# Tweed covering -glue bleeding through



## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

I tweed covering came out nice except a couple of places where the contact cement has stained through & created a dark kind of stain .I'm wondering if there is a way to remove the stain ,I am planning on lacquering the cab .


----------



## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

The problem you describe is exactly why I stopped using contact cement. I now use Weldbond on all my cabs and it is problem free. I doubt you can remove the stain because one contact cement bleeds through it sets right into the fibers.


----------



## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

Thanks Weldbond ? is that something i can buy local ?
like this | Canadian Tire


----------



## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

copperhead said:


> Thanks Weldbond ? is that something i can buy local ?
> like this | Canadian Tire


Yeah, that's it. I get it from Rona. A smaller bottle like you pictured is around 8 bucks. Then, if it works for you, buy the big jug and use it to refill the small bottle.

I first used this on cabs about 2 years ago, and they have all been fine since. The stuff goes on white but dries clear, so if any leaks out of the seams it doesn't show.

You need a big load of clamps -- the squeeze kind sold in mesh bags will do -- and some wood strips to hold the tweed or tolex in place while the glue sets. I do part of the cab, wait about 1/2 hour, then remove the clamps and do the next part. I always have something else on the go -- fitting grille cloth, soldering the wiring harness, etc -- to fill up the waiting time.


----------



## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

It sucks because all the best adhesives for applying tolex/tweed are only sold in the US. 
Formica 160
Hybond 30
Wilsonart H2O <- This one gets my vote.

Or, "Tolex/Amp Glue", which is essentially just a private label version of one of the above with a jacked up price tag.


----------



## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

PTWamps said:


> Yeah, that's it. I get it from Rona. A smaller bottle like you pictured is around 8 bucks. Then, if it works for you, buy the big jug and use it to refill the small bottle.
> 
> I first used this on cabs about 2 years ago, and they have all been fine since. The stuff goes on white but dries clear, so if any leaks out of the seams it doesn't show.
> 
> You need a big load of clamps -- the squeeze kind sold in mesh bags will do -- and some wood strips to hold the tweed or tolex in place while the glue sets. I do part of the cab, wait about 1/2 hour, then remove the clamps and do the next part. I always have something else on the go -- fitting grille cloth, soldering the wiring harness, etc -- to fill up the waiting time.


That sucks. Seriously consider using another adhesive such as the ones jbeals suggested, no clamping. I use the tolex glue I source from CE, probably one of the ones mentioned and I did buy a pail of "Flexweld" several years ago from Rona but have not been able to find it since.


----------



## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

It may suck for you, WC, but it works for me. 

Copperhead, good luck with your project. Once the sniping starts on a thread I am over and out. Cheers.


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Most people I know use 3m spray adhesive for Tolex (the automotive version is very strong and easy to get at Crappy Tire, but Home Despot etc carry the general purpose version at least).

I've only done 2 cabs in Tolex (fixes/patches don't count) - the rest of the time I use some sort of robust fabric (usually something canvas-like - whatever looks cool and is cheap at the fabric shops in the fashion district). With fabric (including Tweed) Weldbond or even your favorite wood glue is plenty fine (except with some synthetic fiber based coverings). You can thin it a tad with water to make it easier to brush on without being too thick a layer. You don't have to use the same process as PTWamps does - he's methodical, thorough and patient, which certainly produces good results, but the rest of us ain't got time for that. I just start with a bit of glue painted on, staple down one end of the covering (temprary, just 2-3 staples to be removed later; leave about an inch or 2 of material above the staples, unglued), pull it tight as I wrap around the cab painting on the glue in sections as I go, and then either staple or clamp the other end just before it meets the start. Once that all dries, you can remove the clamp/staples and deal with the seam.

The best cab covering (durability and application-wise; not the prettiest necessarily) is spray on truck bed liner. The pro stuff you have to load into a spray rig is far superior to the rattle can stuff (which doesn't cover much). It comes out a lot like 80s Peavey amps but not quite as jagged/bumpy due to having less and smaller aggregate particles in it (the rattle can even less so). Always been curious as to what it actually was that Peavey used in that period.


----------



## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

I've tried Super 77, Super 90, and Lepage Heavy Duty sprays. Wouldn't bother trying any of them again myself, but to each their own.

First decent completed cab I ever built, I used Weldbond. It was fine everywhere except the edges/seams. Serious pain to get it to stay down reliably.

Second cab, I used Weldbond for the majority and superglue gel on the edges/seams. Beautifully finished and still holding up today (as far as I know).

Third cab, I used Lepage contact cement (blue label). It was a miracle to work with. Instant perfect bonding everywhere. However, even though I haven't heard of any issues with that cab, I've heard rumours that the tolex starts peeling off after a while because it reacts with the contact cement. Rumours that are backed up with some legitimate science, so I figured it best to move on.

For the next several cabs I used Lepage water based contact cement (green label). Kind of in between to work with, but I never had any problems. Bonds well, stays bonded. Just not as easy and quick as using the real stuff. Also, you need to be careful about expiry dates and whether or not it was shipped during winter.

I have used much better adhesives (like the ones listed above) and I would never go back. As easy to work with as the real contact cement, but healthier fumes and won't react with the vinyl. One I forgot to mention was Simalfa. They make completely green adhesives that bond nearly as well as CC. However, you have to get a minimum of 5 gallons at a time (industrial supply only). Plus it is ideal to use a sprayer rather than brush on.

I really wish Canada had better options that were easier to find. You can find some of the stuff listed above on rare occasion, but it requires a lot of effort calling a bunch of flooring suppliers, etc.

This is the phone number for the Canadian distributor for Wilsonart: 905-565-1255

I've special ordered it direct from them before. I don't think you need a commercial account or anything to do the same.


----------



## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I just checked the Richelieu website. They are a Wilsonart dealer, but they don't carry any of the Wilsonart contact adhesives at all. They have a product called "Lion Grip" that's pretty much a spray contact cement used for counter top laminates. I've never tried it on tolex. I use green/blue "no stink" contact cement. Always sticks and no problems yet with it degrading the vinyl tolex.


----------



## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

PTWamps said:


> It may suck for you, WC, but it works for me.
> 
> Copperhead, good luck with your project. Once the sniping starts on a thread I am over and out. Cheers.


No sniping intended. You're learning, that's cool. I've done scores of cabs over the years and know a few tricks. Just trying to help if you're interested.


----------



## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I've wondered about this product, but I've never tried it. It's water based so shipping is not an option during winter.

Tolex Glue - Brush-on Adhesive


----------



## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

The weldbond worked well 
When it comes to amp building .Who like the covering part the best ? not me . but i don't hate it .
The tweed is all done ,though i might do another couple coats of lacquer with some orange tint & I'm still waiting for a handle .


----------



## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

Lincoln said:


> I've wondered about this product, but I've never tried it. It's water based so shipping is not an option during winter.
> 
> Tolex Glue - Brush-on Adhesive


I've never used anything else. Only one cab gave me grief with the tolex lifting a year or so later, still a complete mystery to me. The tolex came off easily (of course) but the glue had to be rubbed off the cab by hand! Sanding only balls it up rendering the paper useless.

This video is pretty much how it goes after the glue is brushed on and dries for about 20 minutes. The drying takes longer than the application.


----------



## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

WCGill said:


>


Great video! Anyone notice the adhesive he's using?


----------



## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

WCGill said:


> No sniping intended. You're learning, that's cool. I've done scores of cabs over the years and know a few tricks. Just trying to help if you're interested.


Thanks, WC. I'll add a jug of that tolex glue to my next US order.... curious to try it.


----------

