# 1x12 Cabinet; how small can you go?



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

I looking to build (have all the bits I need)







the smallest 1x12 cabinet that I can and still have it not sound like a speaker in bucket. What have you folks tried? I tend to like open back but am game to make something that is convertible to give more flexibility. This will be loaded with a Lil' Texas Neo.

The current cab I'm using is a converted combo cab, and yes, it's still rocking the foam noodle. I like the sound of that, just trying to shrink the footprint a bit for easier moving around.

Thanks,

Jeff


----------



## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

No direct experience except with a Roland Cube 60, the older orange ones from the 80s. The box is just big enough that the 12 fits on the front baffle. Its closed back with a square vent hole so there might be some real speaker engineering going on. 
I'd just mount it in a box just big enough. To avoid the bucket sound maybe make it not as deep as it is wide or tall.
Maybe 13x13x8 inch outside would work?


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

If open back you can go as small as the width/depth of the drive unit + about 1" for cab walls etc. Bigger would still be better (even if open back) unless you're tone is all jangle and not chuggy girth.


----------



## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

Smallest cab I've built was 16"16"x10". I wouldn't want to go smaller (even though it is certainly possible), and I discovered quickly that I'm not a fan of square cabs with an open back. If building square, sealed/vented only for me (depending on the needs of the driver.)

Since you already have the driver in mind, that limits your options. If I were building a small cab with a Lil' Texas, my smallest choice would be 20"x16"x10" with a 1/3 to 1/2 open back. If weight was a concern, I'd use 15mm (nom.5/8") BB ply to further help in that area.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

jbealsmusic said:


> ...with a 1/3 to 1/2 open back.


Why did you specifically mention this? 
Please understand, I am not being critical but want to be educated. 

A partially open(or closed..if you prefer) back always seems to sound similar to me to a fully open back. What are my old and tinnitus-ridden ears missing?" 

I also read somewhere that cabinets sound better if not designed to be perfectly square. Interesting.

Thanks.


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

NG, thanks for the info (BTW, bought the speaker from you guys!). Have you ever tried the Lil' Texas in a closed cab? 20x16x10 isn't much smaller the my other cab and I really want to try to run smaller. But I don't want it to sound like shit. ;-)


----------



## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Pick one?


----------



## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

open back fills a small venue easier and lets your drummer hear you too .... closed back projects the sound forward to the audience....

nothing to stop you from putting the port (for closed speaker) on the side or top ... needs less frontal area cause you just need it for the speaker itself
.

or have a pop in panel to fill in the back if you need to for the open back style. think of a U shaped channel with the ports on either side covering the back


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Closed cab will have to be much bigger to work properly. T/S parameters of that Eminence are available online - plug them into any online sealed box calculator (remember that the output is _internal _volume; remember to subtract 1) the thickness of the wood in 3 dimensions and 2) the volume of the speaker basket/cone, as well as any other items such as bracing and jack/terminal cup, or the box will be too small ).

Also square (or rather cube, but square is getting up there) is the absolute worst shape for a speaker cab unless it is open back - max standing waves and internal resonances. Ideal dimensions follow the golden ratio (or round but that's a pain to build).


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

oldjoat said:


> open back fills a small venue easier


Not necessarily; depends on placement within room/stage. Can sometimes be worse because sound from rear is perfectly out of phase with front (e.g. why open has less bass than closed, but if too close to a wall (without being right up against it) it can cancel out up to the mids sometimes, making it indistinct on stage).



oldjoat said:


> and lets your drummer hear you too .... closed back projects the sound forward to the audience....


As a drummer, no, anything but this. Just put your amps behind me instead of in front. This is the stupidest trend in live sound (amps in front of drummer) - doesn't sound good (on stage) and doesn't look good (weird IMHO) to the audience. It's only saving grace is that it allows for lower stage volume (big whoop) which in turn allows for more complex monitor mixes (IMHO better to put the amps behind the drummer and then no guitars in the monitor mix - vox, kick and un-amped instruments only makes for a better (clearer less muddy) stage sound). In ear monitors are another matter - if you want to get fancy with monitor mixes go that way, but if trad wedge monitors, trust me (especially in smaller shittier venues).


