# What are good non pricey acoustics?



## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

I may very well be looking to acquire an acoustic guitar in the upcoming two weeks or so, and want to keep the value low while still having a solid player that looks great. 

I am looking at kijiji and see the likes of beaver creek, Madera and whatnot, that doesn't inspire lots if confidence. 

Then there's other brands I may be willing to try, or known good ones. 

I am looking at under a hundred. I'd pop higher if it has a plug-in capability and hardcase, as long as I am certain I won't regret the purchase. 

What should I keep away from? What should I look for? 

Please educate me, I don't know much about acoustics. 

Thanks.


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## mrmatt1972 (Apr 3, 2008)

Non- pricy in acoustic s means different things to different people. The best bang for buck in Canada are the Seagull/Simon & Patrick guitars. Halcyon is a Canadian company making budget priced hand made guitars that are getting rave reviews. Pono, Avian and Eastman are all made offshore but also get excellent reviews.

Under 100 is usually pretty crappy - I had a Beaver Creak for camping that was in this range. It was playable.


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## jimmy c g (Jan 1, 2008)

for under 100 you will get ....what you pay for...a cheap p o s- not fun- my opinion only....


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## jayjacque (Sep 2, 2012)

I've probably bought about 15 used acoustics. Nowadays, I think the buyer has the advantage. As soon as you see it advertised, you can google it and see the reviews on it unless it's a complete no name, which you wouldn't want anyway). Definitely go for a solid top. There's too many of these around now to settle for a laminate top. Sides and back is not really crucial what their wood is. I used to think a cutaway was better for easier access to upper frets, but let's face it. nobody's shredding on an acoustic. I play lead fills on my acoustics and rarely have to get above the 12th fret, so in the last few years I've opted for more guitar rather than thinking I need a cutaway. Having it be electric can also be a bit deceptive; Some of the cheaper models electronics are just so-so at best. Again, when you see something advertised, just google away and if there's any doubts, just pass or make a low offer. Because I've bought so many (at least that many electrics as well) I've found some things pretty common to people selling lower to middle end acoustics; There can be missing or wore out string strings, very high action, a few nicks, dead battery if it's electric/acoustic, etc. That gives you the buyer an advantage, because most of those things are easily remedied, but they don't know that, so feel free to offer lower than their asking price. And don't feel bad, because you might have to pay for a set-up or spend some time on it yourself. Cracks are a different story. I advise passing on guitars with neck or body cracks from being dried out or dropped. Again, there's just too many used guitars out there to settle for something with a lot of damage. Stay away from no-names and look it over carefully for cracks or bad intonation (0 and 12 fret out of tune with each other). Although, the intonation is fixable, it will likely cost you something.

I almost always do 2 things when buying a used acoustic: change the strings and with an allen wrench inside the soundhole adjust the truss rod. In almost every case, within about 15 or 20 minutes, it's a whole new guitar.

Here's some brands that are good and common and can be inexpensive if you keep your eyes open: Any of the Godin family (Seagull, Simon & Patrick, La Patrie) and the Yamaha FG series are your best bets. Also Epiphone, Washburn, Ibanez, Takamine, Alvarez, Tanglewood, Cort, and probably a dozen others - but definitely google whichever model it is because some of those to me are iffy. I'd much rather get a Yamaha FG700 (or even a slight notch better 800 series), which is inexpensive and a sure thing. In fact, if I were you I'd even consider buying new the Yamaha FG800 - only $269 plus tax. Hope this helps


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## vadsy (Dec 2, 2010)

If you stretch your budget by a little you can get this, although I have a feeling something isn't right. 
Acoustic guitar on Kijiji Acoustic guitar | guitars | St. Albert | Kijiji


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the suggestions so far.


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## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

Yamaha is always a good bet


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## Steadfastly (Nov 14, 2008)

I bought my first guitar, an S & P Cedar 6 for $125.00 used. It was in great condition and I would recommend it to anyone. However, that was a very rare deal. I would look at least $250.00 for a good used Seagull, S & P, Lavarie or Yamaha. I wouldn't waste my money on any $100.00 guitar unless it was a real deal and a decent guitar.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

What's the difference between classical and acoustic? There's a lot of classical guitar on kijiji around here.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Jamdog said:


> What's the difference between classical and acoustic? There's a lot of classical guitar on kijiji around here.


