# wham bam paint job suggestions



## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

I've got a p-bass body down to the wood front and back but still red and heavy poly around the edges, arm and belly contours. I want to paint it black, do an ok job but not with much effort. The goal would be to have the black on the wood stay but wear down around the edges. 

Should I leave the poly glossy? rough it up with sand paper? steel wool? 

what kind of filler do you guys use before painting a wood body? can I just use the Home Depot stuff?

what kind of paint if I want to use a rattle can?


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Rough it up with 400 grit sandpaper.
You don’t want to paint over glossy.
Any kind of wood fill is fine.
I’ve heard of people using drywall mud.

Duplicolor is acrylic lacquer.
Available at crappy tire or partsource.
You will want to prime or seal the bare wood.
I like bullseye primer or the sandable automotive stuff.

Avoid krylon they have changed it.
It’s now an enamel and takes for ever to dry.

Nathan


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

I have some Bondo Plastic Metal on my shelf, can I use that as filler?


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Yes that will work fine.

Nathan


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

+1 for avoiding Krylon. I've never had luck with that stuff.

Ideal Supply/Napa can mix paints for you... I know just after black but the quality I found to be better than Cdn Tire's stuff. You can ask for various types... I painted a Squier with a Single Stage 2K paint they mixed up. Spent an hour trying to find Fender's Olive Green... I have a black PBass Squier, and REALLY wish I had it sanded and ready because I would have painted it as well.

Basically the the single-stage means you don't need a clear coat when done. The 2K means you activate the can and you have 24-48hours to use the can before the chemicals inside harden. It makes the paint dry super fast and quite tough. After a few days to cure, you can wet sand and polish it as well. Also the spray nozzle on the cans are nice and give a good even coat. Downside is... you won't need a full can for a guitar, and after 2 days the can is trash. The antique olive green I got was spot on and ya, shame I didn't have that Squier PBass stripped and sanded... 

Filler wise... for grain? or dents and dings?

I bought Z-Poxy to use for grain filler, saw a lot of YouTube vids for it but not tried it yet. Dents/dings I used Bondo Gold filler.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

THRobinson said:


> +1 for avoiding Krylon. I've never had luck with that stuff.
> 
> Ideal Supply/Napa can mix paints for you... I know just after black but the quality I found to be better than Cdn Tire's stuff. You can ask for various types... I painted a Squier with a Single Stage 2K paint they mixed up. Spent an hour trying to find Fender's Olive Green... I have a black PBass Squier, and REALLY wish I had it sanded and ready because I would have painted it as well.
> 
> ...


Yes I believe that napa is dupont paints - which all of the old fender colours were dupont car paints.

Where did you get the z poxy?

I want to try it as a grain filler/ primer

Thanks

Nathan


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## Cardamonfrost (Dec 12, 2018)

Any grain filler should be OK. I would look around your area for independent sign shops, autobody shops, or weld shops that have a spray booth (most do). They can mix and spray any color you want, likely for a real cheap price. Will be more than doing it yourself, but will be a top notch job.


C


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

nnieman said:


> Yes I believe that napa is dupont paints - which all of the old fender colours were dupont car paints.
> 
> Where did you get the z poxy?
> 
> ...


Not sure what they use... I know for the 2K stuff it's SprayMax cans, but paint, no idea. The Antique Olive ended up being a paint code from an old 1970-72 Toyota. Some reason no one online had the paint code figured out for that one... that or the Satin Jade Mist. Few people posted paints, but didn't seem to understand that just because a company calls their paint the same name, doesn't mean it's the same colour. I'm still trying to find the colour used for that.

