# What do you gain when you jump up to a approx $2K Acoustic guitar?



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

I'm playing acoustic almost exclusively now and have been for several months; probably from around lock down time in March. I currently have a Ami Cedar parlour an S&P Woodland Pro dread. I'm thinking of adding another acoustic; maybe sized between the two, with electronics. I'm considering a cutaway design as well, but am not sure if I need/want that.

What can I expect to be 'better' about a more expensive instrument? Do they sound more full, is the tone cleaner and/or more clear? What is it that you get when you move up? I'm a plain Jane kind of guy, so I wouldn't be going crazy with exotic wood and inlay. I'm looking for a step up in tone (but is that real?) and maybe playability. I wouldn't mind supporting a Canadian builder; in fact that would be cool.

So what does a price jump get you in an acoustic? Or is it often not worth it? Thanks for your input.


----------



## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

I’m just dictating this into my phone so it’s gonna be a bit scruffy.

I have a D 18, DH28V, and HD 35. I also have a sigma DR 28 V which is kinda a Martin copy and a Norman six string something or other.

The tone from the Martin guitars is very much better than the other two that I mentioned. Much fuller tone and difficult to describe in words but side to side they are quite a bit better. Also, Martin has its own kind of sound. However the Sigma cost $650 and that is about what the tax is on an HD 28V.

So are those guitars proportionately better as per the difference in cost – not really. But it’s worth it to me particilarly as what I do is just vocal and guitar no band or duo etc.

If the only thing I could afford was the Sigma guitar I would be able to get along pretty good with just that.

Another thing too is that if you go and play in a bar somewhere through the house PA there’s a good chance that your $4000 Martin guitar is not gonna sound its best although it may.

I have the Sigma for playing in shitholes so if I get rolled I won’t be out much cash - it’s a good guitar though and plays and intonates well. The Norman is a good student guitar and that’s all.

As people on guitar forums always say, the only way is to try them and see how it works but sometimes you have to play guitar for a long time to find out how it works with your voice.

I would strongly recommend trying a bunch of standard series Martin guitars. $2000 should get you a used D 18. But the D 18 will sound different than the Rosewood 28 and 35 series. So you need to try them, and try them, and keep trying until you find one.

I use K&K pick ups into a preamp. The Sigma guitar has a K&K and it also has a De Armond magnetic so that if the K&K doesn’t like PA system then I can switch to the magnetic.


----------



## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

The question is too vague. "What would you expect from a $2,000 acoustic"? I've played $500 guitars that sounded as good as $2,000 guitars. My Taylor GS Mini impresses me every time I pick it up. And thats quite a feat since my 2 main guitars are a $10,000 D-28 authentic and an $8,000 D-18 authentic. 
I've played and owned many acoustics in around the $2,000 range. Some of them just sounded dead to me, some sounded great. For $2,000 its unlikely you'd get a Canadian builder (not mass produced) built guitar. 
I find one of the most consistently good sounding guitars is a Martin Standard series D-18. Theres one on Kijiji now for $2,200 that you could probably talk down to 2k. One of my personal favorites in the "affordable" range is the D-18V.
Back before this covid thing started I'd make regular trips to music stores and I'd always be trying guitars in the $300 to $1,500 range and it was surprising how many in those price range I'd find that were good to great sounding guitars. You have to play as many as you can get your hands on in what ever price range you're looking at till you find one that sounds the way you want.


----------



## Alsomooh (Jul 12, 2020)

I’ll start with some of what you don‘t get in a good all solid wood guitar.

No dead spots up the neck (weaker tone or volume at certain frequencies/frets), no strident harsh wirey treble tone, no tubby indistinct bass tones, no unbalanced tone from low to high, no tone sucking materials (lousy saddle and nut material particularly), no crap wood, no corner cutting assembly, no crap hardware, no bling at the expense of tone, no finish flaws and no heavy/thick finish, no fret sprout or other compromise in fret work...etc.

If tone and playability aren’t superb at $1000, look away, or be prepared for some aftermarket adjustments. Once a certain quality threshold of materials, craftsmanship, tone, and playability is reached, the rest is personal taste.


