# Analogman King of Tone



## Roybruno92 (Jul 20, 2011)

I've never seen one IRL. Want one, trying to get on the wait list. 

Thoughts? Anyone seen this or is it all a myth?XD
:thanks5qx:

b


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## jimsz (Apr 17, 2009)

There are several brand new for sale from guys who waited the 1-2 years and have changed their minds.


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

I know that I wouldn't wait 18-24 months for anything, nevermind a pedal.
More than once, I've tried to figure out from the site as to why such a long delay,
still can't figure it out.
Hire more freaking people rather than leaving customers hang on for so long.
There's nothing about problems getting parts or hold-ups that way.
I just don't get it. Part of the "hype" if you ask me.


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## Roybruno92 (Jul 20, 2011)

sulphur said:


> I know that I wouldn't wait 18-24 months for anything, nevermind a pedal.
> More than once, I've tried to figure out from the site as to why such a long delay,
> still can't figure it out.
> Hire more freaking people rather than leaving customers hang on for so long.
> ...


I defintely agree with you, question is, are they that worth it? XD


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## 4345567 (Jun 26, 2008)

__________


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

It's a modified dual Marshall Blues Breaker, so not very hard to build. I suspect there are cheaper versions out there from builders. That said, the BB is a good sounding pedal though I've never tried 2 stacked.


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

keto said:


> It's a modified dual Marshall Blues Breaker, so not very hard to build. I suspect there are cheaper versions out there from builders. That said, the BB is a good sounding pedal though I've never tried 2 stacked.


Based on your own side by side comparison of each individual electronic parts?? If you can show me this in writing and in picture, I'd be very interested in it.


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

Roybruno92 said:


> I defintely agree with you, question is, are they that worth it? XD


I had one for about a year and it does what its ADVERTISED as VERY well. A lot - I mean a whole lot of ppl buy this pedal thinkin' it's all all-inclusive, end-of-it-all pedal.

Which unfortunately for them, they are in for some dissapointment.

The Clean boost, the OD boost and the Distortion boost (yeah there's a dip switch in it!) on the higher gain side (red side) is very, very good. Super transparent, dynamic pedal. Reminds me a lot of the Mad Professor Little Green Wonder that I also had.

Thing is, you cannot think of using this pedal at low volume, if just don't give you what it's made for. Play it with a already cranked amp and you'll be getting even more of your amp and this is several spades over.

I know that on this board most if not all of the higher end boutique equipment is regarded down upon, but hey, to each their own right!

Cheers
Ben


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## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

CSBen said:


> Based on your own side by side comparison of each individual electronic parts?? If you can show me this in writing and in picture, I'd be very interested in it.


 It's all in here if you want to have a look. You need to login or signup to view it though.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

CSBen said:


> Based on your own side by side comparison of each individual electronic parts?? If you can show me this in writing and in picture, I'd be very interested in it.


There are full layouts, schematics, and comparisons of each to the other, on freestompboxes.org


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## Cdn_Cracker (Oct 7, 2006)

I ordered one a couple of years ago and like nkjanssen, had an email appear magically one day. For me, it was definitely worth the wait. I am still exploring it and wish I had more time to devote to it, but so far it has managed to throw my Ethos, Tim and Fulldrive 2 back into my pedal case. 

FWIW... order one and just wait it out... but also have fun exploring other pedals and don't get hung up believing the KOT to be your holy grail. When you number comes up and it meets your expectations, then it will be worth the wait. If not, you can probably sell it in a heartbeat... maybe with a slight profit.


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## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

There is one on Kijiji in Halifax right now for $300. It was just posted a couple of hours ago. I have no affiliation with the seller.
Analogman King of Tone - Halifax Musical Instruments For Sale - Kijiji Halifax Canada.


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## Roybruno92 (Jul 20, 2011)

Jeff B. said:


> There is one on Kijiji in Halifax right now for $300. It was just posted a couple of hours ago. I have no affiliation with the seller.
> Analogman King of Tone - Halifax Musical Instruments For Sale - Kijiji Halifax Canada.


