# Martin X Series Guitars



## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

If you are looking for a reasonably priced guitar and are looking for tone, you could do yourself a favour by checking these out.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I've been wanting to try one of the X-series in a 12 string since they came out......but I haven't found one in stock yet at any of the local music stores.


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

Lincoln said:


> I've been wanting to try one of the X-series in a 12 string since they came out......but I haven't found one in stock yet at any of the local music stores.


I tried one about 2 years ago at a shop in St. Catharines. When I first saw it I almost didn't try it since it was a Martin. Then I looked at the price and said, "what the heck". Then when I played it, I said, "man, that sounds very nice" and had to check the price again to make sure I didn't make a mistake. I sold my last acoustic and am missing it. I think the Martin 12 string will be my next guitar.


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## YellowBrick (Mar 7, 2015)

Holy crap that woman has been demoing Martin Guitars since the ice age, I first met her at NAMM in 1990! But I digress. I am looking for a reasonably priced acoustic as well after a long hiatus. Started visiting a few shops the other day and I saw a few of those high pressure laminate Martin. I left totally unimpressed by the build quality. They were cheap for sure, but I guess you get what you pay for, agreed some may sound nice but my understanding is that high pressure laminate is marketing speech for "tough cardboard"! Honestly I would rather look at the Taylor 100 series. At least it's all wood in there!


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

Ocean7 said:


> Holy crap that woman has been demoing Martin Guitars since the ice age, I first met her at NAMM in 1990! But I digress. I am looking for a reasonably priced acoustic as well after a long hiatus. Started visiting a few shops the other day and I saw a few of those high pressure laminate Martin. I left totally unimpressed by the build quality. They were cheap for sure, but I guess you get what you pay for, agreed some may sound nice but my understanding is that high pressure laminate is marketing speech for "tough cardboard"! Honestly I would rather look at the Taylor 100 series. At least it's all wood in there!


I think most of us would agree that Taylor guitars are more on the treble side of the tonal spectrum and if that is what you like then you will likely not want a Martin. You may enjoy the vid below.


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## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

I've compared the DX1AE to various guitars and while I thought it sounded pretty good it was very quiet.

I thought the new Yamaha FG830 and FG820 were better overall and are way cheaper at $349 and $399.

Also isn't it made from sawdust and a picture of wood?


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

Well, today I went and tried out a few of the acoustics mentioned in this thread. I played the Martin DX1AE, the Yamaha FG820, the Taylor 110e and also the Yamaha LL6ARE and A1M. They are all very decent guitars IMHO. I was quite surprised at the Taylor as I had played it before and wasn't too impressed by it. The one that impressed me the most was the Yamaha A1M. The sustain was quite something and was still ringing as I put it back on the hook. The Martin DX1AE was next followed by the Yamaha LL6ARE. The FG820 and Taylor 110e were about on par. I truly want a 12 string acoustic as my next guitar so I think I am on a Yamaha trek now.


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## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

Everything I've read says the LL6s are good for fingerstyle but not good for strumming. would you agree?


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

Guncho, I'm not a good enough player to be able to give a qualified opinion on that. I did play some scales on it but mostly strumming and it sounded fine when I was strumming but the A1M was noticeably better but I believe it is a premier line in relation to the FG series.


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## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

Other than the Engelmann Spruce top on the L series Yamaha vs the Adirondack Spruce on the FG series I'm not sure what the big differences are other than price. The LL6 and The LA1M don't have solid wood back and sides.


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

Guncho said:


> Other than the Engelmann Spruce top on the L series Yamaha vs the Adirondack Spruce on the FG series I'm not sure what the big differences are other than price. The LL6 and The LA1M don't have solid wood back and sides.


There must be something about it that is internally different unless the top that is picked for the LL6 and A1M are select pieces. It was quite noticeable. One thing on the physical looks of the LL6 I didn't like was the cream binding. To me that colour always looks like the faded plastic you see on a lot of the older microwaves, so to me, it has a cheap look. I just can't get my mind past it. (Maybe it's because I was microwaving before I was playing guitar.)


