# So the first re-wire was bittersweet (long-ish sorry)



## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

***break out the beer or whathaveyou and have a laugh or two on me  ***


Wow! Like holy ****-a-moly what a pita! And what a learning lesson, too! I made numerous discoveries tonight. 

From the top, shall we?

The Weller WLC100 showed up from Amazon with blistering speed. I was pretty happy about that. Since we were busy picking up new wheels for the missus I had to wait until tonight to get started. That was fine. I was kinda surprised at how patient I was able to remain. Perhaps that comes with age? Hopefully not. 

My first discovery was that while Strats look neat, what with their typical-but-not-always-white pickguard, it's a royal pita to do an otherwise basic re-wire. I "cut my teeth" on guitars that did not have a pickguard, so electronics were accessed from the rear (which never happened because I never had need before owing a strat - sorry! just pointing out MY case  ). Loosen the strings, pitch the trem, squeeze the guard assembly out and ... awww crap gotta get that ground off the trem spring claw ... ok, out you come! 

While I familiarized myself with what was going on with the electro-guts I fired up the Weller. I wanted to make dayum sure I knew what wire needed to go where before anything else. 

Enter discovery number two - inline 5-position switches aren't all the same and maybe make a diagram to better understand wtf is going on with the one you have before you. Maybe even break out a fine point marker and label the side of the switch. ***@&%&**(#%(&($&)^%*$! It will become evident as to why in a few paragraphs. :/ *cue audience laughter*

I had a clear plan in my head - drop the middle pickup completely so I would have bridge/bridge+neck/neck (basically looking for a tele-inspired set up ... because I love my tele and it loves me ... not like this strat! little bastard!  ) AND put the second tone pot on the bridge pickup. Easy, right? Right! 

So now I get to say THANK YOU for the umpteenth million time to greco for telling me to get a bigger iron. I cranked that puppy up to 4 (out of 5) to get it hot enough to remove the middle pup lead. I didn't want to clip the end of the lead, so I put a piece of heat-shrink tube on the end of it as a "just incase". 

Awesome! We're 1 for 2 now! Yeehaw! Just gotta relocate the tone pot lead and it's done. Easy, right? Right! *burn burn burn, zip zip zip* and she's done. Now I get to squeeze the assembly back under the strings, re-tune and check it out. No problem.

*eeeeerrrrrrrr* WRONG! Dropping the middle pup went fine, but the tone control ... something ain't right there. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAND ... now there's this weird sound/noise. Okay, nevermind the noise, let's get the tone worked out first. 

Undo, loosen, squeeze, curse/*****/moan/groan ... aaaahhhh, I needed to move the other tone lead, ok, no prob - the Weller is still hot. *pppsssshhhhhh* and done!

Re-do, tighten, squeeze, curse/*****/moan/groan ... AWESOME! Success! And more discoveries!

My guitar sounds like **** still with too many needless options AND it's still making this weird sound/noise AND now the trem arm is bent to ****! YAY! 


Okay, I don't care about the options with the guitar. I'm doing this to this strat because it was purchased with intent to learn about doing what i'm doing now - experimenting, trying this out, LEARNING. Complete success there, 10/10, love how it worked out completely. 

The weird sound ... obviously not too happy about that. The sound I hear only occurs when the guitar is producing sound. So if you don't play anything you don't know there is a problem. From the moment you play a single note, then as long as there is vibration from a sting being "picked up" there is a staticy kinda clicking sound that seems to follow a 1 second cycle interval. Thinking out loud, 1 second = 60 Hz = ground problem?????? 

I need to re-check the 4 places I touched and see what's going on. Stupid me I shoulda used flux anyway (someone told me it's not needed with rosin core - maybe I need to kick him in the balls). Hopefully it's that simple. Oh, and the blob of solder on the spring claw - untouchable! I had to clip the wire to remove it and put a new blob to get it on. 

Tomorrow night I will look into going back to 3 pups but with a single master tone instead of two. And figuring out that noise. 


Anyways, as far as i'm concerned tonight was a complete success. I had a plan, stuck to it and achieved my (wiring) goal. I made mistakes and learned from them. I experimented with the guitars sound/options and learned from that, too. Very, VERY happy. THANK YOU for the help and inspiration guys!