Z-Poxy Finishing Resin (hey it's on sale!) I ended up getting off Amazon.ca. I was on a Telecaster forum where I first heard about it, and some jack*** was being, well, a jack*** and giving me grief when I asked what to use for thinning. One of those people that knows everything and you're an idiot for asking... almost every forum has one, but so far this one doesn't. Anyways... I contacted the makers and they said Isopropyl alcohol works for thinning and cleanup. Lots of people said another type of alcohol, Ethanol, but of course it's one of those deals where its easy to get in the USA and harder to find in Canada... Canadian Tire has BIOFLAME which is apparently 95-98% Ethanol if I recall.

Hmm... maybe not... looks like removed from the website. Isopropyl it is then I guess.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

THRobinson said:


> Not sure what they use... I know for the 2K stuff it's SprayMax cans, but paint, no idea. The Antique Olive ended up being a paint code from an old 1970-72 Toyota. Some reason no one online had the paint code figured out for that one... that or the Satin Jade Mist. Few people posted paints, but didn't seem to understand that just because a company calls their paint the same name, doesn't mean it's the same colour. I'm still trying to find the colour used for that.
> 
> Z-Poxy Finishing Resin (hey it's on sale!) I ended up getting off Amazon.ca. I was on a Telecaster forum where I first heard about it, and some jack*** was being, well, a jack*** and giving me grief when I asked what to use for thinning. One of those people that knows everything and you're an idiot for asking... almost every forum has one, but so far this one doesn't. Anyways... I contacted the makers and they said Isopropyl alcohol works for thinning and cleanup. Lots of people said another type of alcohol, Ethanol, but of course it's one of those deals where its easy to get in the USA and harder to find in Canada... Canadian Tire has BIOFLAME which is apparently 95-98% Ethanol if I recall.
> 
> Hmm... maybe not... looks like removed from the website. Isopropyl it is then I guess.


Thanks!

Rexal has 99% iso I use it for mixing shellac flakes.
Also tsc and pot/grow shops.

Nathan


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Yup... ISO is awesome. I use it for so much stuff. Use to sell it at Dollarama but not anymore, they sell rubbing alcohol, but not the Isopropyl stuff. Still, Shoppers Drug Mart does.

I use the 50% ISO and mix it 50/50 with distilled water which is the perfect mix for cleaning LCD screens, tablets, windows etc... no haze, no streak.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

THRobinson said:


> +1 for avoiding Krylon. I've never had luck with that stuff.
> 
> Ideal Supply/Napa can mix paints for you... I know just after black but the quality I found to be better than Cdn Tire's stuff. You can ask for various types... I painted a Squier with a Single Stage 2K paint they mixed up. Spent an hour trying to find Fender's Olive Green... I have a black PBass Squier, and REALLY wish I had it sanded and ready because I would have painted it as well.
> 
> ...


Nice advice! I didn't know about getting custom paints at Napa. So one can of this 2k auto finish can cover 2 bodies?


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Well... I used half on a Strat (Squier). Few coats and came out nice and even, and thick enough I could wet sand and polish. Then attempted a relic... 

That said... I guess depends on how thick the paint and what the guitar is. Having a hole in the back for the trem, and the all the front carved out for pickups and pots, it didn't need a lot of paint. I painted just enough inside the trem cavity to make it green, but barely anything in the front because shielded it.

P-Bass is bigger, but also lots routed out and covered with a pickguard so, a Strat and a PBass I think woulda been fine for 1 can if again, stingy on the parts being covered up.

Oh, found an example... I'm at work so, don't have my photos.

Painted the Squier in Antique Olive, then wet sanded it, and heavy sanded the areas to wear through, then buffed the entire guitar. After this photo was taken, I started to scuff it up and age it. Not sure if I like it or not. Probably selling it and buying another to repaint the same without relic because colour came out nice.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Dip it!


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Send it to Mikey. Let his daughter have fun with it.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

tomee2 said:


> Nice advice! I didn't know about getting custom paints at Napa. So one can of this 2k auto finish can cover 2 bodies?


No.

Don't ever use the bottom third of the can.
It will spit and spoil your paint job.

Only use the top 1/2 to 2/3rds.

