# Now I'm Building a Tube Amp! 5F1 Champ



## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Well, as you are all tired of hearing, the time has come to build a 5F1 Champ.

Got the last of the parts today, I'll inventory them later.

I went a foolish route and bought some 0.080 Aluminum sheet to build into a chassis. Problem is I guess they got tired of looking for 0.080" and sold me 0.1012".

Realistically that wouldn't be a big deal if a person had the proper tools, but alas I do not.

I wanted to be able to do a 5 sides box top and then screw it to the base but that plan went out the window as it is too difficult to work with so I had to settle for a 3 sides top plate.










I had to cut a channel in it about half way through and anneal it to get it to bend without a break. It is amazingly square as is evident to how it sits on that piece of wood.










You can see the fold relief there.

Let me tell you, 0.1012" is not your friend. It is however extremely strong and gives me no concern.

I'll be back later with some photos of the cut out chassis but for now, thanks for following along.


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## jdto (Sep 30, 2015)

Oh boy, this should be fun!


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Sweet!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

So, being day one.... I am going to call it a win.

Incase anyone else thinks it is a good idea to make a chassis..... well, friends don't let friends make a chassis!

Holy hell, that was a mistake. I've got over 5 hours of putzing around into it and all I have is a box with holes in it!

That being said, things went really well. This would be much faster and better on a press with a pre-established plan. I didn't have that. I just made it up as I went along, so unfortunately I had to have the box folded to see it. Next time (never, so help me god) I would pre cut everything flat and then fold it.

Anyhow, here is how far we got.

It is 5Y3/6v6/12AX7










Jigsaw for the PT and a step bit for everything else.

Look here, I even remembered them little rubber things so as not to electrocute myself!










Tomorrow will be the power input and speaker output, plus I'll tap all the holes for machine screws. Hoping to use the two output transformer screws and some nuts to secure the board and then it should just be two more over by the Power Transformer. I would like to avoid using standoffs on it as the fewer odds and sods protruding from the top the happier I will be.


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## StratCat (Dec 30, 2013)

Very cool project. Looking forward to the rest of the build and sound samples!


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## diyfabtone (Mar 9, 2016)

Very good work! Making a chassis definitely gives you more DIY cred, but it's a pita. Thicker metal sheet will be very sturdy and ring less. Looking forward to next update!


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## DaddyDog (Apr 21, 2017)

This is terrific. Good on you! I'd love to be able to do this.

BTW I picked up a 5F2 on the weekend from my amp tech, and it sounds amazing. Hope yours works out.


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## Kerry Brown (Mar 31, 2014)

Looks great. There is no way I have the skills or the patience. I'm envious.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

As this shows, there is very little difference between the 5F1 and 5F2-A Princeton. Consider adding a Tone control, or at least bright cap/switch, and possibly a switch to lift the 22k negative feedback resistor, for even more bite.


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## seapotato (10 mo ago)

Very cool. I need a nice amp, and miss the hell out of my old princeton, now you have me thinking I should build one. 

You just going off the schematic for the parts you need or was there a list out there you followed ?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

seapotato said:


> Very cool. I need a nice amp, and miss the hell out of my old princeton, now you have me thinking I should build one.
> 
> You just going off the schematic for the parts you need or was there a list out there you followed ?


I picked them all off the schematic, then double checked it against a parts list from the StewMac build instructions which I was kindly guided to by @Always12AM .

They are very concise instructions.

I'll eventually get around to editing that first post with a complete parts list/tools/hardware however seeing as im not done and don't have a stellar plan, for the moment that list would be incomplete.



mhammer said:


> As this shows, there is very little difference between the 5F1 and 5F2-A Princeton. Consider adding a Tone control, or at least bright cap/switch, and possibly a switch to lift the 22k negative feedback resistor, for even more bite.
> View attachment 432357


That will definitely be mod number one! Very simple to do and I certainly have the room in the chassis. Now I just gotta sort out where to stuff the reverb tank


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Up until a few weeks ago I could have had that bent with "legs" or 5 sides as you say in about 30 seconds, then had all the holes punched in another 5 minutes. But I don't work there any more. Great job though with hand tools only. Looks really good.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

You may want to watch this:


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

knight_yyz said:


> Up until a few weeks ago I could have had that bent with "legs" or 5 sides as you say in about 30 seconds, then had all the holes punched in another 5 minutes. But I don't work there any more. Great job though with hand tools only. Looks really good.


If I had a break and a press, I would be in a whole different league!

