# Tru Oil finish and water slide decals question



## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

I’m about to do a TruOil finish on a Strat neck. I’m thinking about applying a decal on the headstock. Do I apply first, then finish overtop? I’ll probably want to buff out the finish when I’m done. I don’t know if that’s a good idea, but I also don’t know about putting it on top of an oil finish. Might peel off.

Anyone done this before?


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Sneaky said:


> Do I apply first, then finish overtop?


Finish first, then decal. Clear coat after that.
Putting the decal first would prevent the wood underneath from accepting any finish and would look terrible.


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Finish first.
Levelled with some wet sanding, then another unsanded coat will prevent air from getting trapped under the decal too.
More on top of the decal.


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## Verne (Dec 29, 2018)

For any decal, the smoothest possible surface the better. If you search and read any model building tips about decals, this is the number one way to get the best appearance. In the model world, future floor wax is the go to. Self levels and doesn't yellow over time. The smooth surface doesn't allow air under causing "silvering" in time. Clear coat after as well. Not sure if the future acrylic would work on the headstock, never tried.

I'd suggest the future floor polish, but I couldn't say how it would go down over an oiled wood. You'd have to look that one up.


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## pspguitar (Jan 21, 2021)

I use micro set solution to help the decals edges soften, then bury it in Multiple Coates of Tru oil... light sanding with wet/dry low grit after some coats, all the way up to polish paper


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## Jimmy_D (Jul 4, 2009)

Verne said:


> For any decal, the smoothest possible surface the better. If you search and read any model building tips about decals, this is the number one way to get the best appearance. In the model world, future floor wax is the go to. Self levels and doesn't yellow over time. The smooth surface doesn't allow air under causing "silvering" in time. Clear coat after as well. Not sure if the future acrylic would work on the headstock, never tried.
> 
> I'd suggest the future floor polish, but I couldn't say how it would go down over an oiled wood. You'd have to look that one up.


Just a heads up, In the world of wood finishing and refinishing any wax is suspected to contain finishers kryptonite - silicone, the cause of fish eyes, the only trusted wax is Parowax for preserving food, otherwise choose your wax carefully


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## Verne (Dec 29, 2018)

I know with styrene, it's the preferred, but I admit, I know nothing when it comes to woodworking and what it entails.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

The Micro set stuff acts as a lube so you can slide the decal around. No wax needed


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

I've never had a problem with just putting the decal in warm water, slide it on, align. Even with models as a kid.
One tip that I did pick up, if you're worried about adhesion, is to mix a little carpenter's glue in the water.


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## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

I’ve heard about the white glue trick. I might try that Micro set. Now, if I can only remember where I put that decal five years ago.


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