# The "What to oil your fretboard with" Debate



## GuitarsCanada

I have heard or have been told many methods and materials to use over the years to oil and care for fretboards. Let's here from the experts on what is the best oil/material and method for caring for fretboards.


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## MaxWedge

Until last June I never give this much thought as all I had was a maple board and it seemed to require very little, just clean it with a lint free rag. Since June I have been dealing with a rosewood board and was suggested to use Dr.Stringfellow's LEM-OIL. Seems to be alright and feels great when fresh, but it does seem to dry quickly.


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## StevieMac

One vote for simple tung oil. Outlasts anything else I've tried. :food-smiley-004:


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## Mahogany Martin

I'm reading How to make your guitar play great by Dan Erlewine and he recommends lindseed oil. I remember a few years back a friend who was into martial arts and whatever specialty he was in, he was using sticks and he mentionned linseed oil as well. Only I believe that he mixed it with orange or something to take the smell of lindseed out. It gave a good protection for whatever wood they use for their sticks (hickory??) and I remember him saying that it made the wood *smooth*.

I guess lindseed oil really penetrates and doesn't dried out to quickly so it gives a good protection. Dan Erlewine warns that lindseed is really flamable (fire hazard) and he also warns that no matter what you use to be careful not to apply too much and not to let it get in the frets because it can loosen the frets. I'd be curious to hear if pros in here use lindseed and what they think about it?

Edit: I should add that this is recommended for rosewood figerboards and not maple (of course).


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## Baba Rumraisin

*Linseed oil never dries*

Personally I wouldn't use linseed oil (boiled or raw) on my guitar neck or anywhere else on my guitar as it never really dries. That's why its so popular for use on boats and ships. It can and will get sticky and pick up dirt and debris. I have been involved in furniture for thirty years and a lot of what is called patina in some old furniture is simply imbedded dirt in the oil or shellac finish.
Actually, I'm not sure why you'd want to put anything on the neck at all.
What do I use? There are those that will curse me for this but I occasionally use Armour-All on my guitar necks to clean them and speed them up. I know refinishers will tell you not to because it repels paint and finishes when you try to re-finish the guitar and yes that's true, but it can be overcome with ammonia based cleaners which will also add that special look of aging to the wood.
I'm bad I know.


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## GuitarsCanada

Good stuff, I like to hear what people think on this one. It has to be one of the widest ranging topics regarding guitar care. I have had people swear on lemon oil, linseed oil etc and offer 100 reasons why not to use either. I have been using a conconction from Dunlop recently that does a nice job. I do believe that it needs to be done at least a few times a year. If the guitar gets played a lot a certain amount of oils will be transfered from your fingers and that is evident by where the board gets the most work, this varies with the person though.

But you also get dirt building up as well. So whenever I give mine a good cleaning I normally finish it off with an oil treatment. I used to use lemon oil but found it dried out fairly quickly. This stuff from Dunlop leaves the board nice without any stickeness at all.


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## ajcoholic

I use what Dan Suggests to use in his other book, the Guitar Player Repair one.

Watco danish oil. I Use it a lot in my woodworking business (have for years and years) and although it is linseed oil based, it is a drying oil and has a very very fine pigment (you cannot see the grain - unlike some stains that dont grind the pigments fine enough).

Watco comes in many shades, I generally use medium walnut for my rw and ebony boards. 

IMO Deft oil would also be a good choice - its similar but I am sure its tung oil based.

Other than that plain tung oil or polymerized tung oil would work just fine.

I dont like using anything but a true drying oil, for the reasons mentioned above. Raw linseed WILL dry - but it takes weeks or longer.

Them's my opinions 

AJC


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## Lester B. Flat

I've never oiled any of my rosewood boards. The reason rosewood is a desirable wood for fretboards is beacause it does'nt require any finish, like maple, and it's silky to the touch. I just wipe mine clean with every string change, sometimes with a small amount of alcohol which evaporates before it can soak in. If it's clean it's slippery enough for me. It seems odd that Dan Erlewine would recommend linseed oil but also says be careful not to get it on the frets. That seems incongruous to me. But hey, what do I know? I'm just a guitar player.


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## Mahogany Martin

...linseed linseed.. c'mon repeat after me, linseed, not lindseed. I thought of scanning the page but I don't quite know how to *attach it* to the site for you to see   

Dan Erlewine says "my motto for cleaning any fretboard is less is best". And then a little later under "Lubricating dry fretboard" he says "My prefered fretboard treatment is pure raw linseed oil (not the boiled variety)."

I've used lem-oil so far and each time I wonder if it takes care of the dryness enough. It seems to *evaporate* withing the first week or so (kinda thing). The way he explains it is to apply it meticulously, let it sit a minute or so and wipe it clean. I thought that it may have made a difference not so much in providing extra *gliding* but in preserving the fretboard.


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## FGW (Canada)

From my experience, one should clean and oil the fretboard every string change, an ultra fine (white colour - zero abrasive) scotch pad for application and a CLEAN paper towel or cloth for removal of excess and burnishing. Avoid sticky products that never dry like lemon oil (oxidizes frets), linseed oils, Castrol, Mazola, etc. The best are natural colour Danish oils because they contain resins that actually "dry/harden" and don't turn your instrument into a dust magnet. You can use this on lacquered maple boards as well to preserve and moisturize the finish - just follow the instructions on the can! I cringe at fretboards that havn't been maintained since day one; grunge and grime is NOT cool!


