# Sticky neck - 1984 Norman B30 - advice please.



## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

Hi everyone.

Yes, I went through the few threads on the matter: how to take the "stickiness" off of the neck.
There is one specific thread on that, and it is also about a Norman (B20) guitar:








Neck re-finish - 1991 Norman B20 Folk


Neck re-finish - 1999 Norman B20 Folk You might remember I was having a 'sticky' problem with my old Norman acoustic. The finish had decayed from hard play wear and every time I played the guitar my hand would get annoyingly sticky. Well I tried a variety of cleaning options and none of them...




www.guitarscanada.com





The fellow stripped the neck entirely and used Danish oil to finish the job.
Seems like it worked for him.

Now, because this is a guitar that was gifted to me back in 1984, I'd hate to destroy it by doing something stupid.
Is there a way to "smoothen" the neck so that it can be slick and easy to play other than having to strip the finish? I suppose this is the way to go but I just want to find out "what else" can be done?
Wiping it before/after playing has little to no effect on the "gummy" feel.

Thanks for any recommendation(s).

JP


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Really high grit sandpaper, 1000 or more, use it lightly. Takes off barely any finish. Some people say steel wool, but I hate dealing with the debris it leaves behind.


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## CathodeRay (Jan 12, 2018)

Also do a search for 'scotchbrite' on the forum and you'll get more threads on fixing this issue.


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## silvertonebetty (Jan 4, 2015)

Wipe it down with lemon oil that’s what I do with my telecaster when the neck gets sticky


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

keto said:


> Really high grit sandpaper, 1000 or more, use it lightly. Takes off barely any finish. Some people say steel wool, but I hate dealing with the debris it leaves behind.





CathodeRay said:


> Also do a search for 'scotchbrite' on the forum and you'll get more threads on fixing this issue.


I'll try to find the Scotchbrite. I might as well get some sandpaper 1000 as well while I'm at it.
Thanks!


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

silvertonebetty said:


> Wipe it down with lemon oil that’s what I do with my telecaster when the neck gets sticky


Lemon oil ... maybe that would be the first thing to try ... Does it stay on a long time?


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Keep in mind, Scotchbrite is a much coarser rougher surface, and will remove much more material than a fine grit paper. FYI


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## Hendo (Jun 19, 2021)

I use a scotch brite like pad. Extremely high grit, takes virtually no finish off the guitar neck but creates a satin like feel and appearance. Your hand, with its accompanying oils and sweat, will occasionally buff the neck back to its original shine and stickiness, depending on how much you play. Then repeat. In my experience it’s the best way to take the stickiness off without having to remove any finish and the headaches that can be associated with that.


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

keto said:


> Keep in mind, Scotchbrite is a much coarser rougher surface, and will remove much more material than a fine grit paper. FYI





Hendo said:


> I use a scotch brite like pad. Extremely high grit, takes virtually no finish off the guitar neck but creates a satin like feel and appearance. Your hand, with its accompanying oils and sweat, will occasionally buff the neck back to its original shine and stickiness, depending on how much you play. Then repeat. In my experience it’s the best way to take the stickiness off without having to remove any finish and the headaches that can be associated with that.


If it is high (extremely) grit .... I suppose it will work. I would certainly not try to rub that neck with coarse grit!
Anyway, time to look for the stuff ... tomorrow.
Thanks !!


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## JBFairthorne (Oct 11, 2014)

silvertonebetty said:


> Wipe it down with lemon oil that’s what I do with my telecaster when the neck gets sticky


The lemon oil I use says specifically NOT to use it on finished surfaces. It can strip the finish. I use it on my rosewood boards but I’m very careful not to let it get on the back of the neck.


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

Seems like different people have way different views about solving the "sticky neck" syndrome!

Oil: yes and no
Sandpaper: yes and no
Scotchbrite : varies
Combination of sandpaper or scotchbrite followed with oil .... 
etc ...
I did a recommended search (finally) with "scotchbrite" and the results vary all over the place.

Getting very confusing.


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

JBFairthorne said:


> The lemon oil I use says specifically NOT to use it on finished surfaces. It can strip the finish. I use it on my rosewood boards but I’m very careful not to let it get on the back of the neck.


