# Strat Trem to Hardtail Bridge Conversion



## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

Surprisingly, there aren't many threads in this forum on this, maybe 2 or 3. I've Googled this w/ mixed results. It's usually the same brainless & lazy advise of locking back the trem and leave it at that, or install/craft a wood piece, etc.. All 3 of my trem equipped Strats have them locked back using one way or another. I don't want to do it with this next project. Resale value doesn't concern me.

I'm receiving delivery of a Silverburst Strat body soon similar to below. I'm getting this for next to nothing and it's a real US Strat body, so this is the one I want to use - lightweight too. Thing is, I've got hardtail bridges all over my lab, I must have 25 of them, many of them top-loading. The last thing I want to do is buy a new trem and lock it back just so I don't use the damn thing. One solution I saw on here was a chap who was trying to buy a Custom Shop DropTop bridge designed just for this, but they are no longer sold. Wondering if this will work. Maybe it's too simple and I'm missing something. I'm a bit of a guitar tech but no luthier.

Figuring to drill 2 extra holes (white circles) in a hardtail bridge since I can't use the rear 3. I don't mind filling in/re-drilling the existing end screw holes in the body to relocate them for the slightly wider hardtail since they'll be covered by the bridge - and it's easy to trim the pickguard to accommodate the extra 2.5mm. I've measured it and the scaling is correct; and the hardtail is just wide enough to cover up everything. I do understand the tension is towards the rear of the bridge, but I'm thinking there won't be enough flex to affect tuning/intonation w/ 4 screws clamping it down. Heck, my brother used a Tele for years w/ the bridge mounted w/ only 3 screws. I plan to use a high quality Gotoh Strat bridge similar to below, not those crappy pot-metal bridges. And I usually play in E-flat anyway, so less tension than normal.

Before I start drilling holes in a beautiful body (ahem), think this will work? I don't recall anyone ever trying or even discussing this, sounds too easy...maybe it is...?


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Where do the string ends go? 
If through the top of the bridge only, I think the string tension will pull the rear of the bridge up.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

It would probably be top load, which may or may not do what you indicate. Hard to tell w/ 4 screws. I mean, it's not a MACK truck pulling on them. 4 screws should be able to take the tension - I would think.

Another thought just occurred to me. Maybe use one (or more) of the rear screws on the bridge and an 'L' bracket to secure it to the rear. There's plenty of wood below the trem. It's just a matter of the rear screw holes lining up directly over the trem slot.

Jeez, if someone comes up w/ a hardtail bridge design that just bolts on for this, I'm sure they'd get good sales - I'd buy 4 of them outright. This isn't like engineering the Space Shuttle from scratch for chrissakes...


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

FatStrat2 said:


> Maybe use one (or more) of the rear screws on the bridge and an 'L' bracket to secure it to the rear.


This makes sense.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Just fill the hole where the floating trem was and then mount into it. It would not take a lot of skill to make a block of wood to fit the hole but precision is paramount. Then when the new bridge goes on it will cover it all anyway. Glue it in and be done with it. That is what I would do.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Made for Trilogy multi-tuning bridge but might do the trick.









603100 Adapter Stop Block For Strat Tremolo System TAB1 | Reverb Canada


Hipshot Tremolo Adapter Block for TMB3 Trilogy Strat®bridge. Wood adapter block required for filling existing tremolo routing. Intended for USA Strat® models, import models may require mods or sanding for correct fit. Made in the USA. Part # 603100




reverb.com


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

gtrguy said:


> 603100 Adapter Stop Block For Strat Tremolo System TAB1 | Reverb Canada
> 
> 
> Hipshot Tremolo Adapter Block for TMB3 Trilogy Strat®bridge. Wood adapter block required for filling existing tremolo routing. Intended for USA Strat® models, import models may require mods or sanding for correct fit. Made in the USA. Part # 603100
> ...


.... or just buy that thing. I would just buy that thing


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

Fill the entire space with epoxy...it can be clear or tinted or drop in coins or bullion or whatever jewels you have for clear view into the spring and claw cavity...it will not shrink and will give excellent energy transfer....no need to modify a hardtail bridge


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Brunz said:


> .... or just buy that thing. I would just buy that thing


Yup, that's it right there. Glue that in with epoxy and you can mount any hard tail bridge you like.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

tomee2 said:


> Yup, that's it right there. Glue that in with epoxy and you can mount any hard tail bridge you like.