What I had is a 10" tile wet saw, 10" table saw a 2x4 and some clamps. Oh and the torch I use for plumbing solder. So, professional


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## seapotato (10 mo ago)

Mark Brown said:


> If I had a break and a press, I would be in a whole different league!
> 
> What I had is a 10" tile wet saw, 10" table saw a 2x4 and come clamps. Oh and rhe torch I use for plumbing solder. So, professional


I have a brake and a press...the chassis would be the easiest part for me, it's them squiggly lines on the schematics that'd be hurting my brain. haha


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## diyfabtone (Mar 9, 2016)

Do you really want/need two inputs? Fender designed those in the 50's - they thought players would share amps! I doubt if anyone has been doing that since the end of the 60's? Why not drop the 2nd Low input circuit and use the jack for a foot switch? 

You could switch negative feedback in/out, or add a Tone stack with a ground lift as a boost, or a Bright switch?


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Following this one!
I had the thought of building one some day, but that day is too hampered by other things in life...oh well. All I really know about tube amps is that something cannot be close to something else or it will cause noise, and I can't remember what those somethings are...lol.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

diyfabtone said:


> Do you really want/need two inputs? Fender designed those in the 50's - they thought players would share amps! I doubt if anyone has been doing that since the end of the 60's? Why not drop the 2nd Low input circuit and use the jack for a foot switch?
> 
> You could switch negative feedback in/out, or add a Tone stack with a ground lift as a boost, or a Bright switch?


Because I don't know what the hell I am doing, so I want to build the thing that is the thing first 

While what you say makes complete and utter sense 100% and @mhammer 's suggestion of wiring a Princeton instead is also an excellent suggest, I want to (need) to start here at this basic little thing and then see what it/I can do from there. If I don't have a baseline, I would have nothing for comparison. By starting so low as a base, it should be easy to see how differing components, paths and options do to change the whole.

I am not really concerned with the "functionality" of the thing, I am building it as a bench amp, that stays in my house and gets torn apart and reworked and torn apart again until I no longer fit that chassis and need to do something else.

Speaking of the chassis, it is done. Well, when I say done, I mean the top is finished. I'll worry about a side and bottom some other time. I did manage to get the board secured with the Output Transformer screws, Huzzah. The poor thing won't win any awards for beauty, speed, design but it was fun none the less. I won't say I am happy with it, but I am not completely disappointed. Let's just say thank goodness I am not trying to sell these things.










In hindsight, it would have been favorable to flip the screws holding the board, so as they are bolted into the top of the amp and something tells when when I take it out to wire it, that is exactly what will happen. This however gives the concept. Bolts down, nuts used on either side of the board to keep it in place. Locktite will go on the final, if by locktite I mean nail polish.

As you can see, there is ample room to work thanks to not stuffing it into a wee little Champ chassis. That will help my ogre hands and lack of ability a little.










Little sideboob shot so as to give better idea of the space available.

And then, the back. Seeing as I wanted a head and since space is limited for storage, I added a 3 prong AC connection so I can remove the cord when it is not being used and to make servicing it much easier. 










Now I am off to layout the board, I am fairly certain that I need to add some eyelets in a few spots as the board I bought it not exactly what I am building. We shall see what happens.

That crack up there in the top right of the back, that has been there since I first folded it. I figured since this isn't going to hit store shelves any time soon, it isn't going to be an issue. After the abuse I put the chassis through drilling it all, if it hasn't gotten worse, it isn't going to be terminal any time soon.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Extended wall mount monitor for the win!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

This went a lot easier than I would have imagined. I tested all of the caps and resistors (I even know the difference now) and for the resistors I took the ones closest, im sure it wasn't required but it was mostly for curiosity. I am short one Orange Drop 0.022uf 600v which was ordered yesterday. Patience is ok, im getting tired and my eyes are bugging out so its time to be done for today anyhow.

Given the placement of the posts in regards to the build, I will just leave them as they are. They won't interfere with anything and there is enough distance I dont have to worry about contact.










Wish I had of gone for the 3w Metal oxide for the second voltage drop just so they match.... oh well, next time


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> This however gives the concept. Bolts down, nuts used on either side of the board to keep it in place. Locktite will go on the final, if by locktite I mean nail polish.


Some people use threaded stand-offs.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Paul Running said:


> Some people use threaded stand-offs.
> View attachment 432428


Which would have been great if they were being sold at the retailer I was at. There was a very limited selection of anything M4 .70 and there was nothing below. Who the hell needs M4s to screw down tube sockets 

Personally, I hate hex heads and would have preferred torques, oh well. 

But I take your meaning well, I am rather familiar with a standoff and believe you me, it was my first choice.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

For anyone that would like to know...

If you wire your power transformer and think you are losing your shit because you see 4.01Ohm resistance across the input, but every component and connection measures 0.00... don't worry. You just need to pull up the information sheet on the power transformer and see that it has an internal winding resistance of 3.927 Ohm.

... dumbass


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Do so know how to solder 









Got all the 6v and 5v wires up to the tubes.

