# Tele Lovers, Please School me on Bridges



## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

As the title indicates, I'd like to learn more about the various brands and design variations of Telecaster bridges.

I've used a few Wilkinson three saddle compensated units which I believe are supposed to be a refinement on the original Fender three saddle design.

Please tell me your favourite similar bridge and why you prefer it. The Wilkinson's are cheap. I would be interested in your POV.

Thanks


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## Merlin (Feb 23, 2009)

Most of my teles have had the Gotoh style 6 saddle bridge. I like the adjustability of the independent saddles. As someone who alternates between sets with and w/o a wound third, a 3 saddle design wouldn’t work for me.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

My tech recommended the joe barden bridge for the ayr tele, it's been solid.


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

The closer it is to looking like a high school shop project that was left outside, the more authentic it is.


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## zdogma (Mar 21, 2006)

I've used a bunch. My current tele has a Rutters-I like their saddles better than any other brand, but the bridge is heavier and thicker than standard, which can be good or bad. Callaham is very similar but their saddles aren't quite as nice. I really like the Glendale bridge plate (thin and twangy), but the saddles weren't as nice as Rutters.

I have one of the new three saddle Gotoh's that is is sitting in my parts box, I'm about to install on a build, it checks all the boxes for me-classic style and build, offset three saddles with a string groove and its about half the price of the premium builds. Mine is the relic-its an MJT build, not sure if they make a shiny one as well






Gotoh In-Tune Relic Bridge for Tele - StewMac


Gotoh's In-Tune saddles have unique grooves molded into them which move each string's point of contact for more exact intonation than traditional barrel saddles.




www.stewmac.com


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

My Tele uses a NN economy brand. Completely disassemble it, remove flashings and other sharp protrusions.; smooth it with very fine emery and buff it on the bench polisher with a loaded pad of BeaverCraft P02 polishing compound (green). The chrome plating is so thin that the buffing wears off the plating in areas, to reveal the copper used in the plating process...maybe a form of antiquity.


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## Jeffery Young (Mar 5, 2019)

I've used a few different bridges, at a range of prices, and honestly my favourite one so far is this one: Vintage Tele -style Bridge with 3 Brass Saddles - Nickel Finish


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## ga20t (Jul 22, 2010)

I prefer the original 3-saddle brass barrel, intonated with files and a strobe. As accurate as you want to be, and more accurate than the shot in the dark approach of pre-intonated sets.


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

I've not experimented much with different bridges with my Tele's over the years but I think if I were I'd give Rutters a try. What I have done on every tele I've ever owned except a Masterbuilt Nocaster I had, is change the saddles out for compensated. Out of all the ones I've tried I've like the Rutters saddles the best. One of these days I might try a Rutters bridge.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

So far from my experience, I find the Rutters Saddles the best among the ones I have tried. The Fender compensated saddles don't have grooves on them and that's an issue, at least for me. I'm looking at getting the Rutters Bridge or maybe the Glendale bridge, which is a bit thinner than the Rutters, for my next partcaster build, which would be based on the 1951 Esquire. I don't find the differences between the bridges to be something that I can really tell the difference.


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## YaReMi (Mar 9, 2006)

I installed Gotoh compensated brass saddles on my Tele and they are perfect. I can get the intonation no problem and they look Tele-good.


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## Jamie McQuistin (Aug 20, 2018)

I'm also using the Gotoh In-Tune brass compensated saddles and they're great and quite affordable.


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## Powdered Toast Man (Apr 6, 2006)

I love reading forum posts where guys brag about "upgrading" their USA made Fender bridge with a cheap Chinese made Wilkinson. Allrighty.

I've had a Glendale bridge and saddles. Didn't notice any difference in tone. I didn't care for the cut down sides so I switched back the the Fender plate. I've also used both Rutters and Callaham saddles. The Callaham are of superb quality, as are the Rutters. Between the two I prefer the Rutters only for the aesthetic look. They look like regular saddles whereas the Callaham are obviously compensated. 

As for bridge plates I've never had any reason not to use the stock Fender bent steel plates. They're making them on the same press they've used since the 1950's so that's good enough for me.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Powdered Toast Man said:


> I love reading forum posts where guys brag about "upgrading" their USA made Fender bridge with a cheap Chinese made Wilkinson. Allrighty.


