# Buff and Polish - Drill Foam Pads



## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

For the 2 guitars I have that need painted, wet-sanded and polished, I don't want to spend a lot on more tools like a buffer. I was looking at foam pad kits for the drill instead.

I was looking at a kit like
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M727539/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2QK061Y19UPZI&colid=QGFCW1CXG2SH&psc=1

Just wondered if anyone had any luck with these? Also, is it better to get a smaller 5" or the larger 7"? for inside the cutaways I'd almost think smaller would be better... or is there a better kit/option?

I have Meguiar's Ultimate Compound sitting at home I thought may work, but wasn't sure if it would be something for after wet-sanding or if I needed something else in between. Something after?

I'll be using car paint (lacquer). Plan was to do the clear, let it sit for the better part of the week before doing the final sand/polish. Sand up to 3000 with 3M wetsand paper. After that, maybe use that foam polishing kit and Meguiars.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

wool pad for polishing, also check lee valley tools and woodessence.com. also check out micromesh pads.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

That woodessence site looks pretty good... some polish compounds used by Fender on there and in small amounts.

That's one thing I hate, is finding stuff that works, but sold in large amounts only. I watch that YouTube channel, Brand Angove, and he seems to favour the Liquid Ice compound, but seems only sold by the litre and don't think I need that much.

So, wool for all stages? I know some use varying coarseness foam pads... I guess depends if using 1 compound and different coarseness pads, or wool pads and different coarseness compounds. 1 pad per compound though, saw that on a StewMac video last night.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

that drill setup should be ok. What ever you do, resist the urge to put a buffing pad on your angle grinder. It's too fast and nothing hurts worse than burning through your clear. And it's all over in the blink of an eye.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Ya, I debated that when thinking of doing my car years back and read a few things about what happens when you do, like ruining the clear-coat, assuming the sponge doesn't fly apart first. 

I think the drill sponges be ok, saw a few vids using those. Meguiars is supposed to be ok, if you sand up to at least 3000 grit first. Though, may buy this stuff in the small amounts...

Menzerna Polishing Paste

See what they have in high grit 5" discs for my sander.

Size wise though... those drill foam pads come in varying sizes... was thinking 7" may be too big for the sides and inside the cutaways, maybe go for 5" since my sander is 5" and seemed a good size.


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## Petriw (May 15, 2007)

My process: wet-sand 1500 / 2000 / 3000 then 3 separate pads 1 each for heavy/medium/fine. I use foam pads. Do not use the same pad. You would be cross cross contaminating grits. Always be sure to keep the tool in motion. Apply the abrasive to the pad making sure to spread it on the pad surface. Slightly wet your work before you start ,If it becomes dry dampen it. This keeps the work from getting to hot and provides slight lubrication. Ensure you clean your work between abrasives. Follow up with scratch remover and then pure carnuba wax and wool pad. I usually use Meguiars products. You can get them at Can Tire. 3 m products are very very good and I prefer them but very expensive. You would have to purchase them from an auto-body specialty shop. Do not use anything with silicone in it. Most of what I know about painting I learned from painting cars and motorcyles when I was younger. I don't do that anymore but it gave me a leg up on doing the same thing with guitars. There other methods for achieving good results. This is just one of them. Some builders do not wet sand at all


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Just ordered stuff last night...

I have a 5" orbital sander, got a nice assorted pack of those up to 2000 grit. Also bought 3000 + 5000 grit but, China so, won't be seeing those for a few months if lucky.

Bought the 5" foam pads for the drill. Though hook and loop I think, so may work on the oribital as well, not sure which would work better... probably just use the drill.

Also grabbed one of each of these in the small amount. Should be enough for a few guitars. Says to sand up to 1000, then use the Med Paste, so sanding up to 2000 should be good enough.

Ordering paint today because guy at the counter at NAPA had no idea which paint I wanted. I guess they send the request in to Stratford, gets mixed and overnight ships to my local store. Which is fine, guy I chatted with at NAPA through email was apparently the paint guy in Stratford so, will get it from him and ship here. They have quite a few options I didn't know about, fast dry enamel woulda been the easiest and cheapest, except I have to hand paint details onto the guitar then clear over top, so, will get the $30 can, lacquer I think, and then a $25 can of the activated clear for a more durable finish when done.

Part of me wants to clear with the Minwax water-based satin Polyurethane I used for the neck. Rather a satin finish for this project and neck came out great, and brushed on not sprayed. Because winter, I have tp go outside when not snowing, spray, bring it in, hang to dry, and back and forth. 

Would the Minwax be a good clearcoat to use?


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

i used micromesh by hand starting at 2000 and ending up at 12000, then a wool buff and Maguiars on my drill press to get this.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

I like the micromesh, I have a set of small 2" pads I used for restoring old smoking pipes, the stems were vulcanite and came out like black glass when done.

120000 mesh I think is about 3000 grit for sandpaper if I recall... I have a few sheets of 3000 3M wet/dry I may use, but that paste I grabbed recommended 1000 so, probably do 2000 with my oribital before going to the paste.


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