# New Furnace



## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Well, my old furnace (and I do mean old) is failing. I've had to give it a "Fonzie" almost every day for the past week to get it to kick in. It has to be 50 or more years old. It says "Robert and Gordon" on it.

I just had a repairman give it a little TLC that should hold it together until next week, when they will install a new Trane high efficiency unit.

I guess we've limped along with this old thing for enough years.

I know it will take quite a while to recoup the cost in gas and electricity savings, but I'll also have peace of mind (one less thing to worry about).

I'd say I've been pumping dollars out the chimney for long enough.


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## tdotrob (Feb 24, 2019)

Probably 70 cents on every dollar going up the chimney at that age.

Was trane your only option?


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

tdotrob said:


> Probably 70 cents on every dollar going up the chimney at that age.
> 
> Was trane your only option?


No, Trane was my choice based on ratings and reviews.

Yes, I probably was lucky if I was actually using half the gas I was buying.

Plus the electricity.


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

I replaced my almost 40 year old furnace 10 years ago with a high efficiency Trane furnace. I have had absolutely no issues and am satisfied with Trane. Supposedly these newer furnaces only last for 10 years and you're supposed to replace them but hopefully I can get it to last another 5 or 6 years and I'll replace it right before I retire.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

We put in a new Lennox furnace 6 years ago and it quit on us twice, fixed under warranty. The 2nd repair replaced the entire circuit board and motor. This Jan it was making funny noises and the exhaust gas blower was dying so it got replaced. I'm not sure what'll happen when the 10 year warranty is up. But this was a 2nd from the top model furnace.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

guitarman2 said:


> I replaced my almost 40 year old furnace 10 years ago with a high efficiency Trane furnace. I have had absolutely no issues and am satisfied with Trane. Supposedly these newer furnaces only last for 10 years and you're supposed to replace them but hopefully I can get it to last another 5 or 6 years and I'll replace it right before I retire.



Well I'm hoping to get twenty years out of this. It's guaranteed for ten and lifetime on the SST heat exchanger.

Plus they're putting in a humidifier at the same time (got to keep them guitars moist).

The old furnace is pretty huge compared to the new ones so we'll also gain a little space in the basement.

We've replaced all the windows and doors already and had the roof rebuilt last spring.

The place has been pretty cozy and warm but the old furnace is on its last legs.

I was hoping to limp through this season, but there are a few more weeks of chilly weather and I'm not inclined to wake up and freeze my ass off in my own home.

It's time.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

tomee2 said:


> We put in a new Lennox furnace 6 years ago and it quit on us twice, fixed under warranty. The 2nd repair replaced the entire circuit board and motor. This Jan it was making funny noises and the exhaust gas blower was dying so it got replaced. I'm not sure what'll happen when the 10 year warranty is up. But this was a 2nd from the top model furnace.


Sorry to hear that. I hope I have better luck. The old one has never let us down. I've had the squirrel cage and the gas valve replaced over the years, but that was a few hundred dollars all told.


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

Replaced the 40 year old boiler a couple of years ago. Much quieter, and the pilot isn't on all the time. I'm sure the computer will be the first thing to go, but so far so good. We appear to be saving money on heating, though the boiler will take a long while to pay for itself.


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## Moosehead (Jan 6, 2011)

Im an hvac tech and you will notice the (significant) savings on your gas bill. Old furnace was probably 70% efficent, if that. New ones are 95-96%. I don't install Trane furnaces personally. They cost more and iirc they require licencing so only certain outfits can install them. All that raises the total cost after installation. I've heard they are good but i stick with Carrier products (Payne, bryant or keeprite), easy to get parts and your cost is likely half of that of a Trane.


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## ezcomes (Jul 28, 2008)

Had to do mine this past summer...AC and furnace both died same day...that hurt...


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

ezcomes said:


> Had to do mine this past summer...AC and furnace both died same day...that hurt...



Next for me will be to rewire the entire house. It's old and outdated (60 amp knob and button).

There's another $5K.


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## tdotrob (Feb 24, 2019)

It’s more important you believe in the installers more than the brand. We have a saying the most important day of your furnace life is the day it’s installed.

In reality, despite there being numerous brands there are really only a few manufacturers making all those brands aboveboard less manufacturing the parts.

Hopefully the took the time to survey the home and know how many btu you actually need and not just go off what the old furnace was.