Thanks jeff


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

keto said:


> There are full layouts, schematics, and comparisons of each to the other, on freestompboxes.org


If you don't mind copy pastin' it that'd be great. Not that I don't care to go look for it, but its just another forum with another registration that I can do without for a one time visit!

That being said - how come we aren't out making the big(er) $$ in selling this stomp for say $250 and makin' a killin' profit on it?!


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

Jeff B. said:


> There is one on Kijiji in Halifax right now for $300. It was just posted a couple of hours ago. I have no affiliation with the seller.
> Analogman King of Tone - Halifax Musical Instruments For Sale - Kijiji Halifax Canada.


$300 is a killer price. I sold mind just a few weeks ago for $365 on TGP and it took about 20-30mins to find a buyer and was paid in full. Heck I'd buy it from you at that price !!

Ben


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

I'm not down on this pedal, or anything "boutique" out there.
I really wouldn't mind trying one. 8)
I just don't get the extensive wait on this pedal alone, in the full line of Analogman pedals.
If you have the patience to wait, more power to ya.


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## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

I've had KoT on the brain lately. I really want to try one or at least build one for myself to try. If I was closer to it I would have grabbed it it ASAP.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

You can find a schematic and layout here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/KingOfKlones/docs/KingOfKlones.pdf
Schematics and layouts for other desirable boutique pedals (and some not so boutique) can be found here: madbeanpedals.Projects
You can find a Bluesbreaker schem/layout here: tonepad -- fx projects

The basic differences between the 2 are that:
a) the tone-shaping in the first stage is a little different, 
b) the simple fixed 1-pole lowpass filter to trim the top end from the output is made variable,
c) you can switch between 2 diodes to ground for a raspier harder clip, and 4 diodes in the feedback loop (with series resistor) for a softer clip.

If it costs $300+ to get one via e-bay, it's well worth learning how to make your own boards, or buying some from the madbean site.


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## Roybruno92 (Jul 20, 2011)

damn, that's a really good source to look into (madbean's site). Many a thank you.

B



mhammer said:


> You can find a schematic and layout here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/KingOfKlones/docs/KingOfKlones.pdf
> Schematics and layouts for other desirable boutique pedals (and some not so boutique) can be found here: madbeanpedals.Projects
> You can find a Bluesbreaker schem/layout here: tonepad -- fx projects
> 
> ...


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

mhammer said:


> You can find a schematic and layout here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/KingOfKlones/docs/KingOfKlones.pdf
> Schematics and layouts for other desirable boutique pedals (and some not so boutique) can be found here: madbeanpedals.Projects
> You can find a Bluesbreaker schem/layout here: tonepad -- fx projects
> 
> ...


What do you figure would be the cost of all of the components (same brand/model/quality as the one in the KoT, including what one will assume would be quality jacks), including the 3 differences you mentionned above, the casing itself, powder coating costs (again, to make it a fair comparison), new soldering iron, probe/electronic tester, small spools of wires, shipping for all of these components (possibly not all of course). 

Would this be $100-150

Or closer to $200-250

I have no idea myself, but would be interesting in knowing it exactly, as I'm sure others would as well.

This doesn't factor in the build time. Whoever tells you that this time is free, well, I feel sorry for them !

Cheers
Ben


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

You start with a board from madbean. A powder-coated box can be gotten for around ten bucks from this place: Small Bear Electronics though there are other places that may have colours you like better and maybe even a slightly better price. Small Bear is the brainchild of Steve Daniels, who started out as a DIY Stompbox Forum member and started arranging bulk purchase deals for forum members, eventually turning it into a small business employing a few people and serving the commercial and hobby stompbox market. He has just about everything you'd want or need, materials-wise and is as straight a shooter as you can find. Some items can probably be gotten for cheaper prices than he has (for instance, at Tayda, or Mouser), but you'd end up ordering from multiple sources and possibly paying more in shipping. Steve supports the community, and we support him.

With half decent versions of the various tools, instruments, supplies you describe, you could easily pull the whole thing in for well under $150. If I had the time and was building one for myself, it wouldn't set me back more than $25 for everything: box, pots, knobs, board, components. But then, I have all the tools and equipment, the wire, the copper boards and etching material, bulk components, cheap jacks, etc., and I can make my own boards. Starting from scratch costs more, but once you get into it, you keep an eye out for bargains, and accumulate stuff when you see a decent price.

