# Zero Frets



## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

I have an old Teisco/Kawai, SG style with a zero fret. 

I was going to chisel it out, remove the plastic nut and make a bone nut for it, but, zero frets do have some advantages. 

It's old, body/neck only and got it for $15 for refret practice. Thinking I need a Pelham Blue SG. 

If I refret... Do I install the frets and level, then just install a fret not leveled? Or would it not be tall enough? I have a pack of pre-radiused cut frets, do I need to buy another pack of bigger frets for a single fret?


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

Having a zero fret is great if you have a really good fret-board with no twist at all but a nightmare if the neck is worn and grooved even to the slightest degree. The problems happen when you need to re-cut the slots because you need to address the neck to correct wear that will cause the frets to be like a set of uneven speed bumps. If like most fancied up guitars the neck has hidden tangs then the process of gently cleaning out the fret slots with a dental pic without chipping out the slots can become a royal PITA. Remember one thing, crazy glue is your best friend but can quickly become your worst enemy. Very tiny drops only to hold down loose wood chips and frets!

On an electric or acoustic having a very slight open string buzz at a bone nut is real problem because a buzzing string is losing energy and cannot be accurately tuned. The open string will sound like crap and wander in pitch even if the guitar is perfectly in tune. Whereas a zero fret with good string height setup and decent downward pressure to the tuners will always sound more even and easy to tune.

This pair of tools is well designed for the job you have in mind. They are not dirt cheap but will last if taken care of and not left to rust and corrode.

The advantage of a simple nut that puts pressure down on a zero fret is that the nut slots for the strings do not have to be perfectly done whereas cutting a string slot at the right height in a bone nut to achieve a perfectly balanced and playable string height at the nut is a very exacting process requiring jewellers files of multiple sizes and a very good small measuring stick with fine increments down to millimetres all the way down to the end.

Also removing the zero fret and putting in a nut slot at the exact centre of the first fret slot requires the use of either very high grade fine saws and wood chisels or a really well secured router with a precise and very sharp bit in a jig that you might need to build. 

A few decent pictures of the neck can help some here make very good suggestions about how to proceed. It is possible to correct a neck with slight finger wear but it is a slow process and is why a luthier or any reputable repair shop needs to see the instrument before firmly quoting job costs. 
All I can say is let your ears be the judge and you will do great.
Good Luck
Eric


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

I got a bit lost at fretboard wear... If the tops of the frets are even and level, the fretboard should be a non-factor.... I mean, a zero fret works on a scalloped fretboard, which is like extreme wear. 

So far I have refretted a Washburn neck, when I took that guitar course at Conestoga. Teacher couldn't believe how well done it was, which is always a good thing. I have some good quality tools for it, just got a set of tang nippers as well which I will need because the neck on this has binding. 

It's a learning guitar, so I'll do more work on this than what's needed. Like popping out the plastic inlays and making new pearl ones. Might even rebind the neck so I can try making the nibs. 

Frets I got are Fender standard medium jumbo 0.047" tall. Jescar makes a super jumbo stainless steel 0.057" frets... Place in the UK sells a zero fret assortment pack, kinda cool but sold out and pricey.


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## Markus 1 (Feb 1, 2019)

Eric Reesor said:


> Having a zero fret is great if you have a really good fret-board with no twist at all but a nightmare if the neck is worn and grooved even to the slightest degree. The problems happen when you need to re-cut the slots because you need to address the neck to correct wear that will cause the frets to be like a set of uneven speed bumps. If like most fancied up guitars the neck has hidden tangs then the process of gently cleaning out the fret slots with a dental pic without chipping out the slots can become a royal PITA. Remember one thing, crazy glue is your best friend but can quickly become your worst enemy. Very tiny drops only to hold down loose wood chips and frets!
> 
> On an electric or acoustic having a very slight open string buzz at a bone nut is real problem because a buzzing string is losing energy and cannot be accurately tuned. The open string will sound like crap and wander in pitch even if the guitar is perfectly in tune. Whereas a zero fret with good string height setup and decent downward pressure to the tuners will always sound more even and easy to tune.
> 
> ...