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## dwagar

I've been using lemon oil for about 40 years.
I think I'm still using the same bottle.
When I think the board is too dry, or dirty and need cleaning, I'll touch it up with a drop of oil on a paper towel. Then with a clean cotton cloth I will rub the shit out of it to ensure there is no oil left on top of the board - it'll kill your strings.
Keep in mind all lemon oils are not equal. Bonus is we want the absolutely cheapest stuff with no additives, no petroleum, no silicones, etc.
Also, I've always lived in Alberta. We think humidity means rain. If you are in a humid climate, your fretboards may not dry out as much.


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## Baba Rumraisin

*Lemon Oil*

At one time, early twentieth century, instead of lemon oil, it was called,( I think I remember,) pine oil as it smelled like pine, like Lestoil. In the thirties, forties or fifties the lemon smell came to be in vogue and it was switched to lemon scent. It was largely made of kerosene. 
I'm not saying that that is the case now, I'm just adding some absolutely useless information from the great wealth of useless information clogging up my head.
I feel that the neck gets plenty of oiling from the constant contact of our hands and most of what we try to remove is actually accumulated oil and dirt.
Having the wood of my guitar neck dry is a good thing IMHO. Soap and water is a really good cleanser if you're really concerned about dirt. As far as the pores in the wood of the fretboard are concerned, again, the oil and dead skin from our hands will keep them filled.
This is especially true in the case of necks that are finished. The idea of a finish is to seal the wood from outside influences. The finish on the neck and fretboard of my Rickie is some sort of spaceage super-hard clearcoat and putting any extra oil on it would be a waste of time and effort. It's oil I want to remove.
FGW(Canada) will speak to me no doubt when I mention again that I've found Armour All to be nice on my necks. It removes the dirt and makes them slippery and slick, but then, if they're to be refinished at some time, it'll be me that does it. So it'll be me that has to deal with fisheye.
Did I say I was Bad?


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## dwagar

yeah, kerosene. That's why you have to get a non-petroleum based product. That'd be like spraying your fretboard with WD40.
While Armor All is probably ok on a poly finish, I sure wouldn't think of getting it near nitro. Basically straight silicone. There's lots of good guitar polishes out there that are as cheap to use as armor all.


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## Baba Rumraisin

*Agreed*

If you want to stay away from silicone based cleaners like Lemon Pledge and its like you have to be careful what it is you're buying and using. Truthfully, I do use Armor All or something like it but I, for one, don't worry about refinishing problems. But, yeah, a damp cloth or a guitar cleaner concoction may be the way you want to go.
This has been a fun thread so far. There are, no doubt, just about as many ways to clean one's guitar as there are owners. If, when you do it your way, it has a percieved improvement in feel, look or sound, then you're doing something right. About the only thing you'd not want to do is remove the dirt or grime with a belt sander. That would be bad. But , as the saying goes, if it feels right, it is right. At least I think the saying went that way.


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## guitarzan

thanks, now i have more to think about.  
actually i have used lemon oil, and after running to the other room to read the lable, i see it is a mineral oil based product.


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## Lowtones

check this out. It comes highly recommended.

http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm


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## guitarzan

interesting. thanks for the link.


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## Teleplucker

I use "Guitar Honey" from Gerlitz in Oregon. It's specially formulated for guitar fretboards. Since it's so dry here in Alberta, I put some on about 2X a year. I bugged Mike so much, he finally started to stock it:

http://www.acousticguitar.net


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## david henman

StevieMac said:


> One vote for simple tung oil. Outlasts anything else I've tried. :food-smiley-004:


...i have been using lemon pledge on my fretboards and other surfaces for about forty years.

bad idea?


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## ajcoholic

ONly if you want to ever have a refin done...


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## Baba Rumraisin

Lemon Pledge has been known as the bane of furniture refinishers for a long time. Silicone is what gives you that nice shine on your tabletop.


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## rippinglickfest

*Gunstock oil*

What I use for my fingerboards is Gunstock Oil............it is Linseed Oil based but it is refined so that the non drying qualities are removed. Its easy to apply and dries quickly. The product I use is called 'GB's Lin-speed and its 8.95 american for a 2 0z bottle........and one bottle goes a long way.
you can order it at "GB" Products Division
Lin-speed Inc
PO Box 1319
Mashpee, Ma
02649 
[email protected]

Ray


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## GuitarsCanada

This gunstock oil sounds interesting. I might give that try and see what happens. Good stuff and lots of great input.


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## erikm5150

Bore Oil is what i use.
it's used primarily for woodwind instruments... works very well for rosewood fingerboards.


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## Xanadu

I've already read this whole thread looking for the answer.

---

I've never oiled my fretboards before...but, with winter, I think they need it. What is best for ebony(?) If they are even ebony.. they're dark.

there's this one,









and this one,


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## paragonGuitars

I think it's fine to leave most fretboards oil free. I've used boiled linseed oil and lemon oil a lot, but now I'm either leaving them alone or using the synthetic oil from Luthier's Mercantile. LMII.com Before applying the oil (or not) I clean the board with mineral spirits to remove masking tape residue after a fretjob. I found boiled linseed oil would kill strings and grime up frets, and although better, lemon oil did the same if you weren't super carefull in cleaning all the excess off the frets.