- Voice of experience talking

Nathan


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

knight_yyz said:


> Dip it!





laristotle said:


> Send it to Mikey. Let his daughter have fun with it.


gonna be a no to both of those


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

THRobinson said:


>


I like this a lot, including the relic'd look. I was planning to paint mine black and get the last remaining red to come out, somehow, on the armrest but maybe trying one of these fancier colours would look cooler.


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## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

That's a nice looking guitar even with the relic. I'm no fan of the relic look but good on you if you like it. I refinished a guitar recently. Is was just last Tuesday that I shined up the clearcoat with electric powered rotary sander/polisher tool. Meguires compound to remove the scratches from 2000 grit wet sanding process. I had the sponge pad on the rotary for the task. I continued to polish even after the Meguires was rubbed off or dried up because more is better. Well not so! I accidentally burned through the black burst paint here and there after going through the clearcoat 1st, to reveal the red paint beneath. This happened only on the edges of the body and I stopped before I did what i consider to be further damage. The point is, if a man were to do this excessive sponge buffing on the guitar paint job in a controlled manner, lean on it, he could achieve a nice relic effect complete with a graduated feathering off of the top coat of paint. No abrupt unnatural edges but a nice rubbed effect. The sponge wouldn't leave behind any scratches either. Then clearcoat. You could try the process 1st on a piece of smooth solid wood.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Costco also sells 99% isopropyl alcohol cheap.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Thanks... after that pic I roughed it up a bit as well. I didn't want to gouge and scrape paint to go from one layer to the next, because that's not natural looking. Years of your arm rubbing the paint off would make a smooth polished transition, which is why I did that during the wetsanding.

After that, I gave it a few dings and a few gouges/scrapes but nothing too major. I also discovered that the 2K single-stage paint yellows nicely with traditional brown shoe polish after about 20sec, So in spots that wouldn't normally be touched as much, I got a bit of "aging" happening, and used the shoe polish on the pickups as well. Also very minor aging with acid on the chrome bits. 

I wanted an aged but well looked after guitar look. Not an aged, left in the rain fell down the stairs look. 

But not again... I found it difficult to take something smooth and polished and shiny, and purposely damaging it.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

So getting back to this little project. Things got planed and sanded down, filled in with some bondo and sanded down again. primed and sanded down, 400, 800, and 1000. almost certainly unnecessary to go through all of this but I'm just practicing on a cheap guitar to get the feel for it. 

I have a body and headstock ready to go. I'm not looking for pro results but was hoping to get some tips on painting. I plan to just use a car paint rattle can from Canadian Tire. 

Would you guys say a few light coats and be done with it or would you do several coats and sand in between? Any point to build it up like that? 

Any point to a clear coat after or will that add complications I may not want to deal with at this point?

*I don't plan to paint this outside hanging from a tree, little paint booth set up in the garage.

*


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## Ricktoberfest (Jun 22, 2014)

vadsy said:


> So getting back to this little project. Things got planed and sanded down, filled in with some bondo and sanded down again. primed and sanded down, 400, 800, and 1000. almost certainly unnecessary to go through all of this but I'm just practicing on a cheap guitar to get the feel for it.
> 
> I have a body and headstock ready to go. I'm not looking for pro results but was hoping to get some tips on painting. I plan to just use a car paint rattle can from Canadian Tire.
> 
> ...


When I did mine I did a few light coats over the original primer, then 2 coats of clear coat just to help it shine and protect it a bit. Just cheap stuff though. I also never went all th way down to primer but just sanded down to “good enough”. Of course I also did some design under the clear coat with translucent blue stain so the clear lost was to protect that from wiping off too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

After you were done with the paint you applied clearcoat over it? Did you do anything in terms of finishing for the clearcoat after?


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## Ricktoberfest (Jun 22, 2014)

vadsy said:


> After you were done with the paint you applied clearcoat over it? Did you do anything in terms of finishing for the clearcoat after?


