# Polishing compound problem!



## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

Buying cheap used guitars and refinishing them is my hobby. Maybe even obsession. Wood filler the dents, then sand existing finish to scratch free smooth mat perfection. Sometimes sand off existing finish to bare wood. Rattlecan primer. Sanding paper again to remove lint or whatever. Rattle can paint 3 coats of satin or high gloss colour. Sandpaper in increments of 800 to 2500 for smooth, flat perfection. Rattle can clearcoat minimum 4 coats allowing 30 to 45 minutes between coats. Allow minimum 48 hours drying time. Wet sand in increments of 800 to 5000 grit to remove orange peel and achieve uniform flat appearance. Apply "Meguiar's Ultimate Compound" to buff and shine that project to perfection. Now the heartache begins!! I buff that body after the polishing compound has dried and the project is stunning, ready for silicone free car polish and reassembly. BUT, I have done 6 guitars now, I achieved mirror finish without flaws. And every one of them turns to disaster when I either lay it on it's back on a sheet on the spare bed OR place it on a guitar stand. The sheet will etch the perfection I had achieved or the 2 padded "arms" that cradle the guitar bottom edge will eat like acid into the finish. Either way, I must wet sand the damaged surfaces again with that vast array of grits and use the Meguiar's to salvage the project. What in the heck is going on here!!?? I follow directions, the projects are allowed to dry between procedures. Otherwise my sanding and buffing steps would not work right? I am blaming the Meguiar's for somehow turning the paint and clearcoat to a mush that retains good appearance but eliminates "hardness". But I realize that is ridiculous. So I'm lost! What am I doing wrong here?? This problem is ruining my hobby.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

The polishing compound is softening the finish.
Sanding & polishing create heat - heat softens finishes.
You need to hang the guitar for a couple of days after polishing.

Your finish might not be fully cured.
What are you using?
I typically let my finishes hang 2 weeks to a month before I sand & polish.

I am using acrylic lacquer or nitrocellulose lacquer.

Nathan


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## jayoldschool (Sep 12, 2013)

It's the rattle can paint. It doesn't harden like proper two part paint that adds hardener.


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## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

I thank you guys for replying! I have decided to buy a bunch of guitar wall hangers and hang my projects in the storage room for a month. Like venison, to cure. Neither rattlecan paint nor clearcoat when dry on any surface will result in a finish so soft that simply lying on a sheet will leave sheet impressions in them. My light bulb has been lit. Extended curing time is the obvious answer. But it amazes me that in all of the rattlecan tutorials on the Tube, not one has mentioned this "soft as icing" syndrome. Labels on the cans recommend unrealistic "between coat" drying times that when carefully adhered to guarantee failure. Anyway, I'm happy now, I will change my process and carry on. I am also looking forward to doing a guitar in lacquer. Still rattlecan. So back to YouTube for enlightenment. Thanks again for talking to me!


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

doblander said:


> I thank you guys for replying! I have decided to buy a bunch of guitar wall hangers and hang my projects in the storage room for a month. Like venison, to cure. Neither rattlecan paint nor clearcoat when dry on any surface will result in a finish so soft that simply lying on a sheet will leave sheet impressions in them. My light bulb has been lit. Extended curing time is the obvious answer. But it amazes me that in all of the rattlecan tutorials on the Tube, not one has mentioned this "soft as icing" syndrome. Labels on the cans recommend unrealistic "between coat" drying times that when carefully adhered to guarantee failure. Anyway, I'm happy now, I will change my process and carry on. I am also looking forward to doing a guitar in lacquer. Still rattlecan. So back to YouTube for enlightenment. Thanks again for talking to me!


What are you using for rattle cans & clear coat?

Nathan


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## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

My 2 most recent repaints were Tremclad and Rustoleum. Both hi gloss. My favorite clearcoat is Rustoleum painters touch 2X ultra cover Satin CLEAR. I warm all rattlecan in hot water at spray time. That Rustoleum clearcoat "dries with minimal to none orange peel. Makes for far less follow up sanding, less risk of burning through. After Meguiars Ultimate Compound, the finish is perfection! But somehow very soft! At first I blamed the Meguiars. But how could that step possibly turn the 2 coats primer and 2 or 3 coats of paint to mush?? So now I'm assuming that primer, paint and clearcoat are collectively "not dry enuf". Despite their abilities to successfully withstand the graduated grits and multiple steps in the wet sanding procedure.


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

Sounds like your on the right track. Makes sense to let all the coats of paint dry before using any compounds.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

doblander said:


> My 2 most recent repaints were Tremclad and Rustoleum. Both hi gloss. My favorite clearcoat is Rustoleum painters touch 2X ultra cover Satin CLEAR. I warm all rattlecan in hot water at spray time. That Rustoleum clearcoat "dries with minimal to none orange peel. Makes for far less follow up sanding, less risk of burning through. After Meguiars Ultimate Compound, the finish is perfection! But somehow very soft! At first I blamed the Meguiars. But how could that step possibly turn the 2 coats primer and 2 or 3 coats of paint to mush?? So now I'm assuming that primer, paint and clearcoat are collectively "not dry enuf". Despite their abilities to successfully withstand the graduated grits and multiple steps in the wet sanding procedure.


 That has been my experience with Rustoleum - it doesn’t dry enough for a guitar.

It sounds like your methods are good - the only thing I would add is do not try to use the whole can.
Use only the top 1/2 or 2/3rds - the bottom of a can always starts to spit (as the propellant gets low).

Nathan


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## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

Whenimstanding in front of the vast array of rattlecans in Caadan Tire, I choose colour, the brand name has meant nothing to me. Maybe I should change that. But really, I'm very satisfied with the results my procedure achieves so I've decided to carry on. BUT. I've ordered a few guitar hangers online. When I have successfully completed the final buff/polish with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, I'll hang that project by the neck until dried! Arbitrarily one month. I'm optimistic! As far as the splatter from rattlecans is concerned, I learned the real hard way. Dont even think about using one without standing it in hot water shake it up a time or two heat it some more and bingo! I can spray with that can till there's nothing left in it but that ball bearing. Well almost. Within reason. To blow it out completely is a very bad idea, heated or not. I thank you for talking with me about my guitar finishing problem! I consider my problem resolved.


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## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

I had same issue with a spray bomb clearcoat, even after 8 weeks was still problematic and I wrote it off to my impatience between coats. Fortunately for me, leaning marks rubbed out, I put it in a hanger and it marked the neck/headstock. I now hang via a twisted coat hanger through tuner holes from a ceiling hook.


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## NtR Studios (Feb 28, 2008)

Try Spraymax 2k from Napa. Its pricy compared to your average spray bombs but it gives a really hard finish.


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