# Tung-Oil Finish on Guitar Body...



## StevieMac (Mar 4, 2006)

Question: I just bought an ash Strat body (natural) that apparently has "a few coats of tung oil" already applied. What are my options for finishing it from here i.e. what (if anything) can be applied _over_ the tung-oil? Was hoping to have it "bursted" and then clearcoated. Anybody know if this is even possible?


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

if you let it dry long enough - you should be able to recoat with a lacquer. But a polyurethane should go overtop the tung oil without issue.

I have used a tung oil based stain and lacquered over top before. But it may be wise to test in the cavity before you proceed with the whole body.

AJC


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## StevieMac (Mar 4, 2006)

Forgot to mention...the person who agreed to Burst it prefers to use water based lacquer. Would that work?


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

StevieMac said:


> Forgot to mention...the person who agreed to Burst it prefers to use water based lacquer. Would that work?


In my limited experience with water borne finishes (I prefer to use solvent based products which are superior still to the water based alternatives) they are a little less tolerant of going over incompatible products. I would be leery of spraying a water based finish over an oil based one. Not so much the other way around.

AJC


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## 1PUTTS (Sep 8, 2007)

I would go with AJC's suggestions. I'll add that I've only ever used water based stains and dyes just because I'm an amateur hack and do this in my kitchen...it's less toxic and easy to clean up.

And the water based products do seem a bit fussy as to how well they are absorbed by the wood. There is a "conditioner" you can apply before-hand that does improve things significantly...I'd probably look at giving it a light sanding first and then applying some of the conditioner.

BTW, beautiful looking ash...I wouldn't want to cover her up too much. A nice trans-burst would look great!


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## martyb1 (Aug 5, 2007)

ajcoholic said:


> In my limited experience with water borne finishes (I prefer to use solvent based products which are superior still to the water based alternatives) they are a little less tolerant of going over incompatible products. I would be leery of spraying a water based finish over an oil based one. Not so much the other way around.
> 
> AJC


OK,without any attempt to cause trouble or disagree with anyone,I would just like to know what makes solvent based products superior to water based?
I can see a compatibility issue trying to use them together but other than that,what makes the solvent based better?
Like I said,not being a smart a$$ or anything.There are lots of guys here with many more years experience than me and I would just like to know?


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

martyb1 said:


> OK,without any attempt to cause trouble or disagree with anyone,I would just like to know what makes solvent based products superior to water based?


Whenever (to my knowledge being in the wood industry for the majority of my life) water based VS traditional solvent based product has been tested head to head, in industry standard (and widely accepted) tests of durability, wear, transparency, aging, etc etc solvent based finishes still came out ahead and in most cases WAY ahead.

SOme water based finish suppliers claim superior products, but when tested against the solvent based alternatives have fallen short.

The majority of furniture factories (and smaller shops) that are not limited to water based finishes by law/emissions/etc still use solvent based product. That says something does it not?

There are some excellent water borne wood finishes today (and a lot of so so ones) but nothing YET that can compare equally to solvent based. But some day, maybe...

The thing is, on a guitar it is not going to matter that much. Heck, we are still using NC lacquer which is soft and has a low wear & resistance to checking, etc... compared to what is available today. WHere it counts in on that hardwood floor, or dining room table, or executive desk, kitchen, etc you just paid BIG bucks for.

AJC


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

I used a good waterbased product for a few years when I started spraying furniture. The specs on it said that it was harder in the first 24 hrs than NC. Yes it was nice having not to use thinners and quick cleanup with warm water. But that also presented other Canadian type problems i.e. getting the stuff in winter and always having to remember to store in a heated area. I turn on the heat in my finish shop only when I need to. 

I was getting it from a company in TO that shipped it to me. It was becoming pretty expensive too( $120 for a gal on sealer and lacquer) . That company then went out of business and I would to have imported that brand. I found a local finisher for NC and started using that. 

I also found I like the feel on NC a little better. The waterbased tended to feel and look a little like poly.

Ps I might be tempted to wipe that body with some thinners or acetone to make sure that there is no oils in the surface. Oil residue is what makes lacquer incompatible.... or not stick to the wood.


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## StevieMac (Mar 4, 2006)

All helpful information fellas so thanks again. 

I've been _really_ impressed with the results Marty has posted on his site - all of it exceptional IMO - so the body has been sent to him for a 50's style 2-tone burst job. Check out the pic below and imagine it applied to the ash Strat body! Anyway, I trust his judgement so, if he figures it can be done using water based products, I'm inclined to go along. Perhaps he'll post a record of the process for others to follow if they wish (assuming it works!). :smile:


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## johnglca (Mar 10, 2008)

I have a text that explains the difference. Water based are set finishes that are refloated in water with a binder (ie, take a set finish and grind it and add a liquid and binder). A solvent finish (although water is a solvent also), that dissolves the finish material, as in alcohol and shellac, and adheres by liquifying the previous coat and binding. The pic in my text shows long strands of finish interlocking with the previous coat--the solvent in the finish softens the undercoat and the two amalgamate as one coat. This is why one has to be careful to not reliquify and remove the previous coat with shellac, for example. I have used both finishes, and had water based finishes come off in sheets because it is not interlinked with the previous coat. Would not touch the stuff.


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Marty has had success with what he is using. Some of the older stuff was bad but the California EPA rules on emissions have fueled a lot of research and improvements. 

There are a lot of waterbased products designed for other applications that I have seen that remind me of the waterbased lacquer I used to use. Poli Glow a fiberglass restorer for boats and a slate sealer called Mira shine look, smell and act very similar.... to me anyway.


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## martyb1 (Aug 5, 2007)

The stuff I use has 100% burn in just like reg Nirto.I have actually used it over TruOil to tint a neck,no problems.
I figure if I clean it well,spray a couple coats of sealer,it should be fine.I'm thinking because it is ash it will need to be grain filled too.I guess I will see when I get it


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