# My Les Paul style build.



## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I'll quit posting in "What's on your workbench", so here is posts from mylespaul forum, up to date.

I know many of you follow the TDPRI & mylespaul forums.

Not planning to do an exact replica. Just an LP Style guitar, with my own take on some things.

I do plan on doing some chambering. 2-humbucker pickups. 2-way truss rod. Maybe also changing the headstock geometry. Less tilt back, try and get the D&G strings closer into the centre, so they don’t nearly touch the A&B strings.
But still trying to resemble the “moustache” look on to top profile of the headstock.

I’m open to ideas.

This should start some good discussions.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Glued up a laminate neck blank.
Mahagony/walnut/birdseye maple/walnut/mahagony.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Decided on a 10deg angle

Headstock angle rough cut on chop saw, then jack planed.
























Routed in the 2-way truss rod on the CNC.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Bought a CNC file for 59 Les Paul. Trying out fingerboard inlays compared to what I have.

First go was too big.






















Second try no quite there either.






















Back to the computer.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Just going through the files & making any adjustments.
Had to rotate them all 90deg to work properly in my CNC.

Arch top.











Body












Fretboard











Neck











Probably going to do some weight relief.

I’ll be doing the neck by hand, since It is a modified version.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Checking out the top carve in Aspire

I purchased the files about a year ago from Alex at 3D CNC Guitars.

Uses a 1/4” bullnose.


This is what it looks like.

Roughing























Finishing


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

View attachment 411688


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Moodivarius said:


> Bought a CNC file for 59 Les Paul. Trying out fingerboard inlays compared to what I have.
> 
> First go was too big.
> 
> ...


Don't you love that. You are so sure you got it.... then, well.... you got nothing. I have played this game many times myself.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I decided to put together the birdseye maple blank for the top cap.
The board I had, was split & warped. Tried to get enough width out of it.












Had to use a flat piece of 3/4” plywood, & use a small shim under one corner of the warped birdseye to flatten it out the top side on the thickness planer.
























Ran it through a few times until the complete surface was flat.











Then flipped over & planed the other side flat.











I printed out a Les Paul to actual size, on multiple pieces of paper to get the actual size.











Just slightly under width, so I might match up a small piece on the control side & glue it on, to make the correct width.
Not much to match the grain, since it’s a bunch of little birds eyes, not flames.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Decisions?

Whether to go with a 2 1/2” piece down the middle, or try & add a small piece down the control side?

























The right piece is the same as the 3-piece

Or











Would have to add small piece on the bottom right.











The off colour on the left piece might show through the finish. Not sure.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Well,

I do have this 8’ board I could use. Not as much birdseye, but more figuring.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Better?
























Not as much birdseye, but some nice figuring.
Twisted again, but they are 4/4, so lots to work with.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Spent a couple hours trueing up the maple cap, & planing to slightly over thickness.

Watched a video on YouTube to see how the best way to go about it.

I started with a piece of 3/4” plywood shelf, with arborite on each side, that was nice & true. I had used it for a previous project, & cut it down in width to be slightly wider than my boards.












The maple boards, had a 1/2” twist in them from corner to corner. But they where about 5/4 thick, so lots to work with.












I put a 1/4” shim under each opposite corner high side to take up the wobble.













Then hot glued the wedges & board to the plywood shelf to hold in place while running through the thickness planer.










I placed a couple about half way down to take up the gap incase the board flexed in the planer.











I drew some pencil lines on the top of the board to see how it was planing the surface as I ran it through.











After a couple passes.











After 10, or so passes, until all pencil lines where gone. Then I knew it was true.











Pried them off of the shelf board, flipped over, and ran them through the planer, until the other side was totally true.
Repeated process on the other board as well.

A bit of birdseye & figuring in this wood.























Now I can glue together, cut to width, & run through my buddy’s 15” wide planer to have a perfectly try top to work with.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Cut down the width a bit on the inside of each board to get the best figuring moved in towards the middle, to show on the body better.
























Laid some hardware out to see how the final product might look.























Should end up an interesting looking thing.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Went down to my buddy’s to plane the body blanks, & maple cap for the LP.
























Body blanks.











Wiped some isopropyl alcohol on to show the grain.

White ash. 1.75”











Cherry for a Thin-line, 1.5”











Birdseye maple cap for LP. Slightly over 5/8” thick.















































There is some nice figuring in the grain, along with the birds-eyes.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Moodivarius said:


> Better?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is super sexy!! And the right size, I think winner.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Preliminary trial of rough-carve contour of LP cap.




































Took 2.5 hours. Route tool-paths seemed to be set at a slow feed rate to reduce chipping of the maple cap.

I’ll run the finish-carve tomorrow evening.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Ran the finish-carve tonight.

3 1/2 hours with 1/4” ball nose.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Played on the Aspire software this aft.

Imported a 100% scale from Electric Herald LP PDF.

Then made a profile of the neck, and a modified version for my own LP build.

Mine has 10deg headstock angle. Also a volute, suggested by a member.