Proper installation is key. 95% of issues are due to poor installation


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## PBGas (Jan 14, 2017)

These things are not made like they used to be! 
I installed a new one a couple of years back. I did a new AC unit as well as it went south the year after. 
I did notice quite a savings on my heating and cooling bill as they were much more efficient.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

Milkman said:


> Next for me will be to rewire the entire house. It's old and outdated (60 amp knob and button).
> 
> There's another $5K.


How do you get house insurance with an old 60 amp knob & tube service?? In Alberta, your house would be non-insurable.

In 2012, I doubled the size of my house (added a second story) upgraded the insulation to modern standards and installed a high efficiency furnace, replacing a furnace built in 1963.
My gas bills were cut in half. There is a savings to be had.

The relationship you have with your furnace provider is far more important than the furnace its self. The more efficient they make a furnace, the more can go wrong with it. And it will go wrong.
You need to know your furnace provider will always be there when you need him.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

My furnace is a fireplace. I find it simply does not break down and it really saves on the gas, mostly because it burns wood.


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

It looks like you guys are talking about gas furnaces. If anyone has oil, I can give you a tip to keep it running and save you some money. Just let me know and I'll post it.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

tdotrob said:


> It’s more important you believe in the installers more than the brand. We have a saying the most important day of your furnace life is the day it’s installed.
> 
> In reality, despite there being numerous brands there are really only a few manufacturers making all those brands aboveboard less manufacturing the parts.
> 
> ...


This is a well respected local company with a good reputation. Yes, they assessed the house and calculated on site. A two stage 60,000 BTU will be quite adequate. It’s a small brick home.


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## GuitarT (Nov 23, 2010)

Guitar101 said:


> It looks like you guys are talking about gas furnaces. If anyone has oil, I can give you a tip to keep it running and save you some money. Just let me know and I'll post it.


Where were you when I still had oil? 😉 Ditched my oil furnace 6 years ago. It was a 16 year old Lennox and never gave us a lick of grief but at the time of my TSSA inspection my chimney got condemned. Rather than sinking money into that we decided to go gas as our central air needed replacing anyway and we were getting regular grief from the insurance company over having an oil tank in our basement. My heating bill went from an average of $375/month with oil to an average of $95/month with gas. Plus my insurance went down. No regrets.


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## GuitarT (Nov 23, 2010)

Milkman said:


> Next for me will be to rewire the entire house. It's old and outdated (60 amp knob and button).
> 
> There's another $5K.


You're doing well if you can get all that done for $5k.


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## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

I have a 8 year old high efficiency furnace that has caused me nothing but grief! My buddy is the local plumbing and heating guy which is a bonus. What ever you install don’t buy a Payne, piece of shitte!


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

York here, doesn't get stellar reviews but it's what the developer uses in his houses. 97.7% efficient, upgrade from the standard install and I did buy the extended warranty. After reading these posts I'm thinking it was wise. I really wanted a heat pump but when you get too far out of the wheelhouse, the soaking is enormous.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

GuitarT said:


> You're doing well if you can get all that done for $5k.



You're right.

I know a guy.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

This is the Trane model I’m getting (S9V2).

Should be in place next week.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

My last house I changed over from a forced air 1960's era gas furnace to a double purpose hot water tank and went hydronic radiant heat. 

We went from freezing to death In Saskatoon for 380 a month or so to being blissfully warm for about 80 dollars a month. Now I cannot get gas so I burn wood, but anywhere I can, I will do radiant heat.


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## tdotrob (Feb 24, 2019)

Milkman said:


> This is a well respected local company with a good reputation. Yes, they assessed the house and calculated on site. A two stage 60,000 BTU will be quite adequate. It’s a small brick home.


Awesome! Good to hear.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

We have already replaced all the windows and doors with modern stuff so the old place has been pretty comfortable this winter, but the furnace is .....old and well past its’ prime.

Frankly, it's probably a bit dangerous. Any furnace you can start up with a slap on the ass is just not right.


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## Paul M (Mar 27, 2015)

Milkman said:


> Any furnace you can start up with a slap on the ass is just not right.


In most houses that is called foreplay.


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## Moosehead (Jan 6, 2011)

A lttle FYI about that 10 year warranty for you folks. 

Make sure the company installing the furnace registers the warranty!  
You can do it yourself as well. Just enter the model and serial # on the manufacturer website

All modern furnaces have parts that may fail well before that 10 yr period. Registering the warranty gets you the full 10 years AND pays the company for the repair. Without registering you get only 5 years of warranty.