----------



## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

yup ... but lots of stages are small and bands setup all the time with the drummer way back there.
few venues are ideal ... most are horrible with "make do with what you got"

care must be taken to account for "practice /play /and performance" attributes of the amp and cab. no "one unit" fits all.

an overdriven speaker sounds like #$%^&* no matter what it is in.


----------



## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

let's not forget the history of amps ... several hot tubes hanging down over a big speaker that pushes air over the tubes and helps cool the unit , hence the open back to let the pulses of hot air out the back. Then came bigger separate heads and separate speaker cabs ... both got (or should have been) optimized for best performance . Don't forget the personal preference of one "sound" over the other in the mix. The same goes for the arguments over Tube VS Transistor.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

How come no one has mentioned folded vents? You can emphasize low end in a small ported cab by obliging the backward motions of the speaker to travel a longer path to get out. It makes the insides of the cab more complicated, but if the goal is to get lotsa oomph in a small footprint, that'll do it. They can be "scientifically" designed, but even a simpler up-here-down-there-and-out-there vent will get you more bass.


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

mhammer said:


> How come no one has mentioned folded vents? You can emphasize low end in a small ported cab by obliging the backward motions of the speaker to travel a longer path to get out. It makes the insides of the cab more complicated, but if the goal is to get lotsa oomph in a small footprint, that'll do it. They can be "scientifically" designed, but even a simpler up-here-down-there-and-out-there vent will get you more bass.


Thats not ported ( bass reflex) anymore but a shitty transmission line ( or a horn if tapered large end out). TLs are my fave cab type but the calcs and operating principle are very different. The cab does not end up being smaller than open back ported or even sealed. You can get a decent TL with very little math. Now if you put a ported box in a ported box you get a bandpass enclosure - not so good for guitar, mostly car car audio and computer subwoofers, some hifi.

Now if you took the usual port tube and twisted it up ( added elbows) and extended it, all youre doing is making a mistuned bass reflex ( could be good or bad depending on what the new tuning freq of the port is - for guitar vs hifi use better is not always flat response) and when you put bends in it it makes the math complicated for no good reason. The bend does nothing for the resulting sound; its about the volume of air in the port, essentially a helmholtz resonator.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I'll agree, tentatively. I think we need to distinguish between all the math and twists and turns required for achieving something close to flat frequency response for sound reproduction, and squeezing more bass out of a small package that will inevitably be subject to all manner of EQ-ing, wahs, etc. that will stray quite far from flat response. In other words, I'm willing to be slack'n'sloppy for the purposes of rock and roll. That said, I can understand that others might want something more predictable. I'm just saying there ARE ways of squeezing out more bass and apparent volume from small enclosures. They may not be easy or precise, but they WILL get you more. Builder's choice.

BTW, thanks for reminding me of the correct technical term for what I was describing. I knew it wasn't a folded vent, but I couldn't quite recall what it should be called. Now I know.


----------



## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

kinda reminds me of the audiophile describing his superior sounding $10,000 electrostatic speakers tied to his less than 1% THD B&O stereo system while he listens to ACDC live stage performance ... and he forgets where the original sound was coming out of on stage.

each has its' place and usage ... symphony and a dead quiet room , perfect recording for one and play the ACDC through a HIWATT ^)@#


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Error...duplicate.


----------



## Guest (May 8, 2019)

mhammer said:


> a simpler up-here-down-there-and-out-there vent


Here's what I have. It fills the room.


----------



## Guest (May 8, 2019)

Forgot to mention that it's for sale.
Forte 3D clone cabinet.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Jeez, that is one _*serious*_ build!


----------



## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

mhammer said:


> Jeez, that is one _*serious*_ build!


Engineering speaker cabinets are fascinating. I spent some time around the car audio scene as a young teen, looking at custom designed subwoofer enclosures.


----------



## oldjoat (Apr 4, 2019)

mhammer said:


> Jeez, that is one _*serious*_ build!


DITTO ! lotsa thought went into something like that.


----------



## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

Maybe build a small box and see what happens?


----------



## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

You have a lot of forgiveness with an open-back cabinet. You could make it not much bigger than the speaker itself. Closed-back is a different matter. 

