# Fender Neck Amber



## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

I have a future refinishing project in mind where I'll want the neck to match this colour that Reranch offers;

http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/fennecam.html 

I plan to use a clear satin poly finish. Since I can't get it from Reranch directly, has anyone found a similar product in Canada (or Toronto). 

Thanks in advance.


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Try Lee Valley. If you look at my body thread, it has a pretty intense tone of their Honeytone Amber. There was Ebony applied first to highlight the grain. A lighter application, without the ebony, should get you there.


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

Ill check out Lee Valley, thanks.


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Or keep it simple...true-oil with a bit of amber dye, and you're set


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Al...can you use the water based aniline dye for that?


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Jim DaddyO said:


> Al...can you use the water based aniline dye for that?


Jim...this is what i use on all my build. 
http://www.woodessence.com/dyesdefault.html

you can order the 23$ kit and it will last a long time. i did 10 necks with the amber small bottle and it's not empty yet.

WF3651.1 ColorFX Dye - 6 colors x 15ml Kit $23.00


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Cool! I've got the powdered water based aniline dye from Lee Valley and the tru-oil. Got some scraps to try it out too!


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Jim DaddyO said:


> Cool! I've got the powdered water based aniline dye from Lee Valley and the tru-oil. Got some scraps to try it out too!


trick is to put about a third of a bottle in a small cup...and about 6 to 8 drops of amber. mix it well and give it a first coat. let it dry all night. and see if the tint is to your liking. IMPORTANT thing to remember, use 0000 steel whole and rub the neck before each coats to remove any small bubbles or bumps. I usually do about 5 to 7 coats for a good finish. when it's done, you can get a full glossy finish or satin easily.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

fajah, if you have any trouble finding some, ive got a bottle of the stew mac vintage amber-
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishi...ains/ColorTone_Concentrated_Liquid_Stain.html
mixes with water, alcohol, lacquer, etc. does a good job


im willing to donate some.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

remembered this thread of my own- amber tint with cheap dollar store clothes die powder and tru-oil. still looks pretty good for dirt cheap.
http://guitarscanada.com/Board/showthread.php?t=7378&highlight=tru-oil


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

fraser said:


> fajah, if you have any trouble finding some, ive got a bottle of the stew mac vintage amber-
> http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishi...ains/ColorTone_Concentrated_Liquid_Stain.html
> mixes with water, alcohol, lacquer, etc. does a good job
> 
> ...


That would be great, thanks. I'll certainly contact you when the time comes.


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

fraser said:


> remembered this thread of my own- amber tint with cheap dollar store clothes die powder and tru-oil. still looks pretty good for dirt cheap.
> http://guitarscanada.com/Board/showthread.php?t=7378&highlight=tru-oil


I saw your thread when I initially did a search. Taking it one step further, this is an all maple neck and board which will be defretted and lines added. The original satin poly finish will be sanded off so that that the dye and/or stain can penetrate the wood evenly. Will the tru-oil/dye (Stew-Mac or other) application give me the satin finish I want? Will it also give the fretboard enough protection against string wear (using tape wound) being maple? The lined fretless I currently play has a rosewood fretboard finished with pure lemon oil and it's great but I've read that maple boards are treated differently than rosewood boards when it comes to finishing. 

Maybe I should be asking what the differences are between oil/dye vs. stain/satin poly finishes. Through some of my research, I've noticed that each individual likes a certain technique and combination of materials to achieve a desired finish. It seems even more complex when it comes to finishing bodies.


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Fajah said:


> I saw your thread when I initially did a search. Taking it one step further, this is an all maple neck and board which will be defretted and lines added. The original satin poly finish will be sanded off so that that the dye and/or stain can penetrate the wood evenly. Will the tru-oil/dye (Stew-Mac or other) application give me the satin finish I want? Will it also give the fretboard enough protection against string wear (using tape wound) being maple? The lined fretless I currently play has a rosewood fretboard finished with pure lemon oil and it's great but I've read that maple boards are treated differently than rosewood boards when it comes to finishing.
> 
> Maybe I should be asking what the differences are between oil/dye vs. stain/satin poly finishes. Through some of my research, I've noticed that each individual likes a certain technique and combination of materials to achieve a desired finish. It seems even more complex when it comes to finishing bodies.


True oil once it has harder is actually TOUGHER then Poly mate. and if you want a satin finish..you do the final rub with 0000 steelwool, if you want it shiny, just buff it and it gets shinny like crazy.


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

al3d said:


> True oil once it has harder is actually TOUGHER then Poly mate. and if you want a satin finish..you do the final rub with 0000 steelwool, if you want it shiny, just buff it and it gets shinny like crazy.


Good to know, thanks.


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

al3d said:


> trick is to put about a third of a bottle in a small cup...and about 6 to 8 drops of amber. mix it well and give it a first coat. let it dry all night. and see if the tint is to your liking. IMPORTANT thing to remember, use 0000 steel whole and rub the neck before each coats to remove any small bubbles or bumps. I usually do about 5 to 7 coats for a good finish. when it's done, you can get a full glossy finish or satin easily.


Just want to clarify a couple of things if I may. 

1) Is the tint (dye) applied prior to the tru-oil application?

2) Does tru-oil have it's own natural colour thus having to go lighter on the initial tinting?


