# Wilkinson 6 saddle Strat Bridge



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Just so I don't derail @Lincoln 's Tele bridge issue in his thread, I will start a Strat one I'm having trouble with. 

I bought a Fender Starcaster Strat (the ones you see in Best Buy/Costco/US Wal*Marts) from a guy at work for $50 (his son actually). It seemed like a potential "let's make this better" project. First things first, I adjusted the neck. Way too much relief. If I couldn't get that in line, there was no point. Without effort, it straightened out, and stayed. He must have dropped it, cause the high E tuner was bent. Threw on some locking ones I had. The bridge was fairly gummed up, so I couldn't adjust the saddled height on all of them. That and he had sheared off the trem arm in the hole. I had a bridge from an old Squire Strat that fit, so I put it on. For some reason, this one lifted when I put the strings back on. So, I took the saddles off the Squire, and put them on the original. I guess I don't need the arm... but it did it too... I ordered a Wilkinson. I put it on today and it is also doing it. WTF?!?!?! I suppose the easy fix is to block it, but why?? Why is this happening regardless of the bridge I put on? I even put extra springs on it. All 5 spots of the claw are being used now. It may as well be blocked cause with all that spring tension, I can't use the trem arm anyway. 

If I never touched the original, I am certain this would not be happening. 

Any advice??


----------



## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Did you make any adjustments? You cant just slap a trem on and call it a day. Watch a couple of youtube vids . How tight the screws are at mounting, how to adjust the claw are all important things to consider


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

knight_yyz said:


> Did you make any adjustments? You cant just slap a trem on and call it a day. Watch a couple of youtube vids . How tight the screws are at mounting, how to adjust the claw are all important things to consider


I backed off the claw. Didn't do much.


----------



## cbg1 (Mar 27, 2012)

Do you have the front screws too tight ?


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

cbg1 said:


> Do you have the front screws too tight ?


Define "front screws"


----------



## JBFairthorne (Oct 11, 2014)

Front screws....the ones closest to the headstock that mount the base plate for the trem to the body. They’ll be on the neck side to the plate. They need to be loose enough to allow the trem to shift up and down. If they are too tight they will raise the back edge of the trem plate off the body of the guitar.


----------



## Latole (Aug 11, 2020)

If I clearly understand your strory: 
What it seems to me is that the guitar, the tremolo was very poorly adjusted or installed from the beginning.
You don't seem to have found the cause and you replaced the tremolo at random.
Bad choice.

Or you may not know how a tremolo should work ? 

Post good pictures


----------



## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

You have to make a decision before you set up your 6 screw or 2 point trem. IE do you want to pull on it for a half step or up to 2 steps? Or do you only want to push down on it for 1/2 to 2 steps, or would you like it to do both? If you can pull the trem arm and change pitch and push on the trem arm to change pitch means your trem is floating. Once you figure that out, then you can start your setup.


----------



## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

SWLABR said:


> Define "front screws"


the 6 screws along the front of the bridge plate. They are not to be tightened all the way.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Ah, "front screws". Yes, those are not cranked down. I put them in without string tension. I screwed them in while keeping a light touch on the saddles. As soon as the back of the trem came up (even a little) I stopped, then backed them off it it sat flush again.
The trem claw is almost all the way buried into the body.
I cannot get it to sit flush!!!

I should also say, I have (or have had) many, many Strats and Partsacasters. I have installed new, installed better, or taken off and reinstalled dozens of Strat trems. This has never happened.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Did some You-Tubing. I did exactly this!!! 






... I started it at 3:15 cause that's when he gets to the example of the "vintage" trem. (6 screws)


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

What gauge strings do you have on it?


----------



## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Maybe the back trem rout is just not deep enough- long enough- to allow the springs to be stretched to the appropriate tension?
Post a couple of pictures and I might be able to figure it out. If your saddles are quite high this will also increase the pull on the trem springs.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

This is the "troubled" bridge. See how far the claw screws are in, but how much the back of the trem is up.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

This is another Strat. I picked this cause it is also has a Wilkinson bridge. Works as good as Fender bridge. Trem sits flush, claw is not nearly as cranked in


----------



## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

There are springs out there with varying degrees of resistance. Factors include gauge of wire used in the spring, overall length and amount of temper.
This is probably why you are seeing different results in the bridge settings.
I didn't watch the vids. but I will quickly mention setup: 
With guitar loosely strung (not tuned to pitch) and springs removed:
6 screw mount style: loosen the screws until the bridge has travelled as far forward as it can and the screw heads are not in contact with the bridge plate.
Begin tightening the screws until the heads come into contact with the bridge plate and begin moving the bridge back down, then back the screw off just a hair...do this with the remaining screws. 
Install the springs,tune the guitar and set the spring distance to suit you taste.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

loudtubeamps said:


> There are springs out there with varying degrees of resistance. Factors include gauge of wire used in the spring, overall length and amount of temper.
> This is probably why you are seeing different results in the bridge settings.
> I didn't watch the vids. but I will quickly mention setup:
> With guitar loosely strung (not tuned to pitch) and springs removed:
> ...


I think I'm starting to sound like a broken record... ha, ha!! But, yep, did all this. I had other springs from an old build. Tried them thinking individual tensions might vary. No change. 

This is giving me fits now! I know it has to be something simple. Three different trems, same result, but it was not like this when I got it. The thing sat flat!


