# Fat Neck Les Paul



## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Good morning, I'm building a custom Les Paul style guitar for a friend. He has issues with his fretting hand, which causes pain when gripping the guitar neck. He has determined that a very large neck reduces the pain significantly, which allows him to play. So he contacted me to see if I could build him this guitar with a very large neck.










I've been wanting to build a fixture for a while to hold a Les Paul carved top style body on my CNC machine so I can machine the PUP routes and neck pocket at the correct angle. So I have this designed but I still have to actually build it.

The CAD design -









and the 3d Model in my CAM software










and here is the wood selection.










Cheers Peter.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

R9 spec neck then?


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Budda said:


> R9 spec neck then?



LOL - yeah - close to that.🤣


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

R9 is hardly a very large neck. Its the second smallest with R0 being the smallest. R7 is the largest. I owned an R7 and loved that baseball bat neck.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

guitarman2 said:


> R9 is hardly a very large neck. Its the second smallest with R0 being the smallest. R7 is the largest. I owned an R7 and loved that baseball bat neck.


My techs R9 has a pretty big neck. Fatter than any studio, trad or standard i've played.


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## guitarman2 (Aug 25, 2006)

Budda said:


> My techs R9 has a pretty big neck. Fatter than any studio, trad or standard i've played.



Which traditional did you have? I had a 50's traditional, has the 50's neck profile and it was bigger than the one r9 that I've played. 60's traditional has the slim taper. I don't know as much about studio's but the ones I've casually picked up weren't big necks. The R7 is the biggest neck I've ever had on a Gibson. Similar to Fenders Nocaster U. Everybodys idea of a big neck is different. Some may think that the R9 is a big neck but its too slim for me.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

guitarman2 said:


> Which traditional did you have? I had a 50's traditional, has the 50's neck profile and it was bigger than the one r9 that I've played. 60's traditional has the slim taper. I don't know as much about studio's but the ones I've casually picked up weren't big necks. The R7 is the biggest neck I've ever had on a Gibson. Similar to Fenders Nocaster U. Everybodys idea of a big neck is different. Some may think that the R9 is a big neck but its too slim for me.


I had done the les paul blitz at L&M when we thought we had secured a Gibson deal (ha). I think they had both the 50s and 60s trads in stock but honestly can't remember. I like the '59 carve of the studio and custom. Haven't had the fortune of trying an R7 yet. I like the Nocaster U on F-style builds, but I go slimmer on G-style I think. PRS wide-fat works well for me also.

I look forward to seeing this build proceed!


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## Smylight (Jun 28, 2016)

I've had a '59 LP for a very long time, whose neck was the typical carve, in-between 58 and 60 slim-taper. 

Now I have an R8, which replaced it, and the neck is substantially beefier. That's why I chose it over an R9 at the time. My Oxblood R4 is somewhat larger still, by a small margin. Both are very comfortable to these old hands.

You should have him try an R4 before he settles on a carve. I suspect he'll find it more comfortable still.


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## pickslide (May 9, 2006)

This is the neck on my Cindy custom guitar. Dont know if it comes out so great in the picture but it is easily the largest neck on any guitar I have ever picked up. This is the boatneck that Rick Kelly taught her and uses. Over 1 inch thick all the way. 

Cindy insisted that even with her small hands, this huge neck is more comfortable than anything...and I have to agree. I think your friend will love the huge neck and it will help him play more.


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## StevieMac (Mar 4, 2006)

I consider the R5's neck to be the "Goldilocks" among Gibson carves. Definitely substantial in the hand but it never feels like _too_ much. It's absolutely perfect for me and is the carve I'll be asking to have reproduced on my Jr project.


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## Cardamonfrost (Dec 12, 2018)

R9 is too thin for me. My R8, which is noticeably thicker (instantly) is much more comfortable to me. I have a 52 Esquire copy I am working on that has a Allparts nocaster U and that is the standard for fat necks (pretty much 1 inch , no taper, deep c or d shape). I suspect it will be too large for me but I'll find out when it's done. The only way to know is play them. For a long time.
C


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I decided to switch out the top wood on this build for book matched plain hard maple. This will be a gold top guitar, so no need to have a figured top. Also the flame maple I had there was soft maple and we have tons of maple around these parts so I bought a nice chunk of 8/4 rough cut white hard maple.

rough cut plank -









jointed -









re-sawed - note the smoke. I guess it's time for a new blade? ;-)










thickness sanded and edges jointed. Ready for glue up.










Should make a very nice top.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Glue up day yesterday. Thicknessed the top closer to final spec and glued up. Very nice piece of white hard maple.










Cheers Peter.