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## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

Yamaha FG830
Body Shape: Traditional Western
Scale Length: 650mm (25 9/16")
Body Length: 505mm (19 7/8")
Total Length: 1038mm (40 7/8")
Body Width: 412mm (16 1/4")
Body Depth: 100-118mm (3 15/16"- 4 5/8")
Nut Width: 43mm (1 11/16")
String Spacing: 11.0mm
Top Material: Solid Spruce
Back Material: Rosewood
Side Material: Rosewood
Neck Material: Nato
Fingerboard Material: Rosewood
Fingerboard Radius: R400mm (23 5/8")
Bridge Material: Rosewood
Nut Material: Urea
Saddle Material: Urea
Bridge Pins: Black ABS with White Dot
Tuners: Die-cast Chrome (TM29T)
Body Binding: Cream
Soundhole Inlay: Abalone w/ Black + White
Pickguard: Tortoise Pattern
Body Finish: Gloss
Neck Finish: Matt
Electronics: None
Controls: None
Connections: None
Strings: .012/.016/.025(or.024)/.032/.042/.052(or.053)
Color: Natural
Accessories: Hex Wrench
Case: None

Yamaha LL6ARE
Color: Natural, Black, Brown Sunburst, Dark Tinted
Finish: Urethane
Top: Solid Engelmann Spruce A.R.E.
Back: Rosewood
Side: Rosewood
Neck: Mahogany & Rosewood 5ply
Fingerboard: Rosewood
Body Depth: 100-125 mm (3 15/16"-4 15/16")
Nut Width: 44mm (1 3/4")
String Length: 650 mm (25 9/16")
Body: Dreadnought Type
Tuners: Die-cast Gold (TM-29G)
Standard Accessary: Gigbag
Bridge: Rosewood
Pickups: SRT Zero Impact Pickup
Pick Guard: Tortoise


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Guncho said:


> Other than the Engelmann Spruce top on the L series Yamaha vs the *Adirondack Spruce on the FG series* I'm not sure what the big differences are other than price. The LL6 and The LA1M don't have solid wood back and sides.


I would question that claim. Adi spruce is about the top of the spruce tops (pun not intended but leaving it anyways) - usually only found on fairly expensive guitars. 

The specs you post don't specifically say Adi for the FG, while the LL specifies Engelmann, generally a lesser species. I think if the FG had Adi, it would be bolded in the spec sheet, marked on the label inside, stamped on the case and shipping box and probably inlayed on the neck.


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## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

You're right. Spruce from undetermined area.

The point was more not sure what on the L6ARE justifies an extra $300. Pickup?


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

The Engelmann would be an upcharge compared to 'spruce of unknown origin'. And that is your speaker diaphragm, that's what produce the majority of the tone. Probably a few other better specs. And the pickup. 

The thing with acoustics is, once it's built, there's not much to make it better afterwards (strings excepted), like changing pups and caps and controls etc on an electric. The wood is everything in an acoustic, IME.


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## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

Is Englemann spruce better than normal spruce or does it just sound different?

My understanding of the differences between the two lines is:
Yamaha FG: Better for strumming
Yamaha L: Better for fingerstyle

I don't think I've actually played an L. I'll try one next chance I get.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

I don't know the hierarchy, but I think 'branded' spruce, like German or Engelmann or Adirondack, is consider better sounding than 'just spruce'. Of course, better is in the ear of the beholder. 

Same with other wood grades. Does Brazilian RW really sound better than East Indian? Does Cuban mahogany really sound better than Honduran? Only our ears can answer that question. But the market perception and price upcharges are real when you get into 'better wood'.


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

High/Deaf said:


> I don't know the hierarchy, but I think 'branded' spruce, like German or Engelmann or Adirondack, is consider better sounding than 'just spruce'. Of course, better is in the ear of the beholder.


When you say "just spruce", are you referring to Sitka?



High/Deaf said:


> Same with other wood grades. Does Brazilian RW really sound better than East Indian? Does Cuban mahogany really sound better than Honduran? Only our ears can answer that question. But the market perception and price upcharges are real when you get into 'better wood'.