Light, switch, fuse.

Everything except the HT wires. I'm out of gas for now.

I gotta say this Hakko is a great little unit. Thanks for the suggestions.

Solid core wire is so much nicer than stranded. I wish I would have got some better quality though. The jacket on this stuff is shite and I would have done better to get tinned stranded from Nextgen. Oh well, next time. Problem was I was just gonna use the tinned stranded I have here, but then I thought maybe it would be best if everything wasn't blue 









I was having an extremely hard time working with the soldering gun. Things just weren't happening right, heat transfer was terrible, I could not get it tinned, nothing. 

Don't know what I did, but the first tip I had was trashed. Funny, it had been that way since I took it out of the package. Must have done something to it. No matter, I thought I would try another tip, assuming I was just an idiot. Well... let me tell you. Night and day. Fell in love with the Hakko right then and there for good. Solder started flowing fantastic, connections were taking less than 10 seconds and voila, just in time for the tube connections. 

Plugged it in just to see, tested all the voltages across the devices, checked continuity where I could and so far, so good!!

Not happy with the twisting on the wire coming out of the PT but I was more concerned with getting tension in it and destroying it internally than I was with getting a hard twist on it. Gotta settle some times.


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## Hammerhands (Dec 19, 2016)

diyfabtone said:


> Do you really want/need two inputs? Fender designed those in the 50's - they thought players would share amps! I doubt if anyone has been doing that since the end of the 60's? Why not drop the 2nd Low input circuit and use the jack for a foot switch?
> 
> You could switch negative feedback in/out, or add a Tone stack with a ground lift as a boost, or a Bright switch?


I was thinking about the two jacks, I may have had a discussion about it at some point. If you are a working musician, you've probably had an input crap out on you at some time, that second input will save your night.


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## StevieMac (Mar 4, 2006)

The work is looking great thus far Mark. I'll be watching this thread! Your tubes left the station last week btw. I wasn't able to test so sent 2 of each for good measure.


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## 2N1305 (Nov 2, 2009)

DOOD! - eyesore alert : please correct the title to the correct appelation of the amplifier revision. I'm trying to be as disloginal as possible.

(hint : 5F1, not F51)


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## 2N1305 (Nov 2, 2009)

How crude of me for omitting to express my appreciation... Mark, so far, you seem to have dine very respectable work on everything, congratulations!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

2N1305 said:


> DOOD! - eyesore alert : please correct the title to the correct appelation of the amplifier revision. I'm trying to be as disloginal as possible.
> 
> (hint : 5F1, not F51)


Dyslexia strikes me again!!

I have been looking at it for weeks and every single time my eyes tell my brain what they see, well you see!!

Thanks for clearing that up.

Good thing all the wires are just the same color, then I can't get them backwards


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Mark Brown said:


> Dyslexia strikes me again!!
> 
> I have been looking at it for weeks and every single time my eyes tell my brain what they see, well you see!!
> 
> ...


Ahem


It's Lysdexia, Dued.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Sooooooo circuit/eyelet board soldering sucks! This is not nearly as fun as lugs. It's a bit different getting 3 or 4 connections heated and that eyelet. I'm getting better so by the end i might just have it. 

Got all the tubes wired up this morning, output line and well.... everything that isn't directly connected to the board. Another two or 3 hours and I should be done. Trying to take my time and do the best I can so I can really appreciate it when I flip it on and it doesn't work!










A bit of a rats nest until I get all the lines sorted, but coming along nicely!


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Did I read correctly, you are doing all this with a soldering gun?


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

he's using a Hakko 888

amplified parts has the 5F1 turret board for 6 bucks turrets installed. Shipping is extra though. Would make it look so much better.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

keto said:


> Did I read correctly, you are doing all this with a soldering gun?


I misspoke it is a pencil iron.

Gun would probably work better for the board though, even some of the larger lugs. 



knight_yyz said:


> amplified parts has the 5F1 turret board for 6 bucks turrets installed. Shipping is extra though. Would make it look so much better.
> View attachment 432589



Turrets, Bus Bar, floating wires in the sky..... I think anything would be better than an eyelet board to be honest. I'm not happy with my choice, but thats ok. It will suffice for now.

Nothing particularly wrong with them but it is a cumbersome way to go about things, especially routing under the board.

Live and learn.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I agree, I just think the eyelet boards are fugly.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

knight_yyz said:


> I agree, I just think the eyelet boards are fugly.


They really are!


