# Can any of our members (preferably GTA) upgrade switches on a L6 DL4?



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

My bandmate wants to replace the switches on his DL4. He also doesn't want to ship to the US for work (makes sense). Located in Toronto. I figure he probably wants this done before June.

Are any of our great community able to do this? I know the chassis will also require drilling as the replacement switches are a larger diameter.

Thanks!


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Just to clarify..
He has purchased the switches...Correct?


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

@greco He does not have the parts yet. He's been holding off until he finds someone to do the work.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I looked at pics in Google "images". These might not be a typical switch. How does he know that the chassis will need drilling?


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

I'm guessing he's done reading from other people who've done that mod. Or he got the measurements haha.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

If they are all momentary switches, then the wiring is no big whoop. But as you probably rightly note, the internal space may only accommodate proprietary L6 switches. I don't know that this is or isn't the case, but it is worth taking into account.

However, if they are all simply normally-off momentary switches, then popping one or two holes in the chassis and running a cable to a remote switch-pad is a pretty trivial matter. So the DL4 itself could sit at the rear of a pedalboard, with the stompswitches handy in the front.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

The board is already pretty full, and I don't think he's looking to expand the size when he gets a new one built. 

Stock DL4:










Modded DL4:










From Reverb:

"Instead of getting a replacement switch from Line 6, you're better off swapping out all of the switches for self-contained momentary switches to ensure accurate and (more importantly) quiet footswitching."


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

So he wants to mod the DL4...now I get it. This is getting interesting. Any references as to the mod he wants done?


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Just upgrade the switches so it is far less likely to die, let alone mid set.


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)




----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Easy to do but for some reason not for everyone. I've fixed mods people have attempted, abandoned and sold cheap to me on Kijiji.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

I know he's fixed his before, but if he has to route the holes I don't think he has those tools anyway. Going to someone more reliable makes sense haha.


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

You shouldn't have to enlarge the holes, straight swap I believe.

edit- the guide pins have to come out


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Maybe it's a particular brand and model he's looking at.

@greco would you be able to do this?


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I'm looking at a bag of those switches right now, and the video was very helpful in scouting out what needs to be done. If you're passing through town, I can do it, although Dave is probably a handier distance away for you.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

I'm guessing Dave is willing to do it, but he hasn't said so outright haha. If anything it may be a case of paying Mark for the switches and postage to Dave, bringing it to Dave and paying him for the work, then returning the pedal.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I'm not trying to weasel out of anything but you _could_ get the switches yourself: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/spst-momentary-soft-touch-push-button-stomp-foots-pedal-switch.html


----------



## davetcan (Feb 27, 2006)

Cool video, was that some kind of solder sucker he was using?


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I have been away from the computer all afternoon. Let me watch the video and then I can respond.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Mark, thanks for the link! Dave, sounds good!


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

This switch is on the Mammoth site and looks to be "low profile" .... I'm wondering if it is essential to use a low profile switch? The fellow doing the video is from Mammoth and mentioned low profile. 
Mammoth will be more expensive than Mark's supplier.











This is the other switch on the Mammoth site:









This is Mark's switch...looks identical









I will consider doing this if we are confident about the switches.
I might curse having to remove the existing switches with a "standard" solder sucker ..LOL

Cheers

Dave


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

I've used regular switches, not low profile, it works out.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

I think he'd be looking for reliable and cost effective without cheaping out.


----------



## davetcan (Feb 27, 2006)

greco said:


> I will consider doing this if we are confident about the switches.
> I might curse having to remove the existing switches with a "standard" solder sucker ..LOL
> 
> Cheers
> ...


About the only part of the job that could be a real PITA.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

vadsy said:


> You shouldn't have to enlarge the holes, straight swap I believe.
> 
> edit- *the guide pins have to come out*


Maybe that is what "enlarging the holes" amounted to and he didn't have any real details/information.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

vadsy said:


> I've used regular switches, not low profile, it works out.


I'm assuming that you mean for the exact same application on a Line 6 DL4?
Who supplied your switches?