----------



## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

guitarman2 said:


> The question is too vague. "What would you expect from a $2,000 acoustic"? I've played $500 guitars that sounded as good as $2,000 guitars.


Like what? Seriously interested.


----------



## JBFairthorne (Oct 11, 2014)

I took the question to mean specific features, different bracing? Solid top? More interesting, or rare woods? Finishes etc.


----------



## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

There's no guarantee spending more money will get you a better sounding or playing guitar. When I was looking for my forever guitar I tried a Taylor 310e, a Larivee D-05, a Gibson Hummingbird and some Martin D-16 series guitars and thought they all sounded like crap. On the other end of the spectrum a Yamaha FG830 and a S&P Showcase Mahogany sounded great. Ultimately it came down to a D-18 or a D-28 and I went with the D-18. I can't imagine a better sounding guitar but it all comes down to personal preference.


----------



## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

JBFairthorne said:


> I took the question to mean specific features, different bracing? Solid top? More interesting, or rare woods? Finishes etc.


I was responding to this. " I've played $500 guitars that sounded as good as $2,000 guitars."

As in tell me about me more about these $500 guitars that sounded as good as $2000 guitars. I want to check them out.


----------



## bw66 (Dec 17, 2009)

I've always said that after $1000-1200 you're not paying for a better guitar anymore - you're paying for bling, or a name on a headstock, or a custom build. A thousand dollars can get you good woods, quality construction, and first rate set-up. My personal favourite in the quality versus price equation is the Simon & Patrick Showcase series.


----------



## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

bw66 said:


> I've always said that after $1000-1200 you're not paying for a better guitar anymore - you're paying for bling, or a name on a headstock, or a custom build. A thousand dollars can get you good woods, quality construction, and first rate set-up. My personal favourite in the quality versus price equation is the Simon & Patrick Showcase series.


I totally disagree.

I would look at it more like a $1000 might get you a guitar that's a 7 or 8 in terms of sound and playability but it will never get you a 10. Is it worth it to spend double or more for 20-30% better? Well that's personal preference. It was for me.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

$2k should get you better quality materials put together with a bit more care.

I tried a $2500 larrivee 00 when i got my much cheaper Martin, just to see if the sound was much different. To my untraine ear it was not. They also had different strings, which play a decent role in the sound. My sub-1k martin has a laminate neck, which means the sound wont change as much over time and that i'll have to worry about it less. Not being a primary acoustic player, Im fine with the tradeoff.


----------



## Grainslayer (Sep 26, 2016)

I’ve often wondered the same question with electrics.Sometimes the prices just baffle me🤔


----------



## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

bw66 said:


> I've always said that after $1000-1200 you're not paying for a better guitar anymore - you're paying for bling, or a name on a headstock, or a custom build. A thousand dollars can get you good woods, quality construction, and first rate set-up. My personal favourite in the quality versus price equation is the Simon & Patrick Showcase series.


It can depend on what you're looking for--and what you feel abel to spend.
There are $2000+ acoustics I'd love to have, and if I could afford them they would be worth it to me.

But on the other hand, what I am looking for & what I like would be served by a less expensive guitar.

Many years ago I played an S&P (Forget which model) and a similar sized Martin.
Both had the same top & neck woods (Back & sides were cherry on the S&P--probably rosewood on the Martin, but I don't recall)
The Martin played better, sounded better & felt better--but cost 4 times the S&P.
Was it 4 times better sounding? or 4 times better playing?
No, it was less than twice as good sounding. 
if I had bought one of them I'd likely have bought the S&P, because I did really like it--and it was more in the range I'd be able to spend.
But some would have bought the Martin & it would have made sense to do so.


----------



## NashvilleDeluxe (Feb 7, 2018)

I get to play a LOT of different guitars that come through the workshop. It really does come down to the particular guitar you are holding...some have mojo, some can get there with some work/thought, and others just...don't have it. 

