# Can you buff out that kind of marks ?



## Derek_T (10 mo ago)

If yes, is that a big job ?
Apparently it's "string scratches" but at this level it looks like whoever changed the strings did it with his toes.

Thanks !


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I'd say those marks can be eliminated or at least greatly reduced with a little rubbing compound and some polish.

How big a job it is depends on how much improvement you want to make. To get it really clean you would have to remove all the strings and the tuner ferrules and then start with the compound.

Should come up nice.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

I've used this on one of my guitars:


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## DaddyDog (Apr 21, 2017)

Yes, I successfully buffed out a very deep scratch on a headstock from a string end. I used Guitar Scratch Remover for that one. But many products work in the same way: different levels of grit, and repeat applications. Many car buff products work the same way, and can be used on your guitar.


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## FatStrat2 (Apr 7, 2021)

There are many guitar parallels to the car world and finish is just another one of them. The compounds used to clean cars can be used on guitars.


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## crann (May 10, 2014)

Note that modern car finishes are more similar to a poly finish and not a nitro. If you use a compound, make sure it won't act as a nitrocellulose solvent. I've used Meguiars swirl remover 2.0 mostly as a polishing agent but it does ok with lighter scratches YMMV. Take extra care if using any power tools, nitro is very easy to burn through.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

My preference.


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## vanqr (10 mo ago)

3m makes really nice stuff. One of the biggest things to be careful about is silicone. A ton of products contain it, and it could create issues if you ever decide to touch up or refinish. I do think a lot of the risks may be slightly exaggerated online, but I do steer away from it regardless.

I used scratchX the first time I ever attempted scratch removal; and even though it didn’t say on the packaging; it did contain a bit of silicone. Nothing terrible happened, but it is worth checking online before you buy any sort of scratch removal compound


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## Always12AM (Sep 2, 2018)

Those kind of marks, my first thought would be.. Someone who didn’t understand the simple task of changing strings. What else’s didn’t they care enough to learn about it terms of basic maintenance.

I wouldn’t bother trying to buff that out. What buff out means to me is to prep the entire surface for a new coat of finish. Meaning, it will matte the entire surface slightly. If you don’t have a way to apply another coat of nitro and then wait for a looooong time for it to cure, it’s just going to dull the finish a bit.

This doesn’t mean it would look “bad”, it just means that it may not look new again.

Buffing is removing a thin layer of finish to reduce the entire layer to the depth of the scratch. A Polish will temporarily shine the surface, but won’t restore the nitro taken off.


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## Rollin Hand (Jul 12, 2012)

Always12AM said:


> Those kind of marks, my first thought would be.. Someone who didn’t understand the simple task of changing strings. What else’s didn’t they care enough to learn about it terms of basic maintenance.
> 
> I wouldn’t bother trying to buff that out. What buff out means to me is to prep the entire surface for a new coat of finish. Meaning, it will matte the entire surface slightly. If you don’t have a way to apply another coat of nitro and then wait for a looooong time for it to cure, it’s just going to dull the finish a bit.
> 
> ...


That's kinda the basis of polishing -- take off some of th eold finish and bring it all to a consistent high shine. I have done it with cars and guitars and got a mirror-like finish every time. I like the Meguiars stuff because the abrasives get smaller with use.

In this case, pull the tuners, and polish the whole face of the headstock for a consistent finish. A Dremel with a buffing/polishing head would do a good job if you only want to fix that area. Microfibre towels for the final hand polishing.

EDIT: I should have added that I have NOT done this on nitro lacquer before. Proceed with appropriate caution.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Ignore it?

To be done right means taking the tuners off, and if that's not done right (getting the bushings out if pressed in and stuck to the lacquer) more damage will happen.

To look like new again I think it would need to be wet sanded very gently with 1000, 2000, etc up to as high as possible. Then carefully polishing with rubbing compound. The risk of this is sanding through the clear coat, or having water soak into holes, swelling the wood making more cracks... 