I like the subtle volute on my Ibanez AGS75, so I kinda followed that.












Here it is lying on my neck blank.












Comparison of the two different headstock angles.













A better pic of the volute profile.












Now a face-on template of headstock, fingerboard, & mortise.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Today I routed out a face-on router template on the CNC.













Laid it on the neck blank and traced it out.












Now I’ll cut it slightly larger on the bandsaw.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Worked on cutting out the neck & gluing on the headstock wings.

Used some tools I was comfortable with.











Set the angle to 4deg.











Setup the mitre saw cut-depth stop so it was where I drew the line for the tenon.










Proceeded to cut material away to leave the 1 1/2” tenon. I went just a touch large to be able to chisel or sand it exact later.











Then I went to the bandsaw & cut out the side profile. Again, slightly larger than the pencil line.

































Then I took leftover mahogany, I had cut off from the heel end, moved it up to the headstock to match the grain. Glued those pieces on to create headstock wings.










As you can see, I glued the wings on, full size of blank, so when I saw & plane them down to size, they will have the grain matching at the 10deg angle. Just incase I leave the back of the headstock plain wood. The front will get birdseye maple veneer to match body.










Trim the wings, draw the headstock & cut the face profile on the bandsaw next.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Headstock planed down to thickness.
Design work done in Aspire.

Back side. Volute will get refining when carving neck.











Tried to design a bit of PRS, & Gibson. It’s like if they had offspring together.
Wanted to bring the holes inward to line up better with the strings coming through the nut.












Used my Tremonti SE for comparison.












Laid the tuners on to get a better idea. Makes it look better.












Coming along. I’m happy with the look.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Drilled holes in template.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Cut out the face profile on the bandsaw & refined shape on the oscillating sander.












Back











Back of headstock.























The volute.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Didn’t have a full day of work today, so decided to try the tool-paths on the CNC with 2” styro.















































Decided to throw in a belly cut

Everything seemed to go as planned.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

After supper, I decided to bite the bullet & route the mahogany.

I started on the back, doing the belly cut, & the control cavity cover routes.












Belly cut.













Processed to flip over and rout the pickups first.











Then the control cavity, switch cavity & wire channel.










As you may notice around the control cavity, the colette of the router dug in slightly.
My 1/4” end mill was only chucked in the router by 3/8”, and thought it would be enough sticking out to cut through. Once I noticed it touching, I stoped the CNC, adjusted the bit out a wee bit more & continued on.
It’s under the maple cap, so it doesn’t really matter.


I was going to route the outer profile & be finished, but thought, why not do some weight relief! 

Aspire design











The large relief holes are 1.5” dia, & 1.25” deep. I kept them from the left side, so I didn’t go through into the belly cut on the back. Smaller holes are just over 0.75”.

















Trimmed off the leftover blank, & sanded the edges on body & other routes to get rid of the fuzzies.























Turned out pretty good.












Now onto the maple cap.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Tonight routed the maple cap carve.

The blank












Rough contours.
























The finish route.
















































Just over 3 1/2 hours to route.












Tomorrow will be the profile route, pickups, pot holes, & switch hole.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

After getting advice on the binding route, I decided to go with Freeman’s second Lester idea. Make things simple.

Just route the binding path, set-in all the way around, to the bottom of the maple cap. My binding was about 1/16” shy on height, so I figured I will blend the maple cap down to the height of the binding where it will meet flush.

Here we are.












I removed the leftovers, & sanded the ball-nose routing smooth by hand, with 80gt, then 100gt.











Some pretty neat looking grain.














































I wiped some isopropyl alcohal to enhance the grain.












The pickup routes lined up perfect. Cap thickness, ended up at 0.6275”, at rear of bridge pickup route.











Binding channel.
























My cap, with binding is just slightly smaller than the mahagony body, so I’ll use the oscillating sander and flush perfect, once cap, binding & body get glued together.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

A couple more pics of the grain with alcohol.











Top bout, by the switch.












I zeroed the scale on the top of the mahogany body, then held the cap down & put the scale back on. Ended up wit this.












Looks correct.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Top glued on.

First installed some toothpick alignment pins.
























Glued up. Used what equipment I had.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Progress this evening.

Cut a neck pocket template on the CNC to accept the tenon of the neck template.












Used 2-way tape, wedges & hot glue gun to hold perfectly in position on the body for routing.












Got my 4deg neck angle. Zeroed at 90deg face of front. 90-86=4deg.











Ready for routing.












I used 2 different lengths of 1/2” top bearing flush cut router bits. 5 passes later, taking it very easy, bat pushing the router.
Pass 1











Pass 3












After 5 passes.




































Snug, but not tight. Might have to sand the tenon a bit to allow for glue joint.












Fit perfect and lined up centre from headstock to centre line at bottom bout.

Went easier than I expected. Just did a lot of planning & measuring first.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Worked on fingerboard today.

Cut a couple out of some Santos Rosewood I had.























