# Contact cleaner



## Dr.StephanHeimer (May 1, 2006)

Looking for recommendations on a good brand of contact cleaner to use on guitar pots as well as pots and controls on pedals and rack gear as well as where to buy it.


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## Hamstrung (Sep 21, 2007)

I use "Deoxit". It can be found at L&M.


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## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

Deoxit is the gold standard.


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## dtsaudio (Apr 15, 2009)

Deoxit is the gold standard and priced like it. The problem I have is the residue it leaves. There is silicon in it and it does not evaporate completely. I use it, but in small amounts to finish up a cleaning job. The best I've found that evaporates completely is MG Chemicals. Clean with that and then a little Deoxit.


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

Ordered some at L&M and got it on Amazon.ca for $10 cheaper. Have the stuff and all looks good with the purchase. Cancelled my L&M order.

Update: I should have added that I only wanted something to spray on a few scratchy knobs on my old Yamaha EMX250 powered PA and the reviews online were very positive.


Cleaner Caig D5S-6 Deoxit Spray (5% Solution) 
Sold by importcds__
Condition: New
*CDN$ 22.95*


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

Whats better Ford or Chevy or Dodge?

Can we skip the quasi-technical bullshit this time around? 

They all work. *USE* *SPARINGLY.*


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## nonreverb (Sep 19, 2006)

WD-40 is NOT recommended for electronic components sparingly or not....


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

WD-40 is for tractors and combines-as I've said before. I had a few of those back in the dusty days.


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

Recommended by the guy who built $5000 worth of amps for me. But what does he know? Here we go again... lol.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

Anything that leaves a residue will attract as much dust as WD. Just sayin.
Just be sure to pass on the brake or carb cleaner.


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

jb welder said:


> Anything that leaves a residue will attract as much dust as WD. Just sayin.
> Just be sure to pass on the brake or carb cleaner.


But the dust will be highly conductive, resistant to oxidation, and lubricated to minimize abrasion.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Listen to JB. He da man.


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## cdntac (Oct 11, 2017)

Deoxit.


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

WD-40 stinks too.


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

WCGill said:


> WD-40 stinks too.


Lol. OK you win!

dtsaudio claims deoxit leaves a residue as well. If so, I wouldn't use it or WD40 on a potentiometer or any other moving or visible part. OK for sockets and jacks. Also, one shot in an emergency on *anything* will hurt nothing (except your nose?). It ain't radioactive waste.

I wonder if a guy can still get that Blue Diamond Contact Cleaner. It says it is residue free. That can has been around forever. The Electrical 88 (even older) looks like nothing more than a Canadian rip-off of WD40. Not the best, even if it is as vintage as a tone wheel organ.

The Peavey Funk Out leaves no trace. Great stuff. Used it yesterday. Tiny squirt worked like magic. Do they still make it?


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

JB's indeed the man, even if he's an MM hater.


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## GTmaker (Apr 24, 2006)

my buddy Rick from Neutron Electronics (Guelph)
suggested I use this product mostly because they sell it but he did say its really good stuff.
So this is what I use.
G.
https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T8MD5SZ42G3NGDYFGMYS


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## Guest (Jan 26, 2018)

The manual for my Fulltone wah says to never use anything but Deoxit 5 on the wah pot.


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## Frenchy99 (Oct 15, 2016)

This is how you clean your contacts !


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I use CFC brand because I get it for free from work. Personally I think they are all the same chemicals. I use the one that leaves no residue


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

KapnKrunch said:


> Whats better Ford or Chevy or Dodge?
> 
> Can we skip the quasi-technical bullshit this time around?
> 
> ...


Hey Kapn, pretty sure these are all past their expiry date except maybe the WD40 and it stinks.^)@#


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## dtsaudio (Apr 15, 2009)

This is the stuff I primarily use.
409B - Electrosolve Contact Cleaner - Contact Cleaners | MG Chemicals
I don't like the PPE version as it will degrade plastic parts, and some older plastics will just fall apart using it.


Player99 said:


> The manual for my Fulltone wah says to never use anything but Deoxit 5 on the wah pot.


Don't disagree. With the silicon, it will lubricate the pot and make it last longer.


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## Guest (Jan 26, 2018)

Wow Long & McQuade is charging a lot for Deoxit. Like a lot. Don't buy it at L&M.

Search


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

WCGill said:


> WD-40 stinks too.


You mean smells nice. That's l'eau de garage, man.


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

dtsaudio said:


> This is the stuff I primarily use.
> 409B - Electrosolve Contact Cleaner - Contact Cleaners | MG Chemicals
> I don't like the PPE version as it will degrade plastic parts, and some older plastics will just fall apart using it.
> 
> Don't disagree. With the silicon, it will lubricate the pot and make it last longer.