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## Rollin Hand (Jul 12, 2012)

You will notice a difference on your heating bill. Our old house had a mid-efficiency furnace. When we moved to a place that is effectively twice the size, but with a high efficiency furnace, our gas bill didn't change. And that's with 40-year-old windows in the new place.


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## Powdered Toast Man (Apr 6, 2006)

Our house was built in '53 and when we got it in 07 it had the original furnace still here. When shopping for a new furnace the one sales rep told me, "Your old one will probably still run even when I'm cold and dead in the ground. It'll run forever if you want it to. The question is: How much is it going to cost you to keep it running?" He was absolutely right. I installed a high efficiency Carrier system. Our gas/electric bill dropped by 50% overnight. It was costing me a fortune just to run that old furnace.

You'll LOVE your new furnace. I'm not even kidding when I say it will change your house entirely. The best thing about the new ones is the multi-stage fan. You just let the fan run on low 100% of the time. It circulates the air and the furnace just kicks in with heat when it needs to. It'll almost never kick into high gear unless you've got radical temp swings programmed in. Having the fan running all the time is almost inaudible on low and it completely eliminates those cold spots around the house and that chilly feeling between furnace cycles (because air is always moving).


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Powdered Toast Man said:


> Our house was built in '53 and when we got it in 07 it had the original furnace still here. When shopping for a new furnace the one sales rep told me, "Your old one will probably still run even when I'm cold and dead in the ground. It'll run forever if you want it to. The question is: How much is it going to cost you to keep it running?" He was absolutely right. I installed a high efficiency Carrier system. Our gas/electric bill dropped by 50% overnight. It was costing me a fortune just to run that old furnace.
> 
> You'll LOVE your new furnace. I'm not even kidding when I say it will change your house entirely. The best thing about the new ones is the multi-stage fan. You just let the fan run on low 100% of the time. It circulates the air and the furnace just kicks in with heat when it needs to. It'll almost never kick into high gear unless you've got radical temp swings programmed in. Having the fan running all the time is almost inaudible on low and it completely eliminates those cold spots around the house and that chilly feeling between furnace cycles (because air is always moving).


I'm actually curious as to the age of my present furnace. It has to be from the 50s. You _can _keep them running. There are only a few basic components which can all be changed, other than some of the metal paneling and framing. I suppose if the burner completely disolved that would be hard to replace at this point.

The gas bills have been getting better with all the new windows and doors, but really it's the reliability I want, not having to worry about waking up in a freezing cold house, or at least, having recourse other than throwing cash at it (warranty).

I didn't plan on doing it just now, but I figured I would before the next winter.


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## Powdered Toast Man (Apr 6, 2006)

Milkman said:


> I'm actually curious as to the age of my present furnace. It has to be from the 50s. You _can _keep them running. There are only a few basic components which can all be changed, other than some of the metal paneling and framing. I suppose if the burner completely disolved that would be hard to replace at this point.
> 
> The gas bills have been getting better with all the new windows and doors, but really it's the reliability I want, not having to worry about waking up in a freezing cold house, or at least, having recourse other than throwing cash at it (warranty).
> 
> I didn't plan on doing it just now, but I figured I would before the next winter.


You are going to notice a huge change. Even in the relative humidity in the house. Older furnaces draw their air to feed the burner from inside the house which basically burns off a lot of the indoor humidity. Makes it very dry in winter. The high efficiency furnaces draw their combustion air from outside. So none of the humidity is being burned off. You may notice some condensation on your windows going forward. This is normal. 

The new units also use a DC motor whereas your existing furnace no doubt is using AC current to run the fan motor. It's not just less gas, the new units use way less power too. That's why you can run the fan 24/7 and it'll still use way less power than your old furnace.


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## tdotrob (Feb 24, 2019)

Here is an old Upright Bros furnace built here in Edmonton in 1969.

Replaced the belt driven motor in it but eventually the parts become obsolete or Hard to match up even though there are only a few basic components and they get retired.

The owner wanted to keep it going cause it’s cool. Guess he literally has money to burn.


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## CathodeRay (Jan 12, 2018)

@Milkman do you have a finished basement? If so, your furnace replacement is a fantastic opportunity to make the house even more comfortable and cheaper to heat and cool. We did one major intake vent modification when ours was replaced, and it probably cut down our cooling by 40- 50%. I can post pics.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

CathodeRay said:


> @Milkman do you have a finished basement? If so, your furnace replacement is a fantastic opportunity to make the house even more comfortable and cheaper to heat and cool. We did one major intake vent modification when ours was replaced, and it probably cut down our cooling by 40- 50%. I can post pics.


