# Anyone making their own G-10 style fiberglass board?



## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

I was trying to source some G-10 material and noticed I couldn't really find anything that made sense to me. Ordering pre drilled turret board material is an option, but I don't like that option. I want blanks.

Then I got to thinking. Thinking is dangerous in my hands.

From what I can tell, it is just fiberglass mat and resin. So, if a guy were to get some 6 oz mat, lay it up and vacuum it tight under some glass plates, I think you could make this stuff dirt cheap. Plus, it would lend itself to my whole mantra of "if I can I should". I take the most joy from the doing of things, even if those things might not make a lot of sense to logical people. 

I can order it from The TubeDepot, I think it is about a dollar a foot. Plus shipping, I think 40 inches was just about 70 dollars. That's crazy. 9 sqft of mat is about 20 dollars and enough mepk and resin to lay up that much material would probably be 30 dollars. Throw some dye in there and voila, you have endless boards for next to no money. 

That should be enough material to make around 100" at a 3" width at 0.375 inches. These numbers are yet to be tested, I am just guessing.

Anyhow, anyone have any experience doing laminated layups?? I have done a lot of mould type stuff and wire cage from layups but never laminated and pressure set material. 

Help me make poor life decisions.


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## jimmythegeek (Apr 17, 2012)

I have virtually no experience with any of this BUT as a bike geek I know that We Are One wheels in Kamloops is one of the only places in Canada that does their own carbon fibre layups. The materials are different but the concept might be similar? They’re a big deal now but they share your “because we can” ethos. It might be worth reaching out:









Home | We Are One Composites







www.weareonecomposites.com


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

Buy the blank sheets and look professional...any skimp will stand out later down the line....avoid the curing stink and mess.

Attach a link to the store bought sheets for sale please


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

jimmythegeek said:


> I have virtually no experience with any of this BUT as a bike geek I know that We Are One wheels in Kamloops is one of the only places in Canada that does their own carbon fibre layups. The materials are different but the concept might be similar? They’re a big deal now but they share your “because we can” ethos. It might be worth reaching out:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for that!

The principal i do anything on is to do as much of something as I can with my own hands, it might not be economical, practical, logical, simple.... you get the idea, but is the fun. Things are more interesting of you involve yourself in them as much as possible. No one in their right mind would go through all the hassle to save 8 dollars, that's just crazy. 

I'll have a look at what they are into.

Fundamentally it should be a rather straightforward process to make flat, rigid fiberboard. Glass plates and clamps would probably suffice, or aluminum plates. You can get one hell of a clamping force there 


Alan Small said:


> Buy the blank sheets and look professional...any skimp will stand out later down the line....avoid the curing stink and mess.
> 
> Attach a link to the store bought sheets for sale please


Where do you think the first guy got sheets, he had to make them 



https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/turret-board-blank-no-holes-black-g-10-11-78-x-7-116



Much cheaper...... but still no fun.

One has to respect the insanity aspect here that is my person. Like I said, it's simply because I can... or I should say maybe can


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## Okay Player (May 24, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> Thanks for that!
> 
> The principal i do anything on is to do as much of something as I can with my own hands, it might not be economical, practical, logical, simple.... you get the idea, but is the fun. Things are more interesting of you involve yourself in them as much as possible. No one in their right mind would go through all the hassle to save 8 dollars, that's just crazy.
> 
> ...


Why G-10?

I don't care, but it seems like you might be conflating G-10 with the myriad of other fiberglasses.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

i've seen it made, you need a vacuum and the vacuum bag or it might be a pressure pot and some heat. If you were doing it every day or if you have those supplies on hand it would make sense. Just buy what you need and save some money


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Okay Player said:


> Why G-10?
> 
> I don't care, but it seems like you might be conflating G-10 with the myriad of other fiberglasses.


Its the reference people are familiar with. It's just fiberglass sheet really. Call it what you will.

It looks stupid easy, which means it is slightly more difficult that I assume, but achievable!


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## Okay Player (May 24, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> Its the reference people are familiar with. It's just fiberglass sheet really. Call it what you will.
> 
> It looks stupid easy, which means it is slightly more difficult that I assume, but achievable!