I’m not a tele guy but I’m curious- what’s wrong with the Wilkinson?


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## Powdered Toast Man (Apr 6, 2006)

gtrguy said:


> I’m not a tele guy but I’m curious- what’s wrong with the Wilkinson?


I think my comment was pretty self explanatory. There's plenty of forum posts all over about the softness of the brass causing grooves to form. Others about the cheap screw heads stripping because the metal is soft. Basically they're about on par with any southeast Asian import parts.


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## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

I have these ones; both are stock. They work real good so I don’t want to mess with them.

Since I opened this thread, my FB page is being bombarded with ads for aftermarket telecaster bridges..... lol


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## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Powdered Toast Man said:


> I think my comment was pretty self explanatory. There's plenty of forum posts all over about the softness of the brass causing grooves to form. Others about the cheap screw heads stripping because the metal is soft. Basically they're about on par with any southeast Asian import parts.


I found that the Squier Classic Vibe hardware was actually better then the Wilkinson. Larger saddle height screws, and the plate seemed thicker.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I like my Callaham with the compensated brass bars. Not a bg fan of the huge plate especially when you have a really nice top.


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## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

knight_yyz said:


> I like my Callaham with the compensated brass bars. Not a bg fan of the huge plate especially when you have a really nice top.


That's pretty dang nice !! 
So, once you commit to 3 screws behind the string thru, there's no going back right? Is the Callaham 10.5 or 10.8 string spacing and does it really matter ? They appear to have the term "vintage" but most 3 screw bridges I have seen (aftermarket) are 10.5mm or unspecified.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

The bridge is Fender American Standard 2-1/16 spacing


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

knight_yyz said:


> I like my Callaham with the compensated brass bars. Not a bg fan of the huge plate especially when you have a really nice top.


That is a beauty!


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## Roots-Picker (Dec 29, 2017)

I have a Joe Barden bridge and saddles on my Neville Tele and a Rutters bridge and saddle assembly on my ‘no-name‘ partscaster Tele. Both sustain all day long and intonate perfectly. I just picked up a Hahn Model ‘C‘ Tele that has Hahn’s combo string-through/top load milled steel bridge with compensated brass saddles. Seems super stable as well; can’t wait to try it in ‘top load mode‘!

A brief Rutters story... During my partscaster build, I had problems getting one of my Rutters saddles to intonate properly and so I emailed Marc Rutters to see if maybe I had done something wrong. He replied promptly to ask about string gauge but in the end sent me a replacement saddle at no charge, no questions asked. Didn’t charge me for US postage and even included one of his cool Nocaster nickel switch tips for free! A true gentleman who really cares about his customers.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Thanks to all who replied to this thread. I'm reading lots of love for the Rutters and Callaham bridges.

One of those might end up being my choice.

I like being able to intonate each string separately, but I really like the way a three saddle ashtray style bridge feels on a Tele.

I have used Wilkinson Tele bridges and had no trouble of obvious defects, but I recognize that a "pre-compensated" saddle is to an extent, wishful thinking.

I think I will also consult my set up man to see if he has a preference.

Again, thanks for taking your time to post.


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## Rick in the Patch (Feb 28, 2021)

The one innovation that has made the biggest difference for me is the trimming the plate edge on the treble side. I've broken a nail or two too many times.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Rick in the Patch said:


> The one innovation that has made the biggest difference for me is the trimming the plate edge on the treble side. I've broken a nail or two too many times.


I've seen some with the sides cut down. I'd have to try that to see if that distracted me. It's sort of a solution to a problem I don't really have, but then again, anytime I've gigged with a Tele it has been for one or two songs in a set, not all night.

Someone who spends more time on a Tele might have a different perspective, so thanks.


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## weaksauce (Mar 20, 2006)

Another vote for Rutters stuff here. I’ve had a few bridges, knobs, control plates and other hardware from them and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy from them again. Everything feels high quality, plus the option of having nickel or chrome finish is nice.