Generalizations:
1) Once you hit the 3-Series...a Taylor sounds like a Taylor, pretty much across the lineup. Zingy, midrange-focused, good string-to-string balance. Their neck joint system, soundboard bracing and TUSQ nut/saddle contribute to those. Above that, you're just paying for exotic woods and bling. A used 3 series should be in your $ range...if you like that sound. I am not a fan of the ES electronics (versions 1 and 2)...a LOT of gadgetry to produce a ho-hum sound, and all manner of misery when they aren't working well. including rattling parts, sympathetic ringing from metal plates, etc. A Baggs Anthem or K&K sound better with much less wizardry. BTW, this malarkey of "...but a Martin can't play as well a Taylor" is marketing hype. I suspect people are comparing off-the-shelf Martin D styles versus Taylor cutaways and like the access to the upper register, and the Elixir strings vs whatever vintage of string is on the Martin in the store. Recommended setup values are the SAME for both companies, but Martins are delivered a smidge on the high side. Take it to a good tech! When you buy a car, they don't adjust the seat and mirrors for your body size. 

2) Martins: there are good ones, great ones and outstanding ones. A good setup, judicious string choice, lots of playing time and AGE are factors. Tone-killers on Martins are too much neck relief, improper hydration, the wrong type of string, and occasionally a saddle with a dull-sounding bone/micarta piece. Martin owners: next string change, drop your saddle onto a marble/granite counter and listen to it. It should have a nice, sharp ring to it. If it just "thuds," you've found an area to improve. It's more common than you'd think. I would buy a good-sounding used Martin and sink some time/$ into getting it into the "great" category.

I could prattle on and on, but those are the two divisive brands in the acoustic world. Will, from La Grange Guitar Workshop.


----------



## nman (Sep 14, 2019)

Agree..some more expensive guitars can sound dull and dead...even two Taylors I've played. You have to try them out before buying. I've had a cheap Ibanez, Tradition, and Yamaha. Sounded good, played practically as nice as my Taylor and Martin, but cheap guitars can go downhill in a few years...chronic neck problems, bodie warp, bridges pull up, tuners get wobbly, etc. For 2K you probably will get a better build...will last decades...will remain adjustable, and the tone may improve over time.


----------



## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

bw66 said:


> I've always said that after $1000-1200 you're not paying for a better guitar anymore - you're paying for bling, or a name on a headstock, or a custom build. A thousand dollars can get you good woods, quality construction, and first rate set-up. My personal favourite in the quality versus price equation is the Simon & Patrick Showcase series.



I have to disagree with this as well. There is so much variation from guitar to guitar even among the same models. Higher priced guitars don't necessarily mean better as even among higher priced it could be a dog. The acoustics I own were hand made creations of prewar guitars to the most exacting specs ever done on a Martin reissue. Lightly built, hide glue, premium woods, etc. The more special attention like that costs a lot of money. The prewar company guitars cost even more to make. The consistency is far better so its hard to get a bad one. I think out of all the specs the thing that makes these guitars stand out is how lightly built they are. My Martins just seem to vibrate and resonate like no other guitar I've ever owned. 
The authentic series guitars are on a far greater level than the Martin standard series. To me it was worth it. To other players they're happy with a Standard series or below. 
I've played some cheaper yamahas that in my opinion sounded as good as a D-28 sitting right next to it. Could have been the yamaha was exceptional and that particular Martin was not up to par.
I get out to a lot of music stores playing different guitars for the enjoyment. With D-28's its hit and miss. But the D-18 standard in my opinion is great guitar. I'm not sure I've played a bad one. When I judge a d-28 standard next to my authentic d-28 there is a miles of difference. When I judge a d-18 standard next to my d-18 authentic (which is actually my favorite guitar) the divide is not so big. I think the D-18 standard is one of the best value guitars Martin makes. If you're in to mahogany that is. 
There should be a major difference between a $1,000 acoustic and a $2,000 acoustic. Usually there is but not always.