Rob


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## GuitarsCanada

Xanadu said:


> I've already read this whole thread looking for the answer.
> 
> ---
> 
> I've never oiled my fretboards before...but, with winter, I think they need it. What is best for ebony(?) If they are even ebony.. they're dark.
> 
> there's this one,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this one,


That Ibanez you have there is rosewood for sure, the other one is very dark but I can't tell. Ebony is almost black in color so easy to spot. In terms of what to use... there have been several good suggestions made here and I dont think it matters which type of wood. I am not the expert on woods though.


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## ianderson

Linseed oil work fine, many pros have used it sucsessully for decades. My personall fav is Tung oil - works great! Remender to use 0000 steel wool to cleanup first, apply oil, and clean and polish when oil has soak in. You only need to do this once or twice a year tops!


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## jxoco

I use Gibson Luthiers Choice fretboard conditioner.
From L & McQ
About $2

Works well for me...


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## snakeman

paragonGuitars said:


> I think it's fine to leave most fretboards oil free. I've used boiled linseed oil and lemon oil a lot, but now I'm either leaving them alone or using the synthetic oil from Luthier's Mercantile. LMII.com Before applying the oil (or not) I clean the board with mineral spirits to remove masking tape residue after a fretjob. I found boiled linseed oil would kill strings and grime up frets, and although better, lemon oil did the same if you weren't super carefull in cleaning all the excess off the frets.
> 
> Rob


Absolutely! In a past life I did some duck hunting and decided to clean my favourite duck call and spiff it up with some linseed oil. Bad idea. Ruined the tone and weakened the volume considerably. That was years ago and its still not (dry?) right. When I do refrets, the board gets a light sanding and then a polishing with 0000 steel wool. No oils, silicones, nada! And clean the grease from your fingers off the neck when you put your guitar away. It's supposed to be dry.


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## Tarbender

I've used lemon oil for about 30 years and have never had a problem but after reading about Docter Fret and seeing what it has done to my fretboard iwouldn't use anything else: http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm


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## dwagar

I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.

(there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)


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## Lemmy Hangslong

I use the Dunlop Leon oil product and also have Dr. Stringfellow... both are good IMHO.

KHINGPYNN


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## nine

I've always used Liquid Gold. Once every couple of string changes.


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## davetcan

dwagar said:


> I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.
> 
> (there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)


Me too. Great stuff.


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## GuitarsCanada

Is this goo good for all types of woods?


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## Coustfan'01

I use to use linseed oil and terpentine to clean and oil the fretboard , but i now use the dunlop stuff . They both seem to work pretty well .


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## bickertfan

dwagar said:


> I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.
> 
> (there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)



Alright I'm in - placed order for fret doctor


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## GuitarsCanada

I was just watching that program, How It's Made. They were showing how guitars are made at Godin. They were usuing mineral oil on the fretboards. That's a new one on me.


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## Sneaky

GuitarsCanada said:


> I was just watching that program, How It's Made. They were showing how guitars are made at Godin. They were usuing mineral oil on the fretboards. That's a new one on me.


I think most name brand lemon oils are just mineral oil with essence of lemon added. Personally, I never use anything on my fretboards except possibly a damp cloth to clean off the grunge. I figure my greazy fingers have enough oil on them already (especially after eating pizza and wings :tongue: ). 

I think most vintage acoustic guitar experts will tell you oiling a rosewood board is a definite no-no.

Pete


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## bolero

I just use a rag with olive or vegetable oil to wipe the strings down every once in a while...keeps them slick, corrossion free & easy to play. plus it keeps the fretboard from drying out, and they're both non-toxic ( ie you can dig into that bag of potato chips without worrying about ingesting linseed/mineral oil etc )


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## Milkman

*Clarinet Bore Oil*

I have been told by a couple of luthiers whom I respect that they prefer Clarinet Bore Oil as it provides moisture but doesn't leave any residue.



I used to use lemon oil but these days I just clean them and don't bother with oil at all.


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## GuitarsCanada

I need to get to work on a few of my guitars. They need a little oil.


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## The Kicker Of Elves

"Circa 1850" Pure Lemon Oil.

Works great, it really makes a difference...rosewood on one of my guitars was getting pretty dry and pale.


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## Michelle

I can't remember the name of it, made by Ernie Ball or whoever. Fret ease? Comes in a little gold plastic bottle that has a dauber in it, it contains mineral oil. Someone told me to only use mineral oil and I believed him. Sure does a nice job but my hands are black after a couple hrs, maybe it's the cheap Hartke strings, they sound good though.

:wave:


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## djem

Thought I'd post some links from other forums on this timeless debate. Read on and learn.

What I have learned is that:
1) There are different types of 'Lemon Oil'. There are the natural types (good) whereas others are petroluem based (not so good) with additives like silicone which may not be good.
2) There's a lot of discussion on Linseed at the Les Paul Forum, where Dan Erlewine is a contributor in the tech section, and even Dan says to use it very sparingly.
3) I personally would not use linseed oil for two reasons. A) it never really dries (creates a layer that creates even more grunge by collecting skin and skin oils) and B) it's dangerous if you don't use precautions. IE: rags soaked with linseed left crumpled up will spontaneously combust. True fact.
4) Lots of folks seem to swear by Fret Doctor (bore oil).
5) I've always cleaned my boards using a damp cloth and scraping the grunge off with a flat piece of plastic like a credit card. I would apply a very thin coat of _natural_ lemon oil and then wipe it off. Never soaked it. Never had a problem either.