Might be best to skip the sanding and do only polishing..as suggested. And test the polish out to be sure it doesn't use solvents that dissolve nitro..


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I think maybe we're overthinking this.

It's light scratching in nitro, you can buff it out quite easily and it should look great.

Just don't be in a rush.

Yes, remove the tuners and bushings, and truss rod cover.

Buff it out with progressive grits compounds and then put it back together. The McGuiar's won't harm your nitro. I use it all the time.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Always12AM said:


> Those kind of marks, my first thought would be.. Someone who didn’t understand the simple task of changing strings. What else’s didn’t they care enough to learn about it terms of basic maintenance.
> 
> I wouldn’t bother trying to buff that out. What buff out means to me is to prep the entire surface for a new coat of finish. Meaning, it will matte the entire surface slightly. If you don’t have a way to apply another coat of nitro and then wait for a looooong time for it to cure, it’s just going to dull the finish a bit.
> 
> ...


Maybe they left the strings long and closing the case caused the long strings to scratch the headstock?


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## Always12AM (Sep 2, 2018)

player99 said:


> Maybe they left the strings long and closing the case caused the long strings to scratch the headstock?


That is also a likely culprit.
Personally I like signs of ware and usage. It makes me feel better about using the guitar.

I just think that long string ends and general laziness is concerning to me because I’m pretty organized in general and like to take the extra time to make things neat. This is why I’m a dream previous owner lol.


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## Always12AM (Sep 2, 2018)

Rollin Hand said:


> That's kinda the basis of polishing -- take off some of th eold finish and bring it all to a consistent high shine. I have done it with cars and guitars and got a mirror-like finish every time. I like the Meguiars stuff because the abrasives get smaller with use.
> 
> In this case, pull the tuners, and polish the whole face of the headstock for a consistent finish. A Dremel with a buffing/polishing head would do a good job if you only want to fix that area. Microfibre towels for the final hand polishing.
> 
> EDIT: I should have added that I have NOT done this on nitro lacquer before. Proceed with appropriate caution.


I love McGuires Polish. I have used it on nitro. That being said. Aged nitro.

Nitro can be forgiving. In this case buffing it could do exactly what he is asking it to do. But I wouldn’t practice on something brand new over a small scratch etc.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I would add, that using the McGuiars or similar compounds alone won't make it like new.

It will make it better enough for many (most?) of us.

I think @tomee2 is correct about needing to sand to have it like new.

I wouldn't risk that because as others have said, nitro is easy to sand through or even buff through.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Milkman said:


> I would add, that using the McGuiars or similar compounds alone won't make it like new.
> 
> It will make it better enough for many (most?) of us.
> 
> ...


There's a youtube video I can't find, where twoodfrd (spelling?) sanded a les paul headstock face to get rid of some peeling. It was a very meticulous process, with light sanding and some razor blade scraping.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

How does the rest of the guitar look like?


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## Larry (Sep 3, 2016)

www.eternashine.com

I have bought and used it, IT IS everything they claim, especially on Black Guitars.


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## VHTO (Feb 19, 2016)

IMHO use some of the micro mesh sanding pads from Lee Valley and work your way up to the 12,000. Then hand polish. 

The factory nitro is not very thick so you want to be careful about removing too much material.



https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/sanding/discs-and-pads/62127-micro-mesh-pen-sanding-pads


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## Derek_T (10 mo ago)

Chito said:


> How does the rest of the guitar look like?



Looks ok, couple of buckle rash on the back, and scratch on the front. From the pictures it seems the headstock is the worst.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

Derek_T said:


> Looks ok, couple of buckle rash on the back, and scratch on the front. From the pictures it seems the headstock is the worst.


Coz if you make it like new then it wouldn't match the rest of the guitar


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## ricky_b (Feb 15, 2016)

+1 on the Lee Valley Micro Mesh pads. That's what I use. I wet sand with a drop of dish soap in the water. Works well and looks so glossy that I usually don't need to use any liquid/paste polish afterwards. I done it on both poly and nitro finishes.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

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