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## Guest (Sep 7, 2012)

Oh man. I'm so sorry but I started to laugh pretty hard when I got to the switch part of your adventure. Does it help to know we've probably all been there?

Out of habit now, I snap a few pictures with my phone once I've cracked it open so I have a point of reference should I need to undo my tinkering.

Also, I just take the strings all off now. Screw trying to save a set. It's not worth the effort, especially when I'm working on a guitar that's top loaded.

Just think of how much you're learning though. It'll be even easier tomorrow night!


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

Laughing and learning - that's what it's all about. Afterall, if you can't laugh at yourself then who can you laugh at?!?!?!  


Definitely took pics before!  

Strings was pure laziness on my part. They're old and need to be replaced, but I really just wanted to get an idea of sound options before replacing. Would be nice to just replace once. 

Funny how that laziness thing works out, eh? I'm finding as I get older that a lot of times some so-called short-cuts end up being more work with frustration than anything else. No thanks, i'll do it the "hard way"! hahahahahaaaa


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

PickALick...Congratulations on all your successes tonight !!

Thanks for the thanking me (again). You can stop now...I'm blushing and becoming embarrassed! 

Was the new Weller station enjoyable to use? Was it worth the investment? 

Having a flux pen can certainly be handy, even if the solder you are using is resin core.
I wonder if the original blob of solder on the spring claw is lead free solder?

I don't think you have a ground problem...but I'm not sure as to what problem you might have.

The next thing I would suggest getting is a digital multimeter. This would help you with checking continuity of your wiring. You don't need an expensive meter, unless you want to do more "fancy" electronics projects in the future. I prefer the meters that have buzzer for continuity, personally. You can also build a simple continuity buzzer (look it up on the internet).

I will be in Calgary for a week (starting tomorrow) so I won't be able to follow this thread. Damn.

You might want to post a link to the wiring diagram you are using for this project. It will help as a reference for discussing what you want to do and possible sources of the noise problem you are encountering. 

Cheers

Dave


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

iaresee said:


> Does it help to know we've probably all been there?


Only after you are finished and everything is working OK...LOL 



iaresee said:


> I just take the strings all off now.


Ian...What about leaving one sting on for testing volume, tone and the switch? (and then ditch it when you know all is OK?) Your thoughts or other solutions/suggestions? 



iaresee said:


> think of how much you're learning though. It'll be even easier tomorrow night!


Very, very true...taking a break and just thinking about the problem(s) and possible solutions often helps. Plus you have all that practice (soldering, disassembly/assembly) to "support" you.

Cheers

Dave


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

The Weller station was great! I can't imagine using a gun for work like this now, really. I like how the temp is handled with a "set it and forget it" technique. VERY handy. Errr, pardon the pun. Well worth the $50 plus tax, for sure.

I have a multimeter already. I'd tackle it now, but the bed is calling so i'll save it for tomorrow night when i'm "fresh". 

I don't think you'll miss much in the next week.

Well, then again, this is ME we're talking about. Haha, i'm new here so y'all don't know what that means ... yet. 

Have fun in Calgary. Safe trip!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

PickALick said:


> Well, then again, this is ME we're talking about. Haha, i'm new here so y'all don't know what that means ... yet.


The main thing is that you are enjoying the forum and contributing. Your writing style and humour are certainly fun to read. 

In addition, like you say, we all need a reminder to learn to be able to laugh at ourselves.

Wondering about your "staticy clicking sound" problem is going to bug me for a week now...LOL. 
I might have to go back onto my meds. (j/k).

Cheers

Dave


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## Guest (Sep 7, 2012)

greco said:


> Ian...What about leaving one sting on for testing volume, tone and the switch? (and then ditch it when you know all is OK?) Your thoughts or other solutions/suggestions?


I...I...I never considered that! Good idea! I'm a little too black-and-white some times: all strings on, all strings off; there is no in between.


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

iaresee said:


> I...I...I never considered that! Good idea! I'm a little too black-and-white some times: all strings on, all strings off; there is no in between.


*raises hand* Guilty.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

Agreed.
Leave the low E on for testing the refit pickups and connections. As well, if you are replacing pickups of different types, the low E string will tell you if your pups are in phase (in the 2 and 4 positions) on a 5 way selector for example. If they polarity is wrong your low end will vanish in those positions.
Nice one on your wiring and "Let the soldering begin!" on future projects.