They serve different purposes though, amigo. G10, carbon fiber and straight up fiberglass have different properties. Which is why I asked why G-10? I'm not trying to be difficult, but what you're trying to do will be the best indicator of what you should be doing.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Don't forget to include insulation quality:





PCB Insulation Guide - Candor Industries


Wondering how to insulate your PCB? Read our comprehensive guide on PCB insulation and how to easily do it now. Read our guide now




www.candorind.com


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

If we want to get all particular about it, Garolite which is the trade name for g10 specified fiberglass and resin, is probably not something I will in fact be able to make on my own. I do not have the machining required. That being what it is, making a close enough laminated composite sheet should be.

G10 isn't a carbon fiber composite. It is fiberglass. I could make carbon fiber boards, but that would be crazy


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## Okay Player (May 24, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> If we want to get all particular about it, Garolite which is the trade name for g10 specified fiberglass and resin, is probably not something I will in fact be able to make on my own. I do not have the machining required. That being what it is, making a close enough laminated composite sheet should be.
> 
> G10 isn't a carbon fiber composite. It is fiberglass. I could make carbon fiber boards, but that would be crazy


I'm aware. I've done small amounts of work with many types of fiberglass, but I still don't be know what you're trying to build which will best determine what you should be doing/using.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Okay Player said:


> I'm aware. I've done small amounts of work with many types of fiberglass, but I still don't be know what you're trying to build which will best determine what you should be doing/using.


You're right, sorry. I want to produce 3mm thick sheets, cross laminated with fiber cloth to make turret boards out of.

I fully respect the fact that it's stupid and unreasonable but let's forget all about that and focus on the "has anyone done it" part 

I do not have the equipment to meet a mil spec FR4 sheet, let's get that right out of the way, but I think there is a lot of wiggle room where a person could accomplish what it is they want to.

Remember, no logic is involved within this thread. Possibilities and procedures only


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## WCGill (Mar 27, 2009)

Why Mark, why? 



https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/turret-board-blank-189-holes-10-18-x-2-58


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## Okay Player (May 24, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> You're right, sorry. I want to produce 3mm thick sheets, cross laminated with fiber cloth to make turret boards out of.
> 
> I fully respect the fact that it's stupid and unreasonable but let's forget all about that and focus on the "has anyone done it" part
> 
> ...


It appears @WCGill has you covered.

That being said, always remember that "mil spec" has more to do with cost than it does quality, lol.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

WCGill said:


> Why Mark, why?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/turret-board-blank-189-holes-10-18-x-2-58


I dont know if you were paying attention my friend, but it is because I'm a moron 

I just like to mess about with stuff. I have quite a little experience with glassing and thought what the hell, it might be fun to try.

What's the worst that could happen, im out 10 dollars for half a yard of cloth, I already have the resin and hardener. Of course, one would have to spend the 10 dollars or so to procure some tint so that the flaming pile of garbage im destined to create at least looks spiffy


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

These may be handy for the experimenter: octal break-out board...would there be a market for it?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

I would buy it... so you at least have those of unsound mind on-board!


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Mark Brown said:


> I would buy it... so you at least have those of unsound mind on-board!


It was originally a relay socket but octal tubes work too...google "octal relay socket" if you want more info?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

I would like to take this opportunity to point out I never asked *SHOULD I. *Even i know I shouldn't


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## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

seeing that you only need 3-4" wide by 12" 
and only 1 side has to look flat and shiny 

use a plastic tray and a cheap 3" roller ... 
(you can cut it down to fit the tray , just run it across duct tape to remove the loose fuzz) 
then precut the glass strips to fit the tray

then there's no need to vacuum it 
when cured , simply flex the tray to pop the board out .


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

oldjoat said:


> seeing that you only need 3-4" wide by 12"
> and only 1 side has to look flat and shiny
> 
> use a plastic tray and a cheap 3" roller ...
> ...


