# Traynor YBA-1 wiring dillema



## gretschie (Jan 11, 2012)

View attachment 907
View attachment 908
Well, the seemingly straight forward job of replacing the filter caps on this old 69' YBA-1, has turned out to prove the inportance of knowing how to read a schematic and taking more photos... I removed the old caps and thought I'd have the new ones back in while it was still freash in my mind but boy was I wrong Again.. any looking at the schematic, I'm still not 110% right I have the leads hooked up right on the caps..

From what I can figure out is the 2 hot red leads that feed the diodes of recitfier come off on the green wire that supply the first cap, and that feeds the primary of the OT through the red and yellow wires then the secondary which would be the black feeds the 2nd cap...

I also am ugrading to the grounded 110V which is removed presently, but my main concern is the leads on the E-caps..If anyone that has a similar amp could let me know if I'm close or way off, I'd appreciate it...


----------



## GuitarsCanada (Dec 30, 2005)

I can't help you with this one, someone should be able to though. But I do support the idea of taking photo's prior to doing a wiring job. I learned that many years ago the hard way


----------



## gretschie (Jan 11, 2012)

You'd think being 51 yrs old I'd know that by now, but goes to show, we're never to old to learn from our mistakes..My buddy who frequents this site told me this is the place the true Traynor junkies hang out that'll know the deal with this layout..Thank you..


----------



## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

I own and have worked on several Traynor's with most being YBA-1's or similar and I've never seen the filter caps in any of them wired with the terminals bridged at the cap. 
Taking photos is always a wise idea. I photograph every amp in detail before I touch it.
Was this amp working before you started working on it? Did you replace the small electrolytic caps (bias caps) next to the rectifier section in the picture and lift one leg of the yellow film cap at attach a wire to it or was is like this when you started? 

If you're not comfortable reading schematics you really should reconsider working on the amp and bring it to a tech or a knowledgeable buddy. You are dealing with lethal voltages and a lot of older amps have been worked on and serviced over the years and things may have been changed or been modified. 
Also Traynor amps don't always match the schematics, even if it's the included one that Traynor provided.

I have some pics of my 1968 or 69 YBA-1 that I will upload shortly. It is mostly stock and does not work as it needs several repairs and updates done before I would ever consider putting electricity to it and a previous owner made changes to it such as bypassing the standby switch, installing an extra "death cap" and who knows what else as I haven't had the time to look at it closely yet. Use at your own risk.

Download the file here. There are 10 photos in it. 
http://www.filedropper.com/yba-1


----------



## Cups (Jan 5, 2010)

The way the caps are wired will work. You have the first supply nod in parrallel which supplies the output trans then the choke between them to the second stage which is also the cap can in parrallel, which is going to the next stage (wich should be the screens but I can't see enough to tell). There should be more filtering to forthcoming stages though and I don't see any other filter caps (except the caps in the bias supply that Jeff alluded to which were changed.)
There was definately some work done on this thing and without a full view of the amp (or ideally the amp in front of me) I'd be hesitant to tell you how to preceed. The advice to bring it to someone with knowledge is a good one.


----------



## gretschie (Jan 11, 2012)

Jeff B. the yellow cap is attached to the cap if you look close which goes to a MV that someone installed...yes the amp was working fine until I decided to install new E-caps...I've built a bunch of 5E3's in the past and also a few 5F1 from scratch so this isn't the first time i've decided to play with an amp..and your link with the photos requires signup and a download by the looks of things so I decided to pass, but thank you just the same..I prefer photobucket as anyone can view it from the link..

Cups...I ended up removing the jumper on the cap closest to the PI and after awhile and careful thinking before plugging in it, I got it working, and it's working and sounding good...

Thank you guys for the replies as I appreciate it..


----------



## Jeff B. (Feb 20, 2010)

gretschie said:


> Jeff B. the yellow cap is attached to the cap if you look close which goes to a MV that someone installed...yes the amp was working fine until I decided to install new E-caps...I've built a bunch of 5E3's in the past and also a few 5F1 from scratch so this isn't the first time i've decided to play with an amp..and your link with the photos requires signup and a download by the looks of things so I decided to pass, but thank you just the same..I prefer photobucket as anyone can view it from the link..
> 
> Cups...I ended up removing the jumper on the cap closest to the PI and after awhile and careful thinking before plugging in it, I got it working, and it's working and sounding good...
> 
> Thank you guys for the replies as I appreciate it..


Sorry about the link. I was in a hurry and Googled for a free file host and that come up.
I've uploaded it to my server instead. You can get it here. http://maritimeanalog.com/other/YBA-1.zip


----------



## TheRumRunner (Sep 29, 2011)

getschie (Ernie), do take a look at the photos Jeff uploaded, they are high res and show an unmolested yba of which I'm sure will be of use in getting yours sorted.

cheers...

DW


----------