Cut the excess off of the tenon on the neck pickup cavity. Will trim with router later.











Design work to modify trapezoid routes.










I was considering cutting the 12th trapezoid in 2, to get a bit different look. 
Undecided yet.











Routed trapezoid inlays & fret slots.

































The smaller trapezoid routes where just slightly small for the insert to go in.










Back to Aspire, to tweak.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Inlay route 3.0.

I’ll have o cut the 4 corners sharp, with an Xacto knife.













Maybe a paper width in middle of radius. I think CA glue will fill the void.

















































Will I be ok? Thoughts?


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Over last weekend.

Santos Rosewood Fretboard 1.0.

Routed the 12” radius profile first. Not sure why it routed a deep trough on the left side. Thought that might have been the way the tool-paths where done by 3Dcncguitars, where I bought the files from. I had modified the original files, since they where laid out 90deg from how my CNC runs. Narrowed slightly, since the originals where a bit wider than a normal LP nut width.












Then the inlay route











Fret slots























Outside profile & binding route.












Something didn’t work out, & ended up 1/8” narrower than planned. 











Once I sharpen the corners with a small chisel or knife, the inlays will be almost perfect.
























I could double bind on each side, B/W, or B/C, but I have another rosewood fingerboard blank. I might use it an a future build & double bind.

Back to the software to figure out what is the issue.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Played on the software a couple nights ago, for quite a while to figure what is my issue. Compared with the original, and did some tweaking.

The first try, on the left, it was cutting “on the vectors” instead of “outside the vectors”, even though I had it se to “outside”. Googled, and came up with the fix. As you can tell on the second, right side routes.























I’ll do a bunch of measuring after that’s done.
If all is good, route out the other fingerboard blank this evening.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I was feeling crappy since Saturday, lungs, rash on forearms, neck & chest. I did 2 COVID rapid tests, and both negative.

Was feeling much better Sunday evening, so decided to cut another fingerboard. I always wear an N95 mask, but just a T-shirt in the shop.

Searched on google this morning, about wood allergies, and found Pau Ferro is one that is up at the top of the list, for allergies, as is western cedar, which was my last build.

Wood Allergies and Toxicity | The Wood Database

Before, when using Pau Ferro & wedge for fingerboard, my radius was sanded by hand, vacuuming the coarse sandpaper grit out after 10 or so strokes, so the dust never floated around, like the CNC throws it.

Took some allergenic medication, and will have to try long sleeves & respirator, that I use when spraying nitro.

The allergy medicine pretty much got rid of the problems, so I’m thinking that’s what it was.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

The joys of working with Cream/Ivory.

3 different suppliers.












My order from Sologuitars showed up yesterday. 10mm, 7mm, 6mm binding, pickup rings, etc. I’ll be using their pickup rings, since it is the closest match to the 10mm binding they also had, I need for the cutaway.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Fretboard 2.0.


1.0 on left, 2.0 on right.














I now have the dimensions correct.

Broke my last 0.6mm bit that I was using for fret slots. Not really made for it, too long of cutting shank. I think it was designed for PCB. Then I just switched to a pointed engraving bit and made one pass at 0.01” deep just to mark the fret positions, & I’ll cut by hand on the mitre, with my fret saw. I ordered 2 of the real 0.023 fret slot bits & on the way.

The only problem is, it routed the radius a bit too deep, my bad on setting Z-axis incorrect. But also, when I unscrewed the board off the CNC, & cut off the tabs, the fingerboard has a pretty good twist. :hyper::hyper:
The grain was very nice looking, maybe the reason for the twist, when it was released out of the larger blank.
















































I have a couple more straight blanks cut out, so I’ll machine a new one over the weekend.

Looks good on the guitar though.












As the saying goes, “3rd times a charm!” :laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Built a binding jig out of MDF, on the CNC today.

Saw this idea online from BigD Guitars. He said it makes things a lot easier.

Used a 1/16” bit, 1/4” deep trough.



































Then warmed the binding up wit the heat gun to make it soft, but not too hot to make it bubble.











Made sure it was all the way to the bottom of the channel, then added a couple of body blanks to weigh it down to keep everything true to the bottom channel.











As you can see, I cut a trough to extend the excess binding to go out of the jig. I’ll cut to length on the guitar, after it’s glued.












Earlier, I fit the binding around the body by hand to mark it for rough height. Since I’m using 10mm binding, it’s quite tall in most places. I’ll trim it down to the bottom of the marker line with a small thumb plane, while still in the jig. This will leave me about 1/16” or less around the body edge, so when I pull the tape that holds the binding tight, it shouldn’t tip the binding and pull it out of square at the bottom of the binding channel.












Well, that is the idea anyway. Hope my planning ahead helps make things easier.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Read up on Freeman’s binding procedure, and decided to bind this afternoon.

First I used my large thumb plane & brought the binding height close the the marks I made earlier.











Then I went to town, and bought some superglue with accelerator and a small can of acetone. I wish it was thin CA, but get what you can get here.