To be honest, I would not buy that thing, I would make one..... but I like making things. I try not to buy much when I can avoid it. But the best Idea would just be to buy something milled to fit all exact like.

I do like Mr. Small's idea of epoxying the void though, that would work well too. I don't think I would do the whole chamber, that would be crazy, I would just do the hole then if you ever want to go back it would be as easy as routing out the epoxy and voila, what no one knows does not hurt you.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Alan Small said:


> Fill the entire space with epoxy...it can be clear or tinted or drop in coins or bullion or whatever jewels you have for clear view into the spring and claw cavity...it will not shrink and will give excellent energy transfer....no need to modify a hardtail bridge


I was thinking of that too, especially if someone has no wood tools to make a filler block. (Although that's not a problem either it seems...)

Theres a YouTube video of one of the epoxy table makers dropping a huge log onto a table to prove the epoxy is strong enough. The wood broke, and not at the wood/epoxy interface. Good epoxy is very strong.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

I actually want the trem chamber empty.

I believe there's enough guitar wood around that trem slot to quasi-engineer an aesthetic hardtail solution without filling in anything. I'll just have to try it myself w/ my various hardtails.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

FatStrat2 said:


> I actually want the trem chamber empty.


... You could have lead with that 

You could always weld a base plate on a hard tail, that would show em lol


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

^ Well, I sorta did - maybe it wasn't clear to some. Only difference is epoxy for wood.


FatStrat2 said:


> ...install/craft a wood piece, etc...


But yeah, maybe there's some welding involved. I have someone who can do that in a pinch, but I'm hoping it's more convenient than that.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

FatStrat2 said:


> ^ Well, I sorta did - maybe it wasn't clear to some. Only difference is epoxy for wood.
> 
> 
> But yeah, maybe there's some welding involved. I have someone who can do that in a pinch, but I'm hoping it's more convenient than that.


I had assumed you meant to block the trem with a wedge of wood, not fill the cavity. Sorry for the misdirection there. Sometimes the internet leaves things a little vague and we go about filling in our own details.

To be perfectly honest, I cannot see the strings ripping that thing off with 4 screws holding it down. Screws are intense. The only problem is that if it did let go, it would anihalate the body and that would be bad voodoo.

If you weren't opposed to the idea of adding beyond the bridge, you could just use 3 bolts to attach a metal piece with holes drilled into it, then extend it beyond the plate and screw into the body. The only draw back of this is it would be permanent holes in the body that would not be going away any time soon. 

If you did have access to a welder, it would be easy to fab up a hook that sits where the trem springs go and counter balance the force of the strings, then there would not be any screws added that would ever be visable.

Now I want to get my welder out and see if I can convert mine into a hard tail without altering it


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

^ Nice, thanks a lot. Good post. Gives me something to think about. Similar to my 'L' bracket idea.

I've always been good at fixing stuff, but only so-so at fabbing. And I wanna get this right as it's not a $5 guitar body.


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## Rollin Hand (Jul 12, 2012)

Why do you want it to be a hardtail? Wouldn't decking a vibrato bridge with 5 springs screwed tight accomplish the same thing?


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

I believe that the plate will resonant without securing the rear and because it's softwood, you will not be able to apply the required pressure to the front mounting screws to reduce resonance.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

^ A distinct possibility, I agree. That's one of the reasons I thought of the 'L' bracket to secure the rear. I have to try it. This isn't rocket science, it has to work. Waiting on the body, might be a couple of weeks w/ Canada Post being tardy. lately.


Rollin Hand said:


> Why do you want it to be a hardtail? Wouldn't decking a vibrato bridge with 5 springs screwed tight accomplish the same thing?


As I posted, I don't want to buy a new trem and install it only to not use it when I have plenty of hardtails laying about the place.


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## Rollin Hand (Jul 12, 2012)

FatStrat2 said:


> ^ A distinct possibility, I agree. That's one of the reasons I thought of the 'L' bracket to secure the rear. I have to try it. This isn't rocket science, it has to work. Waiting on the body, might be a couple of weeks w/ Canada Post being tardy. lately.
> As I posted, I don't want to buy a new trem and install it only to not use it when I have plenty of hardtails laying about the place.


Fair enough.

Depending on where the rear screws (away from the pickups) line up, a piece of wood glued/screwed into the trem route should provide enough structure to attach some wood screws.

Alternately, screwing a block of metal back there could allow for drilling and tapping holes for machine screws to hold the bridge anchored to the metal on one side. Or just holes so that the screws could be screwed into nuts on the other side of the metal block.