----------



## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

NashvilleDeluxe said:


> I get to play a LOT of different guitars that come through the workshop. It really does come down to the particular guitar you are holding...some have mojo, some can get there with some work/thought, and others just...don't have it.
> 
> Generalizations:
> 1) Once you hit the 3-Series...a Taylor sounds like a Taylor, pretty much across the lineup. Zingy, midrange-focused, good string-to-string balance. Their neck joint system, soundboard bracing and TUSQ nut/saddle contribute to those. Above that, you're just paying for exotic woods and bling. A used 3 series should be in your $ range...if you like that sound. I am not a fan of the ES electronics (versions 1 and 2)...a LOT of gadgetry to produce a ho-hum sound, and all manner of misery when they aren't working well. including rattling parts, sympathetic ringing from metal plates, etc. A Baggs Anthem or K&K sound better with much less wizardry. BTW, this malarkey of "...but a Martin can't play as well a Taylor" is marketing hype. I suspect people are comparing off-the-shelf Martin D styles versus Taylor cutaways and like the access to the upper register, and the Elixir strings vs whatever vintage of string is on the Martin in the store. Recommended setup values are the SAME for both companies, but Martins are delivered a smidge on the high side. Take it to a good tech! When you buy a car, they don't adjust the seat and mirrors for your body size.
> ...



I can speak to the Martins as I've played them all my life. One thing that I would personally add as a tone killer and its just my opinion, is that an adjustable truss rod is a deal breaker for me. There are some small things that I prefer as well such as solid pins with a notched bridge instead of slotted pins. The other things you mentioned as tone killers I agree with. I find my Martins very sensitive to humidity changes. I think my Martins sound best with the humidity between 35 to 40% which is where I try to keep it all winter. Yes its slightly below the recommended 45 to 55% but I've never had a problem with my Martins. During the summer months when the humidity is high my Martins aren't as lively sounding.
One issue getting back to the adjustable truss rod versus reinforcing bar. When I used to own my HD28V (which was a beautiful sounding guitar) every summer the action would raise up to almost unplayable action and during the winter if I let it dry out to around 30% the strings would start to buzz. Yeah that neck would move a lot. With the Martins I own now with reinforcing truss rod, not adjustable, those necks don't move at all. Once the relief on those necks are set there is no need to adjust.


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Expensive guitars can warp too.


----------



## Jim Wellington (Sep 3, 2017)

nbs2005 said:


> What can I expect to be 'better' about a more expensive instrument?


Solid wood tops, possibly the sides and back too. Most probably ebony or rosewood for the fret board. Better tuners. Possibly bone nuts and saddles. Step into the $4000 range...better quality wood, nicer appointments etc. Tone, sustain, clarity...



nbs2005 said:


> Do they sound more full, is the tone cleaner and/or more clear? What is it that you get when you move up? I'm a plain Jane kind of guy, so I wouldn't be going crazy with exotic wood and inlay. I'm looking for a step up in tone (but is that real?) and maybe playability. I wouldn't mind supporting a Canadian builder; in fact that would be cool.


I`ve had 6 Martin`s and one Gibson and one Taylor through my hands in the last 4 years...all different. They all supported their price point except for a 2002 D-28 that sounded like it had a head cold regardless of strings etc. It needed a trip to a guy I know who does bracing work in the states, but I sold it instead and used the cash to buy a superb HD-28 V. I have a 1976 HD-28 and a 2010 HD-28V....There`s a little more sparkle in the top end of the HD-28V, ya gotta play `em to know.

I would try playing guitars with scalloped and un-scalloped bracing as there is a big difference in sound. With unplugged acoustics, in the immortal words of Kim Mitchell "What you hear, is what you hear." 
I think Taylor has an edge in $2000 price point for a gigging guitar, electronics and laminated back and sides might be a better choice for working outside the home. I`m not a fan of Taylor tone, but amps and preamps make all things possible.


----------



## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

guitarman2 said:


> One issue getting back to the adjustable truss rod versus reinforcing bar. When I used to own my HD28V (which was a beautiful sounding guitar) every summer the action would raise up to almost unplayable action and during the winter if I let it dry out to around 30% the strings would start to buzz. Yeah that neck would move a lot. With the Martins I own now with reinforcing truss rod, not adjustable, those necks don't move at all. Once the relief on those necks are set there is no need to adjust.