See, now we're talking. Forget feasible I just want some advice 

I figure I was gonna get aluminum plate, some glass to match, wax the glass for a mold remover, laminate some mat and clamp it. If I take some 3mm spacers and plunk them between the clamp plates, laminate over it by probably 0.5mm or even 1mm then it might maybe compress out enough to work.

As for the layup I believe that is the best way. It is mostly the same as the techniques for doing layers on wire frame.


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## Alan Small (Dec 30, 2019)

Okay Player said:


> Why G-10?
> 
> I don't care, but it seems like you might be conflating G-10 with the myriad of other fiberglasses.


I had to look up conflating


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Alan Small said:


> I had to look up conflating


You can learn new words and foolish ideas. What more could you ask for!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

oldjoat said:


> use a plastic tray and a cheap 3" roller ...


I even have the fancy hard rubber hand roller. Just gotta acetone the hell out of it when you are done. So many tools have met their maker in my careless hands.

I'm actually rather stoked for trying this. It should be very simple. I will still apply pressure through clamping. I think it will make for a more uniform and rigid finished product. Plus if one were to get rather good at it, you could stylize them in colour.

Next will be silk screening.
.... ill be back for more advice.


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## elburnando (11 mo ago)

Ive made g10, micarta and carbon fiber. For a small amount, just buy it. Its a PITA to get perfect with no voids. You'll need to make a press, and it helps to do under vacuum but it isn't totally necessary. Its actually supposed to be done under heat, but most guys are substituting vacuum for that with the same result(small scale anyways). Itll work okay with the right resin, and no heat or vacuum. Coat each sheet individually, stack them, press them and wait.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Where were you this morning @elburnando when people just thought i was crazy 

I was gonna use clamps, but I could plop it under the 30tonne, what might you suggest?

Not trying to save money really. I can't compete with the factories pumping the stuff out, I just like to get my hands dirty playing with things.


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## elburnando (11 mo ago)

30 tonne might be way too much, and squeeze out too much resin. I used 2 steel plates, 3/16" thick and C clamps. The important part is to not trap any air. The easiest way to do that is to tighten it from one corner outward. If you can vacuum bag it before pressing it it'll work better though.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Perfect!

So really just a standard crossed layup and then cured under pressure and a vacuum. That i can do.

Mind if I ask what you were making it for?


elburnando said:


> 30 tonne might be way too much, and squeeze out too much resin. I used 2 steel plates, 3/16" thick and C clamps. The important part is to not trap any air. The easiest way to do that is to tighten it from one corner outward. If you can vacuum bag it before pressing it it'll work better though.


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## elburnando (11 mo ago)

Mark Brown said:


> Perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Yeah, i used to make knives and straight razors. That was good handle material. At the time, early 00's, it was hard to find a supplier in Canada so it was easier to just make it.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

elburnando said:


> Yeah, i used to make knives and straight razors. That was good handle material. At the time, early 00's, it was hard to find a supplier in Canada so it was easier to just make it.


Thanks man. I get that it wasn't relevant and I didn't need to know but curiosity got the better of me.


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## elburnando (11 mo ago)

Mark Brown said:


> Thanks man. I get that it wasn't relevant and I didn't need to know but curiosity got the better of me.


No problem! I keep meaning to get back into making things again. Maybe guitars and furniture next.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Furniture is a killing!

You can convince city folk that your post and dowel bed frame made out of 2x4 and 6x6 cedar fence post is rustic and charge em through the nose 🤣

Ask me how I know!

....I built it because then the bed wouldn't squeak. Can't squeak if there is no metal or fasteners


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Wax up a cookie sheet...3 layers of tight weave. Might as well do 2 at a time, preferably in the warmer months...outdoors. Viola....


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

loudtubeamps said:


> Wax up a cookie sheet...3 layers of tight weave. Might as well do 2 at a time, preferably in the warmer months...outdoors. Viola....
> View attachment 457106
> 
> View attachment 457107
> ...


My man!
I think I might be in love.

I knew you were out there 

I'm looking for a thicker end product, but the fact that you did exactly that give me hope. At least I know im not alone!


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Mark Brown said:


> My man!
> I think I might be in love.
> 
> I knew you were out there
> ...