Thiele cabinets, IME, are about the smallest closed-back cabs that don't limit the driver's capabilities. There should be lots of on-line info on the correct cab dimensions and port size for a properly tuned Thiele cab. I would stick with the science already done.


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

laristotle said:


> Here's what I have. It fills the room.
> 
> View attachment 254188
> View attachment 254192





mhammer said:


> Jeez, that is one _*serious*_ build!


It is. I have the other one by the same builder. It is a great cab, but it is not compact - above average size for a 1x12. Fricken amazing cab though. I haven't tried a 12 in mine yet - the 10" I threw in there (came with an adapter ring) sounded so awesome it's still in there.



High/Deaf said:


> You have a lot of forgiveness with an open-back cabinet. You could make it not much bigger than the speaker itself. Closed-back is a different matter.
> 
> Thiele cabinets, IME, are about the smallest closed-back cabs that don't limit the driver's capabilities. There should be lots of on-line info on the correct cab dimensions and port size for a properly tuned Thiele cab. I would stick with the science already done.


That's what I was getting at re open back. Since guitar does not really test the limits of a 12" speaker's bass extension abilities (it's about the midrange gus [sic]), except in very specific cases (chuggy riffage in harder rock/metal; 7+ string; numetal etc) you don't need the bass response and that is the best way to make the smallest cab possible (unless you need the chug). Nothing can even come close to the compactness. Additionally you get the most dynamic response of any cab type (TLs have this in common, but are a more complicated build and not very popular for guitar, but they do exist) - a sealed cab (aka Accoustic Suspension - a name that illustrates the point I am about to be making) is acoustically damped - the speaker does not react as fast or as freely - this allows higher power handling and more bass without the cone going nuts; less dynamic/responsive.

If you want something sealed-ish but also as small as possible, check out Aperiodic enclosure types (basically a strategically leaky sealed box - just leaky enough to allow it to be smaller without choking the speaker and killing bass response, but not leaky enough to resonate like a ported/bass reflex). A typical example of these is the vintage Dynaudio A series (A-25, A-35 etc) which are revered classics in the hifi world. Not sure what you mean by Thiele cab, but possibly something similar.

See also vintage Hiwatt vs Marshall 4x12s. The Hiwatts are not sealed; the rear panel has an intentional gap at the bottom - a slot, so it's technically bass reflex and you could tune the box to the speakers in it (or your preference) by changing the size of that opening. A Marshall you can tune for more bass by stuffing it (sealed cab).


----------



## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

I like my Theile design 1x12 cab. It’s designed for an EVM12L speaker, so I’m not sure how other speakers would sound in it. Lots of plans on line if you want to build one (google EV TL806). Here is what they look like, mine is made from walnut.


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Sneaky said:


> I like my Theile design 1x12 cab. It’s designed for an EVM12L speaker, so I’m not sure how other speakers would sound in it. Lots of plans on line if you want to build one (google EV TL806). Here is what they look like, mine is made from walnut.


Ah. is that 'port' stuffed when finished? If so it's aka Aperiodic box as I described above. EVs are very different from other guitar drivers in terms of T/S parameters. You might be able to find something else that works for you in there, but you're probably best off sticking with an EV (though you could go with an EV Force series unit vs EVM to save on weight - same cone and very close sound and parameter wise but smaller magnet so much lighter, also lower power handling but still 150 watts, vs 300/600 depending on EVM version, so fine).


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

Great info guys, I really appreciate it. I think I will start with an open back in the 20x16x10 size, maybe just a bit smaller. I'm also contemplating a 10 inch cabinet build as I am really looking to get as compact as possible. That would require a new speaker or a swap.


----------



## Sneaky (Feb 14, 2006)

Granny Gremlin said:


> Ah. is that 'port' stuffed when finished? If so it's aka Aperiodic box as I described above. EVs are very different from other guitar drivers in terms of T/S parameters. You might be able to find something else that works for you in there, but you're probably best off sticking with an EV (though you could go with an EV Force series unit vs EVM to save on weight - same cone and very close sound and parameter wise but smaller magnet so much lighter, also lower power handling but still 150 watts, vs 300/600 depending on EVM version, so fine).


I think the centre port is covered.


