# Esquire Build - Done For Now



## keto (May 23, 2006)

Well, except I have to put the decal on headstock. And future plans are to do some medium to heavy reliccing.

Concept is old Esquire routed out for humbucker, using cut out Tele style 3 saddle bridge. Not a true representation of an old Esquire, no neck pup route and short control cavity.

Warmoth neck, Burstbucker2 pickup. Built the body. Rattle can paint on body and a tinted lacquer on both body and neck.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)




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## keto (May 23, 2006)




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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

looks real good keto- very butterscotchy
i like the way you dealt with the pickup and control plate- nice thinking and execution.
what are the specs on the warmoth neck?
hope it feels good in your hands:smile:


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

It's fairly chunky but not huge, 9.5" and 6105's. Had a soft V but I sanded it off, can't abide them - got it at a discount in the first place was the only reason I bought it. Has fairly square shoulders that I also took down/rounded but just a touch.

I generally prefer thinner necks, like modern Fender C. This feels OK but I do cramp up after a bit, it'll take some getting used to.


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

How did you make out with the lacquer problem? Where is that bridge from?


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Keto..would you mind explaining a bit your hardware relic technics?...I want to some relic work on 2 of my guitars, and i realy like your result.

the tele looks wicked man.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

shoretyus said:


> How did you make out with the lacquer problem? Where is that bridge from?


In the end I believe the laquer checking is from too much water during wetsanding - causes the wood under to expand and crack the lacquer. It's still sticking to the body 100%, did have a few flaking spots off the neck.

The bridge is just a cheap Tele bridge, bought so long ago that I forget where. Probably ebay. I have some 'Fender' stamped bridges here, I was going to use one of them if the first one was unsuccessfull. But it works fine, is very rigid and does the job. The 2nd picture down in the first post is the actual bridge I used, with the cutting points marked off.

*al3d*: Aging. I did 3 different things, or 4 if a revised version of the same one counts.

1. sanded/scuffed parts with 400 grit sandpaper pre-aging, except the pickup and tuners. I don't like the result, the scratches are too prominent.

1b. I did the pickup and tuners with 2000 grit sandpaper pre-aging, and got a much more satisfactory result, finer scuff and less swirl.

2. The bridge and control plate were dipped in a solution of saltwater (mixed in an ice cream pail, BEAUCOUP salt in boiling water) for aproximately 3 days. Then left exposed to elements with no cleaning for several days after that. Salt crystals formed on the parts. After, I wiped them down, rust/corrosion was already starting to form.

3. ALL screws, the tuners, the bridge saddles and springs, string ferrules, the knobs - scuffed em up then used ferric chloride, aka etchant solution, that I bought from an electronics shop. 1/2 litre that would do probably a dozen guitars cost me $10. Wipe on the bigger parts, let soak 10-15 min, wipe off, reapply as required. Screws, saddles and the back neckplate were actually soaked in it for longer.....stainless parts take MUCH longer to age than nickel or nickel plated parts do. Scuffing/sanding chrome to get down thru to the base metal yields faster results.

I substantially overcooked the neck plate and hated the results so I just went all out overboard and redid the same neck plate to max corrosion look.

The ferric chloride was cut with water as per instructions I read online, 50-50 or 1/3 water 2/3 acid. Yes, it is acid, wear gloves long sleeves protective eyewear and do it in a well ventilated space or wear a proper respirator (not just a dust mask).


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Keto, thanks for the tips mate....truely appriciated


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