----------



## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

SWLABR said:


> Ah, "front screws". Yes, those are not cranked down. I put them in without string tension. I screwed them in while keeping a light touch on the saddles. As soon as the back of the trem came up (even a little) I stopped, then backed them off it it sat flush again.
> The trem claw is almost all the way buried into the body.
> I cannot get it to sit flush!!!
> 
> I should also say, I have (or have had) many, many Strats and Partsacasters. I have installed new, installed better, or taken off and reinstalled dozens of Strat trems. This has never happened.


Unless you block the trem. using a wedge to lock it from moving you will have a hard time getting it flush with the body.
I am not sure why you want it flush, obvious answer is to drop pitch only??
If this is what you want and 3 springs with claw fully tightened is not doing it then the only alternatives are :using a lighter string gauge or adding more springs.


----------



## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Reading the initial post again...sorry. I'm better now...second cup of coffee.
The only other variables: the block is coming into contact with the body preventing the assembly from sitting flush or the mounting holes are not quite the same spacing as the original and the screws are binding the plate prohibiting it from sitting flat.
If all else fails and it's not the block coming into contact with the body...Try backing off the string tension and remove all but the (2) outside bridge plate screws and see if that makes any difference.


----------



## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Did you get the right bridge? Vintage vs modern spacing? There are 5 different sizes for Fender.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

knight_yyz said:


> Did you get the right bridge? Vintage vs modern spacing? There are 5 different sizes for Fender.
> 
> 
> View attachment 344603


Yep. 52.5mm


----------



## vokey design (Oct 24, 2006)

Hey @SWLABR, if you want to drop it off at my place I can have a look for you. I have lots on my plate right now so it may take me a few days to get to it but I am happy to help out.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

vokey design said:


> Hey @SWLABR, if you want to drop it off at my place I can have a look for you. I have lots on my plate right now so it may take me a few days to get to it but I am happy to help out.


PM'd


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Is the trem spring cavity shorter?


----------



## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

gtrguy said:


> Is the trem spring cavity shorter?


Good point, also, along with that, are the blocks the same height ?


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

They are virtually identical bridge, on identical guitars. And, it used to sit flush!!


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Any difference in the locations of the holes for the springs on the block of the replacement bridge(s) versus the original? Is there any tension on the springs with the strings slack? Some decent pics would go a long way...


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

gtrguy said:


> Any difference in the locations of the holes for the springs on the block of the replacement bridge(s) versus the original? Is there any tension on the springs with the strings slack? Some decent pics would go a long way...


Decent pics?? Are the ones on page 1 crappy?? ha, ha... 

I can take pics from a specific angle if you have something in mind.


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

SWLABR said:


> Decent pics?? Are the ones on page 1 crappy?? ha, ha...
> 
> I can take pics from a specific angle if you have something in mind.


Sorry, the pics weren’t showing up for me a few minutes ago.

If there is tension on the springs with the strings slack and the bridge is still tilted forward then something is physically preventing it from sitting flush. Perplexing.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

gtrguy said:


> Sorry, the pics weren’t showing up for me a few minutes ago.
> 
> If there is tension on the springs with the strings slack and the bridge is still tilted forward then something is physically preventing it from sitting flush. Perplexing.


It will sit flush when I slack the strings. If no strings, the bridge will float/sit/dive to any position. 

I am really confused why this one (the guitar has had many bridges, they all do it) has issues, no other guitar I've owned has.


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

If it sits flush when you slacken the strings then there simply isn’t enough tension on the springs when the strings are at pitch to counteract the string tension. Why is that occurring with the replacement bridges and not the stock one (assuming you’re using the same springs)? It can only be a difference in the distance between the two anchor points for the springs. Personally, I’d screw the spring claw in a bit more.

As an aside- are you by chance using heavier gauge strings than it had previously?


----------



## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

Can you push the block to deck it ? I'd be looking for a screw dropped down the front side of the block. 
If the block does move, I'd be checking all your springs again looking for the tightest ones...or shorter ones. 
Failing that , time to clip the springs.


----------



## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Given the current info, wouldn't the next step be simply snugging the claw all the way and / or adding another spring?


----------



## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

If you're looking for extra springs








Kijiji - Buy, Sell & Save with Canada's #1 Local Classifieds
 

Visit Kijiji Classifieds to buy, sell, or trade almost anything! New and used items, cars, real estate, jobs, services, vacation rentals and more virtually anywhere.




www.kijiji.ca


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Thanks to the keen eye of a forum member who PM'd me to ask: _Are the length of the back cavities the same?_

Well, they are not! The "troubled" one was 4 1/2" whereas the "good" one was a hair under 5". With that knowledge, I tracked down the original springs. They were the exact same length as the ones I had on, but I guess they were not the same tension.

I am happy to report a snuggly sitting trem bridge!

This is truly a place where the wealth of knowledge flows greatly and freely!!

Thanks to all for their input, feedback, guidance and two-cents.

EDIT: And @gtrguy mentioned in the thread and was seconded by @alwaysflat that I did not catch initially.


----------



## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

#24 • 13 d ago 



gtrguy said:


> Is the trem spring cavity shorter?


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

gtrguy said:


> #24 • 13 d ago


Yes, I noticed that you had suggested this as well. I did not catch it at the time. My bad


----------