----------



## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

greco said:


> Why did you specifically mention this?
> Please understand, I am not being critical but want to be educated.
> 
> A partially open(or closed..if you prefer) back always seems to sound similar to me to a fully open back. What are my old and tinnitus-ridden ears missing?"
> ...


I generally think of an open back as a large vent/port. My reasoning for 1/3 to 1/2 specifically has to do with the parameters of the Lil' Texas, and how they'd interact with a 20x16x10 cab. Truth is, most neo guitar speakers operate best in enclosures that are much larger than standard. The difference between half open and fully open is probably pretty minor. Something you'd see a lot of change in with some measurements, but most people probably wouldn't notice much of a difference.



nbs2005 said:


> NG, thanks for the info (BTW, bought the speaker from you guys!). Have you ever tried the Lil' Texas in a closed cab? 20x16x10 isn't much smaller the my other cab and I really want to try to run smaller. But I don't want it to sound like shit. ;-)


It won't sound like shit, it will just sound different. Guys like me and others contributing in this thread enjoy the nitty gritty details of how the speaker will interact with the enclosure, how it will interact with the floor/room, etc. In all honesty, there is more thought being put into the conversation in this thread than most hobbyists and even some large companies put into designing/building their production speaker cabinets.

In the end, technically less than ideal may be objectively worse from a technical standpoint. But, it's more than possible you'll be happy with the results.



laristotle said:


> Forgot to mention that it's for sale.
> Forte 3D clone cabinet.


I wouldn't call that a Forte 3D Clone. What you have is superior to what the original Forte design was. If anything, it is a Forte 3D upgrade.



tomee2 said:


> Maybe build a small box and see what happens?


I vote for this...

As I get more into the technical side, I think back on my builds and realize many of them were technically bad for a lot of reasons. Yet, they sounded good for their application. People seemed to think they sounded good too because I managed to sell them at a profit.

It's fun to go down the rabbit hole, but isn't always necessary. Especially with guitar cabs, because they are a product of tradition (put a driver in a box.) There have been many advancements in acoustic engineering, but guitar cabs are still almost exclusively just a driver in a box, often a poorly chosen driver at that (in terms of how it would interact with the box it is in.)

Just build something. Easiest solution is to build a closed back but don't finish it. If you don't like it, you can cut a chunk off the back, or remove the back entirely. Once you have it pleasing to your ear, then finish it as desired.


----------



## Guest (May 8, 2019)

jbealsmusic said:


> I wouldn't call that a Forte 3D Clone. What you have is superior to what the original Forte design was. If anything, it is a Forte 3D upgrade.


Thank you.
In the back of my mind, that's what I'm thinking too.
I didn't post my thoughts about it due to not wanting to be lumped in with those 
'_best guitar I ever had. better than a Gibson_' ads we laugh at on kijiji. lol


----------



## Guest (May 8, 2019)

nbs2005 said:


> looking to get as compact as possible





jbealsmusic said:


> It won't sound like shit, it will just sound different


Years ago, I was at a jam where the host experimented with a 12" speaker suspended in a milk crate.
Sounded fine to me.


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I'm curious as to whether anyone, whether here or a commercial builder, has tried combining a medium-sized full-range speaker (e.g., 8") with a smaller subwoofer in a bi-amped cab to get a compact enclosure with reasonable oomph. There are plenty of decent 4"-6" subs out there.

Or is there some technical reason why the two could not, and should not, be combined?


----------



## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Sneaky said:


> I like my Theile design 1x12 cab. It’s designed for an EVM12L speaker, so I’m not sure how other speakers would sound in it. Lots of plans on line if you want to build one (google EV TL806). Here is what they look like, mine is made from walnut.


A Mesa C90 sounds pretty good in these cabs, too. At least Mesa thinks so (and I concur). 

My Mesa Thiele came with that speaker. I swapped an EVM12L into it and, except at really loud volumes, the difference in tone is negligible. The difference in weight is significant and I often think about putting a C90 back into it, because it doesn't get out much at it's current weight (more than a couple of combo amps I own).

I wouldn't mind trying a neo driver of some type in there as well.