Add an additional layer of thicker roving between the fine weave or just add a couple more layers of fine to achieve desired thickness.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

loudtubeamps said:


> Add an additional layer of thicker roving between the fine weave or just add a couple more layers of fine to achieve desired thickness.


Beautiful.

Thank you for sharing and even more so for confirming that I am only as crazy as I thought I might be but not any more.

Might I ask if you don't mind, what made you think to make it yourself? I presume the reduced cost was a factor, but anything else?


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Forget the whole thing and use the savings to buy some weed.


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## 2N1305 (Nov 2, 2009)

Okay Player said:


> They serve different purposes though, amigo. G10, carbon fiber and straight up fiberglass have different properties. Which is why I asked why G-10? I'm not trying to be difficult, but what you're trying to do will be the best indicator of what you should be doing.


I think it's because he doesn't know the varieties of fiberglass boards. In fact, the first fender boards were probably not fiberglass, but some paper composite board, like CEM, I beileive?

In any case he just wants a fiberglass material.

Mark Brown, there are more options if you investigate the types of composite boards available, historically. Here is but one article describing coarsely what offerings exist(ed) in the elctronics industry: PCB Materials | Materials for Base of Printed Circuit Board 

If you manage to construct something of value that's usable, then you will be a very happy man. Possibly richer, in time.


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## elburnando (11 mo ago)

Mark Brown said:


> Furniture is a killing!
> 
> You can convince city folk that your post and dowel bed frame made out of 2x4 and 6x6 cedar fence post is rustic and charge em through the nose 🤣
> 
> ...


Call it "Vegan Living Concepts" and the money will roll right in.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Fuggg you guys, works like a charm 










That board right there took 10 minutes of cutting cloth (because all I had were scissors) 45mil of resin or or a dollar if you prefer, 6" x 39" of cloth and 15 drops of mepk. 

So all in im probably 15 min and under 4 dollars of product.

Take that unbelievers 

So the bad.... 8 cross stacked layers isn't enough, it will likely be 16 to hit the thickness I want. Thay will increase my cost to about the same as retail so there isn't a lot to save but being able to make them at a whim and have them always available makes it worth it.

Looking forward to prototype 2.0


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

I should add that slice going through it is a cut line. It didn't look like that before I molested it!


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## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

cured glass always fragments as you cut thru the fibers...
try cutting when it is not fully cured ( semi flexible ) 
less fraying.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

oldjoat said:


> cured glass always fragments as you cut thru the fibers...
> try cutting when it is not fully cured ( semi flexible )
> less fraying.


Oh, that wasn't even set yet man. Forget cured LOL
You really can't cut through the shit with a pair of barber shears...... or at least I would hope not 

I got impatient as it is a prototype so I took it out from under the heat press and thought to take a look. It still bubbles when you flex it so I know the inner layers are wet. I did it to see if it was a feasible plan. It was!

I didn't have any mould release at home, so I had to use ceramic car coating, that shit works like a charm!

I have a 15 layer one setting up under heat and pressure right now, so we will see how that does. I told myself I would leave that one over night but I have my doubts. 

The one I did make is curing more now and getting very stiff, being cross orientated with the mat I suspect when it hardens it will be silly solid. It was a good depth for using eyelets, but not enough for turrets. 

First round was too much pressure too, it oozed out a little too much of the resin so this time around I dialed it back a bit, plus I turned the heat down on the press. I might try one some day at around 500F just to see what happens, but I haven't gotten that brave yet.

If I do get crazy enough to get crazy about this, I will track down some high temp resin but again, I think that would be overkill. These boards don't need to withstand high heat, just momentary ignition and that is not a concern in the least.


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## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

resin re-cures at certain set temps 

room temp cure goes plastic at a higher temp and sets up again.

take it and heat it higher and it goes plastic again then sets again .....

plenty of home built composite aircraft are taken down south and parked on a tarmac in the hot sun ... 
the owners come out the next day with the wings drooping


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## Hammerhands (Dec 19, 2016)

FR-4/G-10 Glass-Cloth Reinforced Epoxy

I found a company that sold sheets of it. Oddly it is used for, among other things, motor mounts on ships. It comes in all sorts of different thicknesses.