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

I use the taller switches on the DL4 and I got them from Mammoth. I've also used them when building tap tempo units and modding Boss pedals for onboard tap. I ordered a dozen or something like that back in the day, have one left currently in my stock.

edit- If you're going to order supplies it's probably better to get the lower profile, mine have stuck out fairly tall and I try to adjust lower using the two nuts on the shaft. 

sorry, two nuts on the shaft just came out, oops, sorry again, lets get back to the topic at hand

imma 30 year old child still laughing at dick and fart jokes


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

vadsy said:


> I use the taller switches on the DL4 and I got them from Mammoth. I've also used them when building tap tempo units and modding Boss pedals for onboard tap. I ordered a dozen or something like that back in the day, have one left currently in my stock.
> 
> edit- If you're going to order supplies it's probably better to get the lower profile, mine have stuck out fairly tall and I try to adjust lower using the two nuts on the shaft.
> 
> ...


OK ...I'm not going to fart around and be called a dick for getting the wrong switches...you are concluding that the best approach is to order the low profile switches from Mammoth to avoid having to screw nuts on the shaft in a precise manner...Correct?

Jointly, we could write for Monty Python!!


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Correct


----------



## davetcan (Feb 27, 2006)

greco said:


> OK ...I'm not going to fart around and be called a dick for getting the wrong switches...you are concluding that the best approach is to order the low profile switches from Mammoth to avoid having to screw nuts on the shaft in a precise manner...Correct?
> 
> Jointly, we could write for Monty Python!!


I was going to say that would be my call but I thought I'd let you two work it out, LOL.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

greco said:


> OK ...I'm not going to fart around and be called a dick for getting the wrong switches...you are concluding that the best approach is to order the low profile switches from Mammoth to avoid having to screw nuts on the shaft in a precise manner...Correct?
> 
> Jointly, we could write for Monty Python!!





vadsy said:


> Correct


@vadsy...You know I was just having some fun with you....Correct?

I want to make sure that your most recent "Correct" is not because I offended you.


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Not at all. I was in a rush picking my kids up from one thing and running them somewhere else and I posted from my phone.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

The guide pins will fit the little notches in the retrofitted momentaries (visible in the second picture above). The problem is that they would force the momentaries to be oriented wrong. That is, if the litle guide dingleberries were nicely snuggled into the notch in the switch collet, the switch solder lugs would be pointing 90 degrees away from what we need them to do. So, the existing holes fit the switches, but we need to remove the little guide so thatwe have a choice of how we wish to orient the switches. You can snip it or file it.

What was not made clear to me is what sort of things can sit around the collet. The switches come with two hex nuts and a washer. Is there room for one hex nut inside and another outside the chassis? I don't know. You many need to experiment to see if the space between the underside of the top panel, and the PCB provides enough space to use two hex nuts and maye a locking washer to secure the switch.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

mhammer said:


> Is there room for one hex nut inside and another outside the chassis? I don't know. You many need to experiment to see if the space between the underside of the top panel, and the PCB provides enough space to use two hex nuts and maybe a locking washer to secure the switch.


@vadsy...Repeating Marks's question/comment above..... Can one use a lock washer and nut on the inside of the chassis/enclosure along with the nut on the outside when using the low profile switches? So far, you are the only one with first hand knowledge of this specific "switch swap project" here.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Thanks for all your help guys, looking forward to seeing this completed.


----------



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

It's been a long time but judging by this picture the switches are sitting pretty high. I don't believe the DL4 has much room inside, little room for adjustment. Go low profile, it will look better.










edit- you should have room inside for a nut but probably not much else


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

vadsy said:


> It's been a long time but judging by this picture the switches are sitting pretty high. I don't believe the DL4 has much room inside, little room for adjustment. Go low profile, it will look better.
> 
> edit- you should have room inside for a nut but probably not much else


@vadsy ..Many thanks for all of your help.

@Budda ... I'll PM you,


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Budda said:


> From Reverb:
> 
> "Instead of getting a replacement switch from Line 6, you're better off swapping out all of the switches for self-contained momentary switches to *ensure accurate and (more importantly) quiet footswitching.*"


@Budda..I just read this...DOH!!


----------

