# Binding...



## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

I figure it's about time I learned how to go about using binding. it seems to be popular, it looks pretty fancy, but I havn't the slightest idea how to use it.


I have a couple of questions:

A) How do you go about gluing it onto the edges of the body? How easily does a basic plastic binding bend, do you use bar clamps to hold it down?

B) I notice that on most guitars it seems to be fairly smooth, I'm guessing it gets sanded down quite a bit?

C) Do you just put tape over it when spraying lacquer?


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

Hypno Toad said:


> I figure it's about time I learned how to go about using binding. it seems to be popular, it looks pretty fancy, but I havn't the slightest idea how to use it.



I haven't done it but 

I have a couple of questions:

A) How do you go about gluing it onto the edges of the body? How easily does a basic plastic binding bend, do you use bar clamps to hold it down?
_Crazy glue and tape is common . You may have to clap tight ections
_

B) I notice that on most guitars it seems to be fairly smooth, I'm guessing it gets sanded down quite a bit?

_The hard part is that it has to be scraped off with razor blades etc
_
C) Do you just put tape over it when spraying lacquer?

Yeah

great vid 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7l5GSNYfiCI


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## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

Thanks for the reply.

Well, I'm only building electrics, but I suppose the same thing apples. Forgot you could just round the edges with a table router (need to get or build a table for my router)

I was asking in the context of how it's done on PRS guitars and Rickenbackers, probably should have mentioned that kqoct

http://taygun.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/rickenbacker-4003-bass.jpg

http://www.leadguitars.fr/images/PRS-Custom-24-bc-593444.jpg


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

Hypno Toad said:


> I figure it's about time I learned how to go about using binding. it seems to be popular, it looks pretty fancy, but I havn't the slightest idea how to use it.
> 
> 
> I have a couple of questions:
> ...


OK, here is something I can actually help with, having done a ton of binding in both wood, ABS (most common) and Ivroid.

First, I assume you will be using ABS - the most common type of plastic binding. Lets break it down into steps...

1- the binding is glued into a channel which is routed on the edge of the guitar. Binding is available in many widths and thicknesses, and it is very important to get the proper cutter for your router to cut the binding channel. It is usually cut just a little LESS deep than the binding is thick, spo when the binding is glues on, it is slightly proud of the surface of the guitar to allow for scraping/sanding of the binding flush with the wood surface.

2- glue - I like to use good old model airplane cement to glue in the binding. There are many brands (Sigment, Ambroid, etc) and also guitar places like Stuart macdonald sell a "branded" glue for binding - but the model cement works great and is very cheap. I buy it from hobby shops...

To glue in binding, I pre-bend the binding by warming it up with a heat gun, and then apply the gue liberally onto the binding, or on the channel. Press the binding down around the channel, and while holding it down and tight, use maskign tape to hold it in place. The glue, which contains acetone, will dissolve the binding and thats why it holds so well - and also, the melted binding will squeeze out between the binding and channel and fill any small gaps or imperfections.

The glue dries in a few hours, I generally try and leave the tape on for 1/2 day, then remove it.

You can also use CA glue (superglue) and I have done many guitars with it. But, it is very unforgiving, and youhaver to work fast. It is messy and can get all over your hands. It also doesnt melt the bidning, and you will probably have small gaps to fill afterwards.

3- to finish the binding afterwards, I use a sharp cabinet scraper, cutting on an angle to prevent chattering, to scrape the binding flush with the wood. You can sand it, but ABS melts and gums up sandpaper quickly. Scraping works great and then sand with 220 to finish it up

4- when finishing, it all depends what you want. If I am staining a guitar, I mask off the binding during the color coats, then unmask and spray my clear over it. You can also leave the binding masked and put no finish on it, but then you will have a ridge you will feel. I like to spray the clear over the binding personally.

Sometimes I also spray my color over the binding, and then take a single edge razor blade and scrape the binding back to natural, and then do my clear. Thats just a different way of doing it. Masking is easier in the long run IMO but you need a good, thin (narrow) masking tape. Automotive trimline tape it best.



Wood bindings are treated differently, as you need to bend them with heat first, then I use white wood glue to glue them on. 

Hoep that helps some..

AJC


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## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

Thanks, that was all very useful. I always thought that binding was struck over top of the edge, and just sanded down to a smooth beveled sort of shape.

Can you just use a basic straight router bit to cut the channels along the edges? Obviously you'd have to set the the router table up carefully for the job, but I don't see why you would need a special bit unless you were looking to save time.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

you dont need a special bit per say, but the bit is a straight bit with a bearing(s) which can be swapped to give a different depth of cut.

Its basically a rabbeting bit, with custom sized bearings to gove you the proper depth for standard binding sizes.

AJC


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## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

Ah, I see what you mean. I guess that's mostly for convenience and time saving, I could always set up a router table to do the same job with a straight bit. Obviously it would take a lot longer to adjust it, but on the bright side I don't need to buy another bit


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

Hypno Toad said:


> Ah, I see what you mean. I guess that's mostly for convenience and time saving, I could always set up a router table to do the same job with a straight bit. Obviously it would take a lot longer to adjust it, but on the bright side I don't need to buy another bit


You would have to have a pin to follow if you are using a router table.

The idea is to cut a uniform depth channel... without either a bearing or a pin to guide against I doint see how it could be done.

AJC


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## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

Edit:

oh crap, forgot about the inwards curves :/

yeah, I guess a pin setup of some sort would be the best. Will have to figure out something for that. Looking into it some more, seems stewmac sells router bits, you should have told me 

Figures, i suppose. I'm always ordering stuff from there anyways so I may as well get one of those.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

how in the world can you follow the outline of a body on a fence though? You know, the waist and cut away?

I made an over head pin, which can guide on the body and you adjust the backset of the pin to cut the proper depth. But a fence wont work - atleast I cant see how??

AJC


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## Hypno Toad (Aug 1, 2009)

Yeah, realized that part way through the post and edited it 

I'll just go for one of those stewmac bits. 20 bucks is a light investment anyways.


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