# Poppin' the hood - removing rusty screws



## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

So, I bought a vintage Japanese(?) guitar a couple weeks ago and would like to pop the hood to clean inside and see how everything looks in there, but there are some rusted screws in my way. Does anyone have any advice on removing rusty and/or stripped screws? Are there any products recommended to get or stay away from (WD40?)?
Here's a photo:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p195/johnnyangel69/HsinMi Guitar/P1140466.jpg


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## dodgechargerfan (Mar 22, 2006)

Metal Rescue will clean that up and not harm anything else. 
You normally soak the rusty parts but you can dab the stuff on and just keep dabbing it on. You'll have to have patience. 
If you could soak it, it would be done overnight.


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## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

I'm finding out it's not just the rust but some gouged out screws that don't want to budge. Any advice on removing stripped screws from a pickguard? I don't really care to salvage these screws. I know some folks would if they came from their vintage Fender or Gibson, but I just want these rusty stripped POS's out of here.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

I would just carefully drill the heads off them, take off the plate and then remove the left over shaft of the screw with small vise-grips or something similar.


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## lrocs (Aug 26, 2010)

I've done it this way a couple times and it worked out good. Dab on "liquid wrench" or any other solvent that will get into the threads, then very carefully take a hack saw and cut a new slot into the screw, being careful not to cut the plate or guitar. Use a slot screw driver to turn the screw. Sometimes this will give enough grab to let the screw turn. Good luck, lrocs


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

Take a decent sized soldering iron (or gun) and heat the screw up - when themetal oxidizes it can more or less glue itself to whatever it is in (wood, metal, etc).

The heat of the iron will transfer to the screw and help break the bond.

Just dont over heat and cause any burns to the surrounding wood. Heat it just enough to break free.

AJC


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## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

I think I may give lrocs idea a shot. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

I have heard of people trying this. I'd need to get a solder gun, but this could be my backup trick if lrocs advice doesn't work.
Nice guitars BTW. I like the 3 pup tele.


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## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

ajcoholic said:


> Take a decent sized soldering iron (or gun) and heat the screw up - when themetal oxidizes it can more or less glue itself to whatever it is in (wood, metal, etc).
> 
> The heat of the iron will transfer to the screw and help break the bond.
> 
> ...


I have heard of people trying this. I'd need to get a solder gun, but this could be my backup trick if lrocs advice doesn't work. These screws are embedded in a pickguard...this might be tricky not to overheat, but if all else fails...
Nice guitars BTW. I like the 3 pup tele.


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## blacktooth (Jul 3, 2010)

i use the soldering iron, then i shock em with Zep 45 or Moov-it. works wonders. though most times, the heat alone is enough


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## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

lrocs said:


> I've done it this way a couple times and it worked out good. Dab on "liquid wrench" or any other solvent that will get into the threads, then very carefully take a hack saw and cut a new slot into the screw, being careful not to cut the plate or guitar. Use a slot screw driver to turn the screw. Sometimes this will give enough grab to let the screw turn. Good luck, lrocs


This method didn't work out for me. The screws are so close the pickguard (embedded almost). I was able to cut a groove, but not enough to lock on with a flathead. I'll have to try the solder heat next.


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## Johnny (Nov 30, 2010)

blacktooth said:


> i use the soldering iron, then i shock em with Zep 45 or Moov-it. works wonders. though most times, the heat alone is enough


I'll have to try this method next. The hacksaw-flathead-groove-cut method didnt work for me. 
...and remember, if at first you don't succeed...try, try again.


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