Here are some links:

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=223154&highlight=fretboard&page=2

http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136812

http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136546


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## The Kicker Of Elves

The lemon oil I'm using doesn't have any silicone, etc.

I did some reading and picked up the Circa 1850 at Home Depot.

The can will last nearly forever as each application uses very little.


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## djem

Here's another link for your reading pleasure:

http://www.muzique.com/schem/fret.htm


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## Geek

ajcoholic said:


> Watco danish oil.


Man, isn't that stuff awesome? :smile:

I won't use anything else since I've tried that (on any wood project).

Cheers!


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## Ship of fools

I have several guitars over 40 years + and have never used anything on the fret board , the closest they come to get a cleaning is some very fine wire,and thats only used if there is a build up on that is noticeable, other than that I am very old school, for me nothing extra is needed as long as you are playing them and wiping them down with a nice soft old cotton t-shirt.But hey thats just me, and what works for you, works, right, all that really matters is that you are playing your ax and hopefully sharing your music with someone or a whole bunch, so rock on baby:rockon2:.Ship


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## Canman

Nose Grease (oil from your face)

-but if you have a tendacy to wash your face alot it takes longer with the strings off. Its an old trick.:smile:


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## zontar

I've used Tres Hombres Lemon Oil for many many years--no problems.
My Iceman & Mustang (both rosewood fingerboards) haven't suffered from it.
And a little does go a long way. For that time frame I'm on my second bottle, but only because the first one leaked one time I moved. They haven't made this stuff for years, and a friend has tried a lot of other brands--but nothing comes close.


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## Guest

Anyone still have a stick of _fast fret_?
Man that stuff goes a long way.
Great for basses too.


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## Kenmac

Yep, I always use Fast Fret. Not only does it clean the strings but it really does condition the fretboard.



laristotle said:


> Anyone still have a stick of _fast fret_?
> Man that stuff goes a long way.
> Great for basses too.


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## Michelle

laristotle said:


> Anyone still have a stick of _fast fret_?
> Man that stuff goes a long way.
> Great for basses too.


That's what I was talking about in #46, made by GHS, (but I got it all wrong). Very handy storage/application. Doesn't leak, doesn't stink, and fast frets!


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## fullscale

Oddly enough I was checking out Freddy's Frets website today and he recommends a product called Gorgomyte from Kentucky I think. I've never tried it. What I use on my rosewood fingerboards is the 0000 steel wool and Tung Oil. I learned that trick from the 12th Fret website! I've had no problems with my boards using Tung Oil. Ernie Ball Musicman maple necks come unfinished and rubbed with gunstock oil, which is what they tell you to use from then on.


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## Rydock

I ordered a bottle of Fret Doctor last week and used it on my guitars. The stuff is as amazing as they describe it on the site. Gave my ebony a nice glassy look to it, and naturally darkened rosewood without discolouring it.


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## soundhound6

*Fretboard oil*

Hi, The tung/danish oils are the way to go,IMO.
I cut pure tung oil with 50% pure artist's grade turpentine in a small container.About 1 fl. oz. should be plenty.This thin finish will absorb into the 
wood and not create a surface finish like varnish.It still feels like wood and not "plasticy".
The finish is water and alkali resistant.It is an elastic finish, that also resists
marring and checking because of the integration with the wood.It dries to a matt finish. (Can be used with food items, if used pure, without thinning.)
The Chinese have been using it for centuries for stone and wood in buildings,
as well as boatbuilding as a preservative/water repellant.:bow:
I'll put on a couple of coats rubbed out with 4/0 steelwool a few times a year,
during a full string change.
I am building a new hardwood cab for my YCV-20 and will use my 50/50 mix on that puppy to be sure!!lofu Have a great day....Jan


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## YJMUJRSRV

gone fishing


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## smorgdonkey

laristotle said:


> Anyone still have a stick of _fast fret_?


I used to use that but now I use Dr.Duck's AXWAX...no real wax in it and no silicone. Great for cleaning fingerboards and much better than the FastFret when doing an entire fingerboard when you have strings off (particularly a new acquisition which is grimey!!).


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## z0z0

Do these oils help against humidity caused neck warpage? That is - using oil on the neck will it help ward off dry weather?


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## Diablo

z0z0 said:


> Do these oils help against humidity caused neck warpage? That is - using oil on the neck will it help ward off dry weather?


No, their just for nourishing the fretboard wood (rosewood or possibly ebony). 
The neck is a whole 'nother matter, but as its usually protected with finish, not such a big deal. I've seen your posts on this topic, dont worry about it, summer is a humid season here...winter is when things dry out.
Most of the humidity related issues I've heard of, have to do with the dry air in apartment buildings. Still, regular setups and truss rod adjustments should keep things fine. Humidity or lack of, isnt such a big deal, its sudden drastic changes between humidity and dryness that cause turmoil.


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## shiva

You guys may find this strange, but I use Wildcat brand Pinball cleaner if my guitar is very dirty, or for a new project with a very old and mistreated guitar. As a old Arcade op, you never use household cleaners, especially water based cleaners like furniture polish on wood.

