# Any fix for a broken speaker terminal post?



## Johnny

I have a Traynor TS-15 that has a broken speaker terminal post. Is there a way to salvage this speaker and connection? I thought about soldering it back...any thoughts?

















Looks like speaker nerve (left side)? Where does that fit in when reattaching the post?


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## washburned

Johnny said:


> I have a Traynor TS-15 that has a broken speaker terminal post. Is there a way to salvage this speaker and connection? I thought about soldering it back...any thoughts?
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> Looks like speaker nerve (left side)? Where does that fit in when reattaching the post?


You should be able to solder the "nerve" to the unused lug on the broken piece (easiest), or try to resolder to the old contact point. I wouldn't worry about reassembling the cardboard insulator, just make sure there is no metal to metal contact. Also, there is no way that is wired correctly, the speaker on the left has both terminals (red, yellow) fed from one (red) terminal on the other speaker. To make a parallel connection move the yellow lug from the right side speaker up to the yellow lug above .


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## Johnny

washburned said:


> You should be able to solder the "nerve" to the unused lug on the broken piece (easiest), or try to resolder to the old contact point. I wouldn't worry about reassembling the cardboard insulator, just make sure there is no metal to metal contact. Also, there is no way that is wired correctly, the speaker on the left has both terminals (red, yellow) fed from one (red) terminal on the other speaker. To make a parallel connection move the yellow lug from the right side speaker up to the yellow lug above .


Good Eye! Thanks, for the tips. I just picked this up last night with some other "project" amps and the 1st thing that caught my eye was that busted terminal. I didn't even notice the wiring beyond that. I was busy on one of the other projects after posting this, but now I know what to look for and fix so thank you very much!

I'll post my findings after I get to this.

Thanks again!


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## greco

The same thing happened to me on a Weber speaker. 

I ended up making a new "terminal holder" with heavy PCB material used in electronics.

If you cut the spider wire on the yellow wire side (*as close to the terminal holder as possible*) and drill out the centre rivet that holds the terminal holder to the speaker basket.....you could send it to me and I would make you a new one. However, *you would need to resolder* *the spider wires to the terminal holder* once you got the new unit back.
I used a small nut and bolt with a lock washer to attach the terminal holder to the speaker basket.
How are your soldering skills?

Just a thought.

Cheers

Dave

You could also send the speaker to me and I would do the complete repair. However, shipping would be expensive.


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## Johnny

My solder skills are competent. I appreciate the tip and will try to solder back as is and see if it holds and makes a connection. Not sure I follow your directions: _"If you cut the spider wire on the yellow wire side (*as close to the terminal holder as possible*) and drill out the centre rivet that holds the terminal holder to the speaker basket.....you could send it to me and I would make you a new one. However, *you would need to resolder* *the spider wires to the terminal holder* once you got the new unit back."_ Are you saying to cut of the other part of the broken terminal holder?


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## keeperofthegood

Its an easy fix for speaker people. Those terminal strips are available for sale too. Getting the old rivet off without damaging the strip will be tough, need a dremel for that. http://meniscusaudio.com/terminal-strip-p-830.html

Soldering the spider wire is another story @[email protected] and is for me made of fail :C


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## JHarasym

washburned said:


> You should be able to solder the "nerve" to the unused lug on the broken piece (easiest), or try to resolder to the old contact point. I wouldn't worry about reassembling the cardboard insulator, just make sure there is no metal to metal contact.


 Wouldn't this leave the terminal floating in the air and vibrating/flying around? Is this a good idea ?


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## greco

Johnny said:


> My solder skills are competent. I appreciate the tip and will try to solder back as is and see if it holds and makes a connection. Not sure I follow your directions: _"If you cut the spider wire on the yellow wire side (*as close to the terminal holder as possible*) and drill out the centre rivet that holds the terminal holder to the speaker basket.....you could send it to me and I would make you a new one. However, *you would need to resolder* *the spider wires to the terminal holder* once you got the new unit back."_ Are you saying to cut of the other part of the broken terminal holder?


