above (I was dictating into a phone yesterday) in case people in THE FUTURE (greetings, Earthlings) use this as a reference. Check if the existing nut slot is radiused or flat (Fender usually radiused, but the 80's were wild times!) If it's radiused, sand the nut bottom to match the neck radius until your low and high E are at the desired values. The easiest way is to stick sandpaper to the first fret and work the nut bottom vertically (up and down).


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

With the fret pressed down between 2nd and 3rd fret, I generally go with about .002 on the unwound and .003-4 on the wound. You could literally go with almost nothing and it will be fine. Imagine the nut as just being another fret. Why would you want your first fret to be substantially higher than the rest? When playing, you should have the same feel going from nut to first fret as you do going from first to second and so on.


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## GTmaker (Apr 24, 2006)

Jim DaddyO said:


> It's .018" to .022" without frettingl between the first fret and the string. You MUST do a complete set up first. Relief, string height, pickup height, intonition and LASTLY height at first fret. Measurements are recomendations only, not set in stone (as are all measurements). Some folks like a bit different but if you hit right around .020" most players will like it there.


I want to know how anyone can do a "complete setup " first..... when the nut has not been slotted yet?
G.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

GTmaker said:


> I want to know how anyone can do a "complete setup " first..... when the nut has not been slotted yet?
> G.


Capo the first fret?


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

GTmaker said:


> I want to know how anyone can do a "complete setup " first..... when the nut has not been slotted yet?
> G.


When you make a new nut you slot it to get the string spacing. In that process you can get "kinda" close just in the method you use in making a nut (the half pencil trick). Do the set up, then adjust the nut slots for first fret height.


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## mpa3d (Aug 3, 2021)

player99 said:


> I am putting in a new preslotted Graphtech nut in my strat. The guitar has a radius of about 16, while the nut was set for 12. I have found info saying the height at the low E should be .010, and at the high e .006. What about the other strings?


First, make sure you get the radius on the nut correct. You can use a fine grade sandpaper with a light adhesive back...stick it to the neck and hand sand the nut until it matches. As for the height of the other strings, and assuming you have already set your desired neck relief.

1) string to tension and capo at fret 1
2) measure the height of your bass and treble side E string to spec at the 15th fret, which varies by guitar. I typically go 3/64 on the treble side (roughly .040), and slightly under 5/64 on the bass side (roughly .070). The Stew Mac string action gauge is great for this. as you measure from top of fret to bottom of string.
3) Using an under string radius gauge that matches the radius of your neck, the treble and bass E strings should be touching the top of the radius gauge. Now raise your other strings until they don't touch the radius gauge, then lower them one at a time until they touch the radius gauge causing the string to mute. Your strings will now match your neck radius.

As for the nut side, if the nut is to high, lower it from the bottom. Do not deepen the nut slots to lower the strings at the 1st fret. Follow the spec for your guitar at the first fret. As for the nut slots, the Bass E, A, and D strings should sit in the nut slut so half of the sting is in the slot and half of the string is above the slot. On the G, B, and treble E, those strings should sit in the slot flush, but not go deeper than the top of nut. Again, the importance of having the correct radius on your nut is huge here.


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