# Tried a Taylor 322e today...



## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

*OMF******G !!!! *That was the best sounding acoustic guitar I have tried in I don't know how long!! I usually don't bother with 12 fret guitars or ones with no cutaway. But this sounded sooooo good, I could play simple blues, flat-picking and cowboy chords all day long with out playing a note about the 10th fret or eve the 8th fret. The concert size body is perfect for me. I've tried some others in the past like a Martin CEO-7 etc, but this came out on top to my ears.










These cost $2700. I gonna have to mug a rich person to get that money.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Robert1950 said:


> These cost $2700. I gonna have to *mug a rich person* to get that money.


That means I'm totally safe.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

And I just found out that Taylor has released this for 2017...











aaaaarrrrrrgggghhhh.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Take your blood pressure meds, put your feet up and start to look around you in search of everything/anything that you think you could sell.

Everything but this...


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## BMW-KTM (Apr 7, 2015)

I have not yet tried any of the 12 fret versions but I've heard some good things.
Do you know anything about the Taylor numbering system?
They changed it a little.
It's pretty much the same as always but there are a couple of changes and I don't know what one of them means.

I have the link to their  numbering guide but it doesn't explain what the difference is between 1 & 2 in the middle digit.
Both mean 6-string but what the difference is, I don't know.
I thought maybe a 2 meant 12-fret but apparently not.
Perhaps it's an indication of the top wood but not specified.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

The 312ce is a concert size cutaway 14 fret with electronics. The 322ce is a concert size cutaway 12 fret with electronics. The difference of 1&2 a appears to be the difference between 12 and 14 frets


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

My local L&M has a 522E that calls my name every time I go in there - I am in a slow and gradual 12-fret hunt. But the price keeps it on their wall, not mine. Lovely guitar though.



BMW-KTM said:


> I have not yet tried any of the 12 fret versions but I've heard some good things.
> Do you know anything about the Taylor numbering system?
> They changed it a little.
> It's pretty much the same as always but there are a couple of changes and I don't know what one of them means.
> ...


From the 2016 Buyers Guide:

The second digit designates two things: first, whether the guitar is a 6-string or a 12-string, and second, whether the top features a software tonewood like spruce or cedar, or a hardwood like mahogany or koa. The middle number "1" or "2" designates a 6-string guitar with a softwood (1) or hardwood (2) top.

The middle number "5" or "6" designates a 12-string guitar with either a softwood (5) or hardwood (6) top.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Picked up a couple of Taylor magazines at L&M. Noticed they have 562ce - 12 sting, grand concert, cutaway, 12 fret, electronics. There are also 612ce 12 fret and 712e 12 fret models, so what I thought was the numbering scheme is out the window. So, 322ce is grand concert, cutaway, electronics, hardwood top, level 3 appointments which included solid wood top back and sides . The 3rd digit is body size I guess.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

To tell what Taylor you have. I have a 414ce. So series 4 visually, the 1 means it is a 6 string, and the 2nd 4 means it is a Grand Auditorium. "c"= cutaway and "e" means onboard electronics. 

But the middle number can be a 5, denoting a 12 string, or the middle can be a 2 denoting the top and back and side are all the same material. Shape codes for third digit as follows
0 = Dreadnought
2 = Grand Concert
4 = Grand Auditorium
6 = Grand Symphony
8 = Grand Orchestra


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## BMW-KTM (Apr 7, 2015)

It's all a little confusing.
It used to be that you knew what the top, sides and back were made of by the series number, first digit.
Now they've changed it up.
I think it would have been easier to simply add a letter at the front or back of the model number to indicate an aberration.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

The first digit designates the Series - and generally the body wood. All top woods are solid,but the 100/200 Series are laminated bodies.

100 and 200 Series are the cheaper laminated series. 1 being layered sapele with a sitka top. 2 being a layered rosewood with a sitka top.
200 Deluxe Series is layered rosewood, koa or sapele with sitka
300 Series is solid sapele/sitka or blackwood/mahogany (depending on the 2nd digit)
400 Series is solid ovankal over sitka - no other top option so no 42x or 46x guitars, only 41x and 45x models.
500 Series is solid mahogany (tropical) over mahogany, lutz spruce or cedar (again, depending on second digit)
600 Series is solid maple over torrefied sitka - again no 62x or 66x because of the single top wood
700 Series is solid Indian rosewood over sitka - only '1' and '5' second digits
800 Series is also solid Indian rosewood over sitka with fancier binding and rosette
900 Series is again solid Indian rosewood over sitka, with extreme bling.