You need to find a company that sells industrial plastics. There's a place actually called Industrial Plastics & Paint in Nanaimo, I'll bet you that you can get it there, and they do CNC cutting.

I got a guy who was cutting some tiles to cut the sheets into strips.

It's pretty awful stuff, I really should have been wearing a mask, even though we were outside. I think it took a few years off. If I ever work with it again, drill it, I will be sure to have a mask on.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Hammerhands said:


> FR-4/G-10 Glass-Cloth Reinforced Epoxy
> 
> I found a company that sold sheets of it. Oddly it is used for, among other things, motor mounts on ships. It comes in all sorts of different thicknesses.
> 
> ...












It's my favorite store


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

For anyone that is still interested, round two was a complete success. Overnight it hardened up and is rock solid. It still isn't quite as thick as I would like, I really should have taken @loudtubeamps advice and put some roving cloth in the middle, that or I am going to need something closer to 20-24 ply. I also think perhaps I used slightly less resin than I could. 

All things considered it was a success though. I'll give it a trim and drill it out tonight and see what comes of that but I suspect to have a decent amount of success. It isn't quite the perfect process yet but it is getting very close and seeing as this is my second attempt and I have a "usable" product, well, if all discovery came so cheap the world would be a better place.

I'll get some pictures up once I get it trimmed out and we can see how it works. Then I suppose I am going to have to take the torch to it to see how well it hopefully doesn't burn


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Re cutting.
Best method.
I use a heavy duty utility blade. 
Score a few times and snap ...like cutting drywall.
Clean up edges with file or sandpaper. Mind the dust😷
Second option ,quality pair of metal shears...(tin snips) works well.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

loudtubeamps said:


> Re cutting.
> Best method.
> I use a heavy duty utility blade.
> Score a few times and snap ...like cutting drywall.
> ...


It is much too thick for either of those options. I just mask up and cut it on the table saw.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Nailed it!

Prototype 2.0 is a success! Finished thickness is 3.128mm (on the one side) and only 2.44mm on the other side. I neglected to account for the angle of the clamp, so ill accommodate that on production model number one. I think prototype 3.0 is gonna wait until tomorrow night.










I got pretty darn good saturation on the sheets. It isnt perfect but I'm getting there.

You can see from bottom left to top right there is less saturation in the top layer. I won't be happy until it all looks like the bottom left.










Surface turned out really nice where it was saturated however!










So close!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

CONGRATS! Once again, your determination pays off. 
Much admiration from me (and from many others, I suspect)


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Oh and @greco seeing as I know how you feel about it all, I put the blow torch on it for 5 seconds mid sheet and nothing caught on fire so I am gonna go ahead and say it could handle a cap blowing off just fine 

To be fair it was only a propane torch, not acetylene, but I think we are gonna call it safe anyhow!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Mark Brown said:


> Oh and @greco seeing as I know how you feel about it all


Compared to some of your other adventures, I'm feeling VERY good about this one. 
Personally, I was never concerned about it handling the temperatures generated by components or caps "blowing".
Admittedly, I know next to nothing about fibreglass beyond what I have learned from this thread.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

greco said:


> Compared to some of your other adventures, I'm feeling VERY good about this one.
> Personally, I was never concerned about it handling the temperatures generated by components or caps "blowing".
> Admittedly, I know next to nothing about fibreglass beyond what I have learned from this thread.


It is pretty much a wonder material, as long as you don't mind the toxic and carcinogenic properties it exhibits towards humans 

A standard fiberglass (so basically this) has excellent electrical insulation properties, excellent tensile strength, resists moisture and heat. It can be moulded into so many fantastical things.

I have done a lot of wire framing and moulds with fiberglass, but never tried to build a panel. The whole thread was probably moot if we are being honest, it wasn't really going to be a challenge, I was just looking for any advice I could garner before I leapt.

Someday I would like to build a kayak but that is a lot of commitment and I am rather lazy. I like projects I can do from the comfort of my ass.