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## 2N1305 (Nov 2, 2009)

Mark Brown said:


> They really are!


 pff, m'exqueezerbonkers, but I think what you have looks way more vintage than a modern looking (machined) turret board. Dued (as corrected), keep it. and your wiring is pretty swell for a newbie. Keep going 

ALso "Tomorrow will be the power input and speaker output, plus I'll tap all the holes for machine screws. "

Not sure there are any tapped holes as Fender pretty much used only self-tapping (threading) screws, especially on a little amp like that. I don't know what would need tapping, unless, well, of course, they didn't use a thick slab of aluminum to make a chassis 😉 but you may have to! lol


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I worry about function first. eyelets seem to work well. Turrets too, PTP. They all work.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

2N1305 said:


> pff, m'exqueezerbonkers, but I think what you have looks way more vintage than a modern looking (machined) turret board. Dued (as corrected), keep it. and your wiring is pretty swell for a newbie. Keep going
> 
> ALso "Tomorrow will be the power input and speaker output, plus I'll tap all the holes for machine screws. "
> 
> Not sure there are any tapped holes as Fender pretty much used only self-tapping (threading) screws, especially on a little amp like that. I don't know what would need tapping, unless, well, of course, they didn't use a thick slab of aluminum to make a chassis 😉 but you may have to! lol


If I'm gonna use a chunk of metal that big (not on purpose) I'm sure as hell gonna waste my time tapping it!

I was never one to do things the easy way.

I can assure you Fender would have never made it as a company if they tried to do things this way!

As for the wiring, there is nothing new in this to me other than the components. I have a neurotic unhealthy relationship with messy wires. I rewired my whole entire electrical panel at home here because it looked sloppy when I bought it (the house that is). You know, the panel that lives in the wall behind a sheet of metal that you will never ever see 

I tried to tell you I wasn't quite as dumb as I come across, I am just unknowing when it comes to tube amps.

Thanks for the nod!


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## DBS_180 (Oct 2, 2018)

+1 on adding the tone control, so easy to add and it's useful. 

I'd increase the filtering, single-ended amps tend to have more hum because of the lack of noise cancellation from a push-pull. I did 32uF, 16uF and 16uF on my 5f2a build. 

Also a NFB switch is very useful. I went a step further and did a switched 50k linear pot, so I could have no NFB to 50k-5k NFB. 

Let us know what your voltages are..


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

DBS_180 said:


> Let us know what your voltages


You tell me what a NFB switch is an ill tell you my volages


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Mark Brown said:


> You tell me what a NFB switch is an ill tell you my volages



Oh I get it,

Among amp builders, telling someone your voltages is sort of like telling someone your prefixes.....?


No?

Am I bad?


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## 2N1305 (Nov 2, 2009)

I'm not even sure what that meant but it might have been a joke... Or it could be that dbs wanted to know what voltages the poser supply puts out, but I woudn't do that without loading the supply somewhat.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

I won't know the voltages until it is complete.

I can tell you the 6v reads 6.89v and the 5v reads 5.22v and the HT reads 221v but until it is too late to turn back I won't know the rest.


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## DBS_180 (Oct 2, 2018)

2N1305 said:


> I'm not even sure what that meant but it might have been a joke...


How is asking for voltage measurements a joke? 



Mark Brown said:


> You tell me what a NFB switch is an ill tell you my volages


I used a switched 50k linear pot. Switched meaning off-on. Fully CCW is off, soon as you turn CW it 'switches' on, introducing 50k NFB. As you turn CW, it lowers the NFB resistor all the way to 5k. This is just what I did, probably overkill but it's a cool option to have


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

DBS_180 said:


> As you turn CW, it lowers the NFB resistor all the way to 5k.


Thanks for filling me in! I'm really not versed enough to start knowing wtf people are taking about if we start using abbreviations 

Variable resistor in negative feedback might be fun, or we call it a potentiometer, either or.

I'm looking forward to modding it as much as I was to build it, so we shall see what happens along the way.

Thank you for the suggestion.


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## DBS_180 (Oct 2, 2018)

Mark Brown said:


> Thank you for the suggestion.


All good, and for voltage measurements I meant when complete: plate, screen, etc.


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## 2N1305 (Nov 2, 2009)

DBS_180 said:


> How is asking for voltage measurements a joke?


I don't know... maybe I didn't read the thread enough to know where mark was at. It was just one possibility, especially since his reply to that was kinda funny. Joke is not the correct word, I meant something more along the lines of "he could be trying to be funny". Which admittedly doesn't sound much better. I'm gonna go over here now....


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

2N1305 said:


> I don't know... maybe I didn't read the thread enough to know where mark was at. It was just one possibility, especially since his reply to that was kinda funny. Joke is not the correct word, I meant something more along the lines of "he could be trying to be funny". Which admittedly doesn't sound much better. I'm gonna go over here now....


Just my poor attempt at humour. I admire the level of technical knowledge on display in this (and other) threads, and was just poking a little fun.

No offense or disrespect was intended. And, no, I won't quit my day job just yet.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> I was never one to do things the easy way.