Awesome info

Brian May's red special has a zero fret. Remarkable tuning stability with trem use
I've always wanted to try it at least but alas this kind of setup is rare


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

If you have a fret that's a couple of thousandths higher, use it.
In theory, you should be able to use the same fret for a zero fret assuming the board is levelled properly. There may be enough discrepancy to end up with a string buzzing played open though. If you use a higher fret, you can always take some off with a crowning file.
If you do decide to put in a regular nut, You cant just cut through the zero fret slot and put a nut in its place You'll have to account for the .020 width of the fret slot- or whatever is is- and make sure your new nut sits at the .010 spot. Your intonation will suffer if you don't get it right.



THRobinson said:


> Frets I got are Fender standard medium jumbo 0.047" tall. Jescar makes a super jumbo stainless steel 0.057" frets... Place in the UK sells a zero fret assortment pack, kinda cool but sold out and pricey.


If you are going with a .047, stewmac has a wire that is .050 x .100. That would be perfect. Find a luthier close to you and ask him/her for a fret.


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

THRobinson said:


> I got a bit lost at fretboard wear... If the tops of the frets are even and level, the fretboard should be a non-factor.... I mean, a zero fret works on a scalloped fretboard, which is like extreme wear.


True, however if the neck has had work in the past things can get dicey as I am sure you understand. Also a great deal depends upon the tabling, if the neck and fingerboard has distorted at all it can be very difficult to correct it especially with inlays that might start to pop. Sorry that I was not quite clear on what I was trying to explain. Lots of careful exact sand paper work and measuring before re-saw of the frets if the job is extensive. Re-fret work can quickly turn into restoration. But in the case of that particular rare instrument it may well be very much worth the effort especially if the electrics and old hardware are in great shape. My first experience with messing with frets at the age of 15, on a similar Japanese steel string, created a buzzing electric sitar that sounded fantastic playing along with some Harrison riffs!


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

@Markus 1 I read that article about May's guitar after what, 30+ years? was getting the zero nut replaced for the first time. I came across that because someone said zero nuts were junk and don't last half as long as the frets, which didn't sound right. Personally, I think they make more sense than a bone nut, especially now with stainless steel as an option. Stainless steel zero fret should last a long long time.

@zztomato yeah, using a reg nut would definitely need an accurate cut. I have the saws for the job but, that's why leaning towards keeping a zero fret. The Washburn I refretted had a Floyd Rose lock/nut which was easier to replace. Looking at it now, you'd never know it was there unless someone told you. I was thinking of getting a 2' length of that stainless steel 0.057" because should have enough height to it for any zero fret work in the future, and enough metal I can adjust it down in size. Though... as you said "In theory, you should be able to use the same fret for a zero fret assuming the board is levelled properly." that's why I was wondering if I needed another fret wire or not... after levelling and crowning, the 0.047" wire I have will be shorter than a new piece of the same stuff.

So... It's a Kay K-20, made in Taiwan, SG Copy. Again, $15... bit rough, plywood body. Tuners are junk at this point, and I'll have to re-create a headstock logo... well, get to, I actually enjoy that stuff. Anyways... photos and a YouTube link of someone playing one.

As you can see, some zero fret wear, loose top nut, weird gouges on the low-E side. I have almost the exact same guitar, except branded Vibra... not a 2-piece pickguard rather a single 1-piece but should fit the same. Luckily just a bit smaller than the standard sized blank sheets they sell on eBay. Thinking Pelham Blue, and 3-ply white pearl pickguard. Maybe a set of GFS gold foils... forgot to measure to see what will fit. Almost wondering if on this it had surface mount... holes are not normal size.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Eric Reesor said:


> Re-fret work can quickly turn into restoration. But in the case of that particular rare instrument it may well be very much worth the effort especially if the electrics and old hardware are in great shape.


Yeah, I hear ya... I have a 1970 Hagstrom Swede (3rd one ever made) but previous owners stripped it down of hardware and the finish... most neck binding is gone... it's gonna be a full restoration, refret, neck binding, etc... which is why I want to try the $15 guitar first. 

Though, no original stuff like tuners or pickups for the Hagstrom. "IF" you can find original used parts, the price is insane. Like $300 per pickup. I'd never make the money back selling it. That said I talked to Hagstrom, and they're selling me the parts direct for rebuilding it using all new parts. 

