# Soldering iron tip thermometer



## epis (Feb 25, 2012)

Just to share, I got one already.
It's not hakko, but for ten bux, more then enough.









FG-100 Soldering Temperature Tester Electrical Soldering Iron Tip Thermometer Sensor Line Digital Display, Irons - Amazon Canada


FG-100 Soldering Temperature Tester Electrical Soldering Iron Tip Thermometer Sensor Line Digital Display in Irons.



www.amazon.ca


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

Never knew I needed one. I have a rough time soldering, have a good Hakko station, but just can't get the solder liquidating quickly.

Do I need something like this?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

bgreenhouse said:


> Never knew I needed one. I have a rough time soldering, have a good Hakko station, but just can't get the solder liquidating quickly.
> 
> Do I need something like this?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


what solder are you using? A .8mm 60/40 works great on a Hakko @ 750F


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

bgeenhouse, 
Is your iron tip is the good size for your need ? Too small tips can't keep enough heat.
Many soldering stations come only with small tips to work in micro electronics. They are not good for our amps or guitar work.
Keep your tip clean.


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

epis said:


> Just to share, I got one already.
> It's not hakko, but for ten bux, more then enough.
> 
> 
> ...



Good to know, look more a gadget we don't need. 
Best is to learn how to solder, how to learn how your soldering station work and how to use it for your need.


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

Latole said:


> bgeenhouse,
> Is your iron tip is the good size for your need ? Too small tips can't keep enough heat.
> Many soldering stations come only with small tips to work in micro electronics. They are not good for our amps or guitar work.
> Keep your tip clean.


I'll try a larger tip. I have just been using the ones that came with it 

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

My soldering tip is close to 1.5 mm. I do all my amps with that. Too small for ground at pots body.
I have many soldering tools
I have 40 year experienced in electronics with more than thousand solders, Yes more than 1,000


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

bgreenhouse said:


> Never knew I needed one. I have a rough time soldering, have a good Hakko station, but just can't get the solder liquidating quickly.
> 
> Do I need something like this?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk





Lincoln said:


> what solder are you using? A .8mm 60/40 works great on a Hakko @ 750F



I was gonna say - play with the temp. Even better (to minimise temp - safer for a lot of components),switch to eutectic solder - that's 63/37 vs 60/40. Melts all at once vs over a range with the lumpy oatmeal stage so easier to solder with and avoid cold joints. I never have to go above 600F or so, even for pot casings. Usually sit at 525-50ish.

Never needed a thermometer, I'm sure the dial (also use a Hakko) isn't perfectly accurtate but close enuf. Therm is only required for specific critical industrial uses.


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

To solder, you don't need ( very) hight temperature, just know how to and the right tool .


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Latole said:


> I have 40 year experienced in electronics with more than thousand solders, Yes more than 1,000


You have to be averaging more than 25 solder joints per year!
Maybe you mean 1 million solders?


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

bgreenhouse said:


> I'll try a larger tip. I have just been using the ones that came with it


For point to point tube amp soldering you should use at least a 40W soldering iron, with sufficient heat capacity that it is able to sustain the melting temperature of solder when you apply the tip to the connection to be soldered...it's related to heat transfer and heat capacity. An example, if you place a full basket of frozen French fries in a small deep fryer...the temperature of the oil in the fryer, will drop rapidly and produce soggy French fries; place the same basket of fries in a large vat fryer, there will be very little temperature drop and the fries will be crunchy.


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

It's weird - I have a 70W Hakko station that has digital temperature and I just can't get the solder to smoothly melt on the components after I heat them up. I've mostly been doing attempts at DIY pedals, not amps. I end up doing the totally amateur thing and melting it on the iron and trying to smear it on. Works in a pinch, but I know I'm doing it wrong. I'll try the larger tip though. Tinning wires and connecting two wires generally works alright, but then I'm less worried about damaging components.


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## epis (Feb 25, 2012)

Latole said:


> Good to know, look more a gadget we don't need.
> Best is to learn how to solder, how to learn how your soldering station work and how to use it for your need.


If you have original hakko, Weller or metcal, most likely you don't need it, but most of Chinese inexpensive stations need calibration right out of box.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

bgreenhouse said:


> It's weird - I have a 70W Hakko station that has digital temperature and I just can't get the solder to smoothly melt on the components after I heat them up. I've mostly been doing attempts at DIY pedals, not amps. I end up doing the totally amateur thing and melting it on the iron and trying to smear it on. Works in a pinch, but I know I'm doing it wrong. I'll try the larger tip though. Tinning wires and connecting two wires generally works alright, but then I'm less worried about damaging components.