There is nothing better to clean wood than this, as it was made to be as gentle as possible, especially on old 40 year old paint that's cracking. It does a wonderful job of cleaning, doesn't dry out the wood, and is gentle enough not to damage or cause chips in the wood or paint, and drys pretty fast. It leaves a nice surface as well. You can also use shuffleboard cleaner in a pinch, but I would say this is only for major cleans. In theory, it should work on a regular basis, but because it's so tough, it doesn't need to be applied very often.

I've had beer and all sorts of stuff on my machines, it usually is just wiped away with a dry cloth, and then reapplied to restore, so I would suspect oil from fingers wouldn't be much of a problem.

Not to sure with the pinball wax that's put on afterwards, but it was made to be tough, shiny, and reduce the friction and damage of a little steel ball running on wood for 24 hours a day for 3 months. One of these days, have to try it on a beater just to see what happens. This stuff has been around for 60 years, and we still use it today.

By the way, pinball cleaners are alcohol based, not water based, and I don't think there's oil in there either.


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## [email protected]

true oil after a sanding up to 12,000 grit micro mesh. gets that ebony looking like glass


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## snacker

i use hawes lemon oil - just a dab, so a bottle will last you a lifetime


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## Ringwraith

Fret Doctor is great!
http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm

Sean


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## SmokinJoe

*Fingerboard 101*

In the past hour, on this forum and several others, I've read about at least 20 different products people use or have used on their fretboards with some measure of success (Armour-all, lighter fluid/Naptha, Tung oil, beeswax, denatured alcohol, danish oil etc). Some of these products may seem to work very well but have negative effects. I don't know if one method or the other is actually the "best"; it seems like different products work in slightly different ways. The two most popular solutions are lemon oil and linseed oil.

*Lemon oil* is (arguably?) the industry standard for cleaning fretboards. Lemon oil is not made from lemons. Do not rub lemon juice on your guitar . Lemon oil is made from mineral oil with some additives (I think). There are several different kinds of lemon oil, fortunately the one we want is the cheap one with the fewest additives. Its available at any hardware store in the section with the furniture polish, or you can buy it from a guitar shop (it will cost more for a smaller bottle, but this stuff lasts forever). Lemon oil is an effective cleaner for heavily soiled and grungy boards. It does, however, strip the natural oils from your wood and replace them with its own oils, which will evaporate over time and may leave your fingerboard drier than it was. Lemon oil is poisonous and may be flammable as well, and prolonged or excessive use may cause loosening of the frets according to some players.

*Linseed oil*, on the other hand, is more like a varnish. It is a natural product with no additives, and edible varieties are available. It drys hard and creates a sealed finished, but it will allow plant oils to penetrate slightly. It can take from hours to weeks to dry properly (depending on if it is boiled or not). Also, some players complain that the smell is off-putting, and linseed oil on rags and brushes *MAY SPONTANEOUSLY BURST INTO FLAME* if not disposed of properly. Seriously. Some players still swear by linseed oil, and many method books recommend its use.

The best solution I've found so far for conditioning and maintaining the fretboard is *light mineral oil*. Its not very useful as a cleaner, and therefore should only be applied to clean fingerboards, but its inert, has no smell, will not go bad or evaporate, and you can drink it to keep you regular (no joke). Apparently, Hamer and PRS both recommend this over lemon oil. Just don't over do it; this oil does not evaporate and you only need a very small amount. Just enough to maintain proper humidity and keep the board clean. A brand-name fingerboard conditioner (Jim Dunlop, Planet Waves, etc) would probably be just as effective, with some added cleaning power. If you wash your hands before you play and wipe down your board when you change strings (provided you change them often) then this should be the only product you need!

My fretboard cleaning and conditioning routine for heavily grunged boards goes as follows:

1)Cover pickups/sound-hole completely with paper and green painters tape. Do not skip this step; doing so will cause much un-needed aggravation later on.

2)Apply a thin coat of lemon oil evenly over the entire board, allow several minutes to penetrate.

3) Using a small piece of 0000 grade steel wool (or a similar plastic scrubbing pad) gently work the board, going with the grain of the wood. As you work, particles of steel wool will break off and will be attracted to your pickups, make sure to clean all these away when you are finished.

4) Use a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe away excess dirt and oil, and to polish your board to a shine.

5) Cover frets with painters tape and use 500 grit sandpaper to carefully polish fret wires (if needed).

At this point I would replace my strings. After a couple of weeks (the next string change, or when I noticed the board getting dry) I would condition it with light mineral oil after rubbing down with a clean, lint-free cloth. Keep in mind these methods are only appropriate for ebony, rosewood, or unfinished maple boards. Finished boards (most maple) will not benefit from oil treatments, I clean them with a microfibre cloth and a small amount of normal guitar polish.

A poorly maintained board will effect the tone and playability of your instrument. The most important thing to remember about board maintenance is to do it regularly. Its actually alot less work in the long run. You should never have to use the cleaning method I outlined above. If you have a Floyd Rose or similar free-floating trem system and don't know how to remove all the strings at once, your friendly neighborhood guitar tech can show you how to temporarily block the bridge to allow easy board access. In fact, those guys are full of useful information and tips and if you can befriend one I would highly recommend you do so.

Happy shredding!


