# How Much Heat to Remove Neck



## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

I have a few projects that are going to need the necks removed, one of which is an SG. 

I don't want to use a heat gun because of how close it is to the neck binding. I was watching a TWOODFORD video on YouTube and he was using a silicone heat pad like used for heating up engine oil with. Checked online, and Amazon has the one he uses but a bit big and has a plug on it, so plug in and no adjustable heat and even the manufacturers site fails to mention max. temperature.

Ebay has a variety of sizes, bare wire ends. Can buy a variable DC power supply, they even have smaller ones like laptop power supplies with a dial and digital display, just add a DC plug to the end of the bare wires. 

What I need to know though is, how hot do you need to soften glue(s) and not burn wood?

They have a 50mmx100mm 15w 12v DC pad, would fit nicely, 30-150'C it claims. That hot enough? or we talking 250'C?


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## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

It is somewhere between a hair dryer and a flamethrower. It is up to you to find the sweet spot


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

cboutilier said:


> It is somewhere between a hair dryer and a flamethrower. It is up to you to find the sweet spot


Not at all helpful I'm afraid... without even a ballpark number, I'm basically just throwing money away on stuff that may not get hot enough.

Shame the sealing irons weren't smaller. Variable heat control up to 228'c/450'f... be good for removing frets and fretboards, but too big to fit into a humbucker cavity.


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Too much.

(sorry, I wouldn't dare remove a set neck. Hopefully someone here who has done so will chime in.)


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## polyslax (May 15, 2020)

Thread at My Les Paul says 140 F.






Removing a set neck.


Ok. I bought this LP custom style body, really inexspensive, made overseas. Not a bad copy but the problem is the guy I bought it from did not set the neck properly. It is off, not enough sanding done and the binding on the neck and the binding on the the cutaway are not fluss. So how do I...




www.mylespaul.com


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

I have an SG where I guess the neck came loose and the previous owner glued it back but not slid in all the way. Can see the back of the heel it's 1/8" out too far. They stripped it of all hardware and I'm still lost as to what they did with the finish.... Looks like they brushed a thin layer of shellac over the satin finish? Not sure. 

But, it's a '61 Reissue SG (I guess technically a Les Paul) solid mahogany not a veneer and neck binding and amber pearl inlays. 

I confirmed the reglued with wood glue, not epoxy thankfully, but looks also like they glued in dowels at 45 degrees to make it stronger... Good idea, but makes my job harder. 

Plan is take the neck off, sand to wood, mahogany/natural nitro finish and debating satin or gloss. Changing the headstock as well... Keeping the Epiphone logo just rather a Gibson shape. 

I also bought a really nice Emperador acoustic, 1970's but looks almost new. Nut worn right down, saddle lowered right down, strings high... $50. Bought it to learn acoustic neck resets.


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## BlueRocker (Jan 5, 2020)

Sounds like an interesting project, please share your progress I'd love to see that.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

Well, few pics... can see where I mean with the neck sticking out and maybe see the odd finish issues.

Also, newly finished diagram for the plastic. USA pickguard swung down too low an almost overlaps the 3way switch. The tenon cover they wanted $25-30 for. The back plate I couldn't find unless a used original, around $35. Crazy for some plastic. Epiphone simply never responded when asked if they sold the parts. Ah well... I have 3 sheets of 3ply plastic. I think I have the CNC somewhat figured out but just never get the time to play with it.


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## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

There’s something to be said about a person who has grown to know their own limitations. That person has not. 
Good luck with the project, I’m rooting for you!


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

SWLABR said:


> There’s something to be said about a person who has grown to know their own limitations. That person has not.
> Good luck with the project, I’m rooting for you!


That's what cheap guitars are for. 

Lately I look for broken guitars trying to find stuff I've never fixed yet. 

Just wish lumber prices would drop so I can finish my workshop.


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## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

THRobinson said:


> That's what cheap guitars are for.
> 
> Lately I look for broken guitars trying to find stuff I've never fixed yet.
> 
> Just wish lumber prices would drop so I can finish my workshop.


I hear ya. On both accounts. I’ve learned a lot by messing around with lesser priced guitars. And, I would love to finalize my shop setup!


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

If I could I'd just hire someone to get my shop done... As I keep telling my buddy, I want a shop to work "in" not a shop to work "on".


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## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

I've used a steam iron and a couple of layers of wetted cotton ( actually a pajama ) between the iron and guitar for a neck reset. I'd say that for this tool, the minimum setting that produces steam, can still be too hot, takes a lot of patience for the wood temperature to rise. Just sharing what I'd tried, it was not a bound neck so carried much less risk of increased rework. But still risky to finish too. Anyway, abundance of wetting moderates and helps spread the heat if your tool temps are too high.


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