# Speaker wiring question - FASTON



## troyhead (May 23, 2014)

In general, I like to experiment and swap things around a lot with my guitars and amps. I can solder a little bit, but I don't have any space to dedicate to soldering, so I have to clear some room and set everything up any time I want to make a little change.

While I was at Q Components a little while ago, I picked up some FASTON connectors so that I theoretically rewire speakers just by sliding these connectors onto the tabs on the speaker terminal. My question is, how is one supposed to actually attach this connector to the speaker wire? I presume that manufacturers use some kind of special crimping tool, but I'm not going to buy one of those for my 27 cent connectors. Can I just use some pliers and smash the little tabs on the connector around the wire? Do I need to put some solder on their too, or is that unnecessary? I'd probably put some heat-shrink tubing over top to help hold it together, but is there something I'm missing?


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I think you bought the wrong connectors. The same thing almost happened to a friend when we were at QComponents together buying some stuff.

You are going directly onto the (male) tabs on the speaker...correct?

I usually solder these on as I don't have a good crimper

McBride MCD205 20pak - Parts & Accessories | Connectors - Canada










I think I have some extra if you want to save the trip out to Colby Dr.


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## troyhead (May 23, 2014)

Thanks @greco !! Maybe we will have to arrange the little soldering tutorial we talked about some time ago! I'll send you a PM and maybe we can set that up in the next week or so.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

troyhead said:


> Thanks @greco !! Maybe we will have to arrange the little soldering tutorial we talked about some time ago! I'll send you a PM and maybe we can set that up in the next week or so.


That would be great! 

Did you want me to check to see how many connectors I have, assuming I'm correct abut this? 

Some tabs on speakers are a slightly different size, but usually they are smaller and these connectors fit fine. That has been my somewhat limited experience.

Awaiting your PM


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## GTmaker (Apr 24, 2006)

the don't thing you need to worry about is if the clip end slides nicely onto the speaker clip.
As for the type of connector you bought, I think they are great.
Just expose 1/4 inch of bare speaker wire. Slip the bare section into the V clamp which will leave the covered speaker wire in perfect position for the other large clamp.
Get you nicest pair of pliers...( Im going to assume you have pliers) and then using the pliers, crimp the clamps onto the bare wire and do the same for the other clamps.
AS far as I can tell, your FASTON connectors are a much better design then the standard crap that everyone else uses.

and thats all I have to say about that.
G.





troyhead said:


> In general, I like to experiment and swap things around a lot with my guitars and amps. I can solder a little bit, but I don't have any space to dedicate to soldering, so I have to clear some room and set everything up any time I want to make a little change.
> 
> While I was at Q Components a little while ago, I picked up some FASTON connectors so that I theoretically rewire speakers just by sliding these connectors onto the tabs on the speaker terminal. My question is, how is one supposed to actually attach this connector to the speaker wire? I presume that manufacturers use some kind of special crimping tool, but I'm not going to buy one of those for my 27 cent connectors. Can I just use some pliers and smash the little tabs on the connector around the wire? Do I need to put some solder on their too, or is that unnecessary? I'd probably put some heat-shrink tubing over top to help hold it together, but is there something I'm missing?


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

@GTmaker The FASTON connectors are the ones that QComponents advised you not to buy! (Remember?) They are not the correct size.

From the QComponents site:

_The Neutrik Speakon is the only connector expressly designed for high power loudspeaker systems. Each contact is rated at 30 amps to ensure contact resistance is kept to a minimum. All plugs feature built-in cable strain reliefs and all enclosure jacks are air tight. Both pieces "twist and lock" together making accidental disconnections a thing of the past. Great for Bi-amping and speaker snakes.

*Note: The NAFASTON replacement receptacle is for use in NL4MP, NL4MPR, NL8MPR. They are sold individually.*

Model: NLFASTON
Description: *Replacement receptacle for tabs with "positive lock".*
Number of Connectors: 1 _


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

GTmaker said:


> AS far as I can tell, your FASTON connectors are a much better design then *the standard crap that everyone else uses.*


What do you mean by this?


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## GTmaker (Apr 24, 2006)

greco said:


> What do you mean by this?


I was commenting on the much better design of the Faston connectors.
I have no idea whether they fit speaker connections or not.
I would assume that Faston connectors come in different sizes and that they make a size that fits speaker connectors.
IF they dont make a connector that fits, they should cause their design is much better then the more common types.
I have no more input into this stuff....after all its just a silly connector.
I am moving on and going to try and revise the theory of the arrow of time.

G.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

GTmaker said:


> ....its just a silly connector.


...until you really need one


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Despite the crimp termination of these, I always solder them; If it's the kind in the OP I will also fold over those leaves and crimp with pliers, if the kind in post #2 (tube) I generally avoid, but if it's what I got I fill that with solder. This is mostly to protect the exposed copper from oxidation as well as to provide some addition structural integrity to the joint (I too, like to swap speakers around a lot... sometimes you're not as gentle as you could be).

I am not a fan of them, but they are a necessary evil sometimes. What I prefer is speakers with proper binding posts vs plain solder terminals. I also have a foot or 2 of wire permanently solderred on to my spares (that have tabs only) with a 1/4" jack on the other end for easy swaps.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

For smaller applications (100W or less) I wouldn't worry about 30A rating or anything special.
However, do note that there are different widths of the tabs and spade lug type connectors. (ex. .187" vs .250")


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