# Tru-oil problem.



## Jocko (May 17, 2010)

I am having a bit of a problem finishing my Swamp Ash body using Tru-oil. Although I am following recognised technique of rubbing oil on then immediately wiping it back off and allowing a minimum of 24 hours between coats. I then polish with 0000 steel wool, but still find the finish very soft. This morning I moved the body from its overnight resting place on the kitchen worktop to put it in my office (where it spends the day) and my finger nail nicked the surface and scored it. It polished out with 600 grit Wet or Dry.
My question is: Will the finish harden once complete and allowed its 2 weeks drying/curing time? If not the guitar will be relic'ed after only a few weeks playing! 
Can anyone share with me their experience of using Tru-oil as the body finish of a guitar? 
Guitar body looks incredible with a lovely natural sheen.


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## Traivs (Aug 13, 2010)

If the oil is not drying, then you've used a coat too thick. You've got to wipe off as much as you can after you've applied it. It's better to use many thin coats than a few thick coats. You could try wiping it down with Naptha and starting over.


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## dradlin (Feb 27, 2010)

Truoil is not like linseed or tung oils.
The name is deceiving since it is more like a varnish than an oil.

With linseed and tung oils you let the finish sink in and wipe of the excess.

Like Traivs said, with Truoil you wipe on thin coats and build slowly. Use lint free wipers, and 0000 steel wool between coats if required. Don't rush the process - let dry between coats.

After you are finished building coats leave the finish to cure for a couple weeks, during which time the finish will harden and the smell will dissipate.

Best finish results (high gloss) are achieved when the project you are finishing is sanded very smooth before applying finish... to about 600 grit, unlike lacquer were go to about 220 to leave some "tooth".

Did you grain fill the ash? If not then watch to see if the Truoil pools in the grain and may need extended dry time to recoat, else the finish may stay gummy in the pores.

You may want to consider sanding back, or leaving sit for a week to cure, if you think you may have built the coats too thick and fast.


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## YJMUJRSRV (Jul 17, 2007)

gone fishing


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## dradlin (Feb 27, 2010)

He's using Tru-Oil, not tung oil... different animals, and you won't find Tru-Oil (intended for gun stocks) at HD or Rona.

While i agree that lacquer is far superior in every aspect, it's not as DIY friendly as Tru-Oil... but one shouldn't expect lacquer like results.


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## Jocko (May 17, 2010)

I grain filled the Swamp Ash before oiling. I sanded, in stages, to 600 grit. I use thin coats and wipe off using lint free paper cloth. I leave a minimum of 48 hours between coats and burnish with 0000 grade steel wool between coats. I then wipe with Naptha and allow to dry before applying Tru-oil. I am working under a fluorescent lamp which is close to and slightly behind work top so it shows every imperfection. Problem is, I keep finding marks which were not there last time I looked. (No animals or small children to blame) I just found another one today which looks like it was made with the pencil, on top of the masking tape, when I measured up for the strap button. I was very light with pencil pressure and besides - I did that over a week ago!
The reason I am using Tru-oil is I live in a flat and I am doing my build in the kitchen. I would have loved to use Nitro but my wife even complains about using Tru-oil!


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## dradlin (Feb 27, 2010)

Here is a comprehensive read on Tru-Oil.

http://www.lmii.com/carttwo/truoil.htm

My experience with Tru-Oil is that it is not particularly frail as you are describing, yet not as hard and durable as a lacquer finish.

I have some test boards here in my shop that are about two years old and I can easily leave an impression in the finish with my fingernail.

Consider that such a thin finish is not going to be harder than the wood substrate. If a pencil line would mark the raw wood it will also mark the Tru-Oil finish.

Modern guitars finished with super thick coats of polyester are very tough and durable, moreso even than lacquer, Tru-Oil will not perform like either of those and especially polyester... be sure that your expectations are aligned with the product you are using.

A further consideration with Tru-Oil is you can easily scuff and wipe on more coats years later to rejuvenate the finish... if you are so inclined.


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## YJMUJRSRV (Jul 17, 2007)

gone fishing


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

I've never used tru-oil but it intrigues me. Some guys, like Quarter (the lap steel builder) on HCEG forum, does a GREAT job with it.

It seems to me it is similar to a finish some furniture makers mix up themselves when an oil finish look is wanted but with something more durable, and that can be built up. I mix equal parts polyurethane, oil (linseed or tung) and mineral spirits. The finish can be wiped on and left to dry, and then wiped on again, etc until the desired thickness of finish is acheived. However it has to be left to dry between coats and also you are applying a thin coat so several will have to be put on to acheive any kind of thickness.

AJC


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## Jocko (May 17, 2010)

I decided not to do any more to the body and yesterday I hung it up in a cupboard to cure. I have parts on order which hopefully will be here about the end of April, and until they arrive the build cannot progress any further. I will leave it curing until parts arrive.
I do not mind knocks and dings on a guitar. It shows it has been played and loved. I am not particularly gentle with my instruments and understand the limitations of my oil finish. I just want it to look its best for its initial unveiling. Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

jocko- how damp are things there?
i tru-oiled a neck a couple summers ago, using the same technique i always do, and it took far longer to harden than is my normal experience. it was very humid here. 
i actually never wipe any excess oil off, i instead rub it in briskly so the oil heats up in my fingers. once it gets hot, it starts getting really tacky fast- and is dry to the touch, and pretty hard within an hour. i always get very hard, slick finishes- the one time i didnt was when i oiled the neck outside, on a rooftop in the mid-afternoon southern ontario summer- it eventually got as hard as any others by about december-


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## Jocko (May 17, 2010)

Fraser, It has actually been an extremely dry March in the UK. My house is heater by electric convector heaters so that creates a dry atmosphere as well. I find the Tru-oil no longer tacky after a couple of hours and feels really good after 24 hours. I think my problem is the finish is only going to be as hard as the wood itself.
When I first started experimenting on Ash off cuts, many months ago, I used your technique but then found the Luthiers Mercantile International data sheets and have been using that as my Bible since then.
Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.


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## dradlin (Feb 27, 2010)

Here is a great thread on Tru-Oil...

How do you get a high-gloss from Tru-oil finish? - The Gear Page


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## Jocko (May 17, 2010)

Thanks dradlin. That is a brilliant thread. The finish that can be achieved is unbelievable. Doesn't make me any happier about my paltry attempts though! I did a bit of wet sanding with oil on my body and it worked well. I will know better for my next body. I have copied original post and will keep as a Word document.


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