No, but I liked the rougher feel. Guitars that are too smooth feel cheap to me. I like it to feel like wood


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Ricktoberfest said:


> No, but I liked the rougher feel. Guitars that are too smooth feel cheap to me. I like it to feel like wood
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


what did you use for a clear coat? glossy, matte, etc


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

vadsy said:


> car paint rattle can from Canadian Tire.


Car paint can be pricey, unless if you want the metallic flake that you can't find elsewhere.
I did three projects using Krylon. One was on a primed surface, like yours, another with a wood sealer base and the third on the scuffed original finish.
I used two cans per project. Wet sand afterwards with 600/1000/1500. No clear, just buffed out.


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## Ricktoberfest (Jun 22, 2014)

vadsy said:


> what did you use for a clear coat? glossy, matte, etc


I think it was a glossy. It’s at home somewhere and I can check later if you wish. I was trying desperately to avoid it feeling like the cheap fenders though that feel like plastic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

vadsy said:


> I have some Bondo Plastic Metal on my shelf, can I use that as filler?


It'll work but not ideal. If it's a solid finish anyway it matters little, but what I would do (cuz I don't have any Bondo) is wet sand using tung or linseed oil (whatever you have on hand for oiling yer fretboard really), then paint over that. Sawdust+oil will fill the grain. Note: no nitro over that though, but anything else is fine.




nnieman said:


> No.
> 
> Don't ever use the bottom third of the can.
> It will spit and spoil your paint job.
> ...


Even if it's a fresh can and freshly mixed from the store? Like old leftovers sure; get that. Honest question.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)




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## tdotrob (Feb 24, 2019)

This thread doesn’t have nearly enough super bright Vegas gold glitter.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Granny Gremlin said:


> It'll work but not ideal. If it's a solid finish anyway it matters little, but what I would do (cuz I don't have any Bondo) is wet sand using tung or linseed oil (whatever you have on hand for oiling yer fretboard really), then paint over that. Sawdust+oil will fill the grain. Note: no nitro over that though, but anything else is fine.


its done at this point. I wanted to use bondo because its been a long time and I like the smell, seriously though its just the hard and fine finish it turns out to be that I like about it. its also cheap.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

who doesn't like the smell of bondo? right?


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

laristotle said:


> Car paint can be pricey, unless if you want the metallic flake that you can't find elsewhere.
> I did three projects using Krylon. One was on a primed surface, like yours, another with a wood sealer base and the third on the scuffed original finish.
> I used two cans per project. Wet sand afterwards with 600/1000/1500. No clear, just buffed out.


so you lay it on in stages, thicken it up and then wet sand and buff?


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

vadsy said:


> so you lay it on in stages, thicken it up and then wet sand and buff?


I did three coats at a time, let dry, wet sand with 600, repeat until there's no orange peel. Then continue with 1000/1500, even 2000 if you want.
Basically, stop spraying when you're happy with where it's at.
I'm not a perfectionist though.
Hopefully, some with more pro level experience will chime in.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

laristotle said:


> I did three coats at a time, let dry, wet sand with 600, repeat until there's no orange peel. Then continue with 1000/1500, even 2000 if you want.
> Basically, stop spraying when you're happy with where it's at.
> I'm not a perfectionist though.
> Hopefully, some with more pro level experience will chime in.


thats good enough for me,. plenty more actually than I'm willing to put in on this project. this one is about some trial an error, maybe a little learning.