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## jdto (Sep 30, 2015)

This should be a fun one


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## Jon Matisz (Jul 9, 2020)

Did I read that right, 1.2" from nut to heal? I have a Warmoth neck that I bought 6-7 years ago on a tele that is 1" all the way through and I thought it was a big neck!


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## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

I have been waiting for you to build a LP, P-90's and it will be perfect!


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## DeegzARG (Aug 4, 2017)

Beautiful choice of woods Peter. Definitely looking forward to this build


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Got around to cutting the fret board. We're using hard maple trap inlays with a rosewood fret board with maple binding. Cut a small piece of maple and thicknessed on the CNC machine.









then cut the trap inlays.









routed the inlay pockets and glued the inlays into the flat board. I left it on the CNC machine and will radius and slot after the glue dries.










radius










and finshed up. I love using wood as inlay material because you can cut it almost exactly the same size. The glue makes the wood expand and you get great gapless inlays.



















Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I cut a strip of the same material I used for the inlays for the binding. Then re-sawed it down to about 1/8" and then stuck it to a piece of rosewood to bring it down to final thickness.


















I also managed to thickness the body blank and machine the indexing holes in the top and back as well as cut the wire channel.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

So I cut the wire channel in the Mahogany body blank. So my next procedure is to drill index holes in the top and cut the under side of the top for the recess of the control cavity and switch cavity. You can see the hidden lines underneath the top in this image from Fusion 360. My CAM software.










I've matched the top carve ending up with about a 3/16" top thickness in those areas. So I index the maple blank upside down on the CNC and carve those recesses.










then I can flip it over and glue it onto the body blank. I've started to clamp the maple side down so the glue doesn't drop into the wire channel. I also use the indexing pins to perfectly align the top with the body and I should hopefully see the wire channel and recesses in the correct position when I machine the back and front later on.

Time to get out all my clamps.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Quick update - cut the control and switch cavities and cover recesses in the back. Always relieved to see the wire channel in the right spot. 










Cheers Peter.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

You're really quite mad you know.

I'm just saying.



Silvertone said:


> Got around to cutting the fret board. We're using hard maple trap inlays with a rosewood fret board with maple binding. Cut a small piece of maple and thicknessed on the CNC machine.
> View attachment 349351
> 
> 
> ...


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

You think that is mad? Look at this - angled fixture to hold a Les Paul body at the correct angle to route the neck and pup routes.










and this one is every crazier! - compound angle to cut the secondary control route for the underside of the cavity to match the top carve of a vintage LP. This one is gonna take a bit more time.









Cheers Peter.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Silvertone said:


> You think that is mad? Look at this - angled fixture to hold a Les Paul body at the correct angle to route the neck and pup routes.
> 
> View attachment 350078
> 
> ...



Crazy like a fox eh?

Awesome.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Milkman said:


> Crazy like a fox eh?
> 
> Awesome.


I'm not so sure. I would hate to keep track of the amount of time I have spent on this. Oh well. What else can I do in my spare time?


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## bzrkrage (Mar 20, 2011)

Milkman said:


> You're really quite mad you know.
> 
> I'm just saying.


Following. Mad as a Covid Hatter me thinks! 
Magic Peter, thanks for sharing.


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## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Silvertone said:


> I'm not so sure. I would hate to keep track of the amount of time I have spent on this. Oh well. *What else can I do in my spare time?*


Could you build me a Strat neck to those dimensions??


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

SWLABR said:


> Could you build me a Strat neck to those dimensions??


I could!


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Flipped it over and carved the top, marked for the switch and pot holes with a tiny bit and cut the body out of the blank.

rough top carve - 









half way through finish carve - 









finished - 









Some interesting fun facts; 10 mins for rough carve and 12 minutes for finish carve.

Cutout - 









Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

and some glamour shots - 














































Cheers Peter.


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## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Silvertone said:


> I could!


Awesome, let me know when your workload clears and we can discuss.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Silvertone said:


> I'm not so sure. I would hate to keep track of the amount of time I have spent on this. Oh well. What else can I do in my spare time?


Oh I hear that. I'd shudder to think of what a real price would be including all your time and materials alone, forget about the programming and research et cetera.

I think maybe you do this because you love it, or because you have a longer view goal (maybe both).

Either way, it's great to follow along.

Thanks.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I finished up my base outline for the angled ramp. The idea is to make different bases for different guitars. My Les Paul Standard has a neck angle of about 4 degrees. So I have wedges to hold the ramp at that angle. Then I create a base with the outline of the body on it and index it on the ramp.

You can see the bare ramp in the above pictures. Here is the base outline for the LP Standard.

