# bass guitar wiring help



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

I was given a bass guitar, but unfortunately it has a few problems. I want to try to fix the wiring myself, but I've never done something like this before so I'm not sure where to start. Does anyone have a good resource for this kind of thing? Details about the bass are below.

Yamaha bass
The sticker inside reads RBX-260F, YNS-0
There is also a code stamped on the headstock, PX12148


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I agree...remove the tape for starters.

What are the wiring related problems with the guitar?

Do you own any soldering equipment and do you know how to use it?

Do you know the actual model of Yamaha you have? 
Assuming that you don't, can you please post a pic of the front of the complete guitar so that someone can identify it.

Cheers

Dave


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

The model number is RBX260F.
The most prominent problem is a loose connection, I think. The bass works, but moving it around produces some horrible noise.

I have soldering equipment, and I'm not afraid to use it. I have next to no experience soldering, but I want to try.
Creating the connections with solder instead of tape may fix it. I was assuming that the wiring was changed though. I don't know why else the cover plate would be missing, and the insides would be covered in tape. How can I tell?


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Thanks for the model # ...as you can see I know very little about models/types of bass guitars. 
However, I would think this wiring diagram should work. You might want to look at the Yamaha site to see if they have a specific one for your bass guitar.

I would start by reading a couple of tutorials on soldering (there are hundreds of them online)...especially something related to guitar wiring.

I would then practice soldering some wires together and/or soldering to an old potentiometer (if you have one).

What is the power rating/wattage of your soldering equipment? 

Then you can resolder all the wires as per the diagram below (or a wiring diagram form Yamaha, if you can find one).

The capacitor in the digram is shown as being 0.05 mF. It could easily be 0.047 mF when you read the value on yours. No big deal. You should put a heat sink (an aligator clip will do) on the leg(s) of the capacitor when soldering them...they don't like to get too hot.

Also, soldering to the back of a pot can be frustrating. Use at least a 40 watt soldering iron, heat the back of the pot as quickly as possible, solder the wire onto the pot and remove the iron as quickly as possible. The pots act like heat sinks and keep absorbing heat....too much heat, and you can cook the pot. 

Also, do you have a multimeter? Do you know how to test for continuity?

Cheers

Dave


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

Looks like it's time to go shopping!
I can tell I have more issues that a loose connection already. I'll take a look for a yamaha specific diagram. I believe one leg of my capacitor is soldered to the volume, the other leg is shaking in the breeze, lol. I did see where it should have been connected though.

This will be a fun project. Thank you for the tips. I may not have found that info looking online. When I get the chance I'll remove all the tape, look for a diagram, and report back on what I've found.

Thanks again!


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Wiser said:


> Looks like it's time to go shopping!
> I can tell I have more issues that a loose connection already. I'll take a look for a yamaha specific diagram. I believe one leg of my capacitor is soldered to the volume, the other leg is shaking in the breeze, lol. I did see where it should have been connected though.
> 
> This will be a fun project. Thank you for the tips. I may not have found that info looking online. When I get the chance I'll remove all the tape, look for a diagram, and report back on what I've found.
> ...


Just to let you know, if the wiring diagrams are not totally the same, there are a few different ways that the capacitor can be wired into the circuit.

What is the power rating/wattage of your soldering equipment?....I would suggest that it should be at least 40 watts

Also, do you have a multimeter? Do you know how to test for continuity?....If you can test for continuity, it wil be easier to troubleshoot your soldering/connections.

Looking forward to hearing how things are progressing. Once you have done this type of wiring, the skills can be very useful in the future.

Cheers

Dave


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

My soldering iron is only 30W.
I don't have a multimeter. I looked them up, and there are helpful sites to test any connections.

I tried to find a schematic for the wiring, but had no luck. In my frustration I drew a few crude diagram in paint. 








To reconnect the capacitor, can I heat the existing solder and re-attach the dismembered leg?

P.s. I don't know how to create technical drawings, but I'm fairly sure that picture is accurate.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Hi wiser...me again...LOL

You might get away with using a 30 watt iron...the only way to know is to try it (obviously).
Soldering the grounds to the pot (pot = potentiometer) casings could be challenging.

I don't understand what you mean by _*"I looked them up, and there are helpful sites to test any connections". 
*_Testing continuity with a multimeter is a basic troubleshooting test. Do you mean that you will be getting a meter now that you have found the "helpful sites" ? BTW..you DO NOT need an expensive meter. Canadian Tire has a good selection at reasonable prices. I like the ones that have a continuity "buzzer"...saves you having to look up at the meter while testing...the buzzing sound means the connection is good.

Your paint diagram is well done but some things don't make sense to me.

Is the unconnected ground on the lower left the bridge ground ? (i.e., wire going to the bridge to ground it and, subsequently, the strings).

Your TONE pot (left) only shows a ground connection and nothing connected to any of the three lugs...this is not correct.

You could try and reattach the cap (cap = capacitor) by melting the existing solder but I wouldn't. 
I'd remove the old solder and start with fresh. To remove the old solder, you will have to "melt" it and use a solder wicking braid or a solder sucker. 

Does the output jack have* 5* terminals? If the 1/4 inch plug on your cable does not fut snugly into the existing jack, I would replace it with a Switchcraft brand jack with 2 terminals. They are not expensive and are very good quality. The output jack only needs to have a ground connection to the sleeve of the 1/4 inch plug and the other connection is for the "signal" ("hot") to the tip of the 1/4 inch plug.
Make sense ? Any chance that you could post a pic of the output jack? You will have to pull it out to work on it eventually.

Personally, I would start fresh and go with the Seymour Duncan wiring diagram.