*LUBRICATES?!! 

SMELLS NICE?!!
*
OK, now I am back to endorsing _L'eau de Garage_. Good for tractors too.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Actually WD-40 is not a lubricant (only in the short term). Like if you put it on your, for example, bike chain it will strip the actual lubricant from it (yes it leaves a bit of a greasey film, but not enough of one to be effective for that purpose; comes off easy). Don't use it on door hinges either (I have no idea re tractors); again, it'll stop squeeks for a day, maybe a few, but it'll come back worse. What you can do is use it to clean, then put some proper lube in there (3in1 or whatever for hinges; proper bike lube on your chain etc. best if you wipe off the WD as much as possible first; I've heard one bike mechanic recomend burning it off... not sure how serious he was).

WD is for loosening seazed parts (due to dirt and corrosion) or general cleaning of anything that is lubricated (prior to re-lubrication).



















From the WD-40 website (emphasis mine):

"In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of * rust-prevention solvents and degreasers* for use in the aerospace industry.

Working in a small lab in San Diego, California, it took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for *WD-40® -which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try*—is still in use today."

WD-40 History - History and Timeline of WD-40 Company


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## nonreverb (Sep 19, 2006)

WD40 can act as a solvent on some components. It was not produced for electronic components. Yes, DeOxit will leave some residue. However, it's an intended residue. WD40 does not evaporate as easily. Most of it stays right were you spray it.....That's the whole idea!! It's an all in one lubricant/solvent. That's like saying; I need engine oil, I'll just spray a few of cans of WD40 in the engine and we'll be fine....
Anyone using that stuff is asking for potential trouble .


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## Guest (Jan 26, 2018)

nonreverb said:


> WD40 can act as a solvent on some components. It was not produced for electronic components. Yes, DeOxit will leave some residue. However, it's an intended residue. WD40 does not evaporate as easily. Most of it stays right were you spray it.....That's the whole idea!! It's an all in one lubricant/solvent. That's like saying; I need engine oil, I'll just spray a few of cans of WD40 in the engine and we'll be fine....
> Anyone using that stuff is asking for potential trouble .


Potential potentiometer trouble. I see on the L&W link I posted above that Deoxit sells a number of different formulas. It looks like they offer a lubricant free version.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

The shiznazz is this stuff from Thorn Hill called *Stabilant 22* (Stabilant.com). I recommend reading the appnotes: Lists: Tech Notes, SDS, AppNotes and Links It used to be sold, in the old days, as a product aimed at audiophiles, under the brand name "Tweak". The appnotes show it can be used in a wide variety of contexts.

My attention was drawn to it by Phil Bova, who owns/operates a busy studio in Ottawa ( clients | Bova Sound ). Phil records masters to 2" tape and has some very long-throw faders that need to be kept scrupulously quiet.

Stabilant is a contact _enhancer_, and can be used in combination with contact _cleaners_. Cleaners may remove grime and tarnish but do nothing to improve conductive surfaces that may have been eroded over time and use. Stabilant forms a viscous conductive layer over whatever you apply it to, that behaves like a liquid solder joint and does not dry out. Because it does not dry, an application lasts for a LOOOOOONNNNGGG time, but it also means you can't build up layers. So, as I like to joke, if you've been playing _White Room_ in a Cream cover band, thrice nightly, 4 days a week, since 1976, this stuff is not going to save your wah pot. But as long as the erosion is not too severe, it will work miracles. I've brought pots, switches, Nintendo cartridges, SIM cards, older TV remotes, and a bunch of stuff back to life using it.

It is expensive, and somewhat hard to find, but it can be diluted, and a teensy bit goes a helluva long way. After Phil introduced me to it, 15 years ago, a local now-defunct electronics place had a bin of 0.5ml "testers" for 50 cents a pop, and I bought a fistful. One of those is able to treat 30-40 pots, easily. Future Electronics (AKA Active Tech) recently started carrying it - Contact Cleaners | Chemicals And Cleaners | Active Tech Electronic Equipment) - pricier than a can of Deoxit, but able to work miracles. Unless you operate a busy repair bench, 15ml of diluted stuff will last you the rest of your life.


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## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

I use the $6 Motomaster Electrical Contact cleaner from Crappy Tire. I brought back a 1973 reverb pot and took an amp from unplayable to perfect.


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

cboutilier said:


> I use the $6 Motomaster Electrical Contact cleaner from Crappy Tire. I brought back a 1973 reverb pot and took an amp from unplayable to perfect.


I think we have a winner!


