# Cap job cost - Traynor YBA 1



## ed2000 (Feb 16, 2007)

My amp, with the speaker cone oscillation, may need a cap replacement since the p/s caps appear to be original from '65 or '66. What would be a rough estimate of the parts to be replaced. It will be a DIY project for the winter. Is the OEM type of aluminum can p/s cap still available for ease of installation?


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## dtsaudio (Apr 15, 2009)

CE is still making the can caps. Available at Antique Electronics Supply in Arizona
Capacitors | Antique Electronic Supply LLC
You may also be able to use something like a JJ multi-section cap, but requires a clamp to hold it in place
Can Capacitors
They sell the clamps too


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## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

Traynor liked to use 40/450 duals, either in cans, or in under-chassis mount paper tubulars. If you require the latter, just use pairs of individual caps to replace the duals.
If you need cans, you may find that the exact (twist-lock) replacements (CE's) are not available in the configuration you need, particularly high enough voltage ratings. Those cost a lot, anyway.
Don't bother searching for genuine, old surplus Mallory or Sprague stock as their age may already have rendered them of limited remaining service life.
You have a good chance of finding the correct, (or better) values, in a cap that requires the vertical mounting bracket - that would be a good choice.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

electrolytic-cans - Google Search


Multi-Section Capacitors in the Electronic Parts Department at Parts Express | 1383


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## Scottone (Feb 10, 2006)

I've always used the 2 x 50uf can caps that are widely available and relatively inexpensive. As mentioned previously, you'll need to remove the existing can caps and install clamps to hold the new ones. While you are in there, you should replace the 2 caps in the bias supply as well as the cathode bypass caps in the pre-amp.

BTW, I found an old post which detailed a great method for cleanly removing the old can caps. 

You'll need a large blade screwdriver and a mallet. Basically, you put the blade of the screwdriver at the round end of the tab and firmly strike the handle with the mallet. Once you get the hang of it, the tab and solder blob cleanly lift off the chassis. I removed the caps on an old Guitarmate this way in about 5 minutes.

To think that I used to desolder the tabs with a big iron, which is a real PITA. Obviously, you'll want to remove the tubes before doing this


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