Does that give you any sort of inspiration?


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Since you're so close (I'm over by Ikea in Ottawa), I could put a package together of the various passive components for peanuts, and maybe. You'd need to send away for the rest. Alternatively, I have a Bluesbreaker board I made, that is already populated. Works fine but it never grabbed me. You'd need to change a few components, but you're welcome to it.
Throw in a $40 soldering station from Active over on Merivale, $15 for a cheap meter from Princess Auto, and you're pretty much in busness.
Cheap enough?


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

$150 is about half price of a used unit, making it a good deal no doubt. 

Are all those components the same? Meaning are there higher quality, resitors, caps, mil spec switches, jacks, etc Vs generic, $.20 components? I think it's important to compare apples to apples - which you may have, I can't say for sure though : ) Would be interesting to know the spectrum of the price point. If I was to ever get into that, there is no way I'd want to go by the lower end scale of the components, for simple reasons such as built quality (I would hope, from my part) and reliability (lets no kid' ourselves here, you get what you pay for). 

How much time do you figure this build would take, even for someone who's done a two or three? 2 hrs or more like 6 hrs??

Point of this is - I wouldn't want to mickey-mouse it. I remember reading a few weeks ago a post of a member describing the construction of his home made pedal board. Flipped over plastic bins w/ cut out. Yeah sure it works, but c'mon man, you can't compare it AT ALL to products from say, Pedal Train!!

Cheers
Ben


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## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

CSBen said:


> $150 is about half price of a used unit, making it a good deal no doubt.
> Are all those components the same? Meaning are there higher quality, resitors, caps, mil spec switches, jacks, etc Vs generic, $.20 components? I think it's important to compare apples to apples - which you may have, I can't say for sure though : ) Would be interesting to know the spectrum of the price point. If I was to ever get into that, there is no way I'd want to go by the lower end scale of the components, for simple reasons such as built quality (I would hope, from my part) and reliability (lets no kid' ourselves here, you get what you pay for).
> How much time do you figure this build would take, even for someone who's done a two or three? 2 hrs or more like 6 hrs??
> Point of this is - I wouldn't want to mickey-mouse it. I remember reading a few weeks ago a post of a member describing the construction of his home made pedal board. Flipped over plastic bins w/ cut out. Yeah sure it works, but c'mon man, you can't compare it AT ALL to products from say, Pedal Train!!
> ...


 There really isn't that much of a lower scale when it comes to the components other than the mechanical parts and you don't always get what you pay for in the electronics world. 
The Gibson Bumblebee capacitors are a classic example of this. (For those who don't know they wrapped a cheap new capacitor in a shell of an old looking one and charge $133 for a pair of them.)
Don't get too caught up in audiophile parts hype because it will drive you mad, cost you a lot of money and probably not give the desired result not to mention that the physical size of a lot of them are not pedal and PCB layout friendly. They can be quite large.
Grab some carbon or metal film resistors and some poly film caps and call it a day. Ceramic caps are OK too, I usually just use those in the smaller values though.

I'll quote #1 and #2 of Keen's Laws.



R.G. Keen said:


> *1. Use what you can get, subject to some rough and ready rules. See Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, Transistors and Opamps below. If you have a circuit that needs a specific NPN transistor, and all you can find is a 2N3904, try it. Chances are that if it's not a high power application, it will work mostly. If you need a 3.3K resistor and don't have any of those, notice that 3.3K is about 1/3 of 10K and make one up by paralleling three 10K's that you do have, or a 2.2K and a 1.1K in series. There are places where this kind of approach will not work, but it does work surprisingly often.
> 
> 2. Get it running now, and put the perfect parts in later. In most cases, there will only be one magic, special part you can't find, and then it's really a matter of not being able to find the part *right now*. Build assuming that you will replace the replacement part with the exact thing when you can. If you still need to.
> It's important to remember that the parts chosen in all the pedals of legend and lore that we hold so high were chosen and used because they were cheap and available at the time, not for sound quality*.