Fusion 360 model - 









I cut it out of 1/4" MDF because that is all I had handy.










test fit around the body - 









indexed to the ramp jig set at about 4 degrees - 









Place the body on the ramp inside the base outline - 










Seeing as this is the first time I have cut these angled routes I marked in pencil where they should be cut and ran the process in air to make sure they were aligned properly. They looked pretty good.

Cheers Peter.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

What finish is this getting?


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Budda said:


> What finish is this getting?


I'm building it for a friend who will be finishing it himself. It will be a solid colour top but not sure what colour. He also didn't want binding. I think he's doing a faux binding.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Double checked my toolpaths and adjusted my stock in Fusion 360 so I could touch off the top of the body at the neck plane.









Ran a couple times in air to make sure everything was good and then cut the neck mortise and pup routes.



























Cheers Peter.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Wow, am I ever enjoying watching the process. Thanks for sharing!


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Now that you have the angles right, you might make a few bucks doing them. Be lots (some?) of demand for made to order, at better quality woods etc than the import choices. At the right $, I’d buy something like this, unfinished to throw in/on my own choices. Warmoth is ridiculous these days.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

keto said:


> Now that you have the angles right, you might make a few bucks doing them. Be lots (some?) of demand for made to order, at better quality woods etc than the import choices. At the right $, I’d buy something like this, unfinished to throw in/on my own choices. Warmoth is ridiculous these days.


What's ridiculous? The Honduran Mahogany body blank alone is $200. When I tell people I build guitars they say, hey can you build me one for $100. Can't go by what Walmart and Bestbuy for prices.

Cheers Peter.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

My last body finished was north of $700, bass neck not a lot less than a grand.


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## electricb (Jul 24, 2013)

Any updates on this? I love seeing the CNC build!


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Should be some soon. I'm just finishing off the Moderne builds and that is next on the list. Thanks for the bump!

Cheers Peter.


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## vokey design (Oct 24, 2006)

Love the inlay choice


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Thanks. Here is a quick update of getting back on this build. Now that the Moderne build is pretty much wrapped up. My friend wanted to go with all wood binding, covers, and even pickguard. 










I also just glued up the maple binding on the fret board. I used another fret board in my bench vise to apply even pressure.










the next morning I glued up the other side.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I trimmed the binding on the sides and added the binding to the end. The maple binding and inlay looks in the dark rosewood board.

glue up -









placed it in my radius sanding jig and went through the grits up to 600. I marked the maple with red pencil and the rosewood with yellow after each grit to make sure I took enough off with each grit.










Nice, smooth and shiny ready for frets -









Cheers Peter.


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## jdto (Sep 30, 2015)

Man, I love that with the wood inlays. Will you be putting some sort of finish on it, or just let the maple get a natural patina over time?


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

jdto said:


> Man, I love that with the wood inlays. Will you be putting some sort of finish on it, or just let the maple get a natural patina over time?


I have also given this a bit of thought but I am building this for a friend as an unfinished kit. I will mention that to him regarding the maple and how it will age over time and he can make that decision.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Neck blank into the CNC machine.









head stock angle roughing and finishing passes -


















followed up by truss rod channel -









Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Added some maple filler strips. It's nice having more space because of the thickness of the neck. Usually I do not do filler strips over two way rods but have lots of space here. No pics of clamped up. Once dry I just put it on my bandsaw and setup the fence at the correct width and trimmed down to about 1/16".









Probably could've went tighter but then I wouldn't get to use my hand plane. ;-) Lots of reasons to keep the blank as square as possible for as long as possible.

Cleaned up with plane, scraper, and chisel at the head stock.


















I marked out the neck profile on the side and will cut out outside of the line. I'm trying to minimize the amount of wood that the CNC machine has to take. No point in cutting more than I have to. It will cut mostly air but I could make a stock body the same size as my template and use that for the CNC machine, which would make things quicker.



















Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I cut the neck blank down to size to get ready for machining the profile and somewhat final shape.


















Into the CNC machine using the index pins I drilled in both top and bottom of the neck, so the alignment is correct -









rough carve -









finish carve -









4 degree angle tenon shoulders -









and cut out / taper -









Cheers Peter.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

The level of precision in these builds almost makes me giddy.

I love these threads.

Thanks for sharing.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Milkman said:


> The level of precision in these builds almost makes me giddy.
> 
> I love these threads.
> 
> Thanks for sharing.


