# My Fret File Investigation: Which File(s) Should I Get?



## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

I want to be able to do some of my own guitars fret dressing. Maybe not a big job but to be able to find high frets and level and crown and polish is what I am aiming for.

It would be great if anyone has experience with these files and can tell me which ones you prefer.


So here are the fret files I have been looking at:

Double-Edge Fret Files
$108 CAD for the 3 sizes.

http://www.japarts.ca/Uo-Chikyu/Uo-Chikyu-Products-Fret-Files.as











StewMac Diamond File. 
Right now 20% off so one is $159 CAD. 150 grit and 300 grit files both for $317 CAD.

There are 2 sizes on each file. Diamond encrusted. 20% off sale now.
This is the most expensive but "Unlike traditional fret files, diamond files cut in both directions, they don't chatter or leave chatter marks, and the fret is smoother after crowning. These files are being used by repair shops and major manufacturers all around the world." 
Offset Diamond Fret File | stewmac.com












StewMac Double Edged Fret Files
$55 CAD or $109 For Both Sizes

These are what I may get. For the amount of work I will do, they would be fine, but then again the 
nice diamond files may produce results easier.
Double-edge Fret File | stewmac.com






















DHGate from China
3 Sizes In One File 
$30 CAD plus shipping


Guitar Fret Tools Crowning File Fret Dressing File With 3 Size Edges Luthier Tools For Guitar Polishing Tools Guitar Parts Canada 2020 From Egetmart, CAD $18.68 | DHgate Canada










I have a few more to post later.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Reserved for more files.


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## Smylight (Jun 28, 2016)

Get a StewMac Z-file, or at least another high-quality diamond coated file.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Smylight said:


> Get a StewMac Z-file, or at least another high-quality diamond coated file.


With the Z-file it knocks off the sides but do I still need a crowning file to crown the fret?


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Buy inexpensive ones.
Unless you only do a fret job every other year they will wear out.

I have the japarts ones I like them.
A luthier friend buys from lmii.

I can’t comment on the $30 ones I have never used them.

Nathan


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

nnieman said:


> Buy inexpensive ones.
> Unless you only do a fret job every other year they will wear out.
> 
> I have the japarts ones I like them.
> ...


Who is lmii?


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

Wood and Supplies Guitar Makers - Luthiers Mercantile International, Inc

sorry I meant to include the link

Nathan


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

From what I am reading diamond files give a much better finished job, less tool marks.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

I read a bunch of reviews about this Stewmac diamond file and they are mixed. Comments from they take from the top of the fret too easily to they have changed manufacturers and they are not as good. Yet many others like them, but many of those reviews are quite old. As the reviews get closer in time they seem to be less positive.


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## Smylight (Jun 28, 2016)

player99 said:


> With the Z-file it knocks off the sides but do I still need a crowning file to crown the fret?


IS a crowning file, just watch SM's video about it, you’ll understand how it works. I own every type of crowning files and this one is far easier to work with in my own experience, so IMHO if you are starting out you should get this one. I'm very rarely using any other one anymore.


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Smylight said:


> IS a crowning file, just watch SM's video about it, you’ll understand how it works. I own every type of crowning files and this one is far easier to work with in my own experience, so IMHO if you are starting out you should get this one. I'm very rarely using any other one anymore.
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


I watched the video. I agree with you. From reading a bunch of the reviews I think the safe z file is the one I should get.


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## Smylight (Jun 28, 2016)

player99 said:


> I watched the video. I agree with you. From reading a bunch of the reviews I think the safe z file is the one I should get.


Expensive, but well worth it .


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


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## Jim Wellington (Sep 3, 2017)

player99 said:


> From what I am reading diamond files give a much better finished job, less tool marks.


I have both Stewmac diamond and Uo-Chik Yu files. Unless you work on frets daily I`m not sure the diamond grit is worth the money. Your comment about scratches....You have to use various grits of sand paper and polishing pads to finish the job, so I don`t see where the diamond file is an advantage scratch wise. What I do see, is the diamond files, generally speaking, are at least twice the purchase price, and are what I bought initially. Personally speaking, diamond grit isn`t worth the extra money for me, but buy the one you like regardless of price, if it means you`ll be happier working with it. I paid $130.00 for a fret file I never use instead leaning toward the cheaper one cause it just feels better in my hand and is easier to control....this is a hand skill thing after all. Good luck with your choice.


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## Lord-Humongous (Jun 5, 2014)

I have one of these:
Hiroshima Yasuri Fret End Dressing File - Lee Valley Tools

I’ve successfully used it to smooth some rough fret ends.