Oh, and because nothing is complete without completion...










It takes turrets like a champ, oddly enough.... for a champ


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Wicked.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Knytex X-Mat for the win.

It is some crazy 26.5 Oz double bias fabric that I found. 4 Pieces of that stuff and 2 Oz of resin and we are in business. The top isn't as sexy as the 6 oz mat but if this works out, I'll just put a mat on top and bottom. Or just stop being completely vain and accept that it is "different" not "worse"

Pre-pressure and dry it compressed under the calipers at 3.62mm, i'll have to wait and see what I get when it comes out tomorrow morning for the finished. 

Either way, it sure beats laminating 16 pieces.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

So that stuff is fantastic!

4 layers, the end product is from 2.77mm to 3.02, at least where my calipers can reach which admittedly is only about 70% of the board but seeing as the gradient follows to clamp angle, I would say it isnt much different.

So in 3 prototypes I think I have perfected (close enough) a process.

Here is the untrimmed board using the Kyntex material.










Admittedly, the top surface is not as luxurious but I dont really think it is worth the cost/time/effort to mount mat to it simply for vanity sake. Or is it? Next time I suppose.

The best part about this, it is only 4 pieces so 32sq inches. 128 sq inches all told. The material is sold at 50" and a running yard for 18.99 plus tax. Tax in.... $21.27

$21.27/1800 = 1.18 cents per sq inch

128*1.18 = $1.51 in cloth per board.

Resin costs $0.68/30ml (Oz) and I used two so $1.36

Even with the tint colour, im at 3 dollars for a 3.5" x 8" board.

Take that 79 Cents per inch American plus shipping 

So if anyone needs some really inexpensive turret board blanks, im your guy!

I'm gonna sand the top on this one and brush a layer of tinted resin on it and see if I cant get that sexy glass finish. I have my doubts on that but for vanity sake I will try.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Paul Running said:


> These may be handy for the experimenter: octal break-out board...would there be a market for it?
> 
> View attachment 456950



Isn't that what they use for octal relays in industrial power switching applications?


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## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

Mark Brown said:


> I'm gonna sand the top on this one and brush a layer of tinted resin on it and see if I cant get that sexy glass finish.


brush it on , then put a layer of saran wrap ( or plastic ) over it and squeegee out and air bubbles , let it cure 

then remove the plastic film ..... smooth final finish.

test a piece of the plastic to make sure it isn't affected by the resin first.


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## diyfabtone (Mar 9, 2016)

When can I place my order?


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

diyfabtone said:


> When can I place my order?


Well we had a recent run of factory seconds come through that could easily be up for grabs at a deep discount. LOL

Now, if you aren't being completely sarcastic, I could gladly ship you off the samples from this batch and make you some if what you see is something you like.

Shipping in a flat pack legal sized would be I think about 4 dollars for double layered 8x11 so... cheap!


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## diyfabtone (Mar 9, 2016)

Yeah, I was being serious and sarcastic at the same time - I'd love to try out your boards!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

diyfabtone said:


> Yeah, I was being serious and sarcastic at the same time - I'd love to try out your boards!


I kinda figured... but wasn't sure LOL

Next time I mix I'll make one for ya if you want, they aren't as sexy as the ones you get from factory, but they are completely functional. Plus, they are 3 dollars!

Shit, it isnt like eyelet fiber board (cardborad) is the sexiest thing going either.


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## diyfabtone (Mar 9, 2016)

I use the fiber board material from London Power but thicker material is less resonant so would love to try it, plus gives me the motivation to try Turrets again.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Wee bit of technical difficulty on the process, but close.

Too thick on the top coat and my press sheet got a little gibbled or I didn't utilize enough pressure. I also didn't acetone wash the surface because it was a waxed resin and it was only about 20 hours but I think the heat setting blows that theory out the window. It stuck ok, but I'm not stoked.









Vanity be dammed, next time I'm not doing this again. I will do a lay up with the 6oz on top and bottom tomorrow and see how that goes.

Curiosity is getting expensive lol


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