Yes, it's "finished" but could certainly benefit from a renovation. That's another job for another day. I still need to rewire the house.


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## nonreverb (Sep 19, 2006)

Moosehead said:


> Im an hvac tech and you will notice the (significant) savings on your gas bill. Old furnace was probably 70% efficent, if that. New ones are 95-96%. I don't install Trane furnaces personally. They cost more and iirc they require licencing so only certain outfits can install them. All that raises the total cost after installation. I've heard they are good but i stick with Carrier products (Payne, bryant or keeprite), easy to get parts and your cost is likely half of that of a Trane.


We had a Keeprite installed over 10 years ago and has never given us any problems. Great product.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

They're coming over shortly to measure up the duct work which they will pre-fabricate at their shop. Installation will likely be next week.


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## Powdered Toast Man (Apr 6, 2006)

My original furnace was the size of a small car. They had to break it up into pieces to remove it. New furnace is the size of a medium filing cabinet.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Powdered Toast Man said:


> My original furnace was the size of a small car. They had to break it up into pieces to remove it. New furnace is the size of a medium filing cabinet.


That's definitely another plus.


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## CathodeRay (Jan 12, 2018)

Milkman said:


> Yes, it's "finished" but could certainly benefit from a renovation. That's another job for another day. I still need to rewire the house.


No, I meant if it's a finished basement, you could consider an intake vent modification that will save you a lot in energy bills when the furnace goes in. 

Anyway, pm me if you want to see what mod we got done, it's made a huge difference.


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## CenturyBreak (Oct 28, 2017)

CathodeRay said:


> No, I meant if it's a finished basement, you could consider an intake vent modification that will save you a lot in energy bills when the furnace goes in.
> 
> Anyway, pm me if you want to see what mod we got done, it's made a huge difference.


I'd like to hear more about this!


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## DrumBob (Aug 17, 2014)

You'll save money and headaches in the long run by replacing it. We needed a new furnace about fifteen years ago.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

DrumBob said:


> You'll save money and headaches in the long run by replacing it. We needed a new furnace about fifteen years ago.


LOL, so did we. We've kept this old beast working long enough.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Well, today's the day. I suspect they may have deliberately chosen a day that's predicted to be warm here. If not, we just got lucky. Today it's going up to plus 18 C here and this old place does keep the heat very well.

It will be a noisy day, but we'll be very glad to have it all done and ready for next winter.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

18 my ass. It hit 21.

They're still here working. I hear it's going well.

When I have people working on the house, I like to leave them alone, offer them a cold drink and let them know they're welcome to use the washrooms, but I like to be available but invisible.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Well, it's in place and running. The house is warm and the installation looks great.

I have one concern (I've sent an e-mail to the company who installed it, awaiting their response).

The fan motor seems to be running constantly. It's set to Auto. The temperature seems stable (set to 23 deg C) and it's fairly quiet, but unless I haven't noticed, it has not stopped running since they turned it on (all night).

Auto seems like it should turn off once in a while. I understand they the fan in these things sometimes will run just to circulate fresh air, but non-stop?

Is this normal?


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Milkman said:


> The fan motor seems to be running constantly.


Most of those circulating fans have multiple-speeds. Did they leave any documentation for the furnace? I believe that some systems will operate at low-speed even after the call for heat has terminated. It will improve the air circulation and exchanges. I modified our system to operate on low continuously and have noticed an improvement in ambient temperatures from room to room. A bit more for electricity however, I believe that it is worth the comfort.


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## diyfabtone (Mar 9, 2016)

I keep my fan on all the time, keeps the temp more even for all floors and lets the Hepa filter keep pull allergens out of the air. Down side is the fan motor will wear out faster.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Paul Running said:


> Most of those circulating fans have multiple-speeds. Did they leave any documentation for the furnace? I believe that some systems will operate at low-speed even after the call for heat has terminated. It will improve the air circulation and exchanges. I modified our system to operate on low continuously and have noticed an improvement in ambient temperatures from room to room. A bit more for electricity however, I believe that it is worth the comfort.


I still have to pay the final bill so I'll have an opportunity to pick their brains.

Yes, they left the manuals.