I'm spraying with Dupli-Color and depending on what it looks like I may leave it alone, maybe a light buff after it cures. I did get interested when I dude I played with told me about the 2K paints that are activated and provide some harder clear coats but all from a spray can. It may be worth checking out but I'll leave that for later.

if anyone has used any of the 2K stuff I'd love to hear from you


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I did a crappy-tire rattle-can paint job about a month ago. It worked out really well, nice finish. I sprayed about 3 coats of colour on it, lightly sanding with 600 between coats, then hit it with 3 coats of clear (also crappy tire auto paint). Wet sand, hand buff, good to go. 
It's not cheap though. They're charging $14 for those spray bombs now.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Lincoln said:


> I did a crappy-tire rattle-can paint job about a month ago. It worked out really well, nice finish. I sprayed about 3 coats of colour on it, lightly sanding with 600 between coats, then hit it with 3 coats of clear (also crappy tire auto paint). Wet sand, hand buff, good to go.
> It's not cheap though. They're charging $14 for those spray bombs now.


Thanks!

oh yea,. its gone crazy. I used to buy a six pack of rattles at Greggs and spray the bridge for like 18 bucks...


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I want to "play" with this stuff

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dupli-color-effex-specialty-paint-0478392p.html


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

avoid this stuff. It doesn't work worth a crappolla.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dupli-color-metalcast-paint-311g-0477445p.html?rrec=true#spc

I bought a can because of the cool colour, didn't read the can of course. You have to spray whatever you're painting with chrome spray paint first. That's only a tinted clear. 
And it looks like shit no matter how hard I tried to get on evenly.


Why can't gloss paint go on as nicely as flat paint does? That would be awesome.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Lincoln said:


> avoid this stuff. It doesn't work worth a crappolla.
> 
> https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dupli-color-metalcast-paint-311g-0477445p.html?rrec=true#spc
> 
> ...


10-4, will do.

Thats my hesitation with shooting clear coat after, its tougher to apply and often ruins a project in my experience, starting over is hard.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Granny Gremlin said:


> It'll work but not ideal. If it's a solid finish anyway it matters little, but what I would do (cuz I don't have any Bondo) is wet sand using tung or linseed oil (whatever you have on hand for oiling yer fretboard really), then paint over that. Sawdust+oil will fill the grain. Note: no nitro over that though, but anything else is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes.
It’s totally wasteful (which I hate) but the bottom 1/3rd of the can is always spitty.
I don’t know if the propellant is running low or what.
I have had really good luck using my methods.... even with sparkly colours.

Nathan


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

vadsy said:


> Thats my hesitation with shooting clear coat after, its tougher to apply and often ruins a project in my experience, starting over is hard.


If you can lay the guitar flat when you shoot the clear, it really helps. You can go way heavier without a run. You just have to do both sides, so it take twice as long.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

nnieman said:


> the bottom 1/3rd of the can is always spitty


Lack of pressure?
A diy here. Caution, do at own risk.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

laristotle said:


> Lack of pressure?
> A diy here. Caution, do at own risk.


wow, way more balls than brains!


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Do they still have Darwin awards?


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## Farmboyjo (Aug 26, 2016)

Just tried using this for clear, and it worked great. No runs at all as you wipe them off. I did about 4 coats to get nice and shiny.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

nice finish on that guitar.


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## Farmboyjo (Aug 26, 2016)

Thanks. Depending how the weekend goes I might get a build thread posted. It’s taken me too long to get to this point and planning on a flurry of activity to finish things off.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Farmboyjo said:


> It’s taken me too long to get to this point and planning on a flurry of activity to finish things off.


lol, tell me about it..


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

laristotle said:


> Lack of pressure?
> A diy here. Caution, do at own risk.


For the love of gawd please do not ever do that
Like ever.


Nathan


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

slapped up a paint booth and hooked it up to a vacuum, first coat


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

vadsy said:


> slapped up a paint booth and hooked it up to a vacuum


I'd like to see that set up.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

nnieman said:


> For the love of gawd please do not ever do that
> Like ever.
> 
> 
> Nathan


Why? I would lower the air pressure down, and hold the can in a plastic bag, but other that popping a hole in the can and the contents spraying out the hole, what bad things can happen?