Cheers, d.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

GONE


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## Guest (Sep 7, 2012)

gtrguy said:


> and check phase using a multimeter before restringing.


How do you do that?


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

AFAIC, one of the dumbest things Fender ever did was to NOT split the Stratocaster pickguard up like they did with the Jazz Bass and Jaguar. It is hard to imagine a guitar form-factor with so many people, world-wide, itching to monkey around with the wiring or change pickups, and equally hard to imagine an instrument that is so _inhospitable_ to doing so.

One of the other dumbest things that both Fender and Gibson, and so many others, have done is to use the same value tone cap for_ all _pickups. Do you know anyone anywhere who wants a muted tone from their bridge pickup? So why does the tone control work the same way for the bridge as it does for the neck and middle?

Given how bloody awkward it is, and what you've gone through already, I don't know how up for this you might be, but there is a simple way to get the neck+bridge Telecaster tone that Strats lack.

If one simply flips the pickup leads for the bridge and middle pickups at the selector switch, you get:
neck, 
neck+bridge,
bridge,
bridge+middle,
middle

Alternatively, if one flips the pickup leads for the neck and middle, you get:
middle,
middle+neck,
neck,
neck+bridge,
bridge

Either way, you have to forfeit one of the "cluck" positions to gain the N+B option. Which one you can live without more is your choice. The caveat is that the majority of pickup sets these days have the middle pickup RWRP, relative to the other two. Since the neck and bridge are not RWRP, in relation to each other, using either of the alternate wiring schemes I note above would result in only _one_ out of the 5 positions being hum-rejecting. That can be fixed by swapping out the pickups themselves, in addition to the wiring. Or, f you like to live experimentally, and your pickups have actual Alnico polepieces (instead of ceramic magnets and slugs), you can score yourself some loonie-sized neodymium magnet and remagnetize the pickups to reverse their north/south orientation. I've done it and it works fine.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

iaresee said:


> How do you do that?


 There is a way do check pup polarity by metering.
There may be more than one, but the only way I am aware of is to use an _Analog_ meter set on a low A.C. scale.
When you connect the pickup to the meter and excite it with a metal object (I use a pearing knife blade) ,you will see a voltage swing with the analog meter.
The swing will either be forward or reversed.
This will allow you to identify the polarity of each pup before installation.
The_ easiest way_ (to the best of my knowledge) is the way that I mentioned above and is foolproof,
♬right or wrong, you can hear what's goin' on.♫
Sounds like the making of a song here?♩
Cheers, d


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## Guest (Sep 7, 2012)

loudtubeamps said:


> use an _Analog_ meter


Ah! Yea, I was trying to work out how I'd do it but hadn't considered an analog meter (I have only a digital meter). Cool.

Learned two things from this thread now.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

greco said:


> Wondering about your "staticy clicking sound" problem is going to bug me for a week now...LOL.
> I might have to go back onto my meds. (j/k).
> 
> Cheers
> ...


Ian, Mark, Doug and others....any thoughts/suggestions regarding PickALick's "staticy clicking sound" ?

Cheers

Dave


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## hollowbody (Jan 15, 2008)

hahaha, I'm so sorry you're having trouble, but we all have it happen to us. My partner and I have a running joke: I tell her I'm going to install new pickups, or rewire my Strat's switch, etc and that it will only take about 30mins or so. She always laughs and says, "yeah whatever. It'll take an hour, then it won't work, and then it will take another 3 hours for you to fix it. See you tomorrow!"


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

WOW! You guys totally ****in' rock! *hi-5s*

Not gonna get into a heavy reply now. Just wanna say that i'm going to break out the digital camera, put it on movie mode, make a short film showing the "business side" of the pickguard and then install it and play something so y'all can eaer what i'm trying to describe. It resembles a delay effect, too.

Provided it all goes smooth I will post up a link to a new YouTube account *sometime tonight*. I will also post up a Paint-ed pic of what I started with and what I changed. Maybe I just have a wire(s) crossed or something.

Wow, holy THANKS everyone! 

