# Where to get a replacement "AC receptacle"?



## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

So....I knocked over my amp at practice yesterday and...the AC receptacle on the amp got cracked.








Yep..that thing is apparently called an "AC receptacle" according to the Traynor service manual pdf. Anyhow, the amp still works fine and there's no internal damage or anything, but the AC receptacle has a big crack going all around it and I fear that it may one day just break off and fall into the chassis of the amp. I can't send it back to Traynor, since the warranty on this thing is long gone. I'm assuming that it's an easy fix, but does anyone have an idea where I can find a replacement AC receptacle? Thanks, I know that a lot of you are proficient when it comes to electronics and such so I'm sure that someone will be able to help me out :smile:.


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## allthumbs56 (Jul 24, 2006)

Email Traynor first. They will respond quite quickly, tell you how much it will cost, give you the part # and the nearest dealer to order it through.

I just went through this with a noisy power transformer in my YCV50. Total cost with taxes was less than 40 bucks for a replacement.

They're good people.


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

Suppose that I order the part from Traynor, would it be hard to install it myself? Or is it just a simple matter of screwing the old one out and screwing the new one in? Or would it involve a bunch of soldering and other techy shenanigans?


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

Thanks for the quick replies Paul :food-smiley-004:

P.S. Apparently the suggested retail price for the part is only 2 bucks according to the Yorkville parts catalog, thank god they don't overprice things.


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

Yorkville, Long & McQuade, and Traynor are virtually the same entity, are they not? Wander into an L&M and maybe they'll just give you one. I find my nearest one quite reasonable that way

Peace, Mooh.


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## allthumbs56 (Jul 24, 2006)

My transformer was all connectors. I don't think that Traynor solders anything that's not on the pcb. I don't know though for sure. Just be careful of leftover charges when you're inside the chassis. I do believe that the easy/cheesy way to discharge is to turn it on and then off while not in standby (or perhaps even unplug it while On) - I'm sure that someone will pipe up if I'm wrong.

And then don't knock it over anymore :smile:


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

On second thought your amp is trash. I'll take it off your hands if you pay the shipping.

Peace, Mooh.


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

Mooh said:


> On second thought your amp is trash. I'll take it off your hands if you pay the shipping.
> 
> Peace, Mooh.


Of course...the smart-ass reply, it was only a matter of time before we got one in this thread :smile:


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## allthumbs56 (Jul 24, 2006)

noobcake said:


> Of course...the smart-ass reply, it was only a matter of time before we got one in this thread :smile:


Ahhhh give him a break. He is from Canada's Kidney afterall.:food-smiley-004:


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

I know, I know, it's all in good fun, but seriously the "I will gladly take your gear off your hands" jokes in help threads are getting a little stale :zzz:. Anyhow, I emailed Yorkville and the reply was the following: 

Hi there. That recepticle is, I believe, soldered directly to a circuit board so this is not really a consumer repair situation. Please contact L&M Langley regarding service.
Thank you.
Mike

...Well that's not much help...


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## allthumbs56 (Jul 24, 2006)

noobcake said:


> Hi there. That recepticle is, I believe, soldered directly to a circuit board so this is not really a consumer repair situation. Please contact L&M Langley regarding service.
> Thank you.
> Mike
> 
> ...Well that's not much help...


Dang. I guess the good news is that the spill didn't damage the board too. 

Anyway, if it is soldered direct I don't suppose you have any friends that are good with a soldering iron?


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

noobcake said:


> Of course...the smart-ass reply, it was only a matter of time before we got one in this thread :smile:


It was preceded by a sincere suggestion, but okay, sorry if I offended you or anyone else in any way whatsoever. Hope you get the results you wanted.

Peace, Mooh.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Paul said:


> If greco can unsolder the jacks from a board in this thread:
> 
> ...then you can remove the AC connection. It's only 3 connections to unsolder and resolder. I'm not telling you what to do or how to do it, but I'd make the repair myself if it was my amp.


Just to clarify, I have an fairly well-equiped electronics workbench set up and I have been reading about electronics for quite a while .....and have also been building small projects. 

Changing 3 jacks on the M-80 board will be a challenge for me.....but I'm gaining confidence after reading the comments on the thread.

If you do anything with the amp, I would recommend watching the video on soldering (in the thread) and doing some practice soldering.

Personally, I wouldn't do it yourself if it could void the warranty.

Cheers

Dave


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## sysexguy (Mar 5, 2006)

Actually the most important aspect of having a pro do the repair is to assure that none of the PCB traces were damaged by the broken receptacle.

Andy


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

Mooh said:


> It was preceded by a sincere suggestion, but okay, sorry if I offended you or anyone else in any way whatsoever. Hope you get the results you wanted.
> 
> Peace, Mooh.


It was all tongue in cheek anyways, sorry if that came off harsh, no hard feelings right? :smile:


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## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

old computer power supplies are a great source for those ac jacks.


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

Ripper said:


> old computer power supplies are a great source for those ac jacks.


Yeah I noticed that too, they're all a little different though (the placement of the screws aren't the same as the one the Traynor)

I'm still worried about soldering it on though -_-

Oh well the amp works fine right now, maybe I'll just try supergluing it or something. It's just cosmetic damage after all.


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## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

noobcake said:


> Yeah I noticed that too, they're all a little different though (the placement of the screws aren't the same as the one the Traynor)
> 
> I'm still worried about soldering it on though -_-
> 
> Oh well the amp works fine right now, maybe I'll just try supergluing it or something. It's just cosmetic damage after all.


Yeah sometimes you have to pick through some to find the right ones. 
Soldering those is really straight forward. Have you checked to see if yours are soldered on? I've seen some amps that use bayonet connectors on the power jacks. If you have to glue it in, I'd use a good quality epoxy from the backside, not the best solution but it would hold it.


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## noobcake (Mar 8, 2006)

Yeah epoxy would do the trick I guess, right now I'm not too worried about the cosmetics since the amp already has a good deal of wear and tear, I just don't want the amp to crap out in the middle of a gig or something due to the AC receptacle falling into the chassis. I'm not too fond of the idea of soldering, since I don't even own a soldering iron...

P.S. I'm unable to check if it's soldered on or uses bayonet connectors at the moment since the amp is at the drummer's house, but the traynor rep that emailed me seems to believe that it's soldered straight onto the circuit board.


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