I have the original plastic parts, body, neck, and bridge... everything else will be new Swede parts. My biggest concern is the finish right now... having been stripped, then I think shellac painted on with a stiff brush, streaks all over... after stripping again, I don't think I can stain it. Will have to tint the clear finish, which I have never done, and I am planning to use Solarez, that UV curing polyester finish because originally the Hagstrom was cherry red with a polyester finish. Won't be touching it until the new year though. Clear the small projects first, and parts on backorder for another month anyways.


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

Holy crap a one piece mahog neck that survived from the sixties if i read the pics correctly? Rare bird indeed. Many slim neck Gibson guitars cannot make that claim. The fingerboard looks like an asian rosewood of some sort. If you cannot nail it with a finger nail then it will suffice IMO.

If the truss is still serviceable then you could easily get the guitar back to decent playing condition and a good solid refinish will look great even if you have to go to an opaque finish to hide things up if the wood looks like crap. No different than an old fender made out of really blotched alder or swamp ash. Looks like it will require a slow chemical strip though otherwise the sand paper and N95 mask costs might exceed the costs of the hardware replacement and the job would take an impossible amount of time to get it right. You never know the original wood may have a wonderful aged look with dark stain highlights of a wood that is not perfect. Some would reject that look out of hand but to my eyes imperfect woods can be full of character and are a thing of beauty to be cherished especially if they are more sound and stable than so called "master grades".

Post pics of your work...great thread @THRobinson !
PS: the wear you descried can very easily be explained by having endured endless versions of "smoke on the water" in the hands of geetar students. 🎸 🏭🏭🏭🏭🏭🏭❎❎❎❎❎


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Not sure what the neck is... It's a 3ply. Looks good, seems solid, might be mahogany and walnut?

This Kay SG is plywood for the body. Nice colour, veneer is nice, but rough shape so, sand it down and bondo the deep dings, then Pelham Blue with pearl and chrome. All cheap parts though... Not spending a lot on this one. Maybe a made in China eBay bigsby type bridge. $45 you can get one with a roller tun-o-matic.

The Hagstrom is the one I'm worried about regarding the finish... Never stained a guitar before, plus it's been finished and stripped twice. Just worried about messing up a good guitar. I read that you can tint Solarez, so, transtint red with a bit of black, get it a bit darker and I think have to brush on that stuff.

Annoyingly, the acorn nuts are missing for that string tree... I had the exact same thing on a Winston tear drop Vox knockoff, and it has a weird size and thread, I never found a match. Close but lose. Buying on of those guages for bolts.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

So, labour day sales... Got a few parts on order, gonna add a 2ft piece of wire to the basket. 

So, I have 0.047“ tall wire now. Should I grab the Jescar stainless steel 0.051", 0.057"or 0.058“? 

The 0.057 is 0.01 more than I have now... That too much? Hard to tell with such small numbers plus increasing gap over distance.


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Basically, you can go with as little as .001 clearance or maybe as much as .004 before playing around the first couple of frets will feel stiff and produce intonation issues. Ss frets take a lot of work to file down so I'd probably go with the .051


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

Well glued and constructed 3 piece neck...Neat. Most likely an African wood of this species with an off cut of something darker sandwiched in the middle. That way the three pieces do not need to be completely on the quarter to remain stable when sealed in finish. Same technique used for creating stable neck through the body basses. Great to see that it has not had checking the way guitars without a heavy finish on the neck can. I would not refinish the neck if possible but find a way to just touch it up if there are areas of ring on finger abuse. You know, a Gene Simmons special.

Guitars that are constantly played with the thumb wrapped around the neck to play the 6th string for a "smoke on the water" and "power chord" jams can and do frequently have weird finish and fretboard wear on the bass side in the lower positions.

If the veneer on the top of the body is a thick one then you might be able to turn the 15 dollar guitar into a little gem with a clear finish even if there are some imperfections to be addressed. An antiqued slightly distressed finish could look great on a guitar like that IMO. Either that or use automotive sanding fillers and paints with metal flake for super fly type flash effect. ... just kidding.
But there is a place for things like good air brush art on good old guitars when done really well. If I was doing it I would leave it blank and let an air brush guru weave magic on it then clear coat it.