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## Swervin55 (Oct 30, 2009)

player99 said:


> I read a bunch of reviews about this Stewmac diamond file and they are mixed. Comments from they take from the top of the fret too easily to they have changed manufacturers and they are not as good. Yet many others like them, but many of those reviews are quite old. As the reviews get closer in time they seem to be less positive.


I'm on my second set of these in a couple of years and have yet a third 300G in the mail. I do work for friends and family so not extensive usage. I really like these files but they loose their grit much too soon for what they cost (especially the 300G). The replacements that I speak of are due to SM's excellent warranty/service. So, if I were buying new files today I would likely go with their Z files instead just to give them a try. They seem to have better reviews.

Edit: you can't beat these curved files for access though, especially on a neck that is not removable. And I've never had any issue with removal of the top of the fret with these that some of the reviews talk about. Simply blue the top of the fret, leave a very thin strip of blue when switching to the 300G and remove until gone then stop. Done.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

If you are new and have the $$$ the Z-file is the most fool proof, IMO. I have the Stew Mac diamond file and did not like it initially because it was, I thought, hard to see what was happening. Once I figured it out I use it more like a Z file. Mark the tops with a sharpie after leveling and then slide the file on an angle on each side of the fret. You can see the black disappearing and rotate it slightly to more perpendicular and take a little bit off the line off as you go, on each size. Basically you are using this file like the Z file. End up with something like this -









Just a very thin faint line on the top. I actually take one more pass on that and take the line right off. Then you are ready for polishing and dressing the ends. This file and the Z file are "crowning" files.

Cheers Peter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> With the Z-file it knocks off the sides but do I still need a crowning file to crown the fret?


No - that is what it does. Crowns by knocking off the sides until they meet at the top with a nice barely visible black line from the sharpie.

Cheers Peter.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Silvertone said:


> No - that is what it does. Crowns by knocking off the sides until they meet at the top with a nice barely visible black line from the sharpie.
> 
> Cheers Peter.


Right. From the video I watched the z file requires manual rolling to make the fret round.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> Right. From the video I watched the z file requires manual rolling to make the fret round.


Yeah - I think they all do, to a certain degree. I found the Stew Mac diamond file was either bottoming out or taking too much off the top if I used it perpendicular to the board. I'm no expert, but that may be good if you are not either. I like somewhat tall frets, so I tried to keep most of the height of my fret wire. Also I want to keep my sharpie line on there until the end so I know the frets are still level. I found that difficult with those files unless I started on an angle and rolled slightly. Might just be me. I guess mine are a little more triangular but I do take a pass or two off the top with the diamond file perpendicular to the board. That seems to work out well for me and others that play my guitar seem to like it.

The more you do the better you get. If you do lots and lots you can probably use any cheap tool because you will get the experience. The diamond files work well for me but I think the Z file may be a little better for new people. But then the cost of that file is ridiculous IMO. But it's only $$$. I've got a ton of Stew Mac and Lee Valley stuff that is not a "need". ;-)

Cheers Peter.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Silvertone said:


> Yeah - I think they all do, to a certain degree. I found the Stew Mac diamond file was either bottoming out or taking too much off the top if I used it perpendicular to the board. I'm no expert, but that may be good if you are not either. I like somewhat tall frets, so I tried to keep most of the height of my fret wire. Also I want to keep my sharpie line on there until the end so I know the frets are still level. I found that difficult with those files unless I started on an angle and rolled slightly. Might just be me. I guess mine are a little more triangular but I do take a pass or two off the top with the diamond file perpendicular to the board. That seems to work out well for me and others that play my guitar seem to like it.
> 
> The more you do the better you get. If you do lots and lots you can probably use any cheap tool because you will get the experience. The diamond files work well for me but I think the Z file may be a little better for new people. But then the cost of that file is ridiculous IMO. But it's only $$$. I've got a ton of Stew Mac and Lee Valley stuff that is not a "need". ;-)
> 
> Cheers Peter.


The z files are a little over $150 cad, the diamond offset is over $200 cad.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> The z files are a little over $150 cad, the diamond offset is over $200 cad.


That's weird. Maybe because I already have the diamond file. I thought it was cheaper when I bought it. The diamond files are 20% off right now so they are about the same price. 









I think I would go with the Z file if I didn't already have the other one. I think the "little bone" file is almost the same as well. It's a really short little brass block but it's about $40. Check it out here - LittleBone Fret File I have heard good things about it.

Cheers Peter.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

Silvertone said:


> Check it out here - LittleBone Fret File I have heard good things about it.
> 
> Cheers Peter.


I don't have a little bone(r). Looks very interesting though, I think it would work well. Thanks for the tip!


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Lincoln said:


> I don't have a little bone(r). Looks very interesting though, I think it would work well. Thanks for the tip!