 Avoid the really cheap 1/4" jacks at all costs. They're terrible. Stick with anything made by Switchcraft, Rohm, Neutrik or Cliff. If you're buying it all from Small Bear there is no worries as Steve only carries the good stuff and screens out all the junk. I've been buying there for years and I recommend them. If you want the exact same diodes as the KOT though you will have to get them at Effects Connection as Small Bear doesn't stock them. The same caveat goes for toggle switches, avoid the really cheap ones. Good ones are about $1.50 and up and are worth the money. The enclosures are all pretty much the same. The only real difference is in the fit and finish. Some require more prep work than others before you paint them. If you're getting one already painted or powercoated it won't be an issue. Using a fabricated PCB will make your first time easier rather that using a home etched one for your first one. There are 2 on Madbean's site for the KOT. The King of [K]lones is a single channel version and the Aristocrat is the Double Channel version. 
If you've never picked up a soldering iron, made your own PCB or drilled an enclosure before it will probably take you a couple of days start to finish. 
Mark's offer is a very good one and it will save you a lot of trouble and headaches as well as money.


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

Interesting discussion - I like it.

So all said and done, you're about $150 in parts and a few days of build time would cost me a hell of a lot more than buying one used and brand new; upside is the knowledge gain in the field of course.

I personally do not plan on picking it up and this isn't meant to sound snoby at all, but if I want another KoT - as I did have one for a while, I'll just buy a used KoT.

You mention fit & finish - something that is, for me anyways, important.


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## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

It won't cost anywhere near $150 in parts to build one. Only if you need to buy the tools first. This first one might cost that much but everyone after this one would cost around $20-40 including shipping.

The fit and finish on the raw enclosures varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and is trivial in nature. The box is on the floor 5ft+ away from your eyes and getting stomped on every day. Powdercoating and painting can hide any cosmetic defects anyway. I think I've used every main manufacturers enclosures at some point except that actual Hammond boxes that the others are based on. The Hammonds are known to be very high quality although a bit expensive. The New Sensor (Electro Harmonix) ones aren't bad but I've had some that needed extensive rework and filling due to poor die-casting leaving deep porosity pits in it. The ones from Small Bear are pretty good. His 1590B enclosures are cast with the same mould as the ZVex pedals, but I've found that the finish on the sides is very rough due to the course grit belt sanding that they get at the factory. If you're not using a thick paint or don't sand/primer the boxes first that the deep scratches show right through. That's not Small Bear's fault, Steve doesn't make them, he just buys them. For die-cast enclosures the 4Site ones are what I prefer for the die-cast boxes. The surface is sanded smoother, the casting is thicker, they come with stainless steel screws and they're cheaper for me than all the other ones. They typically require very little if any prep work before painting. I have a few 4Site 1590BB's left that I bought from a fellow pedal guy that were sandblasted quite smooth. No matter where they come from though you will find occassional casting marks and ding marks on the enclosures regardless of who made them. That's just part of how they get made.
The hands down best enclosures I've ever seen or used come from Road Rage Pro Gear in Ontario. They're not the same as the other enclosures at all, but they've all been flawless.
My background is in machining and manufacturing and my jaw dropped when I opened the box of enclosures from Road Rage. 
He doesn't sell them direct to the public anymore though and they cost quite a bit more that the usual die-cast ones when he did. I have a 1590B one from them that I'm saving for an Expandora clone eventually.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Jeff's summary is spot on.

And as I keep reminding people (albeit rather dismissively) _*it's frickin' distortion pedal! get over it!

*_More compassionately, I'll say that component "quality" is a bit like the difference between having $3M public liability on your car insurance, and $10M. Maybe it makes you feel better protected, but 99.99% of instances where you need to make use of that public liability will never even approach the $3M mark, and if you behave yourself, you can crank that up to 99.99999%. When everything else is factored into the mix, apart from things like parts actually physically breaking on you (i.e., jacks), component quality tends not to matter too much. If the hiss added by the pedal is well above the noise floor contributed from the rest of your signal chain, then it may be worth using metal film resistors, but you'd probably need to have a well-shielded guitar, damn good cables, a very quiet amp, and very quiet pedals to hear a difference a lot of the time. 