I also understand the new fans are DC and will consume far less power anyway, but although the fan is very quiet (yes, multiple speeds) it's still there in the background sound-wise.

That bugs me a bit. The old one was noisy, but when it stopped, it was dead silent.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

diyfabtone said:


> I keep my fan on all the time, keeps the temp more even for all floors and lets the Hepa filter keep pull allergens out of the air. Down side is the fan motor will wear out faster.



I don't WANT to keep my fan on all the time.

It seems to be acting that way while set to "Auto".


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

We can set our fan (on the stat) to "Auto" or "Off". If set to "Off", the fan comes on only when the stat sense a need for hot or cold.
Maybe your stat is similar?


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

greco said:


> We can set our fan (on the stat) to "Auto" or "Off". If set to "Off", the fan comes on only when the stat sense a need for hot or cold.
> Maybe your stat is similar?


LOL, that would make sense.

No, the two fan modes on my new thermostat are "Auto" or "On".

It seems like it's operating in "On", but I have it set to "Auto".


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Milkman said:


> No, the two fan modes on my new thermostat are "Auto" or "On".


Frustrating...I wonder if your system/stat will actually allow for the fan motor to ever be completely "off"?


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

greco said:


> Frustrating...I wonder if your system/stat will actually allow for the fan motor to ever be completely "off"?


Well, if that's the way it's supposed to be, I'll have to accept and learn to live with it but it just seems like it should stop _once _in awhile. Makes me nervous.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)




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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I wonder if "system settings" is something that can be changed to allow the fan to be completely off when there is no demand for heating or cooling?
I'm sure you are wondering the exact same thing.











Good Luck with getting it sorted out.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Those young whipper-snappers seem to have a knack for figuring stuff out...is there one in your neighbourhood?


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

the fan motor on mine has been running since 2012, hasn't missed a beat yet. On a 2 story house, air flowing constantly is a good thing


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

Milkman said:


> View attachment 408534
> 
> View attachment 408535


We have the same thermostat, and at least you got a manual with it, unlike us. The contractor set the program and my wife wasn't a fan (sorry) so she tried to reset and no joy. I'm tempted to buy a replacement as I don't like this thing at all.


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## Doug Gifford (Jun 8, 2019)

Lincoln said:


> the fan motor on mine has been running since 2012, hasn't missed a beat yet. On a 2 story house, air flowing constantly is a good thing


As is silence. I quite understand Milkman's concern. Our furnace has on and auto -- on is just on and auto is on while the burner is on and for a minute or so after to suck out the rest of the heat and then it shuts off.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

Doug Gifford said:


> As is silence. I quite understand Milkman's concern. Our furnace has on and auto -- on is just on and auto is on while the burner is on and for a minute or so after to suck out the rest of the heat and then it shuts off.


what a constant fan does is stabilize the temperature from floor to floor on a two story home. Providing you have adequate cold air returns on your upper story.
I don't even notice mine running unless I'm sitting right beside a register. Single level home? Not needed, just filters the air.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Doug Gifford said:


> As is silence. I quite understand Milkman's concern. Our furnace has on and auto -- on is just on and auto is on while the burner is on and for a minute or so after to suck out the rest of the heat and then it shuts off.


That's exactly what SHOULD be happening, but it's obviously either wired wrong, programmed incorrectly, or the thermostat is unsuitable.

I feel like I have to turn the damned thing off. 

Silence between cycles is important to me.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Lincoln said:


> what a constant fan does is stabilize the temperature from floor to floor on a two story home. Providing you have adequate cold air returns on your upper story.
> I don't even notice mine running unless I'm sitting right beside a register. Single level home? Not needed, just filters the air.


I sit right beside a register in most rooms in my small house.

We heat the basement, the main floor and the attic (open concept front room).

I'll gladly sacrifice a little air circulation for silence. I don't like this at all.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I just turned the heat off and waited ten minutes. The fan continued to run even with the heat set to off and it wasn't even in a heat cycle when I did it.

Clearly something is wired or programmed wrong.

I had to throw the breaker to get the fan to stop.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

Milkman said:


> I just turned the heat off and waited ten minutes. The fan continued to run even with the heat set to off and it wasn't even in a heat cycle when I did it.
> 
> Clearly something is wired or programmed wrong.
> 
> I had to throw the breaker to get the fan to stop.


That's how they are set up these days for efficiency. 
Call your installer, tell him what you want. I'm sure he can make it happen.