It may be more work tapping holes however, it makes assembly and disassembly much easier...I try to tap holes as much as possible, it's worth the trade-off for you and the repair tech.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Paul Running said:


> It may be more work tapping holes however, it makes assembly and disassembly much easier...I try to tap holes as much as possible, it's worth the trade-off for you and the repair tech.


You know, I bought nuts and lock washers for everything however with how secure the tapped bolt holes are, they are unrequired. There was a single benefit to using this bloody thick stuff.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

All Done!










Except the missing cap, but that will arrive today. Then I can plug it in and test it all.

Here's to hope!

This has been a ton of fun so far, lots of learning and lots of soldering. I am nervous about it all as I have no idea if it will work until I plug it in, I have been checking continuity/resistance where I can so what I can look at looks good but there is a lot more going on that is connected through the tubes that I won't know until I know.

Looking forward to the next stage of voltage testing and hopefully before the end of the day, plugging it in and seeing how she does!


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Do you have a plan of attack for your initial power-up?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Paul Running said:


> Do you have a plan of attack for your initial power-up?


I'm going to follow the StewMac instructions for that. They have a very detailed sequential order that looks like it makes the most sense and doesn't leave me guessing and has the least possibility of failure!

I should add, I will include a detailed description of what I do and the corresponding voltages when the time comes.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Mark Brown said:


> I'm going to follow the StewMac instructions for that.


Is this what you are referring to? Just in case other amp builders in the GC forum want to comment.

BE SAFE!!!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

https://www.stewmac.com/globalassets/video-and-ideas/online-resources/building-instruments/57-mini-tweed-5w-amp-kit-instructions/download-57-mini-tweed-5w-amp-kit-instructions



Unfamiliar with the video, but I assume so 

The start up procedure is close to the end... go figure


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Do you have a current limiter?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Jim DaddyO said:


> Do you have a current limiter?


Can't say I do....
Hell i can't even say I know what you are talking about


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## DBS_180 (Oct 2, 2018)

Lightbulb current limiter, google it, easy to build


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

Mark Brown said:


> Can't say I do....
> Hell i can't even say I know what you are talking about


Pretty much what DBS said. A lightbulb, plugged inline with the output to an outlet, then the amp plugs into that outlet. Very easy build. It's supposed to prevent death or something minor like that.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Hmmm....

Preventing death sounds like a good idea. Might save me from poking every surface of the amp with my multi-meter too.

Before I wired any of the HT lines, I plugged it in to see what would happen. I don't think there was a surface on there I didn't probe with my meter to see what may or may not try to murder me.

Fear is good!


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## Frenchy (Mar 23, 2011)

I let the wife power them up...


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Testing out the 5Y3 voltage 

StewMac Says 479
MarkBro Says 482

I'm going to go ahead and call that a win!

@greco this pics for you buddy!










About 10 seconds after unplugging I measured one of the caps as 432v. Duly noted.

After I ground them out with my alligator there they were all under 3.5v which I'm going to go ahead and call safe.

You guys put the fear of God into me about this, I just about had a heart attack just flipping the power on


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Mark Brown said:


> Testing out the 5Y3 voltage
> 
> StewMac Says 479
> MarkBro Says 482
> ...


Ain’t it fun? All 3 of mine, I turned on listened for hum, if negligibe plugged in a guitar, with my heart thrumming in my throat the whole way. They didnt all work 100% right away, but I didn’t get hurt.


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## Always12AM (Sep 2, 2018)

Sometimes your gonna get slightly electrocuted. But each time, I’ve only lost about 2% mobility in my left arm. So I have about 49 electrocutions left before I’m going to have to learn to use my right hand to bastermate.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

keto said:


> Ain’t it fun? All 3 of mine, I turned on listened for hum, if negligibe plugged in a guitar, with my heart thrumming in my throat the whole way. They didnt all work 100% right away, but I didn’t get hurt.


It is more fun than I thought it could be honestly. I cannot say I learned a lot about amplifiers in the actual building of one, that was mostly just throwing pieces into a box but the act itself gave me reason to learn. I like the learning as much as the doing, probably more in fact. Either way, I learned a lot, had a bunch of fun and am very close to having an amplifier that works (Maybe).


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

There is also an easily made tool used to discharge capacitors before you go sticking your fingers into an amp. Just a resistor, a piece of wire, some heat shrink, and a clip with a bit of something insulated to hold on to if you want to get fancy. Clip goes on the chassis and you just touch the cap leads so they ground out. You can look up several variations on the interwebs that are as easy or as complicated as you wish.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Jim DaddyO said:


> There is also an easily made tool used to discharge capacitors before you go sticking your fingers into an amp. Just a resistor, a piece of wire, some heat shrink, and a clip with a bit of something insulated to hold on to if you want to get fancy. Clip goes on the chassis and you just touch the cap leads so they ground out. You can look up several variations on the interwebs that are as easy or as complicated as you wish.