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## jimihendrix

hey there...i used good old windex on maple necked strats...gives the added bonus of cleaning the strings...
since all my boards are rosewood these days...i use "murphy's lemon oil soap"...i run a line down the neck and lightly work it in with a cloth...then lightly "dry" the neck with another quick wipe...the whole process takes about two minutes...the neck remains shiney and slick for days and the neck plays "faster" for leads...


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## lbrown1

jimihendrix said:


> hey there...i used good old windex on maple necked strats...gives the added bonus of cleaning the strings...
> since all my boards are rosewood these days...i use "murphy's lemon oil soap"...i run a line down the neck and lightly work it in with a cloth...then lightly "dry" the neck with another quick wipe...the whole process takes about two minutes...the neck remains shiney and slick for days and the neck plays "faster" for leads...


hmmm - sounds interesting - gonna give it a try!


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## GuitarsCanada

resurrecting this biatch to get some fresh input


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## jimsz

GuitarsCanada said:


> resurrecting this biatch to get some fresh input


Okay, how the heck did you know I just finished restringing my Strat and Goldtop and oiling both fretboards? Are you psychic? 

I use just about anything I can get my hands on at the time as long as it doesn't have any additives. This time it was no name brand 100% Canola Oil. Both fretboards were starting to dry out so I gooped them up real good and let sit for a while until the oil completely soaked up into the Rosewood. They are very happy fretboards now.


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## Bubb

I'm Fret Dr fan here .
I only use it about once a year (if that),usually sometime during heating season .


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## GuitarsCanada

It seems to me that some boards go dryer faster than others. I have had guitars that you can clearly see they are starving for some kind of moisture and then others that seem to stay nice for very long periods of time. I am talking rosewood here. I am sure there are different grades and qualities that make a difference as well


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## smorgdonkey

My post from 07-04-2008: 


smorgdonkey said:


> I used to use that but now I use Dr.Duck's AXWAX...no real wax in it and no silicone. Great for cleaning fingerboards and much better than the FastFret when doing an entire fingerboard when you have strings off (particularly a new acquisition which is grimey!!).


Still using Dr.Duck's AXWAX. Great stuff. I got it at Axe Music on the Blackfoot Trail in Calgary about 2005 or 2006...still using the same bottle and I have done probably 40 guitars with it. I won't likely use another product unless I can't find more when I finally run out of this stuff.


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## mario

YJMUJRSRV said:


> This is an awfully long and stupid thread considering this is the luthier corner.
> 
> I’ll add this since I’m sure to be hated for saying the above but its true.
> 
> All those ridiculous concoctions you can buy are made of one or more of the things people are mentioning – linseed, lemon, Danish
> 
> Anyone who is a luthier knows what to use.
> 
> Those who are not are going to argue till the cows come home. I’ve heard this debate so many times and fixed so many necks where somebody drenched their board in lemon oil then wonder why the frets are popping out.
> 
> It doesn’t matter what kind of oil – oil is oil. Obviously the natural sources are the best. The key and the only absolute right is a little dab will do ya.


You don't have to be nasty about it. This thread is in the "Electric Guitar" section not the "Luthier Corner".


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## Guitar101

YJMUJRSRV said:


> All those ridiculous concoctions you can buy are made of one or more of the things people are mentioning – linseed, lemon, Danish
> 
> Anyone who is a luthier knows what to use. Those who are not are going to argue till the cows come home. I’ve heard this debate so many times and fixed so many necks where somebody drenched their board in lemon oil then wonder why the frets are popping out. It doesn’t matter what kind of oil – oil is oil. Obviously the natural sources are the best. The key and the only absolute right is a little dab will do ya.


So I can use a natural source lemon oil if I use just enough to clean the fretboard? That's what I have been using when I change strings.

*Update* (info from the web): _Lemon oil is usually manufactured in a cold-extraction process. The zest, or yellow part of the peel, is machine-pressed to squeeze out the scented oil. 1,500 lemons are needed to produce one pound (.45 kilograms) of essential oil._


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## J S Moore

Lemon oil is a petroleum product, do I don't know what a natural source would be. I use bore oil, which I believe is a mineral oil, which has been used on wood instruments for years. Fret Doctor is the brand. I've been working on the same 30 ml bottle for the last couple of years.

I don't think I would use vegetable oil though, that will go rancid after a while.


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## GuitarsCanada

J S Moore said:


> Lemon oil is a petroleum product, do I don't know what a natural source would be. I use bore oil, which I believe is a mineral oil, which has been used on wood instruments for years. Fret Doctor is the brand. I've been working on the same 30 ml bottle for the last couple of years.
> 
> I don't think I would use vegetable oil though, that will go rancid after a while.


Yes. Prefer not to smell like a Waldorf salad when playing either


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## grumpyoldman

For rosewood and ebony boards, I have always used Double-boiled Linseed Oil. Never had a problem with it being non-drying, but it certainly keeps the board from drying out. For my non-finished maple boards (EBMMs and Peavey Wolfgang), I use Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and Birchwood Casey Gunstock Wax. For the finished maple boards (Fenders), I just wipe them clean at string change time and use no oil product at all...

John
thegrumpyoldman


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## bluzfish

I grew up playing guitar in BC and never considered oiling my non-laquer finished fretboards except to make them look prettier. I used Watco oil. Like the hot sauce commercial says - "I put that s**t on everything!". Then I moved to Alberta and started to notice shrinkage in my fretboards. I've been using the Dunlop oil ever since and I find it does a very good job in maintaining the fretboards and preventing shrinkage. I would try the Watco oil again but that s**t is hard to find!