Proceeded to glue it up.
The accelerator helped a a lot. Glued a little spot, hold the binding in tight & spray a bit of accelerator.











Pulling, and holding it in tight, glueing, & taping as I go.











I ran a bead of CA glue all the way around the outside edge, then with a syringe and acetone, I thinned the CA glue around the edge, hoping it would seep down between the edge of the maple cap & binding.
























Let things dry, & proceeded with my thumb plane, then large curved scraper, to bring the binding flush with the top of the maple cap.


























Came out perfect, other than around the cutaway. It filled with CA, but just slightly away from maple cap.












I ran another bead of CA around the edge, where the binding meets mahogany body.
I’ll go out to the shop & sand the edge of the mahogany body flush with the binding, since it is just slightly larger for allowing sanding.












Now back to the shop for Fretboard 3.0.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

All flush sanded & scraped on the edges.

You can see I started with the sides slightly proud.



































A couple spots where the end-grain of the mahogany didn’t route quite perfect, where the binding meets.
























I’m pretty happy, being my first try binding a body.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Also sanded the neck joint, pulling some through, quite a few times.




































Coming along.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Installed the tailpiece studs, while the CNC was routing out fingerboard 3.0.











Notice the ground wire I drilled in from the control cavity to the stud hole.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Got fingerboard 3.0 cut out & inlays installed.












Used a chisel & Xacto knife to sharpen the routed inlay points.

From this,












To this. They fit pretty nice.












Tinted some epoxy to glue in the inlays.












All done.











Just scored the fret slots with 1 pass, I’ll cut them full by hand on the mitre.

Then radius sand inlays flush to fingerboard, then final sand board & inlays.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Up to date.


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## gtrguy (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks, thoroughly enjoyed going through the thread!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

... i managed to not realize what was going on and posted in the middle of it. Now who looks the fool. Well, to be fair, we already knew. 

You do some mighty fine work my man!!


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Looks good!


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Rough sanded the inlays flush with the fingerboard, plus a bit to get rid of the ball-nose machine bit marks. 













































Came out pretty nice. 

Now I’ll fret slot to the proper depth, then finish sand the fingerboard.


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## jdto (Sep 30, 2015)

That is pretty cool to see. Thanks for sharing.


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## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Incredible.


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## Paul Running (Apr 12, 2020)

Detailed images of fine craftmanship, well done.


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## DrumBob (Aug 17, 2014)

I wish I had the talent to build a guitar like this. Very nice so far.


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## Stephenlouis (Jun 24, 2019)

Moodivarius said:


> Progress this evening.
> 
> Cut a neck pocket template on the CNC to accept the tenon of the neck template.
> 
> ...


Amazing!


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## jfk911 (May 23, 2008)

Well that's one way to make me feel untalented and useless ha. Good Job looks fantastic, cant wait to see the finished product!


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## Always12AM (Sep 2, 2018)

Man this is wicked.
Thanks for sharing.


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## Parabola (Oct 22, 2021)

Excellent work!


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## moleng1 (Mar 25, 2017)

Geez!!! I was thinking about building a guitar, but all I have is a jigsaw, a hammer, and 2 different sizes of chisels, do you think I could do this with those.............. on my kitchen table.............. between meals?? LOL

Your talent is amazing!! Such a learning experience to watch you work!!


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

moleng1 said:


> Geez!!! I was thinking about building a guitar, but all I have is a jigsaw, a hammer, and 2 different sizes of chisels, do you think I could do this with those.............. on my kitchen table.............. between meals?? LOL
> 
> Your talent is amazing!! Such a learning experience to watch you work!!


To be fair.... I did.
I won't tell you how it turned out 🤣


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

moleng1 said:


> do you think I could do this with those.............. on my kitchen table.............. between meals??





Mark Brown said:


> To be fair.... I did.
> I won't tell you how it turned out 🤣


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Frets slots cut to proper depth, fretboard sanded. 120, 220, 320, 420, 600, & 800gt

220gt











320gt











400gt











600gt











800gt











All inlays look nice.






















Just the smallest bottom, one tiny bubble pocket.









Made a little depth gauge tool like a fellow member’s of TDPRI. 























Now I’ll fret next.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Didn’t have a full day of work today, so decided to try the tool-paths on the CNC with 2” styro.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I see you're going for that lighter tone with the styrofoam.

Seriously though,... you're providing a true clinic on what quality guitar building is all about. It's better than any reality show on the tube.

I see you reside in northwestern Ontario,... are you near the Kenora Lake of the Woods area?


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Midnight Rider said:


> I see you're going for that lighter tone with the styrofoam.
> 
> Seriously though,... you're providing a true clinic on what quality guitar building is all about. It's better than any reality show on the tube.
> 
> I see you reside in northwestern Ontario,... are you near the Kenora Lake of the Woods area?


Thanks. 

This is about my 7th guitar from scratch. Made about 12 necks. This is my first LP style. 
Learning from other post on all of the different forums.

I’m in Dryden. About 130km east of Kenora.


