# Lowering the Strings on a Classical Yamaha C-40



## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

My finger tips are sore all the time, would like to try lowering the strings and wondering if the pros file down the white plastic bridge or if a person could order a more narrow one, loosen the strings and slide it in. Bottom three strings are steel wound, top three are nylon. I been looking for a new guitar with fret markers but guitars with a neck 1.75" or wider are difficult to find. A Gretsch New Yorker has a 1.75" neck and looks like most Martins have 1.75" necks. Yamaha has nothing within 1/4" of what I am use too except another classical which I do not want.


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## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

Bastille day said:


> My finger tips are sore all the time, would like to try lowering the strings and wondering if the pros file down the white plastic bridge or if a person could order a more narrow one, loosen the strings and slide it in. Bottom three strings are steel wound, top three are nylon. I been looking for a new guitar with fret markers but guitars with a neck 1.75" or wider are difficult to find. A Gretsch New Yorker has a 1.75" neck and looks like most Martins have 1.75" necks. Yamaha has nothing within 1/4" of what I am use too except another classical which I do not want.


The white part is the saddle and it is removeable if you loosen/remove the strings. When I lowered the action of classical guitars, I'd use fine grit sand paper on a hard flat surface. Then I'd sand down the bottom of the saddle, not the top. Making sure to apply nice even pressure when sanding and test fitting often. Depending on the material, usually only a few passes was enough to make a noticeable difference.


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## ed2000 (Feb 16, 2007)

One other item that contributes to playing comfort is the depth of the string slots of the nut. With an optimal nut slot, playing notes in the first 3 or 4 frets will be easier. I'm surprised to hear you complain about sore fingertips because playing at least 1/2 hour per day should build the calluses in 2 to 3 weeks, especially easy on nylon strings.. Also, there are other string size choices (I think it's called hard to soft) that affect tension. A possibility of going to thinner strings could be tuning accuracy problems. A too high of a bridge has only a minor effect on fingertip soreness but it will cause playabilty problems from the 5 -6 fret upwards. If you see more than an 1/8th inch of bridge rising above the saddle then it may be safe to shave it. Without seeing the guitar we can't offer any definite advice of the amount of adjustment needed.
If you're close to Scarborough I would be willing to help a fellow guitar player out.

ps. be sure to play the guitar every day, at least 10 minutes at a time, repeat X3. Keep your fingernails short so they do not contact the fretboard, have fun and it won't feel like work.


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

ed2000 said:


> One other item that contributes to playing comfort is the depth of the string slots of the nut. With an optimal nut slot, playing notes in the first 3 or 4 frets will be easier. I'm surprised to hear you complain about sore fingertips because playing at least 1/2 hour per day should build the calluses in 2 to 3 weeks, especially easy on nylon strings.. Also, there are other string size choices (I think it's called hard to soft) that affect tension. A possibility of going to thinner strings could be tuning accuracy problems. A too high of a bridge has only a minor effect on fingertip soreness but it will cause playabilty problems from the 5 -6 fret upwards. If you see more than an 1/8th inch of bridge rising above the saddle then it may be safe to shave it. Without seeing the guitar we can't offer any definite advice of the amount of adjustment needed.
> If you're close to Scarborough I would be willing to help a fellow guitar player out.
> 
> ps. be sure to play the guitar every day, at least 10 minutes at a time, repeat X3. Keep your fingernails short so they do not contact the fretboard, have fun and it won't feel like work.


I am going to try lowering the strings using JBEALS method. I know without measuring I am over 1/8". I been playing for hours for several months now and still get sore finger tips. I have been trying to alter the method of how I fret the string using the flat portion of my fingertips but I do not always remember to do this and it does not work on all chords. Thanks for all the help.


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## ed2000 (Feb 16, 2007)

Re: fingertips. Are you possibly pressing the strings with too much force? One tip I can offer is to gently strum chords while watching TV - easy chord changes like D to G.


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

ed2000 said:


> Re: fingertips. Are you possibly pressing the strings with too much force? One tip I can offer is to gently strum chords while watching TV - easy chord changes like D to G.


I am likely using to much force because I have no choice. The C40 is not a top of the line guitar.

In the meantime, I will change the strings and maybe experiment with lowering the strings.


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## Guest (Mar 21, 2015)

I came across this 'adjustable saddle'. Could work for what you have in mind.

[video=youtube;DsNc-ZIXQUU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsNc-ZIXQUU[/video]


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

I may just order a blank and shape to size in case something goes wrong and keep the original, original.

I have read while searching that getting a saddle from Yamaha is next to impossible.


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## Guest (Mar 23, 2015)

the important thing is to make sure is that the thickness is 
the same. otherwise, the saddle will flop back and forth.


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## ed2000 (Feb 16, 2007)

Bastille day said:


> I may just order a blank and shape to size in case something goes wrong and keep the original, original.
> 
> I have read while searching that getting a saddle from Yamaha is next to impossible.


I assumed aftermarket saddles all have the same(or very close) thickness. No need to use an OEM part for this. From what I hear a corian countertop segment will work as well.

My mind is racing again and kicking into DIY overdrive - what if you machined a JB Weld extruded segment into a saddle shape? JB Weld claims, once their product is cured, it can be drilled and filed. How about baking soda and crazy glue mixture to make a saddle?


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## skilsaw (Nov 4, 2014)

ed2000 said:


> How about baking soda and crazy glue mixture...?