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Risk of explosion to save $6 worth of paint hardly seems worth it.
My wife’s cousin had a spray bomb explode on him. It was a big deal.
It has a lot more force than you realize.

If you really want to save money on paint Canadian tire sells spray guns.
I think I got mine for $40 on sale - it worked so well I went back and bought a second one.
A small trim compressor will provide more than enough air to paint a guitar body.
Not a car, but definitely do a guitar body.

Nathan


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

nnieman said:


> Risk of explosion to save $6 worth of paint hardly seems worth it.
> My wife’s cousin had a spray bomb explode on him. It was a big deal.
> It has a lot more force than you realize.
> 
> ...


The cans are out of pressure, then filled up with air... I did a quick check online and spray cans are around 70-100 psi. Put in 60 psi I don't see a problem if you hold the body of the can in a garbage bag when filling it.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

laristotle said:


> I'd like to see that set up.


I was going to use a washer/dryer/fridge box but couldn't locate one on short notice. The bike shop did have a bunch of boxes they said I could have, the bonus was the cardboard was thicker but unfortunately not as large. I combined two and made a filter (furnace) box that I tried to seal off inside and outside to make as airtight as possible. The reason for the depth was a backup plan, in case the hose didn't do the trick I was going to mount the vacuum body right to the box and suck directly but in this case the glory hole sucks fine. Cut a piece of the top out to allow an easy hang access. I used tape and particle board screws to piece it together, took an hour and two beers. second coat


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

That's cool. And that small hose does the trick, eh?! 
I have an old industrial exhaust fan that I've been wanting to use for a similar set up, but that may be overkill seeing yours. lol
Are the lamps for you to see what you're doing, or do they give off some heat for the drying?


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

laristotle said:


> That's cool. And that small hose does the trick, eh?!
> I have an old industrial exhaust fan that I've been wanting to use for a similar set up, but that may be overkill seeing yours. lol
> Are the lamps for you to see what you're doing, or do they give off some heat for the drying?


does the trick. I was going to use a larger bathroom fan I was saving but I'm pretty sure I misplaced it by putting git in the trash a couple of years ago . The vacuum works and its just a smaller Rigid.
The lamps are just for light, they're LED and basically don't give off any heat.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

I like the setup, but im not sure about using a shop vac with flammable materials. A room fan might be better as at least there's no closed volume of air.


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## Moosehead (Jan 6, 2011)

As an hvac guy id go full monty and use an old furnace blower (if you pass someone doing a job they would most likely give you the old furnace). Overkill for a one off on a guitar body but could use as a fume hood for a variety of projects. Or more guitar bodies!! 

I like the shop vac set up with bike boxes for an impromptu set up.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

weekend full of distractions, more to follow, but I got some work done on the bass. at this point it is 3-4 coats in, smooth but not baby bottom. I really want to go all the way to clear coat and wrap this thing up with a bow but I'm afraid to ruin it.

questions.

-Should I wet sand a tiny wee bit and do another coat of paint before clear or just do clear as is now?
-Will the clear be forgiving and give me a smoother than the current finish or do I need to prep it better for that to happen?
-Wet sand and buff and then clear coat?
-Can I do multiple coats of clear?

Seriously, I'm hesitant and don't wanna screw it up so ...

picture.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

the distractions, but all good, because I need them as the Covid has kept us from the lake and community we miss.

smoked a baby armadillo, it was delicious 


















neighbour asked for a hand getting a Filmo mounted in an ammo can, project still ongoing but we popped some speed vent holes for the hotness to escape


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

lastly,. a Rusty Anderson 335 stopped by and it is an amazing guitar. Beautiful looking piece top to bottom and back to front, incredible neck on this thing. The owner has a Thornbucker in the neck, splittable, surprisingly bright even in humbucker mode. pictures and even some wanking around clips for you guys, just raw recording dragged together after goofing for a while


































clean-ish, flip through the pickups and some delay at the end

__
https://soundcloud.com/https%3A%2F%2Fsoundcloud.com%2Ftom-jones2012%2Frusty-andy-clean

wanted to compare my loved OD3 with an SD1 I got last week, thats the first part. then some fuzz and tone rolled off. The SD1 sounded better recorded than in the room, not really sure on this one, don’t think I like Boss’ cleanest and mildest drive