*goes to remove all but one string*


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

PickALick said:


> *goes to remove all but one string*


Atta boy !!....LOL

Dave


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

greco said:


> Ian, Mark, Doug and others....any thoughts/suggestions regarding PickALick's "staticy clicking sound" ?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Dave


 Hey Dave. My first thought would be a ground wire rubbing on the bottom side of an exposed pickup pole piece.


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## loudtubeamps (Feb 2, 2012)

"mhammer
AFAIC, one of the dumbest things Fender ever did was to NOT split the Stratocaster pickguard up like they did with the Jazz Bass and Jaguar. It is hard to imagine a guitar form-factor with so many people, world-wide, itching to monkey around with the wiring or change pickups, and equally hard to imagine an instrument that is so _inhospitable to doing so."


Soooooooooo true! d._​


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

loudtubeamps said:


> Hey Dave. My first thought would be a ground wire rubbing on the bottom side of an exposed pickup pole piece.


Thanks....Now PickALick has at least something to start with when troubleshooting. 

Cheers

Dave


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

*OKAY SO NOW THERE'S ...*

Oh, sorry, ears are ringing still. 

Okay, so I figured i'll take the strings off like Dave said (smart bugger you!) and was about to grab the snips and then I thought "let me hear this noise once more right now and _then_ i'll tear into it". Right? Yeah, because i'm anal like that. 

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand ... it's fine now.  :/ 

I'm still trying to figure out if i'm more confused, confused+relieved, relieved, relieved+happy, happy. (<- come on, that was good! HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!) 

I decided to try the Tele to see if there was any comparison note to be made. Only note was that I love the **** out of that tele. Oh, and that tinnitus is a biatch (but I knew that 20 years ago when it started). 

So now i'm convinced that somehow, magically, even mystically, something somewhere was somehow causing interference. No clue who/what/why/where/when and/or how (say that 10 times fast! lol) but i'm gonna try to re-create it. I only moved 2 guitars away from the amp tonight, but they're usually there and have never been a problem before so ... :/ (insert Twilight Zone music here).

I'm wondering if it might have been a simple case that, along with loudtubeamps thinking, perhaps there was a wire within the assembly that was sitting "just so" and causing a problem, but is now not "just so". I also remember that I did not put the twist ties back on when I put it together, so it kinda stands to reason. 

More to come ... after I make my ears bleed.


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

Okay, so here's where i'm at now. I can not, for the life of me, re-create that interference. *shrug* Short of removing the pickguard and moving the wires around, I can't do it. So, as far as i'm concerned, the problem is ... whatever. Sorry, I can't say solved! You can't make me!  

Anyways, the COB Bullet is buttoned back up. Bridge is fixed/blocked, new strings and nut (new nut thread comin' up! :/ ) and she's playin' fine. 

The current set up is;

1) bridge and neck pups only. Middle pup is in place, but just a decoration. Available is a basic bridge/bridge+neck/neck configuration. I like it.

2) "second" tone control is for the neck pup, so obviously each pup has it's own tone control. This alone I find very useful, but it also proves, imho, a very important compliment to the above configuration. I'd say these two should/could/would go hand-in-hand. As much as I can understand some wanting a single master tone control I think this might be more convenient. 

This is just a test! No Emergency Broadcast System is involved!  

I also wanna try a single master tone control. lol 

Ideally i'm just playing around with this single strat for now, getting a feel for it as a guitar and looking at the possibilities. While there certainly are things I don't like about it, I do feel it's a great platform to learn on (and the cost of only $100 didn't hurt). Mhammer makes an excellent point about the split pickguard, and I agree, and my solution to this, albeit probably drastic to some, will be to route that pocket completely through the body and put a more conventional access pocket in the back. 

I'll quote mhammer in the next post and go from there ... in the meantime;

THANK YOU to all you guys here for the help and laughs.  It's nice to find a community that isn't so horribly overrun by the "I don't cares" and "who gives a flying ****s".


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## bagpipe (Sep 19, 2006)

+1. This is what I do (I use a screwdriver, but anything metallic will do). You can verify the switch and all tone and volume pots using this method. 



gtrguy said:


> I take all the strings off and just tap the polepieces gently with an allen wrench to check that everything is wired correctly and check phase using a multimeter before restringing.