Snort it up your nose, then carve notches in the top of your saddle so it is just like a nut.
If you try this about 20 times, you will have a whole box of nut saddles, otherwise called a "nut case".
Zowee, ca-chocka chocka zim bam boodle.

By the way, what do you do when you overdose on coffee?


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

ed2000 said:


> I assumed aftermarket saddles all have the same(or very close) thickness. No need to use an OEM part for this. From what I hear a corian countertop segment will work as well.
> 
> My mind is racing again and kicking into DIY overdrive - what if you machined a JB Weld extruded segment into a saddle shape? JB Weld claims, once their product is cured, it can be drilled and filed. How about baking soda and crazy glue mixture to make a saddle?


Anything 1/8 " wide should work although I read certain materials would give a different tone.

Except wood, as humidity or lack of it, would cause the saddle to be too tight or too sloppy.

Even a simple plastic ruler would work just a matter of finding someone with a scroll saw.

The original has a special cut where the G string goes over the saddle, not sure why.


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## ed2000 (Feb 16, 2007)

Bastille day said:


> The original has a special cut where the G string goes over the saddle, not sure why.


Is it offset(not in line). That would be for intonation compensation(good for the home, great for the nation)


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## albert (Apr 15, 2009)

Here's a dumb question. Have you tried lower tension strings? I like to use high tension strings (Saverez Red Card) because I like the increased projection of my Yamaha G-231 II guitar but medium tension strings still sound good and are much easier on the fingers.


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

albert said:


> Here's a dumb question. Have you tried lower tension strings? I like to use high tension strings (Saverez Red Card) because I like the increased projection of my Yamaha G-231 II guitar but medium tension strings still sound good and are much easier on the fingers.


I was unaware they made low tension strings, I will certainly give it a try.

I thought the nylon strings would be easier on the finger tips but maybe they are harder on the fingertips.

What if I went all steel wound? 

It's been good in a way because I am playing chords such as a D with two fingers with the index finger lay flat. A mini bar chord I suppose.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Just curious..is this a new guitar? On older guitars, this can be an issue.
If string height is abnormally high, I would look at the top (deck) to see if it is flat.
Check by placing a straight edge (ruler on edge) of the top, parallel with and just behind the bridge.
Cheers, d


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

laristotle said:


> I came across this 'adjustable saddle'. Could work for what you have in mind.
> 
> [video=youtube;DsNc-ZIXQUU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsNc-ZIXQUU[/video]


Thanks for that video, unfortunately I do not have speakers.

I would order half a dozen of those if they are different widths.

My string for sure need to be dropped but scared to mess with the original saddle.

If you know where these are available, post a link.

thanks

- - - Updated - - -



loudtubeamps said:


> Just curious..is this a new guitar? On older guitars, this can be an issue.
> If string height is abnormally high, I would look at the top (deck) to see if it is flat.
> Check by placing a straight edge (ruler on edge) of the top, parallel with and just behind the bridge.
> Cheers, d


It was brand new a few years ago and never leaves my apartment.

My neck is straight just the strings are high closet to the saddle.

A few weeks away from a possible Gretsch New Yorker but still want this C-40 Yamaha playable.


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## LydianGuitars (Apr 18, 2013)

Assuming the nut height is correct, the method for lowering string action is to sand down the saddle from the bottom. 
If you want to keep the original saddle, you can replace it with a replacement tusq saddle for classical guitar like this one (measure for proper thickness 1st):
http://www.graphtech.com/products/b...pq-9208-00-tusq-saddle-acoustic-classical-low

Like with any acoustic saddle, final fit shaping is needed to fit your your particular guitar. The one thing you have to be careful with in adjusting the height is that when you sand down the saddle, you must ensure that the bottom of the saddle is perpendicular to the face. 

In terms of strings, you could try low tension strings. Steel strings will have much, much more tension than even high tension classical guitar strings. Also, your classical guitar is not built to sustain the pull of steel strings.


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## Guest (Apr 12, 2015)

Bastille day said:


> My string for sure need to be dropped but scared to mess with the original saddle.
> 
> If you know where these are available, post a link.
> 
> thanks


http://www.amazon.ca/Generic-Replacement-Classical-Guitar-Slotted/dp/B00EQ28KMS

also, you can stop in your local guitar shop. take your original with you to compare.


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

laristotle said:


> http://www.amazon.ca/Generic-Replacement-Classical-Guitar-Slotted/dp/B00EQ28KMS
> 
> also, you can stop in your local guitar shop. take your original with you to compare.


Thanks for that, now my original saddle with a special cut for the G string, will this be a problem or do you think all reproductions would have this cut.

I don't understand intonation but know it's there on my saddle.


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## Guest (Apr 12, 2015)

Where about's in ontario are you? I'm sure there must be a guitar shop somewhere.
Just take your saddle with you and they should be able to help you. 
Yamaha is common model, so parts should be readily available.


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

laristotle said:


> Where about's in ontario are you? I'm sure there must be a guitar shop somewhere.
> Just take your saddle with you and they should be able to help you.
> Yamaha is common model, so parts should be readily available.


I researched this part a lot looking for one and Yamaha does not make these saddles easily available.

It shouldn't be this way but it is.


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## Bastille day (Mar 2, 2014)

laristotle said:


> Where about's in ontario are you? I'm sure there must be a guitar shop somewhere.
> Just take your saddle with you and they should be able to help you.
> Yamaha is common model, so parts should be readily available.


I researched this part a lot looking for one and Yamaha does not make these saddles easily available.

It shouldn't be this way but it is.


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2015)

what I mean is that a generic classical saddle should fit.


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