I do not know about staining the uv cure product you refer to but if it is a clear finish that can be used as top coat then you might be able to use a darker spray shellac fill coat base to accentuate the quality of the woods on the other guitar and clear coat it after the shellac completely cures. Pore filling is tricky depending greatly upon the species of bare wood. Time consuming to build up the base enough to level sand enough for a clear coat but well worth the effort if the guitar is a really good one. Some rattle can spray shellacs can be very good if used properly so you do not need to spend big on a low volume air setup to base coat and pore fill the guitar. Problems arise if you cannot get all the old finish off and some product down in the pores causes issues. That is where shellac comes in handy like a dirty shirt, if shellac won't stick then just about nothing else on the planet will.

Best advice is to experiment on wood first with the products because you never know what might cause fisheye, orange peal, runs and other intractable problems with a fast drying hard lacquer product.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Well, the KAY SG (in the photos) I just ordered parts for. Gonna be a Guitar Fetish build for the most part. I'll be doing the body and possibly headstock in Pelham Blue. Originally the plan was to make this thing look like it was painted like a low-rider for Bootsy Collins, heavy flake, gold, pearl, airbrush/lace effects, etc... but, for all that effort I'd rather do that on a better quality guitar. 

Went with a LP stile 3-way switch, low-profile to fit. I grabbed a pair of GFS Lil' Crunchy mini humbuckers from the clearance section. Discounted because no Qwik-Connect, which is fine... instead of paying $72USD for the pair, after the discount code they were $22USD the pair. The hole routed for the pickups is literally the size of an 8-String pickup. No regular pickups will fit so, will have to add wood and re-route a bit, which is why I'm glad to paint it Pelham Blue not a translucent finish. Also grabbed a basic import/metric tune-o-matic and tail piece. Should fit. I won't do any coil splitting this time, or 4 controls, just a volume and tone. Trying the GFS brand pots for that. I was gonna get the tuners that are like vintage LP Jr. tuners, 3 on a metal plate... but adding $22 tuners almost doubled my shipping cost. I have a set of Grovers on an Agile guitar I'm swapping for the green/jade keystones, I'll use the Grovers on it. Then custom cut a 3ply pearl pickguard. Finally recreate the Kay logo that fell off. I'll also carefully peel off the serial tag and made-in sticker, add them back when done and probably clear coat over top. Try to preserve them. Oh, and the zero-fret... I ended up getting a narrow 0.51" Jescar SS wire. Came in a 2 foot length. I tried to measure what I had with the calipers and I think going with the 0.051" will need a small amount filed down, but not much. Nut wise, cheap plastic almost falling off, I'll make a new bone one. Last is that string retainer/tree... #5-40 I think is the nut size I need. Can't find any acorn nuts, but found nylon locking nuts which will probably be a better option anyways.

So, when done... body and maybe headstock will be Pelham blue. The giant pickguard pearl white. Hardware chrome. 2 mini-buckers with a 3-way switch, single volume and single tone.

I've never cut pearl inlays before, I have replaced dots... debating if I should try replacing the plastic inlays as well.

The Hagstrom... that's gonna be another thread and probably Spring 2021. A lot of what this guitar needs... refret, new neck binding, etc.... the Hagstrom needs. This is a practice run.


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

Impressive to do list. If the existing inlays are mother of creamy white plastic they may be easy to recreate in some new-fangled cheap and much better looking material. The new high quality old school look mother of toilet seat materials can look quite nice if well done. I can't see getting Cesco to recreate those huge inlays with their lasers in real mother of pearl as a financially sensible option. If you are going to use plastic for inlay and fingerboard bindings why not go all the way and make it look completely different than original. 

Good idea choosing the sound of an early simple humbucker setup without too many switches and pots and gobs of wires that can create shielding nightmare issues. Sticking to the KISS principle can bring surprisingly good results. I remember going to a dance and listening to the Berry Cup Blues band, the rhythm guitarist could not stop his new and overly complex triple humbucker epiphone guitar from picking up radio signals and hum from just about everything that put out heavy emr in the Alberni Valley. Switching chords and polarity on the amp did not help much. So someone lent him a simple LP Junior that was back stage and on with the show. 
Funny as hell watching someone stretch out a guitar chord and suddenly hearing the music change to the voice of a local DJ introducing a new Rolling Stones single in the background replete with someone keying in a Morse code cq on their powerful ham rig right next door to the hall.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Ya... as the guy from Crimson Guitars calls it, Mother of Toilet Seat. They're more silvery than pearl, kinda blah.... 