I don't think one necessarily sounds better than the other. Some players rely on a particular tonewood for a purpose. I tend to like adi tops due to the tendency for it to be brighter sounding and more headroom than Sitka. Adi with Brazilian can give you that tone that vintage traditionalists love. Unfortunately due to the rarity of such guitar tonewoods its a huge cost. I'm a bluegrass player so I like that vintage sound. I settle for a guitar with adirondack top and Madagascar back and sides and a guitar with adirondack top and mahogany back and sides. Thats what it takes to get me where I'm going. 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with Sitka and east indian rosewood. My HD28V was a fabulous sounding guitar. Very sweet, mellow, dark and complex over tones. In a bluegrass jam it just wouldn't cut and stand out like it should. My current D-28 easily keeps up to the volume of a banjo. My HD28V could not. But at home playing by myself it was amazing. 
A couple weeks ago I played a custom D-28 with adi top and cocobolo back and sides that was very nice. If I could have afforded another guitar I might have snagged it.
So whether one tonewood sounds better is an individual preference.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

guitarman2 said:


> When you say "just spruce", are you referring to Sitka?


I dunno. Ask Yamaha.

Yamaha FG830
Body Shape: Traditional Western
Scale Length: 650mm (25 9/16")
Body Length: 505mm (19 7/8")
Total Length: 1038mm (40 7/8")
Body Width: 412mm (16 1/4")
Body Depth: 100-118mm (3 15/16"- 4 5/8")
Nut Width: 43mm (1 11/16")
String Spacing: 11.0mm
*Top Material: Solid Spruce*




> I don't think one necessarily sounds better than the other. Some players rely on a particular tonewood for a purpose. I tend to like adi tops due to the tendency for it to be brighter sounding and more headroom than Sitka. Adi with Brazilian can give you that tone that vintage traditionalists love. Unfortunately due to the rarity of such guitar tonewoods its a huge cost. I'm a bluegrass player so I like that vintage sound. I settle for a guitar with adirondack top and Madagascar back and sides and a guitar with adirondack top and mahogany back and sides. Thats what it takes to get me where I'm going.
> There is absolutely nothing wrong with Sitka and east indian rosewood. My HD28V was a fabulous sounding guitar. Very sweet, mellow, dark and complex over tones. In a bluegrass jam it just wouldn't cut and stand out like it should. My current D-28 easily keeps up to the volume of a banjo. My HD28V could not. But at home playing by myself it was amazing.
> A couple weeks ago I played a custom D-28 with adi top and cocobolo back and sides that was very nice. If I could have afforded another guitar I might have snagged it.
> So whether one tonewood sounds better is an individual preference.


Perhaps you missed this part of my post?


> Of course, better is in the ear of the beholder.


Or this?


> Only our ears can answer that question.


Sorry I wasn't clearer that 'which tonewood sounds better is an individual preference'.


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

High/Deaf said:


> I dunno. Ask Yamaha.
> 
> Yamaha FG830
> Body Shape: Traditional Western
> ...


If they're just saying "Spruce", generically, I guess I'd assume that its whatever they could get the cheapest or due to availability. Meaning that they're probably using several different species.


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

High/Deaf said:


> Perhaps you missed this part of my post?
> 
> 
> Or this?
> ...


ummmm, yeah. I get that. I'm agreeing with you, not arguing with you.


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

guitarman2 said:


> If they're just saying "Spruce", generically, I guess I'd assume that its whatever they could get the cheapest or due to availability. Meaning that they're probably using several different species.


That makes sense.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

guitarman2 said:


> ummmm, yeah. I get that. I'm agreeing with you, not arguing with you.


Ooops, my bad.

I thought you were taking issue with my comments - although they did seem aligned with yours. Silly internet comms, easy to miss the subtleties of real discourse.

I, too, am preferring Adi tops lately, for their headroom and clarity. My main acoustic has a cedar top. While nice sounding, it overloads pretty easily. Of course, you can't compare spruce and cedar anyways, totally different sounds.


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## Gimper (Jan 14, 2016)

I'm pretty happy with my X-Series. And I do agree there are many nice guitars around that price range. Then again, I really like my S&P Songsmith Folk as well, and it was about half the price of the Martin.


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## sakuarius102 (Nov 23, 2016)

Tha mexicans Martins sound good but I prefer Seagull, Sigma or Yamaha for that money


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## Gimper (Jan 14, 2016)

Guncho said:


> I've compared the DX1AE to various guitars and while I thought it sounded pretty good it was very quiet.


I'd agree with your quietness comment... with the Martin Lifespan strings. However, when I put Elixir Nanoweb on mine... it seemed to wake up.


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