My instructions were only if you wanted to send me all the pieces so I could build you a new a new terminal holder.
In order to do that, you would need to unsolder the spider wire from the existing terminal that is intact and send me both pieces. Does this clarification help at all?

*@ Keeps.*..where would you buy terminal strips of the same configuration? 
BTW, I agree that a dremel would be a good tool for removing the rivit that holds the terminal strip to the speaker basket, but I was also able to do it with a drill (slowly and very carefully).

Cheers

Dave


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## greco

JHarasym said:


> Wouldn't this leave the terminal floating in the air and vibrating/flying around? Is this a good idea ?


This is exactly why I built a new terminal strip. 
However, in theory, you could insulate the "floating" piece and attach it to the speaker basket with a nylon cable tie.
Also, the (short) spider wire is the restricting component here and it might need to be lengthened.

Cheers

Dave


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## keeperofthegood

greco said:


> My instructions were only if you wanted to send me all the pieces so I could build you a new a new terminal holder.
> In order to do that, you would need to unsolder the spider wire from the existing terminal that is intact and send me both pieces. Does this clarification help at all?
> 
> *@ Keeps.*..where would you buy terminal strips of the same configuration?
> BTW, I agree that a dremel would be a good tool for removing the rivit that holds the terminal strip to the speaker basket, but I was also able to do it with a drill (slowly and very carefully).
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Dave


 
Hey oh Dave. Yes, rivets are funky when smooth topped, and no access cone side. Would need to center punch before drilling or risk the drill sliding all over and back I would think.

The linked one to me "looks" the same and even if the spacing is slightly off should do the trick. If not there are many other similar sites selling them. 25 cents isn't too much to blow giving it a go 










Certainly if he wishes to retain character and reattain that originality rebuilding is also an option to seriously have open to you too!!


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## greco

Thanks Keeps....I totally missed your link in post #6....DOH !!

The $ 0.25 part of the total cost is great....wonder what shipping and handling would be?

Cheers

Dave


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## keeperofthegood

HAHA that I do not know, I was more in the "lets find it available" mindset. Once I know it is available that would be the next step, finding a seller that mixes cost and shipping reasonably. It could be available locally from an audio shop, and from them it may cost you $4.99 even but that may be less than someones parcel post fee of 6.50 to send you a 25 cent part  never know till you register and track the final cost down which is a pita for sure!!! However, as a part is is out there, just needed to show that was the case, what to expect on price, look, name and then its a little more work with google and feet to get a price. 

And no, not kidding about that shipping. I get the flyer from Goldmine and there is this in it this week (the pic is the link to the ad):





> Small gold colored IC die has a pattern etched onto the 0.245" x 0.325" silicon IC die. Some of these have tiny dots in the center. Great for study or making "electronic jewelry".


Firmly in the geek zone  they have a 10 dollar minimum order, so, I put in for 15 of these, comes to 10.40 or so and I go to the checkout and for 15 items the size of 15 US pennies the shipping is $6.29! I mean REALLY >.< how insane is that eh!!


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## greco

*@johnny...*Sorry, I derailed your thread a bit. 
Maybe some useful stuff, just the same.

I'll be interested in knowing how you end up fixing/solving your broken terminal strip.
Please post the results. 

Cheers

Dave


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## Johnny

greco said:


> *@johnny...*Sorry, I derailed your thread a bit.
> Maybe some useful stuff, just the same.
> 
> I'll be interested in knowing how you end up fixing/solving your broken terminal strip.
> Please post the results.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Dave



No problem on tangent. That's great the part exists on it's own. I have no problems with modding if it gets the speaker going, but as it was an inexpensive amp project to begin with I think I may just try and solder this part back together. The "SPIDER" wire you guys are talking about is the thin bit of wire that barely pokes out from the speaker right? Where does that go in relation to soldering on the broken piece? I may just remove both speakers and study them. Anyway, I think it's great that we have this resource to reach out to the community and offer/receive advice, tips, comments etc. I'll update my findings on this once I get to it.