__
https://soundcloud.com/https%3A%2F%2Fsoundcloud.com%2Ftom-jones2012%2Frusty-andy-dirty-od3-sd1-arctic-white


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Filmo is all finished up. hipster central, as someone already put it


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

vadsy said:


> weekend full of distractions, more to follow, but I got some work done on the bass. at this point it is 3-4 coats in, smooth but not baby bottom. I really want to go all the way to clear coat and wrap this thing up with a bow but I'm afraid to ruin it.
> 
> questions.
> 
> ...


I try really hard not to sand between colour and clear.

If its rough then sand and try to get a smooth flawless (or close to it) coat.

Its its good then dont mess with it.

It looks good from the picture.

Nathan


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

You don't want to wet sand before the clear coat. You get the paint too smooth, and the clear will never stick to it. Just leave it as is, it looks great. Break out the clear!

I only sand between coats of colour when needed to smooth imperfections and knock down any raised grain.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Lincoln said:


> I only sand between coats of colour when needed to smooth imperfections and knock down any raised grain.


Depending on the colour, orange peel is my concern also.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

laristotle said:


> Depending on the colour, orange peel is my concern also.


Oh yes, the dreaded orange peel. A pain to sand out. 
It's amazing the amount of cars you see with a ton of orange peel, right from the factory. 

I've been playing with spraying a coat or two of either flat white or flat black as a base, and working out the issues before spraying the gloss colour. Flat paint always goes on so nice, never runs, easy to sand......


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Nice distractions!

I'm in the middle of a telecaster body with duplicolor white on it. I have very uniform orange peel, so uniform it could be called a "feature"..
I will not sand it but I will try lots of clear lacquer to see what happens. That'll be tomorrow.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

I actually put the last coat of paint on today. I did a little wet sanding after 3 coats, it was mostly smooth but had a couple of spots where I felt the texture change. The sanding did the trick, 2000 grit with some soap and water, and I put on another two light coats of paint. I'll let everything dry and cure for now, clear coat to follow. I'm guessing I'll do a few coats with maybe a sanding in between and then a polish.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Well, 3 clear coats didn't level it out. Too hot and dry. I'll try 3 more in a few days


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

ok, I’ve got a couple coats of clear coat on and I’d like to know the best way to level it out before applying another couple of coats of clear,… First person to respond I’m gonna do exactly what they say with a blindfold on… Go !

Ps- I’ve got fine 4/0 steel wool, 2000 grit paper, whiskers like a cheetah and an angry rasp. What should I use?


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

I used 320 wet dry paper on the clear coat on my telecaster yesterday to get the orange peel off. Im putting more clear on it on Saturday.
I didnt want to sand it, but it was pretty bad. 
I'll clean the surfaces with naphtha before spraying to get all the microscopic junk off.

I'd avoid the steel wool.

BUT, maybe you should try more clear coats first?


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood and a very light touch.

Go easy!!

Nathan


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

nnieman said:


> 600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood and a very light touch.
> 
> Go easy!!
> 
> Nathan


any benefits to using a higher grit? Or you don’t want it too smooth?


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Back to sucking highly flammable vapours with a Shopvac. The Shopvac cools it's hot sparking motor by blowing the exhaust over the hot motor. In this instance the exhaust will be the highly flammable vapour.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

player99 said:


> Back to sucking highly flammable vapours with a Shopvac. The Shopvac cools it's hot sparking motor by blowing the exhaust over the hot motor. In this instance the exhaust will be the highly flammable vapour.


just not enough vapours vs air moving through with how little this job is, plus the multiple filters. It'll be fine


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Use water based paint, like Krylon?