Good sir, you may wish to look up 

I made that little resistor line long before I started messing about with anything else. Mostly because the parts were here already, but also because people yelled at me not to kill myself 

Safety never hurt anyone!


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Consider purchase of a pair of rubber gloves. Rubber is a much better insulator, and much poorer conductor than human skin.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

mhammer said:


> Consider purchase of a pair of rubber gloves. Rubber is a much better insulator, and much poorer conductor than human skin.


I just consider not getting electrocuted 

I have a very healthy respect for electricity (FEAR) and operate in a manner that results in me being very secure in the knowledge that I will not get hurt.

That and I hate gloves. Psoriasis and gloves make my sweaty self an unhappy pappy. Probably rather get shocked


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## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

Jim DaddyO said:


> There is also an easily made tool used to discharge capacitors before you go sticking your fingers into an amp. Just a resistor, a piece of wire, some heat shrink, and a clip with a bit of something insulated to hold on to if you want to get fancy. Clip goes on the chassis and you just touch the cap leads so they ground out. You can look up several variations on the interwebs that are as easy or as complicated as you wish.


I am a visual learner, please help me out?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

MarkM said:


> I am a visual learner, please help me out?


Just an inline 2K 5W resistor. Hook an end to chassis ground and then probe the positive end of the caps. Discharge is pretty instant to get down to non lethal/shocking voltage. Leave it attached and they bleed right down below 1V. I leave it hooked up when I'm working on it for safety sake.


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## ezcomes (Jul 28, 2008)

Mark Brown said:


> Just an inline 2K 5W resistor. Hook an end to chassis ground and then probe the positive end of the caps. Discharge is pretty instant to get down to non lethal/shocking voltage. Leave it attached and they bleed right down below 1V. I leave it hooked up when I'm working on it for safety sake.


When i built my 18W i put a discharge resister in too...that way, i know that the amp is safe within a few minutes...but...i always check before i get my sausages in there

Looking forward to hearing some clips!
Good work!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

It's Alive!!!

So thanks to a delay with the post I have been impatiently waiting for my pre and power tubes to arrive and today they did.

When I got this thing all wired and ready to go I figured I was a champ. I was getting the voltages listed in the StewMac start up procedure or there about, or as far as I could test. Then when I put the tubes *ALL* in some funky chicken started. I was getting 50+V at the V1 Cathode. That is bad....

Having exactly no knowledge of why, I started looking around. Everything seemed right, everywhere.... except there. I had no clue. Plugged it in and cranked it up and..... flubb. It would play exactly half a second of any given note, then nothing. Wait a bit and play that precious half second again and then nothing. Something wasn't right.

Well... let me tell you something. When ordering parts at 4:30 am on the internet it pays to have drank at least half of your morning coffee first. Now admittedly I did check all the resistors and caps as they went in, however I checked them against what they were supposed to be on the packaging, I never assumed I had the wrong pieces. Wouldn't you know, in my naivety and lack of sense I had ordered a 4.7M Ohm resistor where a 470 should be. Oopsies. Turns out when I was putting them all in, I just saw the only thing that was 470 ish, not that 4700000 and 470 are the same, but they have the right numbers. Well eventually I figured this out because the only thing left for me to do was to track each component in the line and sort out where I went wrong. So that was that.

I dove into my parts and tried to find a 470 Ohm resistor. Well I could not, but I did have 2 240s so that was good enough. Wired them in series and voila, I put in my 480 Ohm resistor except....

The same damn thing was happening!!!

So, it would turn out that I am really an idiot.... In my gleeful exuberance the two 240 Ohm resistors I fished out were in fact 240K. Would you believe I still measured that bloody 50V!!!

One last kick at the can. I went through all the stuff I just bought from @keto and voila, there was my salvation. One 5w 440 Ohm resistor. No Ks or Ms or any other nonsense, just 440 Ohm.

Well, let me tell you. I plugged it in, measured that stupid cathode voltage and there it was 18.7v Good enough for me!!

Plugged the guitar in and man alive, it is everything I had hoped it would be. This little thing sings.

Here is a crappy clip of some crappy playing. I never realized how much a crutch reverb is but without it I don't know how to play guitar apparently.


__
https://soundcloud.com/mark-brown-171515057%2F5f1-sound-clip


I will get some more clips up soon of break up and full on tube overdrive and see what she has to say about that.

For my first kick at the can, I have to say, I am very pleased with the results. It does have a bit of hiss when it is cranked but nothing I would not expect from any other amplifier so I don't think that is an issue/problem to be resolved as much as the nature of the beast.