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## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

I noticed recently that when I turn on my hood fan, the furnace fan kicks in, and I assume the induction fan to draw air from outside. We also have a full house fan switch that runs the furnace fan full time to circulate air and also turns on the ceiling exhaust fan in the central bathroom upstairs. We don’t have central air, so this works well in the summer to knock the temperature down a few degrees. Furnaces do more than just turn on and off these days.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Have a look at what those new versions of Smart thermostats have to offer. I believe that there is still a $75 rebate for them.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

Sneaky said:


> I noticed recently that when I turn on my hood fan, the furnace fan kicks in, and I assume the induction fan to draw air from outside. We also have a full house fan switch that runs the furnace fan full time to circulate air and also turns on the ceiling exhaust fan in the central bathroom upstairs. We don’t have central air, so this works well in the summer to knock the temperature down a few degrees. Furnaces do more than just turn on and off these days.


Yes, your bathroom fan should also start the furnace fan running for the same reason. It's part of the building code these days.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I'm pleased to report that I'm not crazy.

The owner of the mechanical service I hired came and had a look. He quickly informed me that his guys had wired something backwards. It wasn't dangerous but he has the furnace working correctly now.

All is well.


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## Paul M (Mar 27, 2015)

Milkman said:


> I'm pleased to report that I'm not crazy.
> 
> The owner of the mechanical service I hired came and had a look. He quickly informed me that his guys had wired something backwards. It wasn't dangerous but he has the furnace working correctly now.
> 
> All is well.


I'm not sure this is evidence enough to establish a confirmation, vis a vis your craziness. We'd have to see the contract you signed with the HVAC supplier, just to see if there is a sanity clause.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)




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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Running beautifully now.


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## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

Lincoln said:


> Yes, your bathroom fan should also start the furnace fan running for the same reason. It's part of the building code these days.


The weird thing is that I put in the hood fan myself, and it is not connected in any way to the furnace. I assume I have a pressure sensor somewhere.


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## Moosehead (Jan 6, 2011)

Sorry I missed this. The low voltage wiring got mixed up. Looks like you got a new t-stat too so it's possible the guy that wired the t-stat wasnt the guy that wired the furnace and they mixed up a wire. 

Sounds like you're good now. Installers should've caught that when they ran the furnace through a heat cycle after installation.


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## 2manyGuitars (Jul 6, 2009)

ezcomes said:


> Had to do mine this past summer...AC and furnace both died same day...that hurt...


Where do you live that you were running both your furnace and AC on the same day?


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

2manyGuitars said:


> Where do you live that you were running both your furnace and AC on the same day?


Heck he could live right here in Brantford.

When it goes down to 5 or 6 deg C over night and then hits 25~28 with high humidity that day, that's quite a swing.

It doesn't happen often, but I seem to remember a few days like that.

Anyway, central AC relies on elements of the furnace to operate. If the blower motor goes.....


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## 2manyGuitars (Jul 6, 2009)

I’m due for new furnace and AC. Was supposed to schedule the install for this week but then the storm hit. My buddy does mostly commercial HVAC so he’s probably busy replacing roof units right now.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

2manyGuitars said:


> I’m due for new furnace and AC. Was supposed to schedule the install for this week but then the storm hit. My buddy does mostly commercial HVAC so he’s probably busy replacing roof units right now.


Really we only have a week or two in any given year where we actually _need _AC. Now that we have a new furnace we can add that if we choose, but most times a fan and some open windows seem to suffice. It's not a big house, but it's double brick and seems to be well insulated. We've replaced all the windows and doors and rebuilt the roof so it holds the temperature well.

One thing I'll say is that we watched another roofer re-do the roofs in a cul de sac across the street and these houses were less than ten years old. As they were stripping them we could clearly see that there was neither a drip edge / ice dam OR even a membrane, just shingles over bare OSB. I'll wager those home owners ALL had leaky roofs.

I paid a reasonable price but found my roofer as a referral from my buddy the contractor (also an avid supporter of Amandacaster guitars). The guy really did a top notch job compared to that garbage.


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## ezcomes (Jul 28, 2008)

2manyGuitars said:


> Where do you live that you were running both your furnace and AC on the same day?


Unfortunately, my furnace system is old enough that the furnace fan is needed for the ac to cool the whole house, not just the area where the pipes come in...its all i could afford this time too

Radiant Geothermal would be nice, but can't afford something like that for a lot this size


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Can confirm multiple annual days when both heat an AC are run, spring and fall here.


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