If there is some aspect of high frequency response that seems blurry, for want of a better term, it _may_ be worth considering different caps. But when you think about just how many classic and highly desirable pedals used the absolute sh**iest and cheapest caps money could buy, you tend to find yourself less concerned abut what to buy and more concerned about what will simply fit in the space provided on the board and comes closest to the nominal value when measured.

Just about any commercial pedal out there will have slight-to-substantial copy-to-copy differences stemming from the sum total of component tolerances in the circuit. In a published interview, Mike Matthews said that you could take any four Big Muff pedals off the line during the 70's or 80's, all from the same "issue", and no two would sound alike - part tolerances strike again. Aiming for "higher quality" in the parts may be nowhere near as important in nailing a particular sound as simply measuring the parts you have and selecting the ones that come closest to the value they are "supposed to be". Manufacturers are a little more anxious about component tolerances because their business depends on every copy of the pedal they produce sounding as identical to any other as is possible to be. So while the ad copy may make a big deal out of mil spec resistors, that's really more for them than for you. A 10k gain-setting resistor that is 5% tolerance could be as low as 9k5 and as high as 10k5. If it is used in conjunction with 22k resistor to set the gain of an op-amp stage, the difference in gain produced is negligible. If used in conjunction with a 1M resistor it could make the difference between a gain of 96x and 106x. Given that the 1M resistor itself is +/-5% then the joint impact of tolerances could result in gains anywhere from 91.5 to 111x, which could easily produce an audible difference. Now map that impact of tolerances all over the entire circuit, and it is easy top see why manufacturers will turn to things like 1% metal film, not because they are "higher quality" but because they can be certain the pedals they ship out to Guitar Center stores, Musician's Friend, and L&M will be identical enough that no consumer will be surprised enough and send in a negative review to H-C.

Besides, rigs and tastes can be so different from each other, that the informed user may end up wanting to change a part value anyway, just to nail *their* tone. That's why I don't really worry too much about components. I figure just build the damn thing, live with it for a bit, and season to taste. I leave the fretting over components to folks who can't do that.

Diodes....

In one sense, diodes matter and in another sense, they don't. The thing with diodes is that their most important and distinguishing feature...for us...is that they conduct at different voltages (termed "forward voltage"). That's what allows clipping. The difference between their conducting and non-conducting state is not "crisp". There IS a sort of transitional zone between conducting and not conducting, but that tends to be only of importance to folks working with high frequency clocks who need to be sure that when this 200khz logic signal is high that one over there is clearly low, with no period, even on the order of nanoseconds, where the two logic signals are both somewhere in the middle. When you're dealing with guitar speakers that roll off content pretty quickly above 6khz, what happens in the nanosecond world has precious little *real *impact on audible tone. That's why I say the most distinguishing feature for guitar players is the voltage at which they conduct.

Why? Simply because the nature of a guitar signal is that it fluctuates a LOT. The point at which a diode will conduct and produce clipping will determine how easily a plucked string can result in clipping, how much of the plucked note's "lifespan" that clipping will occur for and how consistently or stably it will do so. When people use LEDs or more diodes (as in the 2+2 configuration that the KoT and Timmy use) for clipping, that ratchets the point where clipping can be produced upwards, and confines it to the first little bit after you pick. Because it is the nature of plucked strings to generate their most harmonic content during those first 200-300msec, and then quickly simmer down to the fundamental and maybe a few lower order harmonics, LED-based clipping tends to result in an exaggeration of pick attack that some folks really like. The clipping adds harmonics to whatever the signal consists of at that point, and if it consists of more harmonic content at the outset, then you go from lots of harmonic content at pick attack, to much less as the signal both drops below the clipping threshold AND loses the harmonic content of the string itself. People talk about this as "touch sensitive" or "more dynamic". It is simply the result of leveraging the point at which clipping happens plus the natural properties of vibrating strings. Kind/brand/part-number of diode tends to matter much less than many folks would like to think. Besides, diodes, just like resistors and caps, have component tolerances. Buy a 50-pack of 1N914 diodes from Radio Shack / The Source, and chances are pretty good they will vary between forward voltages of 510mv to 620mv. 