I want to get one of these kits, for this and future use... though I do have the plans to make a CNC next year after the shop is done and a few other projects out of the way. Often wondered about buying those cheap CNC's off Amazon for $300 that sit on your desk. Be good to learn CNC on, and probably good enough to cut some inlays. 

That said, again, Pelham Blue with chrome/pearl... makes sense to keep the binding and inlays white/pearl to match. 

Pickup wise, yup... KISS for this one. I have a Cort guitar I bought, also neck/body only, now Lamborghini orange/pearl with black hardware. I went with Warman pickups from the UK. I have 2 single pickup sized mini rail humbuckers, and their version of a P-Rail, they called a G-Rail which is a full size single coil plus a mini railed humbucker. Originally the guitar had a vol/tone and 5way switch, I replaced the Tone with a push/pull switch for series/parallel and added a mini 3-way for the G-Rail to switch between coils. I'm not great with wiring, and figuring that out really sucked. 

I have another guitar coming, if the seller stops messing me around... I need the bridge off it for a rebuild (old 6-point Kahler build Floyd Rose)... apart from that, it's the typical old school '80s metal guitar. 1 humbucker, 1 volume knob. That's it. I haven't done much with Art lately, went to College for Art and Design, haven't airbrushed in years either, use to do Pinup Girls... figured this single pickup guitar has a lot of space for some artwork.


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

Most importantly don't cheap out and use low quality jacks, pot and switches or cheap crappy soldering equipment and materials. The nickels and dimes extra you spend on decent electrics will pay off in better sounding guitars that will last if respected. At least until someone spills their rum and coke on the pickups during a hot jam session.⛈💥 
Quick change pickup setups can be good but not if you use cheap connectors. Hot single coils also have a place but again the quality of install, pots, connections, switches and setup can make a huge difference. 

Neat clean and reliable wiring that is never seen until some player decides to pull a Pete Townsend with the guitar is a matter of pride and is more important than a flash axe finish to good players. I do notice that Bootsy likes to take good care of gear. I respect that.

My brother Chris is the real guru with electric guitar setups, but he has taught me much over the years. It is very easy to turn a silk purse into a sows ear, but the opposite is not the case with electric guitars. Best to draw out a circuit and check the math based upon values before soldering. E=IR is the key. 

Also a really great book to study to help build better sounding gear is this classic one: Physics and Music. 
I am predominantly a Classical Guitarist but I also freely admit that I am a life long student of the craft. The more I learn the better the sounds I can create, the same is true of electric guitarists and guitar builders. IMO.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

That Guitar Fetish stuff isn't half bad... kinda that grey area between name brand parts like Switchcraft, CTS, etc... and the no-name eBay China stuff. 

Some stuff is more generic there than others, but their XGP branded stuff so far hasn't been bad. Overall I've had decent luck with GFS. 

That said, I do have a few builds planned from scratch... body, neck, fretting etc... and those will get the quality Bourns pots and Switcraft switches etc. Again, this is a $15 plywood Kay... without the original parts, it'll never be worth much.


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## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

I have a bass with zero frets.

(oh, you mean a zero fret.


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## Eric Reesor (Jan 26, 2020)

THRobinson said:


> That Guitar Fetish stuff isn't half bad... kinda that grey area between name brand parts like Switchcraft, CTS, etc... and the no-name eBay China stuff.
> 
> Some stuff is more generic there than others, but their XGP branded stuff so far hasn't been bad. Overall I've had decent luck with GFS.
> 
> That said, I do have a few builds planned from scratch... body, neck, fretting etc... and those will get the quality Bourns pots and Switcraft switches etc. Again, this is a $15 plywood Kay... without the original parts, it'll never be worth much.


Thanks for the link to Guitar Fetish. As we start to get inquiries for the inevitable repairs of older less expensive electrics that are important family heirloom guitars, sourcing decent replacement parts is as much of an art as is making them playable again. Keeping the costs down for that kind of custom fix has always been a nightmare for decent repair shops. 


zontar said:


> I have a bass with zero frets.
> 
> (oh, you mean a zero fret.