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

If ALL that's wrong with an amp or audio device is tarnished contacts and external dust, contact cleaner can be enough to fix problems. But dust from the outside world is not the only source of grime inside a pot. The wiper in a pot can only function through friction with the resistive strip. It must press against the strip. And over time and use, the wiper can erode some of the material that has been compressed to form the resistive strip. That not only scrapes up crap that behaves like external grime to produce crackling, but it also results in small pits in the surface of the resistive strip that also introduce momentary discontinuities and crackling. And THAT is where Stabilant comes in, like a fresh coat of asphalt over a noisy gravel road.

Expensive, yes, and not needed for every circumstance, but where it is needed, absolutely indispensable and worth every penny, IMHO.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

WCGill said:


> JB's indeed the man, even if he's an MM hater.


lol, I know you're joking but I'll explain anyway. I don't hate their excellent iron, just the marketing and suggested pricing. Their cost is not horrible if you can find a dealer that will apply the same kind of markup that they apply to other things like speakers, etc. It's just that won't allow any one to publish pricing below their suggested list. With normal markups I think their pricing would be competitive with other brands. The marketing itself is over-the-top style sales hype. Probably makes some of the tube sellers blush. 

Back to the topic at hand, it may sound strange but working with WD-40 for some reason gives me heartburn.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I've told the story before, but it bears repeating because it's cute.

I've had a few angioplasties years back,and those involve inserting a very thin tube into a big artery and snaking its way up to where the blockage is, where an even thinner tube inside the main one has a teeny balloon at the end. It gets inflated for a few seconds to pack all the plaque causing the blockage up against the arterial walls.

In any event, as they wheeled me into the operating room for my second procedure, I was a little, um, chemically altered. I looked up from the gurney as they wheeled me in and spotted, as God is my witness, a can of WD-40 sitting on the counter off to the side, with the familiar thin red tube sticking out of the nozzle; a tube of similar diameter to the one they were going to stick in me. My first thought was "WD-40. Is there anything it _can't_ fix?"


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

*HEARTBURN?!*

OK, WD40 is *out* again!


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

*HEART SURGERY?!* 

OK, WD4o is back *in*!


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

Some people spray WD40 on their fishing lures to attract fish. True story


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## dcole (Oct 8, 2008)

Guitar101 said:


> Some people spray WD40 on their fishing lures to attract fish. True story


I had a cousin that swore by this method. Seemed a little wired while others used beef heart and minnows.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

I think they should get the granny from Frank's red hot to do and ad for WD-40.


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## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

dcole said:


> I had a cousin that swore by this method. Seemed a little wired while others used beef heart and minnows.


When I fish stripers with the Mi'kqmaw they throw a pinch of tobacco in the river. Whatever works.


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## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

MotoMaster Electrical Contact Cleaner, 150-g | Canadian Tire


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## Tone Chaser (Mar 2, 2014)

I am very careful now about contact cleaner choice.

I used some commercial or industrial contact cleaner that an electrician at work gave me. He insisted that it was the best. It chemically welded or fused the pots, rendering them useless junk. It was either ODC or LPS brand.

I just pay the premium for a proven product like Deoxit now.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Guitar101 said:


> Some people spray WD40 on their fishing lures to attract fish. True story


Does it make extracting the hooks easier, or make the fish less squeaky?


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

Has anybody tried this stuff?

Nexxtech Contact & Head Cleaner Spray

I think Nexxtech is the house brand at The Source now.

I'm not sure what sort of "head" they expect to be cleaning, but it looks like it could be an option?

L&M isn't very convenient for me, and Cosmo seems to be out of stock on DeOxit.

Is there anything in Canadian Tire or Home Depot that would do the job?


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

It would have been for videorecorder, answering machine, and cassette tape heads. And if it is _really_ NOS, 8-tracks.

The slightly more cumbersome solution, which I've done on many an occasion, is to simply pry the tabs up for the covers on the back of pots, and just use a Q-tip to wipe the resistive strip. Admittedly, not all pots allow easy enough access to do that, and not all pots permit reasonable access to wipe the resistive strip. However, if you can access it, you'll likely be unpleasantly surprised by the crap that comes off. Ideally, the Q-tip is dabbed in a little alchohol first to help. Obviously, this is not the sort of thing you can do to push-button or toggle switches, but if getting hold of any sort of spray stuff is hard, this will do for many applications.

About the tabs. Pry them _gently_; just enough to be able to jiggle the back off the pot. Once you have clean and replaced the back, the tabs can be pushed back down and clamped tight with your needle-nose pliers


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

Tone Chaser said:


> I am very careful now about contact cleaner choice.
> 
> I used some commercial or industrial contact cleaner that an electrician at work gave me. He insisted that it was the best. It chemically welded or fused the pots, rendering them useless junk. It was either ODC or LPS brand.
> 
> I just pay the premium for a proven product like Deoxit now.