Scott


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Bound and sanded again. 


































Now frets.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Sitting in place to have a look.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Thanks.
> 
> This is about my 7th guitar from scratch. Made about 12 necks. This is my first LP style.
> Learning from other post on all of the different forums.
> ...


Moved from Kenora to southern Ontario in 1998. Spent a lot of time over the years Muskie fishing in Eagle, Dinorwick and Wabigoon Lakes and hunting the lands between Kenora, Dryden and Thunder Bay. Golfed a few rounds at Eagles Landing golf course. Sure miss that country side in the north and strongly considering moving back on a lake with log home to ride out the remaining years. 

May be a long shot but do you know anyone from the Hall, Pronger, Peloquin, Skead, Seymour, Coulis, Kelly, Keith, Hendy, Sullivan, Brose or Paul families?

Looks like you have a great handle on building guitars,... have or will you take on builds from customers now or in the future?


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Fretted this afternoon.

I had some stainless, always wanted to try.

They didn’t break my fret end cutters. Not as hard as I expected. Pinched twice & bent, to break.











Sanded the tangs off on my DIY knife making belt sander.











All ready for pressing in.










A little CA glue in fret slot with toothpick.

The fingerboard curved upward after all the frets where installed.






















Clamped down to see if it’ll flatten out.











Trim fret ends & dress this evening.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Midnight Rider said:


> Moved from Kenora to southern Ontario in 1998. Spent a lot of time over the years Muskie fishing in Eagle, Dinorwick and Wabigoon Lakes and hunting the lands between Kenora, Dryden and Thunder Bay. Golfed a few rounds at Eagles Landing golf course. Sure miss that country side in the north and strongly considering moving back on a lake with log home to ride out the remaining years.
> 
> May be a long shot but do you know anyone from the Hall, Pronger, Peloquin, Skead, Seymour, Coulis, Kelly, Keith, Hendy, Sullivan, Brose or Paul families?


Some names are familiar. 

I’m there are mutual people we both know.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Decided to build a headstock veneer & bind, before I glue the fingerboard on. 

Used some birdseye maple from maple cap scraps. Found a large enough piece from around profile cut. 
Cut about 1/8” thick piece off with table saw. Then 2-way taped the smooth side to a straight piece to skim through the thickness planer. 












Then cut out headstock profile on the CNC.












Then stepped it in 1/16” for the binding. 




































Removed excess veneer from around edges.












Bent binding to fit & glued to side of headstock veneer.




































Rough sanded close to veneer. 












Next


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Flush sanded veneer by hand. 




































Now to remove from 2-way tape without damaging it. 

Might need to warm it up a bit with heat gun to soften glue on tape.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Got it off the base without breaking things.
































Some eye candy! 😜😜























I’m liking it.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Coming along nicely!


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Frets sanded flush to edge of fingerboard, & headstock veneer glued up.

Put hardware on to have another look.





























Glue up fretboard to neck this evening.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Moodivarius said:


> Frets sanded flush to edge of fingerboard, & headstock veneer glued up.
> 
> Put hardware on to have another look.
> 
> ...


.....I think you need more clamps.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Fretboard glued up.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Got it off the base without breaking things.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Master Craftsmanship☝,...👏.
Can't wait to see this lady stained, coated, strung and played.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Round-over done on back. Sanded to 320gt. 












































Getting close.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Carved the neck profile this aft.

I bought a Shinto sawrasp a month ago, and this is my first try with it. 
Works great! Easy to remove a lot of material by hand. 





























Between a Les Paul profile, & a Fender Modern C. 




























































Still have to refine the heel yet.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Your wood gave me wood!

I love that you carved it by hand. That just made me a happy little man. Fantastic looking work sir, I hope someday to do what you do. For now, I am content to watch.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

Moodivarius said:


> Shinto sawrasp


Looks like a cool tool.


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## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

Looks good but if I did that in the house herself would make that a club!


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Drilled out the tuner holes and sanded/filed the mahogany headstock to flush up with binding on veneer.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Heel refined.





























Not sure if I will taper the corner of the body slightly, so when you go up into the cutaway, your hand will transition a bit better, instead of the square corner.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Moodivarius said:


> Heel refined.
> 
> View attachment 412879
> 
> ...


How come the pocket is angled off like that??

I wouldn't touch the corner, the lines are so purdy as it is, but that is just me.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Mark Brown said:


> How come the pocket is angled off like that??
> 
> I wouldn't touch the corner, the lines are so purdy as it is, but that is just me.


It was upside down, just set in the pocket for a pic. 

Once pressed down, it fits proper.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Thanks 
I knew better than to think it was an error so I needed to know why


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Just checking things out, so when I glue the neck, it’ll be straight.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Playing with some dyes to experiment with a burst. 
Used ColorFX dyes in isopropyl alcohol. 
Yellow yellow/Amber/Redish maroon. 











I really like how the colours came out. 

But went blotchy after it dried. 