The 700, 800 and 900 Series are single top woods (sitka = softwood) so again no x2x or x6x, only x1x (6-string) and x5x (12-string)

There is also a Koa Series and a Presentation Series (Macassar Ebony body) that use a 2 digit designation, like K22ce or PS56ce. These don't need the traditional first digit to indicate a body wood type.



knight_yyz said:


> To tell what Taylor you have. I have a 414ce. So series 4 visually, the 1 means it is a 6 string, and the 2nd 4 means it is a Grand Auditorium. "c"= cutaway and "e" means onboard electronics.
> 
> But the middle number can be a 5, denoting a 12 string, or the middle can be a *2 denoting the top and back and side are all the same material*. Shape codes for third digit as follows
> 0 = Dreadnought
> ...


The middle digit '2' doesn't indicate they are the same woods, only that it is a 6-string with a hardwood top. In the case you are referring to, there is currently no 42x or 46x model, only 41x and 45x models (sitka tops in 6 and 12 string).


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Understanding Acoustic Guitar Model Numbers


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Oops, I said I had a 414ce, I have 416ce which is a smidge bigger.

Oh and I said nothing about a 6 being the middle number, 1 is 6 string 5 is 12 string


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I wish I had known the difference between a 12 and 14 fret guitar. I think the 12's sound better


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## sambonee (Dec 20, 2007)

I miss my 000-2H collings. At 12 fretter. There's something about the volume and eq curve.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

I was raised on electrics, which is why I much prefer a 14 fret, and a 14 fret with a cutaway even a bit more. But I couldn't give a rat's ass about upper fret access with the glorious sound that came out of the 12 fret 322e.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

There is also 14 fret Taylor 322ce available. I wonder how much of sound is due to the solid Mahogany top and the solid Tasmanian Blackwood back and sides. I had never played a mahogany top guitar before that.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Oh,.... Aaaarrrrggghhh!!!

Myhre’s Music: Taylor 322e 12-fret Ltd

Clearance - this is $700 off the L&M price


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

buy it ........ buy it .......... buy it ......... buy it .......... buy it ........... buy it!!!!

Is that helping any?


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

I have gear for sale here and on kijiji, but that will raise maybe $400. I have $137 in the Loonie/Toonie jar. And $125.53 in the Tax free savings account. What is left in the RRSP account is NO TOUCH. And I'm retirement income. 

Oh well, I'll get over it in a few days, I always do.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

@Robert1950 I really like the size/feel/sound of that model Taylor. I played the 12 string version of it once. That too was a mistake. I feel your pain.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Went into L&M to torture myself and play it again. Fortunately it only sounded great, not divine 2x4 to the head great. I guess was because I expecting it to sound great, therefore barring any *WTF* reaction. This time I did pay more attention to the strings. They sounded great but were stiff and could feel them in my fingertips after awhile. That's because they are your standard 12-53s. I prefer 11-52s, The increase playability more than offsets any lose in tone, at least according to my ear. And I still think 13s should be shot.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I use John Pearse 11-50 myself. Slightly lights


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

I noticed that all four L&M stores in Edmonton have a 322e in stock. Since I am retired and living a life of very low cost leisure, I have to time to visit the North and Downtown stores and try the guitars they have there. And continue to torture myself.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I think we need to take up a collection so you can buy that guitar.





:note to self: buy plenty of toys while you are still working


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Sold a couple of cheap guitars. Have set up a TFSA gear account.


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

Gonna be more realistic and try a Mahogany GS Mini (1/4 the price). Close but no cigar can be more than enough. They got one at the L&M a few blocks down the road.


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## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

Play the hell out of whatever guitar you've got and be thankful for that. I once had a cheap LP copy with bronze acoustic strings on it because thats all I had and some of the machine heads needed to be turned with vice grips to tune the bastard. Didn't stop me from picking up that guitar and enjoying music. If you go at it the right way you can get tone from a Stanley hammer and a galvanized bucket.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

@Robert1950 I'm having similar Taylor GAS at the moment.
Mint conditon 214ce | guitars | Kitchener / Waterloo | Kijiji

214ce for $600.00


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

This thread..... NGD - It was the pick that made the difference.


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