# Bridge repair Yamaki Acoustic - advice?



## Shooting Star (Jan 18, 2010)

The bridge on my brother-in-law's Yamaki acoustic has been pulled up (tilted forward) about 1/8" by what I believe is over-tightening the strings. The top wood has been torn by the bridge while the glue between the bridge and top wood has remained intact as far as I can tell. The top appears to be cedar and may be laminated since some of the torn wood showing in the gap appears to have it's grain oriented ninety degrees to the top grain. (Is there any way to tell if the top is laminated for sure?) The front of the bridge is still attached and flush with the top wood. It looks like the top has been slightly pulled into a slight hump behind the bridge as well.

I have volunteered to try to repair the bridge. I would like to do this without removing the bridge if possible. My idea is to simply inject as much glue as I can into the gap with a hypodermic needle, and firmly clamp it back down. My fear is it won't go back down flush given the torn wood fibres that are evident in the gap. I would only try this if, during a "dry run" I could clamp the bridge down without glue and it would go back in place with no gaps.

Does this seem like a reasonable approach? If I can get the bridge glued back down flush will it stand up to string tension? If I can't get the bridge to go down flush in a dry run, could I try scraping out as much of the torn top-wood as possible and then glueing it?

I acknowledge this repair may leave the bridge a bit too high. I am hoping to compensate for this by lowering the saddle if necessary.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kurt in Edmonton


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## kayakerca (Mar 2, 2010)

Shooting Star said:


> The bridge on my brother-in-law's Yamaki acoustic has been pulled up (tilted forward) about 1/8" . . .
> Thanks,
> Kurt in Edmonton


I have a couple Yamaki guitars that have had humping behind the bridge. You can definitely get the top back to flat with a "JLD Bridge Doctor" kit. Injecting glue into the crack will not give the top the strength to hold the bridge flat as the crack is a result of the issue(s) that caused the top to hump behind the bridge, not the issue itself. More likely the problem bracing structure/state, fatigue or humidifcation (or lack there of) over the years that has caused the problems, not overtightening of the strings. Many Yamaki's note that they are solid tops with an "S" as part of the model number (usuaslly locating inside the body cavity where the neck joins the body). Otherwise, you should be able to tell it the top is solid of laminated by carefully examining the edge of the wood around the sound hole. Personally, fixing cracks in a top is something I would leave to an experienced luthier for fear of wrecking the guitar. But, that would probably cost more that the guitar is worth. I have a Yamaki AY376S (S denoting solid top) where the top had numerous cracks when I got it. I put in the JLD Bridge Doctor kit and it plays just great. Doesn't look pretty, but plays great.

Anyway, just some thoughts.

Take Care,

Jim. . .


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## Shooting Star (Jan 18, 2010)

kayakerca said:


> .... Personally, fixing cracks in a top is something I would leave to an experienced luthier for fear of wrecking the guitar. But, that would probably cost more that the guitar is worth. I have a Yamaki AY376S (S denoting solid top) where the top had numerous cracks when I got it. I put in the JLD Bridge Doctor kit and it plays just great. Doesn't look pretty, but plays great......


Thanks for your thoughts Jim.

He did indeed get a quote of about $200.00 to do the repair. He didn't want to spend that much money, I guess, and figured maybe I could do it since I have some experience. However, my experience is only with setups and fret levelling. I've also made a few nuts and saddles in the past. I've never tried such a touchy repair before. I agreed to give it a go provided he paid for any materials and tools I would need. He gets the brother-in-law rate for labour (FREE). I made it clear that there was no guarantees if I did the work and that he would have to live with the result. I have already ordered some sound hole clamps and the bridge-clamping caul from Stewart MacDonald (just yesterday). *I wish I had read your post first!* I have the Stewmac catalogue and just never noticed that Bridge Doctor in there. I see now I might be able to try the glueing as I proposed and then install the bridge doctor as well. I'm betting that should flatten the top and that it might hold the bridge down enough too, provided I don't leave any gaps. Now, if I order the "doctor", I'll have to pay more shipping (or I guess he will, ha ha).