Thanks. I'm starting to get better with the CAM side of it. Lots of testing speeds and feeds and orders of operations. I had a couple catastrophic failures, just like one would have with a router and template. I had one of the necks head stock explode when I was cutting too deep a pass and in the wrong direction. Lesson learned. I still have a couple of issues but the necks are cutting really nicely now. Here is a little video I made of this whole process for this specific neck. I have 4 procedures here and the last one you can see I manually cut out some wood that could've been an issue. I might add one more procedure to take care of that. Once that is done I can use the dust collector and just let it run, with some confidence. Most of the time I hover over the machine with my hand on the emergency stop button. 🤣 




  






Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I fit the neck tonight. I chiseled out the radius left by the bit I used to cut the shoulders and used thin strip sand paper to fine tune the neck joint.









mockup -







]

neck joint -









Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Working on the head stock. Flattened the head stock edges with a scraper and planed and cut some ears. 









Clamped in my bench vise










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

flattened the ears to the face of the head stock









thicknessed the ears to the back of the head stock.









Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Onto the head stock veneer. I'm using a hard maple head stock veneer with a Gibson style logo. Here are the initial design choices.









Decided to go with the "Longer" logo.

Import into Fusion 360 for CAM and setup all the tool paths.










I grabbed a block of hard maple and jointed and thickness sanded and cut out on the CNC.



















I decided to just use the maple as the inlay and cut out a pocket all the way around it to fill with black epoxy. The head stock will be painted black and then the logo scraped to reveal the maple underneath. Similar to how Gibson did this with their MOP logos.

Filled with black slow set epoxy.









I'll give that a couple days to cure and then thickness sand down to reveal the inlay.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I use slow set epoxy and it takes a few days to setup. The upside is it flows out nice and there are never any air bubbles.









Thickness sanded down through the epoxy to expose the inlay. 










Sliced off about 1/8" off then thicknessed down to 1/16" or so.










clamped up onto the head stock.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

More work on the head stock. I cut very close to the line of the head stock outline created from my template. Then put the head stock template back on and sanded a little closer.










Flush trimmed with the router table.









Then cleaned up the veneer outline, cut truss rod access, and rough sanded the transition from neck to head stock.



















and a quick mockup.









Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

broke out the glue pot and some M&H 192 HHG. First time using this stuff and it went really well. Measured up some glue and water. Then cooked it up for a little while.









Set up the clamps, wiped both surfaces with naptha, and got out the heat gun to warm up the surfaces. This stuff was very easy to work with compared with the last HHG I had. The old stuff was quite a bit stronger gram strength wise which made it much more difficult to work.

All clamped up and wiped with hot water to clean up the squeeze out. Looking forward to unclamping and checking it out.










I'll throw the rest in the fridge and use it to set the neck once I am ready.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Unclamped and cleaned up the glue. Joint looks good.


















Checked the neck fit and that also looks good. I still have to clean up the fret board face and sand the top and sides of the body as well as round over and jack hole. 



















I'll probably do frets soon.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Time for frets. I cleaned the board, finish sanded, cleaned out and checked slots for depth. Then bent some wire. Cut it up into 22 nice little slightly over bent pieces and got out all my other fretting supplies.









The fret ends will sit over top of the maple binding so I will nip the fret tangs on both sides of each fret and then press them in.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Frets are in and ends trimmed. I checked all the slot depths with the Stew Mac fret slot depth gauge. This is one of those tools that are extremely handy. It's easy to miss a shallow slot, or saw dust buildup or some foreign debris in a slot. 









a shot down the board -









I laid out the tuners on a test piece because these are a little longer than the standard and wanted to make sure I had some wiggle room. Cut a quite head stock template out of some 1/2" plywood and test fit. Looks good.









and test mounted, pre-drilling all the screw holes, the tuners.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Filed the frets nice and smooth and installed side dots.









Sanded the top carve, just to take off the machining marks and added the 3/16" round over to the back -










Also drilled the jack hole. I mirrored Tom Bartlett's 59 plans and printed out a copy and drew up a centreline.









I have been using a 1" spot facer, or counterbore, for jack holes recently. They turn out quite nice with little chance of tearout or mis-alignment. I start with a medium length 3/16" diameter brad point bit and use the 3/16" hole as a pilot.










finished product - 









Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

I drilled the switch and pot holes to the correct size and angle and test fit some hardware.

I program the CNC machine to drill very small holes 1/16" dia to locate the pots and switch. Then I drill perpedicular to the top surface with a 1/4" brad point bit and follow it through with a step drill to the correct diameter. Here you can see the tiny locates.









I added some pots, knobs, and switch with poker chip to make sure everything fits as it should.










knobs sit parallel to the top carve -









and look good on the inside with lots of room for wiring. This is a vintage correct primary cavity but I have CNC'd a parallel carve into the underside of the top at a consistent thickness.










Just used some bulk pots I have to test.