That hasn't been my experience with them but I use a dehumidifier in the summer when needed as well as a humidifier in the winter. Year round it's btw 45 and 50 although I'll let it go a little higher in the summer. They do get a bit tubby sounding if they get too wet though.

Main acoustics are: 2011 HD35CS, 2012 D18 and a 2016 HD28V all bought in their respective years. The relief on all them hasn't needed to be adjusted since I first got them. They will go sharp or flat with humidity changes over 24 hours or there about but the action doesn't change noticeably. The electrics are a different mater - the TR needs to be tweaked with season changes but that, I suspect, is because their action is a lot lower.

In any event, I would certainly agree on the D18 standard as being one of the best value guitars out there.


----------



## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

bw66 said:


> I've always said that after $1000-1200 you're not paying for a better guitar anymore - you're paying for bling, or a name on a headstock, or a custom build. A thousand dollars can get you good woods, quality construction, and first rate set-up.


You are not alone:

"You can only build a guitar so good and then you just paying for decoration." -- Glenn MacDougall 

My only acoustic is a $1000, BUT...

If I was making good money playing, or otherwise inclined, I would spend gobs of money on marginally better sound, and yes... decoration. 

Best blanket advice here: try many and buy what you like.


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

Great discussion, thanks. I need to spend some time playing guitars. My first stop will be the Acoustic Room in Hamilton. I'll take my S&P for comparison. Hopefully this week. Thx


----------



## Sketchy Jeff (Jan 12, 2019)

better sustain and tonal range with fuller harmonics 

pickup with less noise clearee wider ranging signal

name recognition

go to a music store with a good acoustic room and play an entry level Fender or other in the size you're considering then play the most expensive instrument they have in that size then pick something in your budget range that has the best sound considering the high and low points you just tried

j


----------



## Ship of fools (Nov 17, 2007)

Look after playing for over 60 years I can tell you that often when you move up to a better guitar not always higher priced ( maybe look at the used market in that range ) you are going to get a much better guitar and the better the sound and the way it plays will also help improve your playing just because you're more often to enjoy the sound and the way it plays.
Don't go into a store and just buy a $2000. guitar play lots of them both new and used and then you'll find the right sound and the right guitar that was meant for you.
I have had guitars in the range of $250 up to 30 times that with my most topping off at over $15,000. and you'll just know when its the right one.
Hope this helps you see where I am going with this.


----------



## mawmow (Nov 14, 2017)

Excellent thread that generated plenty of generously stuffed opinions.

Unfortunately, your question covers almost everything about acoustic guitar construction, from model to wood type and under the hood bracing patterns.

As I see it, the acoustic guitar market evolved so much during the last decade or so, that paying more to get a better guitar is no more a general rule.

I had a 600$ laminate Yamaha dreadnough bought in 1992 when I bought my first solid wood, a Taylor 510 dreadnough in 2006 for 2800$ plus taxes. As time passed, I became a better fingerstyle player, expanded my musical appetite and got many other guitars, including half a dozen of Taylors, a few Martins, Larrivées, Gibsons, Bouchers and some weirdos, most worth around or over two grans on the used market. Two years ago, I needed a cutaway to work the scales up the neck, and my 600$ Eastman AC122ce and 800$ Seagull Performer CW Burnt Umber QIT did the job. I evolved from the regular dreadnough to orchestra size for personal comfort and playability.

Now, I can taste the general rules, with very notable exceptions !
1- Bigger body delivers more bassy sounds while smaller body leads to clearer tones.
My former Yamaha LS-16 ARE sounded cristal clear while the big Taylor 516 and Gibson J-100 were very bassy ! I tried a LL-16 for a less clear sound and did not like it.
2- Ladder bracing delivers less sustain than X-bracing. Now, do not ask me to talk about scallopped bracing... Good ol ladder braced guitars gave the original Delta blues sound.
Quite new Waterloo WL, does sound great though it is ladder braced.
3- You may expect that adding three to five hundred bucks to get a rosewood back (and sides) body instead of Mahogany is worth it : To me, the difference is a matter of taste !
I do not actually like rosewood and my Seagull Performer, Eastman AC122,Taylors 322 and 412 as well as Larrivée L-03 koa have non of these woods as back.
4- Neck shape and action at first fret are a must to look at !
5- It is quite well known that two guitars built side by side may no sound exactly the same :
Gibson J-45 is an apparently well known example. A good player would almost always try before buying.
6- The bottom line is, as a matter of taste and musical style, I now have as much pleasure playing a 600$ guitar as the 4500$ brand new others I had or still own (I never paid that price since I got these on the used market).
P.S. I now generally buy plain guitars, deciding later on which electronics I would have installed in should I want any.