The braces all seem to be still attached and the bridge plate appears to be OK as well. The plate is rather large and is shaped like a diamond to fit between the braces. It extends quite far behind the string holes in the direction opposite the saddle (at least 2") and so should provide good thickness for the repair.

I'm not too worried about the aesthetics since someone put an ugly 3" X 6" beer advertising sticker on the beautiful rosewood back. Frankly, he doesn't know much about guitars anyways and he doesn't even know how to play one as far as I know. He got the guitar many years ago from someone else and wants it made playable for some reason. He is under the impession it has more value than it really does. At least if I do it, I'll get some free tools out of the deal.

Oh yeah, about the model. It's a model AY335 with no "s". The number is stamped in red ink on a paper label located in the usual place directly below the soundhole. The headstock has 
"Yamaki Deluxe" in gold script (decal not inlay). The headstock is veneered in what looks to be rosewood which is the same as the back and sides. The neck appears to be three pieces in mahogany but the finish is quite dark so it's hard to confirm the wood for sure.

I think I'll give it a try unless I hear some dire warnings from any forum members in the next day or two. I would appreciate any comments, pro or con from anyone.

Kurt in Edmonton


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## Guest (Jul 28, 2010)

I had the same problem with two of mine. what I did was
remove the bridge (steam or heat gun (through a damp cloth)).
then sand it down accordingly.


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## Shooting Star (Jan 18, 2010)

Hi Laristotle
I'm struggling with _remove the bridge VS not remove the bridge_ for this repair. Something tells me maybe I should remove it to do it properly. I'm afraid of how to "backfill" the pieces of top wood that will surely come off with the bridge. I suppose I could smooth out the "hole" that is sure to occur in the top wood under the bridge and fill it in with some thin cedar veneer that I could make myself from a cedar board. I would then sand the "fill" down to match the existing surrounding top and re-glue the bridge to it. I might have to re-shape the underside of the bridge to match the curvature of the top with it's existing hump. My first inclination is to avoid all this and just inject glue under the bridge which is tilted forward but still attached at the front (sound hole) edge.

I'm not intimidated by removing the bridge, just trying to avoid it to save time and effort if I can.

Any other thoughts?

Kurt in Edmonton


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## Shooting Star (Jan 18, 2010)

Just looking for last minute ideas or warnings before I begin the surgery.

Kurt


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## kayakerca (Mar 2, 2010)

So. . . How did it go?


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## Shooting Star (Jan 18, 2010)

kayakerca said:


> So. . . How did it go?


Hi Jim, and thanks for checking back. I decide (based on your advice and others, to remove the bridge and do it properly). I haven't actually started yet. Still waiting for clamps and cauls from Stewmac. After I re-glue the bridge, I'll see how it plays, actions, etc. If I can set it up by just lowering the saddle, good. If not, then I'm going to order the bridge doctor as you suggested to bring down the belly in the top. If you are interested, and want to PM me, we can figure out a way I could send you some pics I took of the damage.

Kurt


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## rogermccuaig2 (6 mo ago)

I have a Yamaki AY337. I bought it in Jonquire, Qc. around 1969-70. I don't really remember exactly! I had the same problem when it was about 10 - 15 years old. I brought it to a Luthier (a very good one) and he repaired it. He removed the old bridge and installed a new one that was much longer. It has been playing fine ever since. The top has a slight bulge out around the bridge but is quite stable over the years. He suggested that I should use Light gauge strings. By the way, I had it appraised by a pro about 25 years ago and he said it was worth at least $800.


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## Acoustic Tom (Apr 6, 2020)

If your in no big hurry, I suggest buying some cheaper type guitars to practice on. You can usually find 30-50 dollar cheap guitars with the same problem. Having the proper tools is super important however gaining the hands on experience is priceless. Good luck with the repair and keep us posted.


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