# Finally got up the guts...



## Spikezone (Feb 2, 2006)

...and drilled out the holes in my guitar for the bridge and tailpiece studs and the bridge groundwire! I haven't pushed the studs all the way into the guitar yet (won't do so until final assembly), but as far as I did push them in the bridge and tailpiece seem to fit and I'm pretty sure I had the holes marked up for center and scale lenth properly. 
Now all I have to do is finish sand, stain and clear the body, then assemble, but I have a question. The body is made of northern ash, and I have been advised to fill the grain first before staining. I plan to stain it black (rubbed out so the grain shows), so what is the procedure? Is it fill first, then stain, then clear? I was told the best thing to do was to use black wood filler then sand it and stain, but I just want to find out if anyone here has done this by any other methods I should consider. Thanx to anyone who cares to help me out here!
-Mikey


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

Spikezone said:


> Is it fill first, then stain, then clear?
> -Mikey


Yes thats right. The paste wood fillers are available in any colours just like staions (well, at least from the place I buy my finishing supplies, John E Goudey's in Toronto) so use the black, let it dry overnight and then stain, let it dry and then go with the sealer/top coats. Just remember if you are trying to build up enough finish to rub out for a high gloss you will need to spray LIGHT coats and maybe two a day at most, let it build up slowly allowing the finish to dry fully. If you build it up too much too fast you will never allow the undercoats to fully cure, and have problems.

Unless of course you are using a two component catalyzed finish like I do. Even then you have to wait a few hours between coats and it takes me about two days to build up enough lacquer on a bady to do a decent rub out.

AJC


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## Lowtones (Mar 21, 2006)

I use water soluable hi intensity anoline dye from Lee Valley. It will usually raise the grain a bit so I give it a light sanding. I apply clear sanding sealer then the clear coats. As it's usually applied to maple it is a very tight grained wood and filler is not required.


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