Off topic a bit but nice little bit of humour. Some of the less expensive fretless low action basses can be even more of a nightmare at times if the fingerboard needs to be addressed to make them play well. IMO fretless instruments in future will become better with the advent of carbon fibre and advanced composite fingerboards and necks as we start to run out of the great woods like ebony and mahogany. Today's attitude of creating tonnes and tonnes of cheap disposable musical instruments with the remainder of the worlds great woods really bugs me.


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## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

Eric Reesor said:


> Off topic a bit but nice little bit of humour. Some of the less expensive fretless low action basses can be even more of a nightmare at times if the fingerboard needs to be addressed to make them play well. IMO fretless instruments in future will become better with the advent of carbon fibre and advanced composite fingerboards and necks as we start to run out of the great woods like ebony and mahogany. Today's attitude of creating tonnes and tonnes of cheap disposable musical instruments with the remainder of the worlds great woods really bugs me.


That's one of the reasons I decided against the Squier fretless J basses-and a lower end LTD.
Although Squier seems to have made some good changes recently.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Eric Reesor said:


> Thanks for the link to Guitar Fetish. As we start to get inquiries for the inevitable repairs of older less expensive electrics that are important family heirloom guitars, sourcing decent replacement parts is as much of an art as is making them playable again. Keeping the costs down for that kind of custom fix has always been a nightmare for decent repair shops.


Ya, I hate modding vintage guitars, cheap or not... simply because they survived 50yrs+. My Vibra SG, $30... but I took that apart, flushed all electronics and got them working, polished all the metal, most went into the sonic cleaner first, fretboard was absolutely disgusting, even had to put the pickguard inbetween sheets of glass and iron it to get the waves out. Lots of work for a $30 guitar but looks and plays great now. 

In the case of the KAY though... neck and body only... to restore using original parts would take years and hundreds of dollars. Kinda no point. 

Hagstrom is the same... someone stripped the finish off and replaced so many parts, the only thing left is the body, neck and bridge. Guitar was $600... but the original pickups are $300 each plus shipping. Tuners near the same. Luckily Hagstrom has a few reproduction parts for modern models and selling me direct. Sadly, some parts on a 2 month back order. :S


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

zontar said:


> That's one of the reasons I decided against the Squier fretless J basses-and a lower end LTD.
> Although Squier seems to have made some good changes recently.


I have a basic Squier bass, which I'm going to sell... got at a great deal a year ago, never touched it. 

That said, Squier makes some good stuff. Problem is deciphering which is which based on where it was made and serial number. I have a pair of the China made ones with the CXS serial number and those are great. Built ti MIM specs, better wood, and the same MIM tuners. The USA vintage bridge drops in with 0 modifications. Really good, just essentially needs a new pickguard/wiring/pickup assembly.


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## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

The fretted J basses in the same series were/are good, decent guitars--but the fretless ones (At least the older ones) tended to have easily warped necks and the ebanol board was a problem at times as well.

I've heard of some who never had any issues--so who knows?
Maybe they have a different standard than I do (Which is possible) or they got a good one.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

We've gone from a zero-fret Kay SG guitars, to no fret Squier bass's. 

Well, I'll let the thread die a while... parts on order, now to do some sanding, painting and waiting. Tonight I get to use illustrator to recreate the pickguard.

I really wish I had a CNC built. COVID stuff kinda put that project on hold. 

Anyone know a cheap place to get a pickguard cut? I'll have the flat art and plastic... maybe the 3D art done in Fusion. I have it and I guess good thing to practice with.


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## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

My zero fretted 50 yr old Klira, after two levels sits at .037" @zero fret. I had to check . Its quite worn, notched deeper than yours appears and apparently needs more work again very soon. Other frets around .033-.034 with .027-.029 in a couple low spots.
I'm thinking that you've got room for at least 1 level/crown job, which is how I'd look at it, if mine. Your fret ends appear to be a little shy of the neck edges though, so a slight gain in working real estate might be a bonus of doing a re-fret. 
While I considered a re-fret at the last level job, ie. should "Zero" be higher that the rest, it occurred to me that providing the level is done well, the height of the Zero could/should be the same as any other fret.

I'm glad you decided not to lop off the fretboard for sake of a plain nut. Thought of splitting the tang width and or shimming would make me nuts. This looks to be a nice project. 

I have another zero fret to check (a LP), back later ... good luck.


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