Not sure why.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Damn.
Re: heel, do the huber cutaway. It is sublime.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Playing with some dyes to experiment with a burst.
> Used ColorFX dyes in isopropyl alcohol.
> Yellow yellow/Amber/Redish maroon.
> 
> ...


Would it there be less of a chance of it drying blotchy if the dye was mixed with water?
Also, will you be using the CrystaLac Top Coat Instrument finish?


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Another try of dyes. Did some research. 

Base coat was de-waxed amber shellac.











Then burst, inside to out, yellow/amber/reddish-maroon. I let dry & brushed on a couple quick coats of nitro lacquer to see.











This is yellow/amber & nitro.











No blotching.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I am traditionalist with conservative preferences. I like the yellow & amber.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Also like the yellow/amber & nitro,... makes the 🍁 grain and those 👁👁 pop nicely.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Marker dots this aft.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

After supper, decided to pull the pin & go for it.

Taped up. 










1st coat of de-waxed Garnet shellac. 











Another.











Sanded back lightly, ready to dye. 











A couple good rubs of Yellow. 










Wife shot the pic. 










A couple Amber around edges.











Then some red/blue to make deep maroon. 










Pics don’t show red that well.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I laid on a quite a bit of red on the outer burst to get more colour.
Then noticed little balls building up.











I guess red pigments build up wierd.

Waited to dry. Sanded back to get rid of them.












Sanded back lightly to make a faded burst.












Then decided to put a couple coats of amber over the complete cap.












Matched the headstock.










Binding scraped.

Well, I was going for a darker maroon-red outer burst, but ended up as this. Kinda the original plan I was going for, the Peter Green guitar look.




































Pics don’t show colours correct, even editing. It’s slightly more golden orange.

I’m happy with it. 😁😁

Now on to the mahogany grain fill.
I like natural, but the wood has some slight grey mineral staining, so I want to even it out. Maybe a light brown tone.











Ideas?


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> After supper, decided to pull the pin & go for it.
> 
> Wife shot the pic.


Ah-hah!,...the Craftsman behind the custom handmade work of art.
No meal I've ever prepare looks as good on my kitchen table as that guitar does on yours,... and that includes Moose or Venison backstrap with a side of Walleye.


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## MarkM (May 23, 2019)

Midnight Rider said:


> Ah-hah!,...the Craftsman behind the custom handmade work of art.
> No meal I've ever prepare looks as good on my kitchen table as that guitar does on yours,... and that includes Moose or Venison backstrap with a side of Walleye.


Ah the classic Lake and Bush!

That guitar is beautiful, thanks for sharing this journey with us!


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I was looking for a Gibson font, & was steered to a place to buy one. Loads into Windows fonts, and can be used in any program that uses fonts. 












I’ll do on waterslide, like my others. Print backwards on laser printer, colour in gold & apply to headstock. Seal under lacquer.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Played with some tints in CrystaLac grain filler and rubbed them on. 










Looking for amber, but wen I tint I with Amber, turns to almost brown mustard look. 











Not really the colour I want yet.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Now on to the mahogany grain fill.
> I like natural, but the wood has some slight grey mineral staining, so I want to even it out. Maybe a light brown tone.
> 
> 
> ...


Have you looked at this product?
*Target Coatings HSF5100 High Solids Filler*
Target Coatings HSF5100 is a high solids, thermoset urethane grain filler formulated for application by trowel, brush or spray.
Specifically engineered to provide a smooth, non-textured appearance on open grained woods like Oak, Ash, Walnut, *Mahogany*, etc.
Supplied as a neutral colored (tan-putty color) filler that can be used directly on light colored woods. _*Filler can be tinted to suit darker woods as required and to prevent a "grey" color in the open grain.*_ Apply filler directly over bare wood if desired or over pre-stained, sealed surfaces.

Brush and wipe filler into grain/pores and allow to set for 5 to 10 minutes. Squeegee off excess and allow to dry for 2 hours. Level sand with 400 grit paper and re-apply filler if required or proceed to remainder of finishing schedule.

The fast drying nature of this system allows topcoats to be applied in as little as 2 hours of initial dry-to-touch time with any water-based topcoat finishing system.


Low VOC
Water Clean-Up
Non-Flammable
Supplied as Neutral (tan-putty, NOT transparent) color
Tintable with ColorFX Dyes, Mixol Pigments or UTCs to create matching or contrasting grain patterns
Spray, Brush or Wipe on









Also think you are near spot on with the Peter Green look,... I believe he would have approved.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I kinda like the Garnet shellac on the mahogany.


On right.









Brings out the grain nice. Kinda golden.

I could just put on plain, un-tinted CrystaLac grain filler, then Amber shellac.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> I kinda like the Garnet shellac on the mahogany.
> 
> 
> On right.
> ...


My vote for the sample on the right.Appears in the photo to blend in with the top nicely.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Sprayed a couple light coats of nitro to seal the dye burst. Then glued the neck in.

































Grain starting to come back.











Contoured a transition at the heel.

