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## Vally (Aug 18, 2016)

Merlin said:


> Most of my teles have had the Gotoh style 6 saddle bridge. I like the adjustability of the independent saddles. As someone who alternates between sets with and w/o a wound third, a 3 saddle design wouldn’t work for me.
> Same here. Makes intonation adjustments a lot easier


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## DavidP (Mar 7, 2006)

After jumping down this rabbit hole fairly deeply over the years, my $.02 (CAD), in the context of 3-saddle configurations, is:
a) sand flat the base of your typical stamped bridge
and
b) to invest in HQ compensated saddles -- I especially like Rutters. 

I've also just installed a Gotoh modern 6-saddle bridge on a CV Thinline. Different but I like it so far, but now face the dilemma of too-high saddle height adjustment screws ripping my flesh. I either will have to grind/cut them (ugh..) or try to locate some shorter than 10mm M3 grub screws (which a Goggle search suggests are non-existent in Canada, in spite of us being a metric domain)...


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## troyhead (May 23, 2014)

For what it's worth, the supposed benefit of some of the more expensive upgraded bridges with cold-rolled steel is that they sit flat against the body better and thus make the pickup less microphonic. I've never tested this, but apparently that's a thing.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

Milkman said:


> I've seen some with the sides cut down. I'd have to try that to see if that distracted me. It's sort of a solution to a problem I don't really have, but then again, anytime I've gigged with a Tele it has been for one or two songs in a set, not all night.
> 
> Someone who spends more time on a Tele might have a different perspective, so thanks.


I played for years with a 62 Reissue. It had the full bridge and I've never had any issues with my finger or nail hitting it. I was actually wondering about those cuts on the sides of the bridge when I started looking at the different kinds of tele bridges. I didn't realize it bothered a lot of folks.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Chito said:


> I played for years with a 62 Reissue. It had the full bridge and I've never had any issues with my finger or nail hitting it. I was actually wondering about those cuts on the sides of the bridge when I started looking at the different kinds of tele bridges. I didn't realize it bothered a lot of folks.


Well, the sides could be considered in the way I suppose, but you get used to that metal being there and when you take it away for some people it will feel strange. I suppose that's the reason most six saddle (modern) Tele bridges are just a flat piece of steel with the rear edge bent up instead of the old ashtray shape.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

Milkman said:


> Well, the sides could be considered in the way I suppose, but you get used to that metal being there and when you take it away for some people it will feel strange. I suppose that's the reason most six saddle (modern) Tele bridges are just a flat piece of steel with the rear edge bent up instead of the old ashtray shape.


There's also the fact that I pick and strum closer to the neck pickup so that's one reason it doesn't bother me. To your point, there's really no need for those extra metal which really doesn't have any purpose. Except for being able to put an ashtray cover on it.


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

If I'm getting the entire bridge, I like Glendale, Callaham and Rutters. The Glendale saddles are a great design because they sized so that the string pressure pushes all three saddles together kind of forming one big compensated saddle for all 6 strings. Also the adjustment screws are very small so there's plenty of room for the string. Those Barden bridges are the opposite- big screws that often cause the string to sit in the hole in the saddle.


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

zztomato said:


> If I'm getting the entire bridge, I like Glendale, Callaham and Rutters. The Glendale saddles are a great design because they sized so that the string pressure pushes all three saddles together kind of forming one big compensated saddle for all 6 strings. Also the adjustment screws are very small so there's plenty of room for the string. Those Barden bridges are the opposite- big screws that often cause the string to sit in the hole in the saddle.
> View attachment 366874


these are my three favs as well. Glendale for a traditional take, also love how they fit together. Rutters/Callaham for some new old ideas. also dig the Bigsby upgrades Callaham offers.


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## pckpat (Aug 19, 2009)

Paul Running said:


> My Tele uses a NN economy brand. Completely disassemble it, remove flashings and other sharp protrusions.; smooth it with very fine emery and buff it on the bench polisher with a loaded pad of BeaverCraft P02 polishing compound (green). The chrome plating is so thin that the buffing wears off the plating in areas, to reveal the copper used in the plating process...maybe a form of antiquity.
> 
> View attachment 366455


I noticed the lack of a low E....open G tuning?


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I see a couple of people using these. At least I can get one. Many of the recommended brands are out of stock presently. 