I have to admit I am more in favour of the metal idea, because 🤘.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Could put a 2-Tek on it (or fabricate something similar that screws into the trem cover holes)


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Epoxy the void. Color/tint the epoxy black


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## JBFairthorne (Oct 11, 2014)

You said this is a high quality body right? Why not trade for or buy a standard trem bridge and save the experimentation for a lower quality body down the road. Maybe at least try a “willing to trade for” ad here before committing yourself?


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

^ Yes, I thought of that - and it's a fair comment.

I've put together a bunch of guitars lately and they're just like I want them - don't want to pull them apart or wait for another.

Did some more measuring this morning and it looks good that the rear screw holes on the hardtail bridge will be overtop the trem slot. Already thinking of finding (or fabbing) some sort of slotted 'L' bracket instead of holed, so I can slide the bracket around to make small adjustments. It might not look pretty, but as long as it's solid, hidden & intonates well, I don't care what it looks like under the hood.

I have a feeling Brunz is correct: hardtail bridges are dense and screws are intense (I'll write music to those lyrics later). Cross fingers I may not need anything else but those 4 screws. And if that's the case, I would wonder for a long time why no one else thought of this.


knight_yyz said:


> Epoxy the void. Color/tint the epoxy black


I want the trem cavity empty. The more I build guitars, the more I believe that a chambered feel resonates nicely and contributes to my playing. I remember in an interview many years back, Clapton mentioned the same thing about hardtails. That's one of the reasons I gravitate towards trem bodies instead of hardtail bodies. If this works, I may do it to my other trem Strats too.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

I think the 'L' bracket idea will work on the original trem bridge and it would be completely reversible with no external mauling of the finish. Looks like just need to remove the block, springs and spring support bracket and use the block screws for the 'L' bracket. The string-thru holes in the bridge are small enough to block the string bullets from passing through. Then ground the 'L' bracket.

I'll have to try it and see. It's probably too good to be true, otherwise I'm certain others would have thought of it long ago 'cuz I ain't no engineer.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Please consider posting some pics of your progress when you start adding the bracket, etc.. 
Very interesting and unique thread.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

^ You bet, I will post - but only if it works! It's all speculation along with a little bit of measurement at this point.

It might be a couple weeks though, maybe a bit more. The new Strat body appears to be stuck in transit (like everything else lately). On top of that, by the time it gets here, I'll be out of town for a week or so.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

The rear hardtail screw holes go nicely over the trem cavity for use of an 'L' bracket. But I'd forgotten about the extended right side trem cavity gap in comparison to your average hardtail. I'm convinced it would work just w/ 4 screws on the hardtail front, but w/ that gap could end up looking a bit like a FrankenStrat. If this body wasn't pristine or it was a black finish, I'd consider that.

Instead, I'll use a 2 point trem once I get one and try my luck securing it w/ that 'L' bracket using the trem block screw holes on the bridge.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Well that just isn't fair!


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

I manged to pull it off. If I had a dime for every naysayer on this idea, I'd probably own a couple of McLarens. Didn't have to use any sort of epoxy or wood filling nor buy a trem assembly. It's easy to do as well, just need to measure precisely. Other than the bridge, it costs nothing and it doesn't add any weight. As Mark posted, screws are intense.

3 extra holes were drilled for a total of 5 (looks more aesthetically appealing than 4 and it's stronger). I could have used a larger hardtail to cover the trem routing. The larger bridge would also utilize the 3 rear screw holes. But I purposely chose this smaller Gotoh topmount hardtail bridge, I like it like this. I've always thought the more holes and routes in a body, the better it resonates (to a point). I've increased the contrast in the second pic to show the unused 3 screw holes to the rear of the bridge/trem route. Guitar weighs 6.5lbs, I've saved myself 1 pound in weight - that's a lot for play-ability.

Unfortunately, this is my last Partscaster build for a while - found this out too late. But I'll soon start surgery on my 4 trem equipped Strats to properly 'hardtail' them and shave off a pound so I can sell the trem assemblies.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Nothing wrong with that man!
Plus it's a hardtail.... ill take a hardtail and a hole over a trem any day. Plus, you can store things in there for later!


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

One of my most resonant guitars has a hardtail bridge over a trem hole like that. Sure it's not cosmetically perfect. But that hasn't stopped it from being very playable and sounding fine.


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