Classical: Wider, flatter neck, nylon strings, classical style tuners (dunno if they have a unique name)


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## Robert1950 (Jan 21, 2006)

To repeat, Seagull, Simon and Patrick, Art and Lutherie - all Canadian made, in Quebec.

Do a Kijiji check - there are lots of used models of these guitars available.


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## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

Under 100 is a crap shoot big time but you might find a Yahaha for that money if you get lucky and they can be ok for cheap. I played one that belonged to my neighbor and a pawn shop had offered him 75 it wasn't a real bad guitar.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

Robert1950 said:


> To repeat, Seagull, Simon and Patrick, Art and Lutherie - all Canadian made, in Quebec.
> 
> Do a Kijiji check - there are lots of used models of these guitars available.


I've seen a few Art Et Luthier in kijiji Montréal, within my range. They sell fast... 
Theres currently a fender, how do they do for acoustic? 

Theres a lot of Madera, I guess I should stay away from them. 


I didn't know Seagull was made here. Thanks for the information!


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

I would expand up to the $150-$200 range and look at the quebec brands.

I bought my sister a fender CD-60, it was a decent guitar. $200 new with case I believe. If you just want something useable for the house, worth a look.


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## johnnyshaka (Nov 2, 2014)

Norman is another brand under the Godin umbrella: Kijiji Canada


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## Wardo (Feb 5, 2010)

Where are you.

I'll sell you a good Norman for 300 with a hard shell case.


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## mr trick (Sep 21, 2013)

do yourself a favour and buy used, let someone else take the depreciation, you'll get more bang for your buck and it will be worth what you paid for it used, minus the setup, get a solid spruce top, if you see binding around the sound hole, it ain't solid, or
SKB Taylor GS Mini Acoustic Case- NEW/NEUF -Étui pour guitare | guitares | Ville de Montréal | Kijiji
this looks cool


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I'd look for an older used yamaha


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

mr trick said:


> if you see binding around the sound hole, it ain't solid


How do I detect if there's binding. They most of the time have inlays around the sound hole.


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## sambonee (Dec 20, 2007)

knight_yyz said:


> I'd look for an older used yamaha


I second the vote !!! Best value for the $$$. The older ones. Or any older Japanese acoustic. They're great. I got a solid top Taiwan Yamaha D-35 copy for $-80. It's killer.


Here CBS Masterworks Acoustic on Kijiji CBS Masterworks Acoustic | guitars | Hamilton | Kijiji

Good example.


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## mr trick (Sep 21, 2013)

Jamdog said:


> How do I detect if there's binding. They most of the time have inlays around the sound hole.


binding is just a layer, thin strip, of material, mostly plastic, that hides the edges of the wood. similar to the binding around the outside edges. zoom in on my avatar


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

mr trick said:


> binding is just a layer, thin strip, of material, mostly plastic, that hides the edges of the wood. similar to the binding around the outside edges. zoom in on my avatar


I get it. 

If we don't see wood, it's not wood.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

How are B.C.Rich current acoustics? 


b.c rich | guitares | Laval / Rive-Nord | Kijiji


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## WannabeGood (Oct 24, 2007)

If it comes with that hardshell case I'd jump on it. Not familiar with BC Rich guitars at all but it is a respected name...................I think. Epiphone can be decent as well. Bought a used DR-100 a few years back for the cottage at $90.00. Plays well.

Regards,


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks! 


There's also that one


GUITARD DE MARQUE FENDER 3 MOIS USURE | guitares | Laval / Rive-Nord | Kijiji

But it's a long drive and pricier to begin with, so I may go with the BC rich.

Is the piezo pickup an interesting option?


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

WannabeGood said:


> Not familiar with BC Rich guitars at all but it is a respected name...................I think.


Just did lots of reading on B.C.Rich 

Bernardo Chavez Rico started to make acoustics in 69 but became popular with heavy metal odd-shape guitars. 
They made acoustics up to about mid-80s, and started back as of late. 

Without the serial, it's hard to date. It can very well be an 80s Japanese import. 

I sent a kijiji mail requesting to go see it tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

Still unanswered...