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

mhammer said:


> AFAIC, one of the dumbest things Fender ever did was to NOT split the Stratocaster pickguard up like they did with the Jazz Bass and Jaguar. It is hard to imagine a guitar form-factor with so many people, world-wide, itching to monkey around with the wiring or change pickups, and equally hard to imagine an instrument that is so _inhospitable_ to doing so.
> 
> One of the other dumbest things that both Fender and Gibson, and so many others, have done is to use the same value tone cap for_ all _pickups. Do you know anyone anywhere who wants a muted tone from their bridge pickup? So why does the tone control work the same way for the bridge as it does for the neck and middle?
> 
> ...


Okay, so as mentioned in the previous posts - I don't care about work and downtime on "The COB". I have the bullet-proof reliability of my tele to enjoy the 6-string stuff. I do need to get my other bullet back together though, especially now that I know that swapping the bullet necks won't work without considerable modifications (imagine that - they're not the same lol). Not worth going there.

I mentioned earlier that i'm interested in playing about and your post has fortified an idea I had. I planned ahead with my StewMac order and I now have 3 little black toggle switches.  I'm really interested in ditching the limitations of the 5-way switch completely. Not that it's a huge limitation, but for the few dollars and education I gain - why not? I don't give a flying crap about looks so much, but, in my perfect little world, if I have 3 pups I should be able to do what *I* want with them. I also find flicking the switches easier to do and easier to "read".

That being said i'd like your input, and anyone else's for that matter, on a proposed "complimentary" mod - 3 tone knobs. My volume useage consists of the following; on, off.  Since i'd have 3 on/off switches that is easily dealt with. I think between these two mods all of my "angles" are covered, quite favorably. 

Input? Perhaps you have recommendations on cap values? I also grabbed a pack of 22 and 47 uF caps from StewMac.  Honestly, i'm used to playing guitars with a single master tone control and there were times i'd have the bridge pup "muted". (sorry lol) That being said, I also had the gain on the Boss Metal Zone cranked, so ... tone? Wuzzat?!?!?!?!? lol 

If you have recommendations on what caps to run where i'd love to hear it. When it comes to volume and tone controls and wiring I have no clue. I mean - i'm still learning.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

GONE


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I have tried to respond to this thread several times, but the stupid small touchscreen on my tablet had me inadvertently cancelling things. I hope my work computer will lead to greater success.

The rule of thumb, re: tone caps, would be that the cap selected for the bridge tone control should be about 40-50% the value of the neck tone control. So, if you have .022uf for the neck, then the bridge should be .01uf (nearest common value at the lower limit of the 40-50% range). You can get even lower/smaller than that, but may find it requiring more twiddling to get a discernible tone change.

One trick I have taken to using on several of my guitars with one tone pot is to use what I call bi-directional tone control. In this format, the wiper of the tone pot goes to the input of the volume pot, and each outside lug of the tone pot goes to ground via a different value tone cap. The tone pot value would be at least double the stock value, and the mid-point of the pot would be the new "no-cut" position.

So, imagine we have a 250k Strat volume pot. The input lug of that pot now goes to the wiper of a 500k-1M linear pot (if you want to be able to find the mid-point easily), and the two outpside lugs of that pot are connected to grund via a .022uf cap on one side, and a .0068uf-.0082uf cap on the other.  Rotate one direction from midpoint and you get the traditional muting. Rotate the other way, and the top gets rounded off to make the guitar sound a little more like P-90s. Set to the middle, you essentially have two tone pots (either [email protected] or [email protected], depending on your choice of pot value) with minimum cut.

Normally, a 250k tone pot would provide some treble bleed, even set to full treble. A higher-value pot would provide less bleed, but then you'd have to rotate it a lot to hear any change. In this instance since each of our "two tone controls" only occupies half the overall rotation, it is a very short distance to max cut, and you can afford to start out with a higher pot value. One of the neat perks of this arrangement is that it lets you do "pinky wah" with the tone control. the downside is that pots with a centre detente, that let you nail the mid-point each and every time, are hard to find. Still, two different tone controls without needing a push-pull pot, or requiring any cutting or routing, is a nice feature. Some folks may prefer to use the 2nd direction for a mid-cut, rather than an alternate kind of treble cut.

