# Paint/ finishing HELP!



## kjak117 (Jan 3, 2010)

Ok so i've tried to do some research but i can't find any definite answers. I'm new to building, and my current (first) project is a mahogany lp build kit i got for christmas from guitarfetish. I'm in search of a finish that is moderately easy to apply that i can get in aerosol cans, as i won't be getting a spray gun in the foreseeable future haha. so far i know i'll need grainfiller for the mahogany body and headstock ( any advice as to which kind?) , but i'm unsure about what i'll need for the neck because i want to do an unfinished neck like the one in this vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3gJxrnnZx8
i messaged the guy who made this vid and he said he used gunstock oil without a grainfiller, but reccommended i use an oil based grainfiller before the gunstock oil. Does anyone know where i can get this stuff in edmonton?

As far as the body goes, i keep reading that nitro is the best right? but i've also read that it is pretty bad for you as it is classified as a volatile organic chemical.
My current plan is to paint/dye the body a transparent red w/ gloss finsh and most likely paint the headstock black w/ a stinger like in the vid above. 
Can anyone guide me as to what to buy and where to buy it near edmonton. 

One other thing, i remember seeing a youtube vid where the guy used black dye then sanded it back to enhance the grain of the wood. is this something i could do ? or would a certain type of grainfiller serve this purpose ?


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## House Guitars (Jan 4, 2010)

I haven't had much success finding Oil based filler in Canada although I'm sure that it is available. They are easy to find in the US, but don't seem to be that available in Canada. I use epoxy as a pore filler on everything. The advantage over other fillers is that the epoxy does not shrink, like oil or water based fillers do. It can be a little tricky to work with until you get the hang of it. The epoxy filler is probably not a good idea under oil, but does work well under nitro and I believe water based finishes.

No matter what finish you decide to go with I would recommend that you pick up a chemical respirator from your local hardware store. Some finishes are less toxic than others but I none of them are good for you. 

If you are wanting to use Areosol cans than you will probably have to go with some type of Nitro finish. However the Nitro finishes you find in Areosol cans here in Canada are going to be Furniture grade finish and not Instrument grade. Instrument grade finishes are more flexible and less prone to checking and cracking. Not as critical on an electric as it would be on an acoustic, but it is something to think about.

There are a number of waterbased finishes from suppliers in the US that can be shipped to Canada. The waterbased finishes are not as forgiving as nitro, but I do know a lot of people who use them and get very good results. They can also be brushed. Whatever finish you decide to go with do up some test boards before you actually try finishing the guitar.

Hope some of this is helpful

Josh


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

OK..first, you'll need grain filler and wood sealer to start with, get in touch with Jeff at http://www.woodessence.com/ he ship anywhere and have greath prices, 

Second, get yourself a 5" rotary sander, you'll thank me, and get lots of different grit, from 240, 320, 500. that should do. Also get some automative masking take, the green stuff, usually 1/2 and 1" will be enought..

For the finish, use Nitro obviously for different reason. check www.richelieu.com and they sell a complete line of translucide colors and clear finish. Like House mentionned, a chemical respirator is a most as well. Now, why nitro?..simple, if you mess up or change your mind, you can simply WIPE the nitro of the wood with Athenol in like 5 minutes..easy realy. and start back.

Now nitro is the best finish for me...BUT it does have some draw back...TIME, you will have to let the guitar cure for a good 4 to 6 weeks during winter before wet-sanding. 

What ever direction you go with, you find DA PLACE to get info..

Keep us posted on your project..


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

You can avoid some of the cure time by using a Catalyzed lacquer. Lacquer was initially used because of the speed on application, and was borrowed from the furniture industry. It's developed it's own myth in the instrument industry. 

Good article on lacquers 

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsAllAbout.aspx?id=2948

Avoid the acrylic lacquers because it's supposed to yellow ( just like the olden days.. ie yellow ,check, craze and mojo creating stuff) 

You can also use polyurethane for a tougher finish. 

That Wood Essence filler is water based. I think Benjamin Moore has a grain filler that is oil based. Actually the Mohawk stuff from Richelieu is solvent based. I just looked. 

As far as the neck I would lacquer it like the rest of the guitar and either wear it off  and or sand it off... if you don't put is many coats on that part of the neck and apply this guy sdsre


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

shoretyus, you can use water boarn sealer with Nitro..i've done a TONE of work with it and never had any issues.


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

al3d said:


> shoretyus, you can use water boarn sealer with Nitro..i've done a TONE of work with it and never had any issues.


I don't doubt that Alain. He was refering to using Tru oil on the neck though. Just giving him the option.


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## stickboy (Jun 26, 2009)

I have had good luck using Benjamin Moore sanding sealer (oil based) but it is too thin to use on Mahogany. For open grain woods I use water based coloured grain sealer from StewMac. For staining, I have used water based clothes dyes available at Zellers or Wallmart. The dyes come in packets and I mix them with 1 liter of hot filtered clean water. Sand down your sealed body or neck to 400 grit. Wipe on dye with a brush or cloth in a heavy coat and wipe off excess. The water will raise the grain so you will have to lightly sand again. You can repeat the staining if you want a deeper tone.
For finishing I have only used Deft nitro lacquer (I order a case at a time, 6 cans). I found the Deft brand at Colour Town here in Newmarket but I suspect you can find it other paint supply houses. Spray cans work the best for me as I generally work on one guitar at a time. 
And yes, the fumes are awful, definitely wear a good respirator and never spray inside your house.
I will spray three coats a day for 5 days. Then let sit for 3 weeks before sanding and wet sanding.


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Stickboy sanding sealer and grain filler are two different things. Grain filler does that fill the pores on open grain wood like mahogany. ash, etc


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## Shooting Star (Jan 18, 2010)

Hi kjak117

I just registered in the forum. I have just ordered and am waiting for all the parts to do a telecaster style guitar. I'm planning to finish it in butterscotch blonde. Like you, it is my first project, I am looking for finishing materials, and live in Edmonton. I'm just starting to research finding the finishing materials and am hoping to find a good source in Canada since many of the products can't be shipped from the US as far as I can determine.

I'm also planning on doing the all maple neck in tru-oil gunstock finish. I have some experience using it since I make canes and walking sticks and I use it all the time for the finish on these, including over bark on the sticks. It makes beautiful smooth-feeling and comfortable stick handles on bare wood. It is great for that application and I'm sure it will work great on a guitar neck also.

I don't know if I would use it on a fingerboard unless it is maple, but others may be able to shed some light on the feasability of using it on rosewood, ebony, etc. I'm not familiar with finishing fret boards at all. Anyways, you can find tru-oil in Edmonton at better sporting goods stores like wholesale sports. I can highly recommend it for finishing bare wood. In fact I wouldn't hesitate to use it on the body of the guitar (ash) if I was doing it in a natural finish, but I would think the grain would have to be filled first on ash. However, since I want to do the authentic butterscotch blonde, I don't think I will be able to put it over top of the coloring coats. If anyone else can shed some light on this, I would greatly appreciate it. Does anyone know if tru-oil can be used over stains and/or dyes or tinted lacquer, for example?

In any case, I'm wondering how you have been making out wth your search for finishing products since your original post and am thinking maybe we can share any info we might find and help each other out, possibly. If you are interested in that, feel free to PM me and we can go from there.

Good luck with your project.


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