----------



## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

You get better woods (and other materials) and better builders/experience, bulders who know what good wood sounds like before it becomes a guitar and how to use that wood to the best of it's abilities. IMO.

Really, that's all there is to an acoustic guitar. How it's initially built is how it will sound. There is no simple spec of 'Sitka top / EIR body' or whatever that all sounds the same. Specs are for mass-produces items. 

Strings, of course, make a big difference. Saddles and bridge pins can be changed for minor differences. But unlike electric, there is very little upgrade path. If the guitar isn't built to it's maximum sonic abilities, there is no way afterwards to get it there.

I've played quite a few guitars in the $5k to $20k range, and a lot of them didn't have any bling at all. To think that's all your gonna get for your money after a certain price point is wrong. Some of those Ryans, Froggy Bottoms and Lowdens were mind-blowing (not to mention a bunch of other great handmade builders). The Ryans can be quite blingy, with fluted bevels etc, but many of the others were just really, really good wood assembled by experts in the art of handcrafting guitars. That may matter you, maybe not. Play what you love and love what you play.


----------



## allthumbs56 (Jul 24, 2006)

Just coming from a thread about $9,000 bicycles .................................. oh the parallels


----------



## silvertonebetty (Jan 4, 2015)

From what I found over the years is price doesn’t always mean better. Like I had a acoustic from the 60s made in Finland. It was an old espana parlour size guitar that sold for $175 . The sad thing is it played better than any Gibson I tried on the store wall . There’s nothing wrong with Canadian or Mexican made guitars . If it’s for more of an investment look at the used market. I got a used 96 Taylor 810 for $1500. And I wasn’t even looking for a Taylor. I guess the lesson is try all that you can . Don’t be set on a brand or price range because you will always miss the diamond in the rust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Brunman (Apr 12, 2019)

nbs2005 said:


> I'm looking for a step up in tone (but is that real?) and maybe playability. I wouldn't mind supporting a Canadian builder; in fact that would be cool.
> 
> So what does a price jump get you in an acoustic? Or is it often not worth it? Thanks for your input.



If your looking for a Canadian builder make sure you check out the SeaGull guitars. I have owned one of the CW professional artist series with spruce top and rosewood back for years and still get comments on the sound from other musicians. If you get the chance play their top end and see if it is the improvement your looking for. As mentioned in previous comments its all personal preference, Good Luck in your search.


----------



## BEACHBUM (Sep 21, 2010)

I'll admit to being a little slow on the uptake but finally after 50+ years of playing I decided that these two had to go for the reason that they were tying up far to much money for no particular advantage over what I found to replace them.

Taylor 810 LTD









Martin DC Aura









Guild solid wood D140CE = $950 and I don't feel like I'm missing a thing


----------



## BMW-KTM (Apr 7, 2015)

bw66 said:


> I've always said that after $1000-1200 you're not paying for a better guitar anymore - you're paying for bling, or a name on a headstock....


I used to think that way. I don't anymore. I do believe the price increases much faster than the quality as you go up the scale so each person has to decide for themselves at which point the law of diminishing returns kicks in. It used to kick in for me at about $1,500 but now I think it's probably closer to $5K - $6K. 
If money were no object and the point at which the law kicked in for me was no longer an obstacle, I would absolutely get me one of them $15,000+ Olsons.