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

Fajah said:


> Just want to clarify a couple of things if I may.
> 
> 1) Is the tint (dye) applied prior to the tru-oil application?
> 
> 2) Does tru-oil have it's own natural colour thus having to go lighter on the initial tinting?


i apply the tint first, then once its dry begin with the tru-oil. most folks do it this way-
i think it was martyb1, a forum member who had success simply mixing the amber with the tru-oil, then applying it- but i cant find the thread.

tru oil has a very gentle amber tint to it- it does darken the finish a touch, something to take into account when applying the amber. it also really makes the grain pop.


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

That sounds right. You can tint lacquer.


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

fraser said:


> i apply the tint first, then once its dry begin with the tru-oil. most folks do it this way-
> i think it was martyb1, a forum member who had success simply mixing the amber with the tru-oil, then applying it- but i cant find the thread.
> 
> tru oil has a very gentle amber tint to it- it does darken the finish a touch, something to take into account when applying the amber. it also really makes the grain pop.


Thanks. I'm going to try this method when the time comes. Testing on the heel on the neck will be necessary.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

> Testing on the heel on the neck will be necessary.


yes exactly!
when you apply the wet tru-oil to the heel, itll be about the same colour as when dry- once you get an idea of where youre at, but before it gets hard, you can wipe it off with naptha or alcohol-

have you sourced some tru-oil yet? i ask because i see folks having trouble getting it.
the bass pro shop in vaughn mills has it- its about $7 a bottle- in the rifle section.
i dont know toronto at all, but there are 3 outdoor stores here in hamilton that also carry it that i know for sure.


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## Heralchemy (Jul 15, 2009)

shoretyus said:


> That sounds right. You can tint lacquer.


i'm for tinting the lacquer. have done in industrial applications to wood...maple is always a bitch with water base. 
overall regular lacquer and varnishes yellow with UV lite (sunlight) over time. Simplest is best and think i have a trick to oxidize the wood colour (same as putting out something in the sun with regular lacquer that yellows) the Japs do a great job on their reissue Fenders ..they definitely treat the bare wood with something of a oxidizer/yellowing agent and top coat it. 
i think i might have a trick which is as easy as spraying out and dilute oven cleaner and apply on bare wood (sodium hydroxide) to bare wood. but i have to prefect this technique ..it does yellow/oxidize maple well but have to feel it out.
other than that ...Mini wax is bullshit ..any stain from Homeless Depot is big big bullshit. you get what you pay for but lee valley is alittle excessive in the asking 4 for their tints.
Any of you every used paste varnish by circa?
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3961
adds a nice yellow hue and you can lacquer over it..have used it as a table top finish coat (solely 2 applications ..thin tough film and has depth and alcohol resistance.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Matching_Natural_Maple_Finish_to_Existing.html


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Heralchemy;215025
Any of you every used paste varnish by circa?
[url said:


> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3961[/url]
> adds a nice yellow hue and you can lacquer over it.
> ]


Where does it say you can lacquer over it? It's poly based


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

shoretyus said:


> Where does it say you can lacquer over it? It's poly based


because its a poly, im sure you can top coat it with nitro-
might need light mist coats at first etc, but i dont see why it wont work really.

however, i dont see the point of bothering-
the stew mac tint cost me $20 canadian, and the product al3d listed is even cheaper, and is almost exactly the same product.
my bottle will do maybe 50 necks, and i can use it in any way i want, mix it with whatever i want, and i can tru-oil over it.
i used to experiment with ways to tint necks- always looking for an answer-
i found it:smile:


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## Heralchemy (Jul 15, 2009)

shoretyus said:


> Where does it say you can lacquer over it? It's poly based


its an old school oil base varnish ..not a poly urethane... its in industrial apps to use synthetic varnish as a sealer and top coating with high end lacquer. same as people shellacing to add depth and hues...click the woodweb link


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Heralchemy said:


> its an old school oil base varnish ..not a poly urethane... its in industrial apps to use synthetic varnish as a sealer and top coating with high end lacquer. same as people shellacing to add depth and hues...click the woodweb link


Quote
Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish is *made of gelled modified polyurethane*. This paste creates a rich patina and provides a true hand-rubbed finish that protects against heat, water and alcohol.


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

fraser said:


> The bass pro shop in vaughn mills has it- its about $7 a bottle- in the rifle section.


That's where I was going to get it.


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## martyb1 (Aug 5, 2007)

fraser said:


> i apply the tint first, then once its dry begin with the tru-oil. most folks do it this way-
> i think it was martyb1, a forum member who had success simply mixing the amber with the tru-oil, then applying it- but i cant find the thread.
> 
> tru oil has a very gentle amber tint to it- it does darken the finish a touch, something to take into account when applying the amber. it also really makes the grain pop.


Yes I have had great results just using the amber in the TruOil.Make sure you mix it real good.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

thanks marty- i was sure it was you but couldnt find the thread you posted it in.
that neck looks real nice- lotta flame!
im going to try this with one of my next projects:smile:


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## martyb1 (Aug 5, 2007)

And the nice thing it is almost impossible to screw up!


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## Fajah (Jun 28, 2006)

martyb1 said:


> Yes I have had great results just using the amber in the TruOil.Make sure you mix it real good.


Looks great. Thanks for posting the pics.


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