Eric


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## BEACHBUM

Baba Rumraisin said:


> Lemon Pledge has been known as the bane of furniture refinishers for a long time. Silicone is what gives you that nice shine on your tabletop.


 Not a real good idea. Silicone based products will leach into your guitars finish and chemically bond with it. Once silicone comes into contact with your guitar finish it becomes forever unrepairable since the silicone cannot be removed and nothing known to man will stick to it. You may think you are only applying it to your fingerboard but what happens is that once its on your fingers everyplace that you touch the guitar becomes contaminated and trying to wipe it off only spreads it around and makes things worse.


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## Destropiate

I just use Gibson fretboard conditioner when I change my strings or whenever there is too much of my DNA on my guitar. It seems to do a good job.


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## BRXM

For guitars that don't have any cracks or problem areas, I use Planet Waves Hydrate or Lemon Oil. Used lemon oil for years with no issues on any guitars. For guitars with larger cracks in the rosewood from drying out, I found a very interesting product that helps quite a bit. MPC brand, Firepower FP-10 firearms lubricant. Believe it or not, this lubricant is also used to refinish wood, primarily rifle stocks or pistol grips that have cracked and dried and it helps rehydrate the wood and reduce the size of the cracks and prevent warping. You just use a Qtip reasonably soaked in FP10, wipe it over the fretboard and edges, wait 1-2 minutes and wipe it off thoroughly with a clean cloth. By the next day, a lot of small cracks will disappear and the fretboard will be smooth and quick. You usually only have to do this once and from then on, use lemon oil to keep it lubed. I had a past relationship with the company that makes this product and I know for sure that it really works and will not damage the fretboard, just follow the above instructions and only use it to "repair" fretboards and not for regular maintenance. I have used this stuff for refinishing a number of wood products including furniture for years and its quite amazing. FYI, FP10 will bond with the frets(it does that to metals) and make them more resistant to wear and easier to do bends.


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## jimsz

J S Moore said:


> I don't think I would use vegetable oil though, that will go rancid after a while.


I looked into that and found that oils such as canola, linseed, etc. will oxidize quickly in a matter of hours into a solid polymer, which is actually quite desirable for wood finishing and a base for paint, just not for eating, of course.


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## torndownunit

I don't know if this is a good or bad thing because I rarely oil my boards. But I have used a very small amount of olive oil in the past to do it, and it works great. I more use it for a cleaner because it removes junk really well. I only looked up on forums after the fact, and people say it 'sits' on the board too long. But in the amounts I use it, I have never had that issue. It absorbs fine and seems to clean and condition quite well.


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## Todd68

dwagar said:


> I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.
> 
> (there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)


Same here.


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## Morkolo

I use the Dunlop lemon oil once every blue moon, it's all that's available to me locally.


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## Electraglide

What ever happens to be handy. Which around here is usually non-synthetic 20/50 motor-cycle oil. A little on the finger tips, play the guitar for a while, remove the strings and wipe down the guitar....especially the fretboard, put on new strings. Yes, it will darken lighter woods and too much might make the wood swell but that can be said of any oil. Might sound strange to some but it works for me. And before I do this I vacuum the guitar; removes dust, lint, cat hairs etc. that could be rubbed into the guitar. Works a lot better than just wiping down the guitar before oiling it.


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## Canadian Charlie

I use the Dunlop 65 Ultimate lemon oil every time I change strings on my guitars, like to give them 2 applications.


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## Robert1950




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## Ti-Ron

I got some great results with mineral oil. This is the same oil I use for my chippng block in the kitchen. If it's good for food, why not for my guitar? 
Oiled my guitar for the first time this autumn and BAM what a change. My fretboard is in better shape now! Like a new one!


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## guitarbiker

I've used zinolin from Denmark for years, sort of a cream used on fine unfinished furniture. It smells like fish eggs! Yum!


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## Mooh

I'm very much in the oil of Aphrodite camp when I don't trust my own body oils and Dunlop Fretboard 65. Sparingly, quite sparingly.

Peace, Mooh.


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## Diablo

Linseed oil usually, or planet waves fretboard conditioner.


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## jrguitars

Lemon Oil for Maple fretboards and Planet Waves Hydrate for Rosewood.


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## Jim DaddyO

My first choice for a RW board would be a drying oil with Boiled linseed being #1. Danish oil, Watco oil, any oil is a variant of oil (linseed or tung), thinners, varnish or wax. It may not have all the ingredients, and it may have other stuff added, but that is the basic formula. Polimerized tung oil would be in this group of drying oils

I was leery of raw linseed until I started watching Dave in Toronto on You Tube. I do not agree with everything he does, but he has sound reasoning and a long history of using it, so I can't argue his logic or his sources. If you watch his application, the oil is not allowed to stay on the board for any length of time.

I have had the same acoustic for 20 years and maybe once a year I give it a good cleaning at a string change and rub in some olive oil. I just dampen the tip of my finger and rub it in, then wipe it with a paper towel. Again, the contact time is very short. I use olive oil because it is what I have on hand and olive oil does not go rancid. I would prefer BLO (boiled linseed oil) but it is not on hand (yet). 