Gotoh TI-TC1S Vintage Style In-Tune Guitar Bridge With Titanium Saddles : Amazon.ca: Musical Instruments, Stage & Studio


Gotoh TI-TC1S Vintage Style In-Tune Guitar Bridge With Titanium Saddles : Amazon.ca: Musical Instruments, Stage & Studio



www.amazon.ca


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Milkman said:


> I see a couple of people using these. At least I can get one. Many of the recommended brands are out of stock presently.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those work well. I put the version with brass saddles on my son's tele. Gotoh stuff is always good. Consistent quality.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

zztomato said:


> Those work well. I put the version with brass saddles on my son's tele. Gotoh stuff is always good. Consistent quality.


Thanks very much! 

I was hoping their baseline of quality would have some impact on these. Everything I've used from Gotoh so far has been as good or better than the designs they were replicating or improving on.

I ordered the Gotoh unit in the ad I just posted.

I appreciate all the recommendations. I sort of meshed those with the feedback I received from my set up guy and the problem in many cases is unavailability.

I can have this Gotoh next week. That's plenty soon enough. I'm hopeful.


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## marcos (Jan 13, 2009)

I like the look of a compensated 3 brass saddles. It just fits the Tele. I can usually get the intonation close enough for rock and roll.


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Milkman said:


> I ordered the Gotoh unit in the ad I just posted.


Solo has the brass version in stock. A bit cheaper too. Get them both and compare. 😁


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

zztomato said:


> Solo has the brass version in stock. A bit cheaper too. Get them both and compare. 😁


Excellent idea. I'll end up using them both at some point anyway.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

pckpat said:


> I noticed the lack of a low E....open G tuning?


The Keith Richards thing: 5 strings, 3 notes, 2 fingers and one asshole...the extent of my repertoire.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

zztomato said:


> If I'm getting the entire bridge, I like Glendale, Callaham and Rutters. The Glendale saddles are a great design because they sized so that the string pressure pushes all three saddles together kind of forming one big compensated saddle for all 6 strings. Also the adjustment screws are very small so there's plenty of room for the string. Those Barden bridges are the opposite- big screws that often cause the string to sit in the hole in the saddle.
> View attachment 366874



By the way, that's an interesting looking pickup. What's the story on that?


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Milkman said:


> By the way, that's an interesting looking pickup. What's the story on that?


It's a Fralin noiseless SP43. Kind of a p90. Great pickup. I have it paired with a split blade blues special neck. Surprisingly, it sounds very traditional 50's but without hum.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

zztomato said:


> It's a Fralin noiseless SP43. Kind of a p90. Great pickup. I have it paired with a split blade blues special neck. Surprisingly, it sounds very traditional 50's but without hum.


Is the SP42 noisless too? What is the difference? I don't see any in their website.


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Chito said:


> Is the SP42 noisless too? What is the difference? I don't see any in their website.


It's listed as a "split steel poled tele". It uses 43 guage wire though. I think it's the only noiseless version.


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

these are stock on a custom shop closet classic pro from 2013...very pleased with these which fender parts dealer say cant be ordered for some reason


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

I have ear pleasing results with graphtech compensated barrels on certain stock teles


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## b-nads (Apr 9, 2010)

Rutters bridge and saddles are my favorite - feel, quality, tone, intonation - best I've used.


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## mrmatt1972 (Apr 3, 2008)

I don't think there's one right answer. I have a parts caster that has a noname bridge with 6 saddles. Sounds incredible. I've also tried Callaham. Really nice. My fav for ultimate adjustability was the Babicz





__





Babicz FCH-Tele Original Series Single Coil Telecaster Bridge


Buy Babicz FCH-Tele Original Series Single Coil upgrade bridge for Fender Telecaster




fullcontacthardware.com


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## Marshtech (May 8, 2021)

I've used the Wilkinson bridge on my Sting Precision bass. I know it's not a Tele guitar but I've got a Tele bass too, and of all the 2 or 3 barrel bridges on those instruments, I have had good luck with the stock hardware. On the Sting, I tried the Wilkinson as an experiment. It worked better than the stock 'barrel' bridge pieces and I've adjusted it once in 18 years. I don't know if mine is 'cheap' or not, but I've recommended it to others and they've had good results too.


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