# Grain filler suggestions



## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

Guys, been it's gonna be the first time i will use reranch nitro, i was wondering if there was something different to use with the grain filler and sealer for a Ash body since i'll be using Nitro?..

thanks for the Tips.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

Traditionaly (in both guitars and furniture) a paste wood filler is used. I buy it is gallon cans and tint with an oil stain to match whatever wood I am using it on (mahogany, ash, etc).

You should be able to buy it in a smaller can in most better wood finishing supply stores.

You take a dab of it, on a rag or burlap and rub it into the grain. Then let it flash off and wipe the excess off cross grain. Let dry over night and then proceed with your finishing.

The other thing is to make sure you get a product that is compatible with your clearcoats.

Another filler that is used to day is to thin an epoxy resin, and brush it in and allow it to soak and then dry. This will fill the grain but will also effect the way the wood takes stain, so if you are clearcoating or solid colour painting it wont matter. Ususally you take a finishing resin like West Systems and this it out. You dont use an epoxy glue - it has to be a finishing resin which is what you lay up cloth with.

AJC


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

i'll be painting the bodies with Nitro..so it's not gonnay be a transparent finish.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

Maybe a little off topic......but I use automotive type bondo/filler when I'm painting solid colours. Works great, sticks to wood very well and never reacts with anything.

Other than that I use McFadden grain filler that I buy in the US. It's stainable, almost like a jell that you spread on, squeegy off. 
A lot of the wood stores around here carry a grain filler that's bees wax based. I've looked at it but never tried any. 

Wood Essence also carries grain filler. I've never tried their's either but Marty likes it so it's got to be good.


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## copperhead (May 24, 2006)

i use benjamin moore grain filler which i buy locally ,with nitro finish i tint it with minwax stain if i need to it comes in quart cans i tint it with oil stain like minwax ebony stain for a transparent finish but you wont need that for a solid color


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## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

hi alain- id be tempted to try the tru-oil slurry method that the reranch forum outlines. just to see how it works- it sure seems easy- basically its wetsanding using tru-oil as the lubricant- the built up dust mixes with the tru-oil and fills the grain and pores- im sure youve seen it described there. 
i have no idea how effective or ideal it is, but you have lots of tru-oil experience, so i thought id throw it at ya. 
reranch sells a grain filler as well, but ive never used any of their products- so i dunno.


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## johnglca (Mar 10, 2008)

I like the slurry method. You an use any oil or combination. Had good luck mixing oil with varnish of your choice and thinner, gradually increasing the amount of varnish, depending on the type of final finish you want.


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## Heralchemy (Jul 15, 2009)

Shoemakers use Miniwax and anything from Homeless Depot is crap. Sherwin Williams or similar is better source.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Natural_Pore_Filler_for_a_Tung_Oil_Finish.html

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Filling_Grain_on_Oak_Veneer.html


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