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## capnjim (Aug 19, 2011)

Takamine MIJ are probably the highest quality for the money. For 300-400$ you can get a very well made guitar. Some of the modles from the 70's and 80's are pretty much exact copies of Martins. They would buy Martins, and take them apart, and copy them. There never was a lawsuit, but Martin "requested" they stop.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

capnjim said:


> Takamine MIJ are probably the highest quality for the money. For 300-400$ you can get a very well made guitar. Some of the modles from the 70's and 80's are pretty much exact copies of Martins. They would buy Martins, and take them apart, and copy them. There never was a lawsuit, but Martin "requested" they stop.


Thanks! 
I've seen a lot of Takamine on kijiji, some rather cheap. 

The seller for the BC rich is one of those "I post ads but don't reply to buyers" type of Kijidiot, so I'm still looking.


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## capnjim (Aug 19, 2011)

Just stay away from the Takamine G series. Your better off spending a bit more and getting one made in Japan


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## leftysg (Mar 29, 2008)

I have a rare cutaway Japanese Tak electric 12 string from the 80s. When I've traced its model number there is hardly any info about it. It has the best action and neck of any guitar I've owned. It's resale value however doesn't match the quality of the instrument.


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## Guest (Sep 5, 2016)

capnjim said:


> Just stay away from the Takamine G series. Your better off spending a bit more and getting one made in Japan


Makes me wonder why this one's only $75.
The hardcase alone is probably worth that.

Takamine G series Acoustic Guitar & the Case $75

Excellent Condition with Case.
Comes from pet and smoke-free family.


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## Guest (Sep 5, 2016)

duplicate


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

I'm a Martin guy through and through and I own 3 of the high end ones. When it comes to budget though the Taylor are hard to beat and on 1k and below guitars, Taylor are my favorite. I bought my grand daughter a Taylor GS mini (around $700) and I really enjoy playing it as well.
The Taylor 110 was a good value. I haven't played one for years but I remember the first time I picked one up I was impressed.
My daughter bought my grandson a $350 pos fender acoustic and I wouldn't waste my time with that crap. I didn't say anything to them about what I thought but they aren't really fun to play. Sound like crap, don't stay in tune well and the feel is just off.
Many years ago I bought my daughter a $300 cort (going back 15-20 years) that was actually a pretty good value and sounded not bad. I think you could probably get something decent for about 4-500 on the used market or 8-900 new. But you have to get out there and try as many as you can.
Some will tell you they've gotten great guitars used for $100 but some wouldn't know a good guitar if it fell on them. Others may have just got lucky and then some just don't worry about the details.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

I ended up getting this Aspen from another member










We tought it was MIJ but from trying to find more details online, I think it's Korean made. It plays and sounds good and was around what I was looking to pay, with custum made bone nut and saddle. 

I am not used to acoustic that much, but my fretting hand gets tired trying to get chords to sound right, it's harder than any electric I ever played. I'll try lighter strings. The action was high so I lowered it, but it still is somewhat high. 

Any hints to alleviate fretting hand fatigue?


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

Jamdog said:


> Any hints to alleviate fretting hand fatigue?


Practice, practice practice. There was a time when I played 90% electric, 10% acoustic. So I always struggled with hand fatigue. When tinnitus put an end to my electric days it was 100% acoustic. After many, many hours, weeks and months of playing I can zip around on the acoustic fretboard about as quick as I did on electric. It helps that I have my acoustics set up by a pro and like my action more on the low side.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

guitarman2 said:


> It helps that I have my acoustics set up by a pro and like my action more on the low side.


Would lower action help?


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

Jamdog said:


> Would lower action help?


If you want an electric feel to your acoustic you'd want as low as you can go without buzzing. Where that is will depend on how hard you pick and strum. Light strings will help. For me light strings is not an option as I like to drive the tops so I had to do a lot of finger exercises and playing scales etc. Basically lots of playing time. I don't bend a lot on the acoustic. If I did I'd probably go to lights. Its just the tone compromise is bad for me. I can bend with mediums but it takes a lot of effort and only the B string on higher frets can I bend a whole tone.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

guitarman2 said:


> If you want an electric feel to your acoustic you'd want as low as you can go without buzzing.
> 
> Light strings will help.


Thanks
I'll get new strings somewhen this week and work on the saddle again then. 

It's action is much lower already, but still higher than all my electrics...


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