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

vadsy said:


> just not enough vapours vs air moving through with how little this job is, plus the multiple filters. It'll be fine


Except the flammable vapors might build up in the vacuum. You just don't know. A big room fan might be better because there is no place to trap vapors, it just flows past.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

vadsy said:


> just not enough vapours vs air moving through with how little this job is, plus the multiple filters. It'll be fine


The filters do not filter any fumes.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

nnieman said:


> 600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood and a very light touch.
> 
> Go easy!!
> 
> Nathan


That's what I did. I just got the top of peaks off, still rough in some spots. I hope more clear fixes it... I'm using a gun and compressor now so I can spray an almost unlimited amount of clear.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

vadsy said:


> any benefits to using a higher grit? Or you don’t want it too smooth?


The grit doesn't really matter, you could do higher.

You dont want to introduce any sanding scratches at this point so I wouldnt go lower than 400 grit.

Nathan


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

player99 said:


> The filters do not filter any fumes.


I stacked 3 HEPAs on top of each other and wrapped them in a N95 mask, Ill be fine.



tomee2 said:


> Except the flammable vapors might build up in the vacuum. You just don't know. A big room fan might be better because there is no place to trap vapors, it just flows past.


I'm sure its fine for the little spraying that I'm doing and this setup isn't sticking around when I'm done. Imma donate it to an orphanage. Air in = air out, besides,.. safety is the least of my concerns. 

I agree on the room fan or any large fan, preferable driven by a belt with any motor farther away from the spray.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

nnieman said:


> The grit doesn't really matter, you could do higher.
> 
> You dont want to introduce any sanding scratches at this point so I wouldnt go lower than 400 grit.
> 
> Nathan


thanks, 2000 it is. maybe I'll do 800 first


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

two cans of paint, two cans of clear. buffed and polished, 3 steps with 3 different wheels and compounds. happy overall, good learning experience


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## Ricktoberfest (Jun 22, 2014)

vadsy said:


> two cans of paint, two cans of clear. buffed and polished, 3 steps with 3 different wheels and compounds. happy overall, good learning experience


Pretty. Would you go clear coat again?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Ricktoberfest said:


> Pretty. Would you go clear coat again?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


oh yea, It totally adds a nice final touch. I wanna try that car stuff that comes in two parts and turns Viagra hard


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## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

vadsy said:


>



Colours work well.


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## Dorian2 (Jun 9, 2015)

Looks great Vadsy!


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## Farmboyjo (Aug 26, 2016)

Very very nice. Doesn’t look like a home job at all. What did you use for polish compound?


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

Farmboyjo said:


> Very very nice. Doesn’t look like a home job at all. What did you use for polish compound?


thanks, but it still tips the hat to home jobs. It’s shiny but also some matte texture qualities. Headstock turned out best, even though it was the least effort put in. I’m happy but wouldn’t be if I was expecting it to turn out like poly. I think more prep work could have been done between coats and heavier applications would have helped, then again I feel like it wasn’t necessary for this project.

I went with using what I already had for finishing. Turtle Wax polishing compound, light to medium cleaner with a spritz of water and a heavier styrofoam wheel. Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax and again a little water with a medium styrofoam wheel. Lastly, Mothers Scratch Remover applied by hand first and a buffing wheel spinning hella fast. 

I’d like to do another project and try the clear you suggested earlier as well as the two part car clear from Eastwood.


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## Farmboyjo (Aug 26, 2016)

Excellent news - because Turtle wax polishing compound is what I used, then their clear coat polish&restorer. It’s what I had in the garage but was really questioning if i was cheap or more harm than good. Then finished up with Fender Maquier’s stuff.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

I used to use turtle wax rubbing compounds then macquiers then switched to a 3m one.
Way better results.
Much less work to get a deeper shine with no haze.

Nathan


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