I liken diode myths to astrology. There ARE annual changes in the internal chemistry of female reproductive anatomy that can have possible effects on the developing nervous system of the foetus. And in the non-industrial world there are annual changes in the availability of some kinds of nutrients, whose presence or absence can impact on the developing nervous system. Before we knew any of this biological stuff as a source of influence, people DID note some detectable differences in folks born in this part of the calendar year or that. And in searching for an explanation, they noted consistencies in the positioning of stars, and did the usual if-this-AND-that-happen-together thing. Might there be small but detectable differences between kids born in the summer vs the spring or winter, given how far south or north they are? Sure. But it ain't the position of the stars that causes it. So, there are real differences in the audible results of using germanium diodes, vs LEDs, vs silicon diodes vs FETs, vs Schottky diodes, yadda yadda. But the differences stem almost exclusively from the fact that the different diode types clip at different amplitudes. You can usually always tinker with the gain structure of a pedal and get the exact same tone with different kinds of diodes. That said, because so many people use pedals to drive their amp hard, the tone they seek is a joint combination of pedal and amp, and if dickering with the pedal to nail a certain pedal tone results in the pedal not being able to push the amp quite as hard, then you are missing an important ingredient.

How long will it take? The Bluesbreaker board I'm offering is a working board. I can remove the parts that have a different value from the KoT and save you some time and aggravation. From that point, you might spend a couple hours one night getting your chassis drilled the way you want (measure twice, drill once!) and painted or legended (I use rub on lettering and spray clearcoat, which can take a couple hours to get it the way I want). Then, assuming the board is functional, you might spend a few hours the next evening getting the offboard wiring done the way you want. It is VERY helpful to have a drillpress and a stepdrill bit.

All for now. I gotta start work before somebody notices.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Dug up the Bluesbreaker board again, and much to my surprise discovered why I didn't like it. I had mistakenly installed a 47k resistor where there was supposed to be a 4k7 value. This resulted in far more gain for the top end being applied than for the remainder of the signal. No wonder I thought the thing was unpleasantly shrill.

Happily, the board easily accommodates pretty much all the component-value changes that allow a Bluesbreaker to transform into a King of Tone. So now I'm tempted to "mod it up" and give the thing a listen, and a _fair_ trial.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

So I finished making the changes and wiring it up. The only difference between mine and the actual 4-knob unit, if I am to treat the madbean schematic as accurate, is that I left it at the mild coloration "Normal Overdrive" mode (diodes in the feedback loop), rather than the hard clipping "Distortion" mode (diodes to ground). Personally, I wouldn't pay more than $100 for it, but I can see why folks like it. I gather that the 4 knob version doesn't really HAVE "two channels", but rather has two discrete volume settings.

This thing kinda likes P90s doesn't it? :smilie_flagge17: Doesn't "bark" as stridently as a Tube Screamer, but that's a good thing. I like it with the Tone up full, the Gain around the mid-point, and the Presence down full. Not THAT loud a pedal, but that's okay. Still gives an amp a nice push for solos.


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

That's cool mhammer.

Do you have a KoT to a/b them together through a switch box, for comparison? I'd be great to hear a recording video of it as well. 

I have a Klon clone on the way from an american builder (JHS Pedals) for I'd say (right now) about a quarter of the price of an original one. Never owned a Klon, nor would I ever pay $1100+ for one either, but gotta try one to know.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Never actually seen a "real" KoT in the flesh. I'm just comparing what I have to what I hear on soundclips. Compares favourably. If you want to try it out, you're welcome to.

I'm not sure anyone would sell you a Klon for a "quarter of the original price" since that would have put it under $80. Had someone bought direct from the maker (Bill Finnegan) they would have paid a bit over $300. The $1100 you may have seen or heard about is someone scalping on e-bay.


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

Guys scalp on any pedal with a waiting list.
Tim & Timmy go for more than offered from PaulC.

Of course the Klon is discontinued, so that's the driving factor in the pricing.
It's the marketplace demands. Someone will pay for it.

When I got on the list for a Tim, a *retailer* in Calgary was selling them new for $299.