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## keeperofthegood

I know, I go off the side now and then.

If you look at the pic I posted and again at your pic you will see that the connector is attached to the fiberboard by a hole bunched in the connector that is then fold/pressed through a hole in the fiberboard. In yours you will see this hole is filled with solder. That is where the "spider wire" is soldered.


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## greco

I have been in error with the name of these wires.
I should stop trusting my memory.

They are actually called *"voice coil leads"* or *"tinsel leads"*
I had a broken tinsel lead (everything else was fine on the speaker) a few years ago.
I put up a thread and several forums members walked me through the repair.

Suggestion: It might be a good idea to put a small heat sink on the tinsel wire when you solder it.

Cheers

Dave


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## keeperofthegood

HAHA Dave, Spider wire sounds cooler 

And yea, that stuff can be tough as pig stink from some makers and can pass the melt stage and go straight to vapor from other makers.

Also called pigtails by some too.


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## jb welder

Tinsel leads can be replaced but the dustcap has to be removed and reinstalled. It's best to have it done by a speaker repair shop and not really worth it unless the speakers are expensive or must be kept original.
You can extend the broken one but it's tough to do reliably. You need to use another piece of tinsel lead for the extension (I save the leads from blown speakers for this). Tinsel leads are made to flex, any other type of wire will not handle the movement of the cone. You need a strong mechanical connection before the solder is applied. Simply joining the two pieces with solder will not hold up long. I make a small hook at the broken end and a small hook at the extension, then join the two hooks and solder. Remember the bulk of the extended lead must still be able to handle a lot of flexing.
The broken piece of fibreboard with the terminals is not critical, it just has to stay secure. Pretty much any good glue or silicone should to the trick, you can also glue another strip on top of the first (sandwich) for reinforcement. The terminal strip is another thing that could be saved from a junk speaker.
So if you see blown/untested speakers in the trash, or real cheap (like 50 cents which I sometimes pay for good ones at the thrift shop!) don't forget they might be useful for parts such as tinsel leads, terminal strips, cone material (for cone repairs) and dustcaps.


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## greco

jb welder said:


> Tinsel leads can be replaced but the dustcap has to be removed and reinstalled. It's best to have it done by a speaker repair shop and not really worth it unless the speakers are expensive or must be kept original.
> You can extend the broken one but it's tough to do reliably. You need to use another piece of tinsel lead for the extension (I save the leads from blown speakers for this). Tinsel leads are made to flex, any other type of wire will not handle the movement of the cone. You need a strong mechanical connection before the solder is applied. Simply joining the two pieces with solder will not hold up long. I make a small hook at the broken end and a small hook at the extension, then join the two hooks and solder. Remember the bulk of the extended lead must still be able to handle a lot of flexing.
> The broken piece of fibreboard with the terminals is not critical, it just has to stay secure. Pretty much any good glue or silicone should to the trick, you can also glue another strip on top of the first (sandwich) for reinforcement. The terminal strip is another thing that could be saved from a junk speaker.
> So if you see blown/untested speakers in the trash, or real cheap (like 50 cents which I sometimes pay for good ones at the thrift shop!) don't forget they might be useful for parts such as tinsel leads, terminal strips, cone material (for cone repairs) and dustcaps.


Thanks for this post. The tinsel lead repair I did in the past was using additional tinsel lead that I had saved from another speaker. I have also saved the terminal strips from speakers. That fibreboard is so easy to break !!
We are pack rats with similar thinking ...LOL


I was at the electronics store today and saw same 2-way piggy-back terminals (see pic below) that could be drilled and fastened with an eyelet to some thick PCB, bent a bit and made to work (IMHO) .....if you had to build a terminal strip for a speaker. A lot of work....but just a "creative thought" I had.

Cheers

Dave


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