Special Thanks to @StevieMac and @Alan Small for their generosity and support!! As well as @Always12AM for putting up with me and offering encouragement.

Thanks to everyone who has helped guide me in fact. Some were active and some passive but without the collective knowledge shared here I would have never even though to try this. Knowing that if I fell flat on my face there were good people here that would help me succeed was a huge part of even starting so thanks to you all.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

CONGRATS! Well done!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

greco said:


> CONGRATS! Well done!


Well Thanks 

I am actually rather proud of myself. I understand that as far as amplifiers go this one is rather simple and I would be the first to admit it isn't like building it truly gave me any more knowledge than I had about how they operate but it has sparked an interest. I did learn a lot while researching the build, simply because I had a reason to finally pursue the knowledge as there was an applicable function for it. Now I have an elementary grasp of how these components work and interact with one another and with that basis I would like to pursue a deeper understanding so as to potentially design one on my own. That day is a ways off but one cannot reach the end if they simply do not start. Now the question is.... what amp should I build next LOL

The most surprising thing of all is that other than the silly oversight on resistors, everything I did worked  Given that my soldering skill gives most people nightmares I would have to say that patience, practice and perseverance have led me to a successful build. The best part is, I am still alive  Your many warnings instilled in me a sense of fear I may have otherwise not had, although to be fair I think every piece of literature ever written on the subject has plastered all over it "WARNING YOU WILL DIE" somewhere or other. The personal connection made it sink in.


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## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

Dumble ODS clone next. 😀


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## Always12AM (Sep 2, 2018)

It looks awesome and sounds great! According to the guy who’s produced for Isbell, Stapleton, Sturgill Simpson, Colter Wall and John Prine to name a few swears by a champ and suggests that tweed amps never really need to go past 3 or 4 on the volume for recording.

Great work Mark!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Sneaky said:


> Dumble ODS clone next. 😀


I am not sure if "F%$k You" or "F%$k Yeah" would be the appropriate response, but now that the idea is there..... 🤣 (kidding of course) 










I mean, why not right 
Almost the same thing.....




Always12AM said:


> It looks awesome and sounds great! According to the guy who’s produced for Isbell, Stapleton, Sturgill Simpson, Colter Wall and John Prine to name a few swears by a champ and suggests that tweed amps never really need to go past 3 or 4 on the volume for recording.
> 
> Great work Mark!


I like it best clean, I am not gonna lie. I really like the Lo input. That is mostly my realm. I find it really warm and there is some funky magik going on that has some sweet overtone something something I don't know how to describe. Almost like a harmonic dissonance, but I don't know if that terminology lines up.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Mark Brown said:


> Your many warnings instilled in me a sense of fear I may have otherwise not had...


I'm pleased that I was able to contribute in some small way and even more pleased that you are alive to write this to me.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Sound Clips are not really my forte as playing for me is just noodles and it takes a while to get into it. Apparently recording myself ruins the vibe lol

Anyhow, here we are around 60% of max with SM57 2 inch off centre and about 4 back from the 15w powerhouse of a danelectro 8"

I did have to throw the DanEcho on there. I cannot stand playing dry apparently. 


__
https://soundcloud.com/mark-brown-171515057%2Fturned-up-a-bit


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

You want a nice clean, go look at a Hiwatt 50 or 100 watter  Not as house friendly as a Champ, build yourself a good attenuator  And a Rat, a Rat goes with any of the above.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

To be honest, I don't much have a need of another amp. The traynor YCV50 really does everything I want it to and sounds the way I want it to. But needs have nothing to do with any of this now do they!

I love the clean channel on a Bogner Shiva, so maybe I need to work my way up to that, or just delete the second channel altogether and build a reverb tank in there instead....... this is going to get dangerous.


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)




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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Sounds great to me.

Congratulations.


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## JTM45BB (11 mo ago)

Sounds great! Congratulations, this may be the small kick in the ass I need to at least get the parts assembled for a build of my own by the new year at least.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

JTM45BB said:


> Sounds great! Congratulations, this may be the small kick in the ass I need to at least get the parts assembled for a build of my own by the new year at least.


You can do it, it is so "simple" I could even help. I was rather intimidated when I thought it was a good idea, luckily I am too stupid to know better so I forged ahead. If you have any questions, not that I am the most knowledgeable man in the room, I will offer any and all help I can


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## Frenchy (Mar 23, 2011)

Congrats on the build !!!

You'll be fixing them soon ! Its addictive...


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Frenchy said:


> Congrats !!!
> 
> You'll be fixing them soon !


As long as I don't end up with a house full, I will be ok


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## Frenchy (Mar 23, 2011)

Mark Brown said:


> As long as I don't end up with a house full, I will be ok


How the hell do you think I got started ...lol

welcome to the dark side !!! 😈


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

LOL

Dude, I am so happy you say that. Mostly because it is funny but also because it makes me glad to know that the offensive ribbing I send you way is taken how it is intended, as good natured humor.


