# "hippy" neck reset



## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

I've got a '56 Harmony H1145 acoustic that I bought for $40 that needs a neck reset, but I don't want to spend much money on it, and I don't want to set up a steam injector and all that is necessary to do it the correct way. So I'm considering trying a hack reset.

I'll saw through the neck at the body, to about where the fretboard would be, (if it had one). Then drill through the heel and install a bolt through, with a strap knob at the heel to make it look reasonable. Once it's glued and tight again the wood removed by the saw is supposed to create enough of difference in neck angle to improve the guitar's playability.

It sounds drastic, real guitar builders probably think is a major mistake, and it won't help the value of the guitar any. But it doesn't have much anyway, and it should make it more playable. Anyone have experience with this sort of hack job? It sounds pretty easy, but I'm open to opinions about whether it's actually a reasonable plan, or if I should leave well enough alone.
Thanks, Eric B.


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## Guest (Jul 15, 2016)

Is the neck still straight_ ish_?
Is it the 'steel reinforced neck'?
Depending on how high the action is,
you may want to consider sanding down the bridge (not the saddle) instead.
I've done this on a coupla' cheap guits.


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

lol yeah it's "straightish", not steel reinforced, I sanded a millimeter or so off the bridge which improved the action a bit, but it's still pretty high. So I'm thinking it's a candidate for the hack job.


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## Guest (Jul 15, 2016)

Your method will work too.
I've done that as well.
Exactly how you described.
Thin slice, bolt through.
Start with one cut, check, then maybe another cut if necessary.
Keep us posted.


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

Thanks, I will. I see that it's generally recommended to use a dozuki type razor saw. Is that what you used for the cut, or something different? Any other gotcha's I might encounter? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Regards.


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## Guest (Jul 15, 2016)

I was lucky that the neck I worked on was secured to the body with two dowels.
Popped off pretty easily.
A dozuki is probably the best tool to use.
Have fun.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

another thing you could do-
simpler and less work.

seperate the back from the sides starting at the neck heel.
work to about the halfway point on either upper bout.
seperate the block that holds the neck from the back.

now you just clean up the old glue,
flex the neck until it sits at the right angle,
then glue and clamp the neck block and the back,
and the back to the sides.

you are just repositioning the neck block further down the back.
it only takes a small movement to do the trick.
there will be some overhang now at the back- you can just sand that away if you want.

seems pretty ghetto, but these guitars are put together with hide glue-
now its old and brittle so it comes apart easily.


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

Sounds like that would be better aesthetically, and less of a hack than sawing. The way this thing is glued and put together is seems more complicated than the hippy or Billy Bolt hack, but I may be misunderstanding what you suggest and will give it more thought. Thanks, this is exactly the sort of info I was looking for.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

well-
the neck is attached via dovetail to the neck block-
its just a square block that is then glued into place between the top and back, as well as the side.

theres no need to remove the fingerboard or to separate the block from the top or sides.

by removing the bond between the back of the guitar and the block,
you are able to just reglue the block at a better angle.
the top and sides will flex in slightly relative to the back-

your basically changing the overall geometry of the guitar to achieve better string angle.

all this said, ive never had any trouble popping the whole neck off these old harmonies.
then its a matter of simply shaving the heel and shimming-

but i think the quickest easiest way to a decent result is the heel slip i mention.

im not good at explaining things with words lol- hope its a help anyway.


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

lol or maybe I'm just not good at understanding. But I think I've got it this time. The flexing of the sides is what cleared it up for me. And yeah the old hide glue is pretty brittle and probably would release pretty easy. Helps indeed, thanks.


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

I went with Fraser's heel slip method, it's a bit less drastic than cutting through the neck and is pretty easy. I actually overdid it a little, and had to raise the bridge a bit lol. Slapped an adjustable floating bridge on and it works a charm. Much fun turning a useless but nice looking wall-hanging into playable guitar. Sounds and plays pretty good for a 60 year old cheapie. I'll try the hippy reset on some old beater in the future. Thanks laristotle and fraser for the advice.
Regards.


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## Guest (Jul 17, 2016)

Way to go!
You do realize that's it's mandatory to post pics now, hmm?


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

Thanks, I'll get some before/after pics up soon.


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## eric_b (Dec 6, 2008)

I've loaded a few pics on my server at: 1956 Harmony 1145 Before and After
The original floating bridge was glued, in the wrong position. The heel slip looks nasty, but made it playable again. I'll get it cosmetically better as time allows. Still needs new tuners, the machines that are on it in the pics are from a 1950 Harmony, and are going back to it.
So I'm off to the rodeo. Yeehaa!


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

looks good to me!
its worth noting how little of a change was necessary.
theres hardly any overhang.
glad it worked for you eric.


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