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

jbealsmusic said:


> I wouldn't call that a Forte 3D Clone. What you have is superior to what the original Forte design was. If anything, it is a Forte 3D upgrade.





laristotle said:


> Thank you.
> In the back of my mind, that's what I'm thinking too.
> I didn't post my thoughts about it due to not wanting to be lumped in with those
> '_best guitar I ever had. better than a Gibson_' ads we laugh at on kijiji. lol


Thank you from me too - I contributed to the changes in the design (there was a thread here). I was really impressed that the builder ( Jimmy_D ) took so many of my suggestions and incorporated them into the design. Now that I have used it I have further suggestions of coarse, but they are mostly about ergonomic considerations vs sound/performance.


----------



## Hammerhands (Dec 19, 2016)

I’ve got a speaker loaded in a Film-o-sound cabinet that sounds fine.

It’s more engineered than most of the Film-o-sound cabinets I can find on the internet. I think it’s made like mid-century modern chairs, with bent wood.

If you were going for light, it’s a pretty good plan, but not as light as composite.


Screws were too long.


The magnet was too big and part of the reflector was cut off.


----------



## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

Granny Gremlin said:


> Thank you from me too - I contributed to the changes in the design (there was a thread here). I was really impressed that the builder ( Jimmy_D ) took so many of my suggestions and incorporated them into the design. Now that I have used it I have further suggestions of coarse, but they are mostly about ergonomic considerations vs sound/performance.


Nice! @Jimmy_D is a good builder too. He crushed it when we did our contest a couple of years back.


----------



## Guest (May 8, 2019)

jbealsmusic said:


> Nice! @Jimmy_D is a good builder too. He crushed it when we did our contest a couple of years back.


I remember that cab. It was beautiful.


----------



## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

You could also scrounge around for a cheap practice amp that uses a 10, and swap in a 12. Many smaller combos should take a 12 once the amp is removed. Rear mount the speaker and the hole size will be ok too.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

tomee2 said:


> Rear mount the speaker and the hole size will be ok too.


Don't you run the risk of the speaker cone of the surround of the 12" speaker hitting the baffle and possibly damaging it?

Wouldn't the baffle hole for the 10" 'choke out' some of the tonal qualities of sound produced by a 12" speaker?


----------



## Guest (May 8, 2019)

I was just thinking that too.


----------



## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

For proof of concept it'll work, and the holes for a 10 won't be much smaller then the cone on a 12. I'm also thinking of guitar speakers with stiff suspensions, not big rolled surrounds. If it works out, then build a proper cab or enlarge the hole? Just thinking out loud for a quick easy solution


----------



## tomee2 (Feb 27, 2017)

10" hole is 9.25". 12" cone is 10" or so mid point of the surround. Measured off a g12t75 and a JBL. 
I've got 2 other 12s here that measure 9.75" cone.
Rear mounting needs a thick gasket.


----------



## GUInessTARS (Dec 28, 2007)

What if you nail a little box together out of scrap wood, use the tone controls on your guitar and amp to adjust the sound, have fun and play loud.
The internet would just die.


----------



## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

GUInessTARS said:


> What if you nail a little box together out of scrap wood, use the tone controls on your guitar and amp to adjust the sound, have fun and play loud.
> The internet would just die.


You haven't seen the cabinet my Super Reverb sits in. Theres 1970s pine, wood screws, waterlogged plywood, glue, paint, tolex, duct tape, 1970s hardwood plywood, etc. Part of it was a 70s Fender Bassman 10 cabinet I attacked with an angle grinder in my parents living room.


----------



## TB2019 (Mar 14, 2019)

Lots of love for open back cabs here.

I'm more fond of closed back. I have no science to back this up, but I find the bass response tighter and more controlled and sound men tend to like them better.


----------



## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

@High/Deaf if you really like the EV, try an EV Force 12 as I suggested above instead of the 12L - same tone, but much less weight (150 watts vs 300/600 like the Ls depending on version).



TB2019 said:


> Lots of love for open back cabs here.
> 
> I'm more fond of closed back. I have no science to back this up, but I find the bass response tighter and more controlled and sound men tend to like them better.


That is exactly correct, not just more controlled, but more bass in general. The cab is sealed, so think of it this way: no air can get in or out so the air pressure inside changes as the cone moves in/out. This controls the cone and prevents it from overshooting in either direction. That is why it is technically called Acoustic Suspension.