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## Frenchy (Mar 23, 2011)

All good ! Love having fun !

Your a good sort, it shows in your writing.

Plus I know I have a problem ! Hell , i`m fucking married !!!


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## JTM45BB (11 mo ago)

Mark Brown said:


> You can do it, it is so "simple" I could even help. I was rather intimidated when I thought it was a good idea, luckily I am too stupid to know better so I forged ahead. If you have any questions, not that I am the most knowledgeable man in the room, I will offer any and all help I can


Thank you that’s very kind of you, I’ll definitely remember your offer since it’s a project I’ve been thinking on for a while, even though it’s probably something I shouldn’t think of attempting with my level of knowledge/ experience.

Even though you say your not the most knowledgeable on the subject you still have a great sounding amp at the end of the day, so your offer again is very much appreciated!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

JTM45BB said:


> Thank you that’s very kind of you, I’ll definitely remember your offer since it’s a project I’ve been thinking on for a while, even though it’s probably something I shouldn’t think of attempting with my level of knowledge/ experience.
> 
> Even though you say your not the most knowledgeable on the subject you still have a great sounding amp at the end of the day, so your offer again is very much appreciated!


Listen man, I'm gonna tell ya, you can do it. When I started, I didn't know the bloody difference between a capacitor and a resistor. Ok, I did, but I had only learned it about 2 week prior. I had never held a bloody tube in my hand or put one in a socket. My non 120v AC electrical knowledge was, how shall we say, about zero. I owned a 20 dollar soldering iron and a strong will to learn. 

I did upgrade the iron, but everything else was learned along the way. I had wanted to learn for a long time, but without a practical application for the knowledge, every time I set off to understand what plate voltage is, or a cathode, the words went in one ear and out the other because I had no application for them. It is like trying to learn french in elementary school, there was just no application for the knowledge. 

You can do it! Promise. The key is wanting to and then taking that first step. You might already be familiar with it, but if not, take a look around this site






Amp Stuff


RobRobinette Amplifier Info



robrobinette.com





If you are anything like me, you will open and close it about 20 times before your brain will let you actually sit there and absorb anything from it, but it is an excellent resource and everything and more that you will need to know (much more in fact) to build a 5f1 or any number of other interesting amplifiers.


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## seapotato (10 mo ago)

This seems like the kind of thing I should try. 

Curious, do you have a ballpark of what you have into it parts wise?

I had a browse at the amp building kits available a while back and some of them cost more than the amps they're copying...

I used to have an old fender Princeton. Sold it 10-15 years ago and now I look at replacing it and then spend an hour quietly weeping when I see what they're selling for now. 🤣


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

All told I would be in around 400 I think, PT, OT and Tubes were the money shots. As for the odds and sods, they aren't too bad. Other than the power caps I have enough left over this and that's I could send your way and all you would need is the tube sockets, OT, PT and 3 power caps. 

Power was 135, the output was a donation, but they run around 60 and the tubes are ballpark 35 a pop. 

I also donated my 4Ohm Danelectro speaker so that didn't cost me anything either and I built the chassis, but from what you have said so would you 

Now if we are talking tools and wasted money, I am probably in over a grand 🤣


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## seapotato (10 mo ago)

Cool. I can handle those sorta numbers. 

When I'm not in the middle of rebuilding a sundeck I'll get more serious about reading up on this. 

Particularly the sites that dumb it down for the boneheads like me who pound screws in with the wrong kind of hammer sometimes.🤪


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

seapotato said:


> Cool. I can handle those sorta numbers.
> 
> When I'm not in the middle of rebuilding a sundeck I'll get more serious about reading up on this.
> 
> Particularly the sites that dumb it down for the boneheads like me who pound screws in with the wrong kind of hammer sometimes.🤪


You know you aren't that dumb man, they hold better with the head down.

I have seen what you make with your hands, if you don't want to get deep into the learning the whole process is basically paint by numbers anyhow. Anything I can do... you can do too!


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## seapotato (10 mo ago)

Haha, I took step one just now, I downloaded the stewmac princeton instructions. 

Step 2 might be next year  

I can't imagine stewmac sell many when the kit is 1500 usd... that'd buy a pretty nice amp without the diy fuckup potential. 


Where'd you order all the little bits and pieces from? 

Getting that parts list all sorted into a checkout cart on some online shop sounds like a good job for a night shift...


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

seapotato said:


> Haha, I took step one just now, I downloaded the stewmac princeton instructions.
> 
> Step 2 might be next year
> 
> ...


Next Gen for the bits and bobs and take a look at Lee's Electronics in Vancouver for tubes


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