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

Got into L & M Burlington. Played Taylors, Gibsons, and Martins. I did not like the Taylors; they played great but I much preferred the Martin and Gibson sound. I played a stripped down D18 style and an actual D18 (just to compare). In Gibson I tried a small concert body, and various J-35 and J-45 styles.

Looking forward to getting over to the acoustic room to try the Breedloves and others.

Jeff

PS So after picking up my Woodland Pro S&P, it sounds really flat. And I just put a nice set of Elixers on it (bought those from L&M). Hmmmmm


----------



## Guncho (Jun 16, 2015)

So what did you like?


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

@Guncho , I played a Martin D-18 and I believe one of the 16 series, but I'm not sure exactly which one; probably a concert size.

I played a few Gibson 45 and 35 models. They also had a really nice deal on a used LG-2, but I wasn't in love with it and the action was pretty high.

Of the guitars I played, if I had to buy one, it would have been the Martin 16. But I'm going to hit the acoustic room and Mtn Music in Hamilton this week.

Oh, and the S&P is sounding better so my comment above may be clouded by the 'new guitar effect' i.e. what I have now is shit ;-) I'm going to bring that along for my next testing to do side by side comparison.


----------



## bw66 (Dec 17, 2009)

nbs2005 said:


> ... I'm going to bring that along for my next testing to do side by side comparison.


That's a good approach. I know that the acoustic room upstairs at Cosmo is an amazing sounding room - I suspect that a Denver would sound pretty good in there - so it's good to do head-to-head comparisons in the same room.


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

bw66 said:


> That's a good approach. I know that the acoustic room upstairs at Cosmo is an amazing sounding room - I suspect that a Denver would sound pretty good in there - so it's good to do head-to-head comparisons in the same room.


I suspect that's a big part of it as well, the room. When I moved to the living room to play, my guitar got a lot better sounding. The Burlington L&M space is new and pretty damn nice.


----------



## silvertonebetty (Jan 4, 2015)

nbs2005 said:


> Got into L & M Burlington. Played Taylors, Gibsons, and Martins. I did not like the Taylors; they played great but I much preferred the Martin and Gibson sound. I played a stripped down D18 style and an actual D18 (just to compare). In Gibson I tried a small concert body, and various J-35 and J-45 styles.
> 
> Looking forward to getting over to the acoustic room to try the Breedloves and others.
> 
> ...


Do you watch the humidity of your s&p ? And I can agree with your Taylor . For the most part I’m not a huge fan but their was just something about that old 810 that I needed to have


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

silvertonebetty said:


> Do you watch the humidity of your s&p ? And I can agree with your Taylor . For the most part I’m not a huge fan but their was just something about that old 810 that I needed to have
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, but I do tend to let it go a little high before getting to worried or putting them in cases. The past couple of days I've been at 55% in the music room.


----------



## silvertonebetty (Jan 4, 2015)

nbs2005 said:


> Yes, but I do tend to let it go a little high before getting to worried or putting them in cases. The past couple of days I've been at 55% in the music room.


Kk because sometimes when they dry out the sound dull .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ship of fools (Nov 17, 2007)

Well you have visited a few shops but have you gone to see any used instruments and honestly I am not a fan of almost all S&P's or their family. I know lots of folks who like them but not I.
And I am not into Taylors I have just not enjoyed the sound of 99% of them so I don't bother checking any of them> Boucher guitars well I have to say wasn't a fan before but my friend in the US was looking at them and I mentioned I thought they were over built but had the good fortune to try a couple very recently and wow not like the ones I have tried before dang if I was still playing out I would have a few in my stable.


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

Made it into the acoustic room today. Mark is a really great guy BTW, very low key. I played 3 Breedloves (Concerto, Concert Sunlight, and Frontier Concert) and a Yari OM Spruce. I described to him that I liked the woody/reedier Martin sound and he suggested those. 

They all played really well. The Concerto was my favourite with the Yari a close second. But that's at the top of my budget and I can't help but think if the Martin sound is really what I like best (and I'm still figuring that out) I should just buy a damn Martin.

This taking my time to buy a guitar is weird ;-) And I'm going to talk to Norm at Gnome guitars on Monday.

Thx


----------