Are you using lead free solder?
If so, replace it with 60/40 resin core and your confidence and good results will be immediate.


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

loudtubeamps said:


> Are you using lead free solder?
> If so, replace it with 60/40 resin core and your confidence and good results will be immediate.


I was, but have since gone to 60/40. HAven't done much with it though. Will try again.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

bgreenhouse said:


> I was, but have since gone to 60/40. HAven't done much with it though. Will try again.


60/40 and a clean tip is all you should need.
FWIW ......instead if a wet sponge, I use a piece of steel wool to wipe the tip clean.
Works great.


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## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

greco said:


> You have to be averaging more than 25 solder joints per year!
> Maybe you mean 1 million solders?



Hey your are right !
I do more than 25 each days =more than 9,000 by year X 40 = 360,000


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## tonewoody (Mar 29, 2017)

bgreenhouse said:


> Never knew I needed one. I have a rough time soldering, have a good Hakko station, but just can't get the solder liquidating quickly.
> 
> Do I need something like this?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


This sounds like your Hakko needs the ceramic heater element replaced. 
You can order the part and replace it yourself.
I had to do this once and it was like a brand new iron.


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

tonewoody said:


> This sounds like your Hakko needs the ceramic heater element replaced.
> You can order the part and replace it yourself.
> I had to do this once and it was like a brand new iron.


Is it worth the $10 on the thermometer to figure out if it's heating right?


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

bgreenhouse said:


> Is it worth the $10 on the thermometer to figure out if it's heating right?


Give the iron a few minutes to come up to temperature....grab the tip with your fingers.
If it starts to smell like chicken cooking, your heating element is probably ok.
All seriousness aside....if the tip is clean and you can easily tin the tip with your 60/40 you’re probably ok.
If just tinning the tip is difficult , you’ll probably have to take @tonewoody ’s advice.
A monitor on the heating element is kinda cool ( pardon the pun) but IMHO totally unnecessary.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

loudtubeamps said:


> Give the iron a few minutes to come up to temperature....grab the tip with your fingers.
> If it starts to smell like chicken cooking, your heating element is probably ok.


Thanks for my laugh for the day. 
Yes, I do have an extremely warped sense of humour.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

greco said:


> Thanks for my laugh for the day.
> Yes, I do have an extremely warped sense of humour.


@greco .....yer welcome....likewise.
Join the club.....It’s a good club!
If you’re like me, you’ve probably been a member for a very long time.


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## epis (Feb 25, 2012)

350 Celsius is standard temp. Or something around 700 Fahrenheit.
Best solder you can buy is 63/37.
If your solder doesn't melt easily at that temp. Problem is with calibration of your iron or solder itself.
I can't recommend lead free solder.


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## epis (Feb 25, 2012)

epis said:


> 350 Celsius is standard temp. Or something around 700 Fahrenheit.
> Best solder you can buy is 63/37.
> If your solder doesn't melt easily at that temp. Problem is with calibration of your iron or solder itself.
> I can't recommend lead free solder.


I meant Kester 63/37


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

loudtubeamps said:


> Give the iron a few minutes to come up to temperature....grab the tip with your fingers.
> If it starts to smell like chicken cooking, your heating element is probably ok.
> All seriousness aside....if the tip is clean and you can easily tin the tip with your 60/40 you’re probably ok.
> If just tinning the tip is difficult , you’ll probably have to take @tonewoody ’s advice.
> A monitor on the heating element is kindba cool ( pardon the pun) but IMHO totally unnecessary.


Tried that. Seems fine. Anyone have a good plastic surgeon?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## tonewoody (Mar 29, 2017)




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## tonewoody (Mar 29, 2017)

bgreenhouse said:


> Is it worth the $10 on the thermometer to figure out if it's heating right?


No, just get the replacement element.

Why spend $10 to confirm what you already know? 😉


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## bgreenhouse (Jan 4, 2014)

Update. Ended up getting the thermometer and I was reading about 30C low. Stumbled across this thread:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/922b2x
, and it looks like I may have - a while ago - screwed up the calibration when trying to adjust set points. I reset to factory specs and then calibrated and now it's running well.


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