Thanks for the info. I am scrapping the old industrial cleaner shown in the photo of my first post. I will try the "residue-free" one on an expendable part.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

Staples has the MC Chemicals Contact Cleaner, but they don't stock it in their brick and mortar stores, only online.

MG Chemicals Contact Cleaner, 5oz | Staples

Not sure this is a great option anyway if it just strips and does not lubricate afterwards.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

I used MG chemicals 'Nutrol' for many years with great results and zero problems.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

I can't find a handy source for Nu-trol or for DeOxit for that matter, where I can just stop by and pick up a can tonight or tomorrow.

I guess I'll have to order something online, or plan a special trip.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Just note that some of what perturbs people enough to feel the need to clean pots or switches is dust. While contact cleaners like Deoxit can remove tarnish from contacts, plain old compressed air can be enough to remove dust. And you can get cans of compressed air in lots of places


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## Frenchy99 (Oct 15, 2016)

mhammer said:


> plain old compressed air can be enough to remove dust. And you can get cans of compressed air in lots of places



I get the wife to blow on them !


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## Guest (Feb 3, 2018)

Frenchy99 said:


> I get the wife to blow on them !


Not sure if hot air is recommended.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

Greg Ellis said:


> I can't find a handy source for Nu-trol or for DeOxit for that matter, where I can just stop by and pick up a can tonight or tomorrow.
> 
> I guess I'll have to order something online, or plan a special trip.


Sorry this is a little late, there's a Sayal Electronics in Markham and Barrie.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

Yeah, I knew about Sayal. It's a bit out of the way for me, but maybe I can get over there at lunch hour some time next week if I don't find some other way.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

Nu-trol is a LOT less expensive than DeOxit, from what I can see, especially within Canada.

e.g. from RP Electronics in Burnaby BC:

142g of DeOxit 5% is $24.90
140g of Nu-trol is $9.80

Now I'm wondering if there might be a product in the MG Chemicals line that serves the same purpose as DeOxit FADER.

Any thoughts on that?

I've got a mixer that needs some TLC.


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## KapnKrunch (Jul 13, 2016)

Greg Ellis said:


> Nu-trol is a LOT less expensive than DeOxit, from what I can see, especially within Canada.
> 
> e.g. from RP Electronics in Burnaby BC:
> 
> ...


You heard JBWelder. Nu-trol is good. I have it on *good* *authority* that the guy knows what he is talking about. He is too modest. 

Do not overthink this, just try it and save the money. Its bullshit that drives the price up, not imaginary qualities.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

Grin,

I'm looking for TWO products.

One is a general pots and switches and jacks cleaner, like DeOxit 5%, and I think the Nu-trol will probably work just great for that.

The OTHER product I'm looking for is a cleaner/conditioner specifically for FADERS, like the channel faders on a mixing board. DeOxit makes one that's called DeOxit FADER. 

What I don't know is:

a. how is this different from regular DeOxit? What's in it that makes it useful for conditioning faders?
b. is there a product in the MG Chemicals line which is similar and serves the same purpose?


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

Kap'n, did that cheque show up yet? 

Near as I can tell, the deoxit F5 is more of a lube. If you get carried away with spraying faders you can alter the feel of the slider. I think the F5 takes that into account, also that a slider probably gets more travel 'miles' than a rotary pot.
In real critical applications you can disassemble the slider and re-grease the 'bearing' surfaces and use the cleaner/lube on only the carbon or conductive plastic.
Searching the MG line, look for something with more lubricant that is also safe for conductive plastics. Or just drop them an email and mention the F5, I'm sure they have encountered the question before.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks. Yeah good idea, I sent them an email just now.


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## Greg Ellis (Oct 1, 2007)

I never heard back from MG after 5 days.

Stopped in at Sayal in Markham over lunch today and bought a mid-size can (140g-ish) of Nu-trol for $10 and a similar sized can of DeOxit Fader for $30.

I'm hoping to get to work on my mixer over the weekend.


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## Scotty (Jan 30, 2013)

WCGill said:


> WD-40 stinks too.


I love the smell of WD. Not good for much other than wet ignition systems though (old coil, points and condenser ignitions that hate the wet)

Or spraying on wet tools...except for those with rubber grips


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## Scotty (Jan 30, 2013)

jb welder said:


> lol, I know you're joking but I'll explain anyway. I don't hate their excellent iron, just the marketing and suggested pricing. Their cost is not horrible if you can find a dealer that will apply the same kind of markup that they apply to other things like speakers, etc. It's just that won't allow any one to publish pricing below their suggested list. With normal markups I think their pricing would be competitive with other brands. The marketing itself is over-the-top style sales hype. Probably makes some of the tube sellers blush.
> 
> Back to the topic at hand, it may sound strange but working with WD-40 for some reason gives me heartburn.



WORK gives me heartburn


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