BTW if you are using BLO or tung oil watch what you do with the rags. I lay mine flat on a concrete block. There is a danger of rags catching fire if crumpled or folded as the oils heat as they dry. Hang them from a clothes line or something to dry and them dispose of them once cured.

Maple boards usually have some sort of finish on them that does not need rejuvenating. My own has tru-oil.


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## cheezyridr

truth is 95 % of the guys on this forum don't keep guitars more than a year or two. makes fret board oil even more pointless than it already is, when you consider this factor. of course there are some exceptions, but the avg guy here turns over instruments pretty regular. in 30 yrs i've never once oiled a guitar neck, i doubt i ever will. you guys believe what you want, but i've never seen a dried-out fret board ever, in my life, that would have been "brought back" with some kinda oil.
sometimes i think some of you guys still chase rainbows looking for leprechauns.


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## Adcandour

I use lemon oil on my ebony fretboard. It works.


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## doriangrey

cheezyridr said:


> truth is 95 % of the guys on this forum don't keep guitars more than a year or two. makes fret board oil even more pointless than it already is, when you consider this factor. of course there are some exceptions, but the avg guy here turns over instruments pretty regular. in 30 yrs i've never once oiled a guitar neck, i doubt i ever will. you guys believe what you want, but i've never seen a dried-out fret board ever, in my life, that would have been "brought back" with some kinda oil.
> sometimes i think some of you guys still chase rainbows looking for leprechauns.


I believe there is some truth to what you say...depends on the climate you live in as well...out here on the west coast it's never dry for very long so I don't think we really need to worry too much about our guitars drying out ;o) I have a '83 Strat that I've owned for over 20 years now and I have never once oiled the fret board...


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## cheezyridr

*IF* the fretboard dried out, why would that be a bad thing? allegedly, the whole cool thing about vintage les pauls is the dry wood makes the tone better according to some. yet i never hear of people buying old guitars and putting new fretboards on them. and anyhow, if the wood dries, what is it that comes out of it to make it dry? IT'S WATER. so somehow replacing the water with oil is the thing to do? to me none of it makes any sense.


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## ezcomes

Sorry to resurrect an oldie...

do ebony boards NEED to be oiled? Im reading different things

best oil if needed?


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## Adcandour

ezcomes said:


> Sorry to resurrect an oldie...
> 
> do ebony boards NEED to be oiled? Im reading different things
> 
> best oil if needed?


I think the answer is probably going to be as varied as what you're finding on line. If it helps, and I'm not sure it will, I have never felt a need to oil my ebony or maple boards. It has always been rosewood - and I use ernie ball wonder wipes.


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## Steadfastly

I don't think they need to be oiled but wiped clean now and again is a good idea if only to keep the grime off your strings so they don't gum up or start to rust and go "dead".


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## ed2000

Not going to make friends here but for the last 40 years(74 SG, 75 D18) I've been using WD40 on rosewood, ebony and lacquered maple without any adverse effects - apply, rub in and buff off until cloth remains clean.
I used tongue oil one time but I cut my lip on a sharp fret end:sEm_oops:


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## Guest

A friend suggested using using WD40 on the back of the neck too.
Never tried it because I didn't hear of anyone else using it.


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## JBFairthorne

I use Dunlop Fretboard 65 Ultimate Lemon Oil. I've been using it regularly (every string change) for several months now and noticed a vast improvement in the feel of the rosewood under my fingers, even when it's almost time for new strings. I've had no adverse effects. Honestly, the fretboard is in better shape than it was when I bought it 20 plus years ago.

I can't speak to "best" but any product from a major manufacturer DESIGNED for this use is probably fine. Using a product designed for something else would scare me a little.


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## sulphur

I still use Gorgomyte, started my last pack, I'll have to order more.
Plenty of time though, the first packs lasted a long time.

Cleans and conditions in one pass, sole purpose of this product. 8)


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## cheezyridr

i would think 11 pages of answers would be enough to go on, if only to point out that people here just don't agree on whether it's necessary or not. i don't think it is, and i have yet to see anyone post a pic of a board that NEEDED to be oiled because it was too dry, and what it looked like after they did. might as well use beccel for all the good it does. the guitar i sold to buy my strat was 35 yrs old, it needed no oil, i put no oil on it while i owned it, and it played like a dream. and it's not the first old guitar i've owned. the 335 was 7 or 8 yrs old, it also didn't need oiling. 

it's snake oil and nothing more. when was the last time you needed to oil the inside of a speaker cab? they're made of wood, they're unfinished (usually) on the inside, and guess what? they last for half a century or more without ever being oiled


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## sulphur

Here are some before and afters...

Before...

































After...

































...and the used Gorgomyte...









That was a Fernandes I picked up on Kijiji.
It was out on a stand, when I went to the guys place, near a fireplace.
That was the driest board that I'd ever seen.


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## Maxer

I like the look of the after photos, but in the end isn't that just an aesthetic improvement? I imagine the neck felt the same to the fingers.

I dunno. I used to oil my necks with different products, but I gave up after noticing zero real change. I just clean them from time to time, just to take off excess guk. But that's about it.


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## cheezyridr

that IS the difference in those pics. the "after" board is cleaner. the wood doesn't appear to be fuller in any way. the grain looks the same to my eye. i think wonder wipes would do the same thing, only without putting oil on anything. unless there's something i don't see/recognize?


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