# Champ rebuild - help



## Stratin2traynor (Sep 27, 2006)

My 73 Champ is getting a little temperamental. After warming up, as soon as I hit it with some gain it starts cutting out. From what I could find online, I am guessing that it could be a cracked input resistor. In any event, I was considering a rebuild since the previous owner tried to rewire it into a tweed Champ. Likely overheated some components hence the cracked/faulty resistor. I could be wrong in my diagnosis but it's what kind of makes sense from what I've read. Haven't played my Champ in months because of this so I'm dying to get it done.

So my questions are: 

Is doing a rebuild a good approach given the likelihood of potential damage to some components?

Should I replace caps and resistors? May do pots as well, not sure yet.

Are rebuild kits a good value compared to shopping for individual parts?

Are there any parts suppliers or rebuild kits that anyone can recommend? I've found Torres Engineering and Triode Electronics


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## keeperofthegood (Apr 30, 2008)

I bought an OT from Triode Electronics. They double dinged my credit card. That is, they placed the hold, then did the sale. Due shipping not being "quite" right. My credit card holds the holds for 2 full weeks before releasing them. Next time I would phone my order in with them  ON the phone the lady I dealt with was very charming (had to ask about the double ding).


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## Scottone (Feb 10, 2006)

could be a component or cold solder joint.

You can usually track those down by poking around with an insulated tool (chopstick works well) and listen for crackling noises This is assuming that you've already tried swapping out the tubes.

I wouldn't go crazy on replacing parts...just fix what is broken. Should be able to find what you need at local parts shops.


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## Stratin2traynor (Sep 27, 2006)

Thanks for the input you guys. I'm pretty sure I did the chop stick test when I first noticed the problem. Couldn't find any issues. What I did find on the web was the description of the input resistor problem and that seem to fit the bill. I've been so busy since then that I haven't had the time to try changing that. In the interest of just getting things done I was going to replace everything. Maybe that is a little too extreme at this point. Especially since Torres wants $150 for all of the part on the board (minus the OT).


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

Torres Engineering (or whatever they're called) has a less than stellar reputation in the amp world. It's possible to have one small inexpensive component that's causing your problem. A good, reasonably-priced tech should be able to repair it for far less than $150.


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## Stratin2traynor (Sep 27, 2006)

Trouble is finding a good tech. I used to bring my amps to Ho's Electronics. Both times the diagnosis was the same: he couldn't recreate the problem. Therefore couldn't fix it. My Champ already cost me a $75 diagnostic fee. I guess I'll give it another go with chop sticks and see what happens.


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## J S Moore (Feb 18, 2006)

That amp has tubes, correct? Have you tried replacing them? In a tube amp that's the first thing I think of when something goes awry. I didn't see tubes mentioned specifically so I thought I would put it out there, apologies if you already explored that avenue.


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

Dave Vidal's your man. This is an old #, not sure if it's current: 604-437-3694. Even though I don't know him, he's responsible for servicing all my Vancouver amps.


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## StevieMac (Mar 4, 2006)

Stratin2traynor said:


> My 73 Champ is getting a little temperamental. After warming up, as soon as I hit it with some gain it starts cutting out. From what I could find online, I am guessing that it could be a cracked input resistor. In any event, I was considering a rebuild since the previous owner tried to rewire it into a tweed Champ.....


Interesting. I recently experienced a similar issue with my tweed Champ clone (BIG drop in volume with intermittent distortion after warm up) and, lo and behold, the input resistor was indeed the culprit. In my case, it was a bad solder connection. If you're able to take the old one out and replace it, I'd start there. If that doesn't work, take J S Moore's advice and start replacing tubes. If neither helps, get it to the tech WCGill mentioned.


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