With respect to toggle-mania, I am of two minds. I'm a big fan of experimentation and "other sounds". At the same time, if an instrument is intended for use in any sort of live-music context, I'm an equally big fan of making the sorts of compromises that lead to _seamless meaningful tonal changes_. I wrote the article found on page 5 here - http://hammer.ampage.org/files/Device1-12.PDF - in 1979, and my attitude has not really changed much in the interim. Ideally, I'd like a 6-position knife switch, to provide enough tonal variation with minimal hassle. The Fender Bullet guitars came sort of close by having 3 pushbuttons, that would permit selection of any pickup combination with one movement. On the other hand, going from bridge to neck+middle would require defeating the bridge pickup (one motion), and engaging the neck and middle (a second motion). A 6-pos knife switch works better IMO. The old Gibson L-6S and S-1 used a 6-position rotary switch, which is a little less seamless of a mid-riff move than a knife-switch.

That aside, I will still maintain that there are a lot of the assorted possibilities afforded by complex switching arrangements that are audibly different if you are playing spotlessly clean at modest volumes, but which completely disappear once the volume goes up or the distortion/overdrive comes on. If an instrument is destined for studio-only use, then the more options the merrier. But if an instrument is destined for live usic contexts, where smooth switchover is paramount, then why burden oneself with things that may not matter very much once the volume knob goes above 2.


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

mhammer said:


> I have tried to respond to this thread several times, but the stupid small touchscreen on my tablet had me inadvertently cancelling things. I hope my work computer will lead to greater success.
> .....


WOW! THANKS! 

Absorbing, reading (and fixing my car and blahblahblah), but quickly in the meantime - would these not be the "hard to find" blend pots you're describing? Linear taper, center detent, 250 and 500 flavours ... 

STEWMAC.COM : Blend Pots

I think I understand what you're describing. Actually, I think you've done such a good job at it I may have a better understand of how wiring pots in different configurations has a different effect on the output. 

Still chewin' though lol .....


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## davetcan (Feb 27, 2006)

Huge DUH !! and eureka moment happening here. LOL.




greco said:


> Ian...What about leaving one sting on for testing volume, tone and the switch? (and then ditch it when you know all is OK?) Your thoughts or other solutions/suggestions?
> 
> 
> Dave


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

PickALick said:


> WOW! THANKS!
> 
> Absorbing, reading (and fixing my car and blahblahblah), but quickly in the meantime - would these not be the "hard to find" blend pots you're describing? Linear taper, center detent, 250 and 500 flavours ...
> 
> ...


Linear taper is the plain vanilla of the pot universe, so no great search required there. Pretty much any electronics outlet would have a 500k or 1M linear pot. The more critical aspect is whether it will fit in the available space (and, for example, in the case of some guitars that would mean that the threaded part is long enough to leave something to screw the nut onto on the top of the guitar), and whether the shaft style suits the knob that is supposed to go on it. You don't want to buy a solid shaft type for a Strat, since the standard tone knob won't fit over it. You will want the split-shaft type.

Centre detente is usually a feature that comes with higher-end pots intended for use on audio equipment. It might be used for the balance or tone controls, such that the click in the middle indicates left/right balance, or no-boost/no-cut. These are usually special-order items, so I wouldn't expect to run into them in the usual places.

If you're in Brampton, it's just a short scoot over to the little strip mall at Dixie & Matheson in Mississauga that has several major electronics places in the one location. You should be able to get what you need there.

Pot shafts are generally longer than you need, so you will need to cut this to length, unless you get real lucky with the shaft length. If you do have to cut it, just be careful to keep the metal dust out of the pot. Nobody needs scratchy controls.


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## PickALick (Aug 4, 2012)

BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1!!111!!! 

So that clicky delay-kinda sound - SOLVED! It's the amp. It happened again last night. I plugged in the same COB bullet that started this re-wire thread and there was that sound. I was right by the amp, so I played around for a minute and it wasn't going away no matter where I moved, or what I did with the cable or neighbouring guitars. So I grabbed my tele and plugged it in. Same thing happening! Okay, back to the COB - still crappy. So I shut off the amp, turned it right back on and ... noise gone. 

Interesting!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Hi PickALick...I'm just back from Calgary and am reading through this thread from post #23.

I'm much too tired at the moment to absorb all of it...but I will catch up.

Cheers

Dave


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