Thanks for that .... did another quick search: lemon oil not to be used on maple !
I think the back of that Norman neck could be maple .... I'll look it up but it could well be rosewood too? 
I never asked and never needed to until now!


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## JBFairthorne (Oct 11, 2014)

I THINK it’s fine on maple or any wood…as long as it’s unfinished. The issue isn’t how it reacts with wood but that it can strip many finishes. Your sources may be referring to maple fretboards which are often finished with some sort of lacquer. Take that with a grain of salt though.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

white scotchbrite, then finish with casey's gun stock wax. (from the guys that make Tru-Oil)


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## silvertonebetty (Jan 4, 2015)

JBFairthorne said:


> The lemon oil I use says specifically NOT to use it on finished surfaces. It can strip the finish. I use it on my rosewood boards but I’m very careful not to let it get on the back of the neck.


Well my tele is has no finish on the neck


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

The finish on those old Normans tends to get gummy over the years- a lot of Martins too.
You could easily go to town on it and start with a 320 grit, remove all the finish and then go up in grit to 400, 600, then steel wool, mesh pads after that until really smooth. Then you have the option of re-spraying with lacquer or tru-oil or whatever you want to try. You won't wreck anything so long as you just follow the grain and be patient.


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

zztomato said:


> The finish on those old Normans tends to get gummy over the years- a lot of Martins too.
> You could easily go to town on it and start with a 320 grit, remove all the finish and then go up in grit to 400, 600, then steel wool, mesh pads after that until really smooth. Then you have the option of re-spraying with lacquer or tru-oil or whatever you want to try. You won't wreck anything so long as you just follow the grain and be patient.


Thanks for the follow up.
I couldn't find tru-oil right away but did order some at the local store. Will be here next week.
(That's what happens in small towns). As for the grits ... no problem ... got all of that.
We'll see how it goes next week and I'll report back.

Cheers!


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

keto said:


> Really high grit sandpaper, 1000 or more, use it lightly. Takes off barely any finish. Some people say steel wool, but I hate dealing with the debris it leaves behind.


99% rubbing alcohol to finish up


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

Alan Small said:


> 99% rubbing alcohol to finish up


That, I didn't know.
How much? After the "gritting"? And then use the tru-oil?
Where do you get 99% rubbing alcohol? Drugstore?


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

JacquesP said:


> That, I didn't know.
> How much? After the "gritting"? And then use the tru-oil?
> Where do you get 99% rubbing alcohol? Drugstore?


5$ at shoppers
you cant use too much really..it cuts adhesives and grease and wax and dirt and then evaporates..i use clean cotton cloths or paper towel...


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

JacquesP said:


> Thanks for the follow up.
> I couldn't find tru-oil right away but did order some at the local store. Will be here next week.
> (That's what happens in small towns). As for the grits ... no problem ... got all of that.
> We'll see how it goes next week and I'll report back.
> ...


If you decide to do the tru-oil, you need to give it a few weeks to cure.


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## BGood (Feb 20, 2015)

I use this on all my guitar necks. There are different grits, get the softest you can find. Hardware store might have more choice than grocery store.








You don't need to apply much pressure and the nice thing contrary to sandpaper, is that Scotch Brite in the palm of your hand will follow the shape of the neck.
You want to shine it back later ? A little polishing compound will bring back the sheen.


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

I'm back ... found all the stuff needed to proceed.

Now I need to know what do you use to protect the fingerboard in the meantime?
Tape? Which type? 
We don't want to end up with sticky fingerboard and strings now, do we?


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## JacquesP (May 23, 2019)

zztomato said:


> If you decide to do the tru-oil, you need to give it a few weeks to cure.


How long before starting to use the guitar again? You say "weeks" ... that seems quite a long time.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Multiple coats, sanding between coats. I think I took a month.

You could use a poly wipe on floor finish.

Or better yet just use the fine sandpaper first. Don't strip and refinish if you don't have to.


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

JacquesP said:


> How long before starting to use the guitar again? You say "weeks" ... that seems quite a long time.


Probably 3 weeks from final coat. Summer humidity and heat will extend that time possibly. Basically when it feels smooth and not sticky.


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