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## hollowbody (Jan 15, 2008)

sulphur said:


> Guys scalp on any pedal with a waiting list.
> Tim & Timmy go for more than offered from PaulC.
> 
> Of course the Klon is discontinued, so that's the driving factor in the pricing.
> ...


Yeah, you pay more if you don't want to wait. It's worth it to some, not to others.

Bill is going to release the new Klons (hopefully) soon. So I'm gonna get myself on that list ASAP!


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

mhammer said:


> Never actually seen a "real" KoT in the flesh. I'm just comparing what I have to what I hear on soundclips. Compares favourably. If you want to try it out, you're welcome to.
> 
> I'm not sure anyone would sell you a Klon for a "quarter of the original price" since that would have put it under $80. Had someone bought direct from the maker (Bill Finnegan) they would have paid a bit over $300. The $1100 you may have seen or heard about is someone scalping on e-bay.


Sold my KoT recently to fund another purchase, but will be getting another one again for sure and will take you up on the offer to a/b them. I'll record a few pass of it w/ Sonar to get the best possible audio quality for it.

I very rarely trust any of the youtube video. My KoT sounded way, way better in person, that is without the aweful compression and poor audio quality of 98% of the videos posted up. There are a few higher quality video & audio (CD quality) out there though. Too bad so many of them aren't up to that standard though. 

As for the clone, perhaps I didn't write properly what I meant about the "quarter of the price" - the JHS Klone clone are $260US, making them about 1/4 of the price of today, not the original price of course!! ; )

Scalping on ebay, scalping on TGP...tomato/temato. That is the going price for them pretty much everywhere online. And before you have to say it, no, I wouldn't be paying that for one..gotta love the low post count and the image it portrays eh!

Edit re Price: Yeah, when I said "the price of an original one", I meant the price of an original Klon, not the original price.


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## CSBen (Mar 1, 2011)

hollowbody said:


> Yeah, you pay more if you don't want to wait. It's worth it to some, not to others.
> 
> Bill is going to release the new Klons (hopefully) soon. So I'm gonna get myself on that list ASAP!


I've been keeping an eye out on his page and the TGP thread about it, but have not seen a price point for them discussed yet. You?


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## Dave2113 (Sep 18, 2011)

*KoT going up for sale today on kijiji*

Hey guys, in case anyone is interested, I will be posting my KoT for sale on kijiji later today for $320. Gigged only twice, mint condition other than velcro at the bottom.


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## Todd68 (Mar 7, 2008)

I've had two roll through my hands. The second was designed to be a little hotter than the first. Both were good, but I kept going back to my OCD V2. The KoT didn't have the girth of the OCD. I needed to see if the hype was in fact true. Nice pedal, and I'm sure for some it'll scratch the itch. If I correctly recall, it had a bit of a nasally quality that didn't really do it for me. I liked things about it, but given the price, I figured they were better off sold to fund something else (got both used through trades on this forum). I like Analog Man stuff, but the KoT wasn't for me. On a positive, you can buy and try without much risk. People buy them up pretty quick so you won't be stuck with it if it's not for you.


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## Soultone (Jan 3, 2011)

Just got the e-mail today, I am at the top of the list. I have been on the list since July 2010.


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## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

One got posted on Kijiji - Halifax today. $300. No affiliation with the seller.

http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...ng-of-Tone-Overdrive-Pedal-W0QQAdIdZ325143927


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I made myself one, using the Madbean layout, although I omitted the diodes-to-ground option since that didn't appeal to me. As such, it is more or less something in the Tube Screamer / Bluesbreaker area, but a reasonably nice sounding booster. Happy to let it go at a modest ransom (hint hint).


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## zdogma (Mar 21, 2006)

mhammer said:


> Never actually seen a "real" KoT in the flesh. I'm just comparing what I have to what I hear on soundclips. Compares favourably. If you want to try it out, you're welcome to.
> 
> I'm not sure anyone would sell you a Klon for a "quarter of the original price" since that would have put it under $80. Had someone bought direct from the maker (Bill Finnegan) they would have paid a bit over $300. The $1100 you may have seen or heard about is someone scalping on e-bay.


Hi Mark. I have a KoT V.4 if you ever want to try it out. Just let me know.


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