Transparent grain filler on mahogany, then tinted shellac. Finish with nitrocellulose lacquer.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Love it my man. Really starting to take shape!!

I can't even imagine trying to stain that birds eye. Maple is a monster at the best of times.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Mark Brown said:


> Love it my man. Really starting to take shape!!
> 
> I can't even imagine trying to stain that birds eye. Maple is a monster at the best of times.


I did some research online 

I rubbed on a coat of Garnet shellac, prior to bursting with dyes.


Seemed to have worked ok.


Scott


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Beautiful! It is coming alive and the excitement continues to escalate towards the finished product.
It's like watching the gestation period and birth of a child.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Rubbed in CrystaLac transparent grain filler and sanded back.










Well, when I wiped on the Garnet tinted shellac, anywhere it wasn’t sanded right back to bare wood, I could see a milky looking area. It softened, as a white paste, and I scraped off with a broke knife blade. Took some time, but all filled, and a couple of wiped on coats of Garnet tinted shellac applied











Enhanced the grain an added a nice tint to the mahogany.

Almost ready for some clear nitro lacquer.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Sprayed 3 coats of lacquer this afternoon. 



































































Starting to look better.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

3 more coats earlier today.


Some different angles really shows the birdseye figuring off.





















Getting some shine to it.






















Set it beside the birdseye violin I built 15 years ago.
Kinda like a little brother.

































A few more coats of lacquer, then leave it to cure a while, before wet sanding & buffing.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> 3 more coats earlier today.
> 
> 
> Some different angles really shows the birdseye figuring off.
> ...


Looks great and a nice match next to the violin.
What else do you build,... canoes, log homes, ships, 'Spruce Goose' aircraft, cellos, pianos, kitchen cabinets?
I've have a feeling there has to be something, lol.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Midnight Rider said:


> Looks great and a nice match next to the violin.
> What else do you build,... canoes, log homes, ships, 'Spruce Goose' aircraft, cellos, pianos, kitchen cabinets?
> I've have a feeling there has to be something, lol.


Tube amps, houses, etc.

A Red sealed Carpenter for 33 years.
Been an Amateur Radio(Ham) operator for 28 years. Fix radios, climb towers, play with computers, play guitar, fiddle, was in a country band as a teenager. Outdoors at every weekend at camp, fishing or hunting in the fall with my 2 boys, when they can come. 
No moss under my feet.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Worked on headstock logo tonight.

Found a place to purchase Gibson font. Printed on waterslide paper on laser printer

1.0











2.0. Printed outline, then reverse, then colours in with silver craft marker.






















Now the date decal on rear.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Headstock decal 3.0. :lol::lol:

Didn't like how the other one, 2.0, went too close to the edges of the headstock. 

Made another, slightly smaller for better proportion with my headstock. Was fun colouring in the smaller lettering. 

3.0











2.0











Liking 3.0 better.


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## laristotle (Aug 29, 2019)

I think that it'd look ok leveled off too.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Coming along!


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

laristotle said:


> I think that it'd look ok leveled off too.
> View attachment 414100


That looks good as well.

Went on the angle the same as Gibson. The font angled that way as well.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Decided, I might as well go all out & make cavity covers & truss rod cover.

Didn’t like the black truss rod on the headstock.











Went with birdseye maple, of corse.

Design











Cut out.





















Before sanding to thickness.





















A few rubbed on coats of amber tinted shellac.











Then a few coats of nitro lacquer tomorrow.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

of course you did


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

After a few coats of amber shellac rubbed on































The truss rod cover might get some dye, like the outer edge of the burst. 

The rear cavity covers match the birdseye stipe down the middle of the neck.

Clear nitro on covers next.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Waterslide decal.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

A little burst on the truss rod cover. 










Some clear on the covers.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

I like that you incorporated a 4 digit serial, thats shows a strong inclination for future ambition 

You're almost there man and its looking sharp!


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Tube amps, houses, etc.
> 
> A Red sealed Carpenter for 33 years.
> Been an Amateur Radio(Ham) operator for 28 years. Fix radios, climb towers, play with computers, play guitar, fiddle, was in a country band as a teenager. Outdoors at every weekend at camp, fishing or hunting in the fall with my 2 boys, when they can come.
> No moss under my feet.


Yup, Red Sealed Carpenter,... that would fully explain your building skills,. Long shot question, but do you know any Red Sealed Carpenters in southern Ontario. Looking to do some renovations in the house and want a qualified individual. Did all my own work up until the last couple years as the backbone ain't what it used to be. Already let go one hired renovator due to inadequate work quality.

Did the same when I lived in Kenora,... fishing and camping almost every weekend during the summer on Lake of the Woods or down the logging roads at some small inland lakes,... the whole lake to yourself,... as you may know. Hunting in the fall as well usually in WMU 2, 3, 5, 6, 7B or 8. Worked for the MNR for several years and have hundreds of the depth contour (Bathymetry) maps across Ontario which include lake description, fish species and access points. Let me know if you want some for lakes in your area and I'll send them off.