Cheers Peter.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Man i wanna try this when its done..


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Fired up the HHG pot and set the neck tonight. I guess it helps that it's 90 degrees outside. I turned the air conditioning off and let everything warm up. I still can't get over the difference between this HHG and the other stuff I was using. This stuff is quite thin and stays workable for much much longer. Really nice stuff. I'm gonna let this sit clamped for 24hrs or so.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Cleaned up and lightly sanded the glue off the joints. Looks good.



























I also located the wrap tail, drilled and installed ground wire, and pressed in bushings. I have a couple of bolts with the same threads as these bushings and pressed them in with my drill press. I put a large diameter bit, upside down and bottomed out in the press and push them in. This works really well.



















I like to slightly recess the bushings. No chance of hitting them when buffing and I can place some tape on top for finish.

Cheers Peter.


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## BlueRocker (Jan 5, 2020)

Silvertone said:


> Fired up the HHG pot and set the neck tonight. I guess it helps that it's 90 degrees outside.


Wow - read this too fast and read it as a 90 degree neck angle! Really nice job and cool thread thanks,


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

BlueRocker said:


> Wow - read this too fast and read it as a 90 degree neck angle! Really nice job and cool thread thanks,


That would be a bit steep. 🤣 It's probably closer to 4 degrees or so. Could be a little shallower with the wrap tail as it is a little shorter than an ABR-1.

Cheers Peter.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Silvertone said:


> Fired up the HHG pot and set the neck tonight. I guess it helps that it's 90 degrees outside. I turned the air conditioning off and let everything warm up. I still can't get over the difference between this HHG and the other stuff I was using. This stuff is quite thin and stays workable for much much longer. Really nice stuff. I'm gonna let this sit clamped for 24hrs or so.
> 
> View attachment 377508
> 
> ...


Looks great!
What glue are you using?

Nathan


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

nnieman said:


> Looks great!
> What glue are you using?
> 
> Nathan


Milligan and Higgins 192 gram strength HHG. Great stuff. I ordered 5 lbs from Highland Woodworking in Atlanta Georgia. I was using the stuff from Lee Valley - granules at 260 gram strength and the open time was way too short. Didn't like it at all.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Cut out some back cover plates tonight. I laid out in CAD and printed out the screw location. I find there isn't much room in the switch cavity cover route for the screws, so wanted to align the screws correctly. Lots of room for the control cavity cover though.

Printed out and placed in the cover routes and marked screw placement. I had to move the screws out slightly on the switch cavity so they were closer to the middle of the recess.










re-sawed a couple pieces of maple and thickness sanded them - 









laid out on the CNC - 









cut out and marked holes with 1/16" drill -









Drilled the holes larger to fit the screws and countersunk the screw heads slightly for a nice fit.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Working on some hard maple pickup rings for this build. Just modeling them up in Fusion 360 currently.





















I thickened the sides and top a bit so they are a little more sturdy. They should machine OK as I am using a fairly small cutter. It will be interesting.

and 4 speed knobs as well - 









Cheers Peter.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Wonderful thread and beautiful guitar!
You are such a skilled artisan.
Thanks for all of the pics and info.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Setup the stock in the CNC -









and the finished ring -



















The ring is much whiter in person. I had the window open and the morning light is a little orange.

I was quite happy with the way these turned out... Until I tried to put a pickup inside DOAH. I had this ring model done previously for a model I created a while back. But didn't check it against a pup ring IRL. Oh well. Back to the drawing board. I have a few M69 rings sitting around so I'll measure them up and make another model for Fusion 360.










Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Updated CAD - after measuring a few pups and pup rings. They seem to be quite consistent, which is nice.









I modified the design a little bit and modeled in Fusion 360.




















Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

round 2 - cut on CNC -



















much better fit on this OX4 pickup -









and in the bridge position -










I am happy with this one and happy that do not have to go to round 3. :thumbs:

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Almost done with this one. Finished up wooden pup rings, and knobs. Quick intonation test on the Mojoaxe compensated wrap tail. Just have to ream the tuners for the bushings and this one will get shipped off to the deep south. LOL That's what I call it anyway.

Hard maple knobs cut on the CNC -










and a quick mock up -



















Final sanding, setup, and finish to be done by my friend "down south". This one was a lot of fun.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

Back on this one to finish up. Cut out the hard maple pick guard. Same size as a 59 LP from the Bartlett plans and matched with a Bartlett plastic 59 guard. Nice to see they are the same. ;-)









Boxed up and off to FedEx on it's way to Georgia. Nice to have this one out of the shop but sad to see it go.  










on to the next...

Cheers Peter.


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