Cheers

Dave


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

Sorry, I was being dismissive about the multimeter. I didn't know exactly what a multimeter was. I looked online and found resources describing how to use it. I didn't want to worry about that until I at least had a plan. 

I looked closer at the tone pot. The center lug is connected to the top, and the ground from the tone pot does go to the bridge. Sorry for the mistake.

The existing output jack does have five terminals. Only two are used. The wire running from the pickup to the tone pot was stripped in the middle, and a second wire was connected to it, and the center terminal of the output jack. This connection is where all the tape was. 
The input jack is a snug fit.

I'll try to take this apart, and post photos once I have.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Sorry about not being more clear re: the multimeter. 

The centre lug of the tone pot being connected means nothing...it is still not an active part of the circuit. Use the Seymour Duncan diagram as your reference for comparison. Maybe the person who owned the bass before you didn't want to be bothered with a tone knob (?)

If the jack-to-plug connection is snug, that is great. Often the jacks lose this snug fit.
No need to replace it or take pics of it. 

What is your next step?

If you want a good laugh, I repaired a bass guitar for friend because it was "cutting in and out" while he was playing. The ground wire to the jack was being held to the terminal with a little blob of *plasticine !!*...LOL

Cheers

Dave


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

You mean I can't use plasticine? 
Since you've told me my guitar is wired wrong, my next step is to look at the diagrams you mentioned to see how it's done right. Then I'll try to remove the existing connections, clean it up, get some wire and give it hell. Of course somewhere in the process I'll get a multimeter.

For today I quit. Thank you for all your help Dave.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Excellent plan...except for the plasticine...LOL

Let us know how everything progresses. 

If you need to make a joint to lengthen a wire, use some *shrink tube* to cover the exposed joints..it works great!

If you get VERY frustrated or run into problems, I'd be happy to help (no charge)...but you would have to get your guitar down to Kitchener.

Good Luck with the project.

My pleasure to try and be of some help to you.

Cheers

Dave


----------



## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

hey wiser-
you should be fine with a 30 watt iron.
if you need anything, or find your iron wont cut it, shoot me a pm.
ive got all the stuff, and i could walk you through this in person if youd like.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Thanks fraser !!

Cheers

Dave


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks Fraser. I think I'll be alright with a little forum help.
Before I do something stupid, is it possible to get replacement pots?

I took a look at L&M's website. I see there is a DiMarzio - 250k Pot. That's all it says though. I don't know if it's for volume or tone, or even if there is a difference. Would that be a suitable replacement for either of the pots I have? Mine were labeled 15A250k and 05A250K.

Here is a link if you're interested in what I was looking at.
Long & McQuade - DiMarzio 250k Pot


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

It is possible to get pots from several places. You want 250K Audio taper.

*You can buy them through Guitars Canada and there is a 15% discout if you give the code "GCJUL12"*
CTS® 250K AUDIO TAPER POT 10% TOLERANCE [CTS250] - $9.99 : GuitarsCanShop, The GC Gear Depot

I am not directly affiliated with the GC store, but I this forum has been good to me and I like to support the store.

BTW....These are excellent quality CTS pots.










You will need to know if you need the split shaft style (very likely) and if the threaded part is long enough to go through your guitar body.

Personally, I would take *fraser *up on his offer to help you. I had a "tutorial" from a local guitar tech when I started and it was extremely helpful. Otherwise, you will likely have a constant list of questions and you will be slowed down while searching (or waiting) for the answers. 

Cheers

Dave


----------



## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

nutech on parkdale often has the pots you need- but then they are often out of stock- you never know with them,
and they are electronic grade stuff, not as good as the cts ones greco points out.
however you can take your old pots with you and they will try to match them for you.
sometimes in a pinch ive had to use their long shaft pots, i cut the shafts down to fit.

if the knobs have a set screw holding them in place, you want solid shaft pots.
if they dont, and just press on like a strat, you want the split shaft type.


----------



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

fraser said:


> if the knobs have a set screw holding them in place, you want solid shaft pots.
> if they dont, and just press on like a strat, you want the split shaft type.


Thanks *fraser*...I didn't explain this. I was assuming that the split shaft pots would be the correct ones....but assuming is a dangerous approach.

Cheers

Dave


----------



## fraser (Feb 24, 2007)

greco said:


> Thanks *fraser*...I didn't explain this. I was assuming that the split shaft pots would be the correct ones....but assuming is a dangerous approach.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Dave


np dave-
the other thing is, if its a set screw type knob,
then a split shaft is ok too- you just position the knob how you want it, tighten your set screw, then back it off and remove the knob.
you will see the mark the set screw left on the shaft.
then you use a file to somewhat flatten the area where the mark was-
then the pot will work fine for both knob types.


----------



## Wiser (Jan 6, 2010)

I called Mountain Music in Hamilton asking where I could find pots. I found out they have a guitar tech in the building that will sell them. I spoke with her and found out it wouldn't be that expensive to get her to fix it, so I did. Part of me is glad I did, and another part is not. I don't have the space, or the time for another hobby. Before I took it in I did play with it a bit. I took the old connections apart and made some new ones. I bought new pots for the bass in case I damaged the existing ones while I was messing around. I kept them in case I ever want to practice. I was actually given a second bass, which I didn't realize was broken as well. The volume is very scratchy, and it has a dead zone. I may never fix it, but I have some knowledge now if I ever want to.

Speaking of which, there is a guy on youtube who explains how to do everything I needed. His channel name is johnplanetz.
[video=youtube;kTooyaxdDV0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTooyaxdDV0[/video]

So new gear day I suppose. I now have a working Yamaha RBX260F, and a Fender Rumble 75. I just need to learn how to play now, lol.

Thank you Greco, and Fraser for all your help.


----------