Too bad they don't make a big boner. Then they would have something.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Silvertone said:


> If you are new and have the $$$ the Z-file is the most fool proof, IMO. I have the Stew Mac diamond file and did not like it initially because it was, I thought, hard to see what was happening. Once I figured it out I use it more like a Z file. Mark the tops with a sharpie after leveling and then slide the file on an angle on each side of the fret. You can see the black disappearing and rotate it slightly to more perpendicular and take a little bit off the line off as you go, on each size. Basically you are using this file like the Z file. End up with something like this -
> View attachment 300514
> 
> 
> ...


Is it the photo or is the middle fret very much a triangular shape?


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> Is it the photo or is the middle fret very much a triangular shape?


I noticed that in the photo as well. It must be an optical illusion as it doesn't look like that in real life and not sure it would be possible with the method I used. I will check under a better light and magnification. Must be optical illusion as the next one to the right looks a little triangular and it hadn't been crowned yet. Plays great! ;-)

Cheers Peter.


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## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

player99 said:


> I want to be able to do some of my own guitars fret dressing. Maybe not a big job but to be able to find high frets and level and crown and polish is what I am aiming for.
> 
> It would be great if anyone has experience with these files and can tell me which ones you prefer.
> 
> ...


Please!! I hope you haven't purchased ANY of the files that you're considering! Good on you for extensive research and I hasten to add that many or even all the pictured files are good stuff. BUT: I have a "points" file that I bo't years ago. I used to use it to file ignition points in the distributors of automobile engines, It's intended purpose. I promise you that you are unlikely to find a file that is better suited to fretwork. Its 5 1/4 inches long, 5/16 of an inch wide very thin and rigid. (Of course). Writing etched into the handle says "tungsten, made in Mexico" the abrasive surface is very fine. Best of all the non working outer edges of the file are smooth! I have learned thru experience that I can file fret ends as well as use it to round fret length following fret levelling, with zero danger of damage to the delicate finish of the fretboard. No masking tape neccessary! There are many who will scoff at that claim but it is true. I also refinish guitars, I do a pretty decent job so I am not going to risk marking a fretboard! Now since points and distributors are ancient history, you can't likely score one of these files at Canadian Tire any more but I bet they're available somewhere. Online? By the way I bo't a triple edged crowning file and stopped using it because the points file is better. I do NOT use my sanding/ levelling beam either because even if you have 5 or 6 frets that need filing down why would you damage ALL the frets because of the few. Points file again! Often it's only a small portion of a fret that needs filing down. Keep filing minimal don't increase risk and workload. I guess this amounts to a whole lot of free advice but fret work is delicate business! It is only one step in achieving really low string action. I just had to share the fret process that works for me.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

doblander said:


> Please!! I hope you haven't purchased ANY of the files that you're considering! Good on you for extensive research and I hasten to add that many or even all the pictured files are good stuff. BUT: I have a "points" file that I bo't years ago. I used to use it to file ignition points in the distributors of automobile engines, It's intended purpose. I promise you that you are unlikely to find a file that is better suited to fretwork. Its 5 1/4 inches long, 5/16 of an inch wide very thin and rigid. (Of course). Writing etched into the handle says "tungsten, made in Mexico" the abrasive surface is very fine. Best of all the non working outer edges of the file are smooth! I have learned thru experience that I can file fret ends as well as use it to round fret length following fret levelling, with zero danger of damage to the delicate finish of the fretboard. No masking tape neccessary! There are many who will scoff at that claim but it is true. I also refinish guitars, I do a pretty decent job so I am not going to risk marking a fretboard! Now since points and distributors are ancient history, you can't likely score one of these files at Canadian Tire any more but I bet they're available somewhere. Online? By the way I bo't a triple edged crowning file and stopped using it because the points file is better. I do NOT use my sanding/ levelling beam either because even if you have 5 or 6 frets that need filing down why would you damage ALL the frets because of the few. Points file again! Often it's only a small portion of a fret that needs filing down. Keep filing minimal don't increase risk and workload. I guess this amounts to a whole lot of free advice but fret work is delicate business! It is only one step in achieving really low string action. I just had to share the fret process that works for me.


Is this it?
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25342-2-Piece-Ignition-Utility/dp/B000BYR3BO


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## doblander (Dec 8, 2019)

Yes! That's identical to what I'm preaching about. These are such a fine file that your fingers can manipulate them against the frets as though they are a part of your hand. Fret wire is soft enough that my file shows no wear despite much use but I'm ordering a pair of those just to round out my skimpy collection of luthier tools. So thanks for the link!! Uh oh. Amazon says that currently there are no suppliers who will ship to my location. However there are a coupla outfits in Regina that sell tools. I bet they have ignition files.


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