In addition to that, the drivers back wave is contained (to a degree) so you get more, deeper bass because it doesn't wrap around and (paritally) cancel out witrh the front wave like in an open back cab. What you do get is the back wave bouncing around in the cab (this is why bigger cabs and sealed subs are heavily braced) causing resonances, and when they hit the back side of the cone, some distortion (vibrates the cone).

The tradeoff, as mentioned above, is less dynamic response. As you said, more controlled.

If you like more (deeper and controlled) bass and want better dynamic response than a sealed cab, look into TLs (Transmission Lines). The theory there being that instead of a box you have a tube (can be folded up like a horn into a box shape) that is a specific length (related to the resonant freq of the drive unit) and width , or rather cross-sectional area (1 to 2 times the cone volume at the start, 0.5-1 at the end; tapers narrower, opposite to a horn, but can also just be straight all the way through). The effect of this is that it takes the back wave of the driver and via time delay due to travelling down the line (that's why the length is important) puts it back in phase with the front. This reinforces the bass frequencies and allows for up to 2 octaves more bass response vs an optimised ported cab with the same drive unit (which bottoms out at approx the resonant freq ). The taper and diameter of the line controls the Q of the cab (not all the control of a sealed, but more than open back). The line is also stuffed, which does 2 things: 1st it filters out the top end so the line is just reinforcing bass, 2nd it allows the line to be shorter (1/4 wavelength of the resonant freq vs 1/2 which makes a huge diff in box size - this is because the speed of sound through air is faster than the speed of sound through stuffing - long hair raw wool (aka roving wool) is recommended and best - that was actually studied and proven back in the 90s/early 00s by a guy whose name escapes me at the moment). A TL is the only cab type that successfully eliminates all negative effects of the driver's back wave. The main trade off is larger box size (even if folded, but some manufacturers have miniaturized them considerably - see EA, which I have not used or ompared to my full size TLs so not sure if that had any compromises or side effects).


----------



## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Hammerhands said:


> I’ve got a speaker loaded in a Film-o-sound cabinet that sounds fine.
> 
> It’s more engineered than most of the Film-o-sound cabinets I can find on the internet. I think it’s made like mid-century modern chairs, with bent wood.
> 
> ...


A late friend of mine had a trio of those that he had bought over the years, which we sold at a music-gear yard sale last autumn. A guy bought them just out of curiosity, but got back to me and said that he used it as an external cab for his Princeton Reverb and absolutely loves it more than the stock speaker with the amp.


----------



## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

Well I'm bringing another one back from the dead.

I am looking to build a 1x12 cabinet, build all my own cabinets and racks so I don't need advise on building boxes or hardware.

Do need assistance with dimensions and what speaker you use.

Was looking at eminence governor, want a speaker that gives a overdriven blues sound either from a small tube or solid state amp.

Basically my gigging rig.


----------



## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

I would be open to other speaker suggestions?

I am going to make the back with panels so I can try different options.


----------



## nbs2005 (Mar 21, 2018)

Speakers are of course a personal taste. I'm more of an American voiced Fender guy. I've had good luck with the Eminence Lil Texas and Texas Heat, the Weber California, WGS G12C & Q, and an old US Jensen. I did not care for the Eminence Red Coat or the Celestion Greenback. The Eminence 80/20 was just OK but I did not hate it.


----------



## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

I am struggling with speaker selection, I am probably over thinking this? Lol

I have checked out Celestions, Emeince and Webers websites as well as listened to various comparisons on the Internet.

I am really thinking a greenback might be suited to me.

As for the size of the cabinet I am going 21x16x 11", mainly because I still have a rack set up that I may want to use this cabinet for and that is how wide it is. I love my old Marshall 4x12 but hate dragging it around.

I am building this cabinet for a little amp system to hall places to jam, going to use it with a Quarterhorse for now.


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

MarkM said:


> I am struggling with speaker selection, I am probably over thinking this? Lol
> 
> I have checked out Celestions, Emeince and Webers websites as well as listened to various comparisons on the Internet.
> 
> ...


Hard to go wrong with a Greenback!


----------