Now knowing you fix radios I have attached some photos of a German made 1958/59 Blaupunkt Riviera 3D radio model #2540. Wondering if you know anything about this particular radio and what it may be worth. Debating whether I should sell it or keep it.

Anyways, enough side tracking for now, Looking forward to the guitar build completion,... looking real good.


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Waterslide decal.


Huh,...#8 eh,... when can I put my order in? 😁


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Midnight Rider said:


> Yup, Red Sealed Carpenter,... that would fully explain your building skills,. Long shot question, but do you know any Red Sealed Carpenters in southern Ontario. Looking to do some renovations in the house and want a qualified individual. Did all my own work up until the last couple years as the backbone ain't what it used to be. Already let go one hired renovator due to inadequate work quality.
> 
> Did the same when I lived in Kenora,... fishing and camping almost every weekend during the summer on Lake of the Woods or down the logging roads at some small inland lakes,... the whole lake to yourself,... as you may know. Hunting in the fall as well usually in WMU 2, 3, 5, 6, 7B or 8. Worked for the MNR for several years and have hundreds of the depth contour (Bathymetry) maps across Ontario which include lake description, fish species and access points. Let me know if you want some for lakes in your area and I'll send them off.
> 
> ...


My Dad is a carpenter as well, but he could never have the patience for this. He is a framer, & likes to get lots done in a day. 
Sorry I don’t know any carpenters from the far south.


Those are cool looking radios. I don’t do much old tube stuff, other than guitar amps. Ham radios are newer, 80’s vintage.  

I would be possibly interested in some maps. PM me & we will chat about what you have.

My dad had a lot of friends that worked at MNR. I’m sure you know a few of the old guys from the Dryden office.

Scott


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Wet sanded & buffed body this evening. Headstock got sprayed a few days ago, so I’ll wait a while for that. 
800gt with soapy water. Changed water out a couple times. 











A dull smooth Finish. 










Mothers Pure Polish, then Minwax car wax with sheepskin pad. 





















You can see my Jazzcaster in the mirror finish.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Some more picks in better light. 

Dining light reflecting well. 






















Grain filler on back didn’t fill quite 100%, so couldn’t get it as nice of finish. 





















Hard to stop looking at the birdseye maple top figuring. 












































The neck joint came out nice as well. 






















I’m happy with the way the finish came out.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

So.... where do I send payment and how soon can you ship it out buddy?


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> Some more picks in better light.
> 
> Dining light reflecting well.
> 
> ...


Beautiful!,... shine on you crazy💎.
The way I see it is no-one really sees or is focused on the backside of the guitar and if you hadn't mentioned it I probably wouldn't have noticed,... a little buckle rash over the years may take care of it anyways, 😁.

Just a suggestion if interested ,and this is not to say the 'Mothers' polish is not a great product, but have you heard of the 'Zaino' polish and shine maintenance products? If not I highly recommend to give them a try. Over several years I was using Mothers, Autoglym, Nu Finish, Meguiar's and Simoniz products on my cars,... and with impressive results.

However, it wasn't until I tried the 'Zaino' products that the shine results went to the next level. Their products are highly concentrated and one bottle will last for years of use,... in fact it only takes about an ounce of their polish to detail my entire car and when mixing in the ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive you can apply multiple coats in one day rather than having to wait for lengthy cure times as with other products. The more coats the deeper the shine and if applying the Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal between each coat the effect is even a deeper wetter look and yes I do use it on my guitars.

The company has a store in Guelph, Ontario and if interested you can contact Mike Adams at 519-763-8473 or email [email protected].
Zaino Canada: Welcome


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Midnight Rider said:


> Beautiful!,... shine on you crazy💎.
> The way I see it is no-one really sees or is focused on the backside of the guitar and if you hadn't mentioned it I probably wouldn't have noticed,... a little buckle rash over the years may take care of it anyways, 😁.
> 
> Just a suggestion if interested ,and this is not to say the 'Mothers' polish is not a great product, but have you heard of the 'Zaino' polish and shine maintenance products? If not I highly recommend to give them a try. Over several years I was using Mothers, Autoglym, Nu Finish, Meguiar's and Simoniz products on my cars,... and with impressive results.
> ...


Thanks for the info.


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## Budda (May 29, 2007)

Man that top has awesome depth with the gloss finish. Damn.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

I saw on Gil Yaron’s LP build page on TDPRI forum, showing how he aligned his bridge mounting correct.

I took a piece of thin walnut cut slightly larger than the base of the bridge. Then, drilled & tapped the studs into it to mount bridge, like a hollow body.
I put the bridge in place, tuned the high & low E strings. Moved the bridge lengthwise, re-tuned, till I got intonation very close. Also aligned sideways to line the strings down the edge of the fingerboard.






















I then removed the bridge studs, & used a 1/8” drill bit to mark where the holes will get drilled on the top of the body.










Then I drilled the stud holes to the proper depth, & tapped the hole with my new 4mm tap.










I used a pair of needle nosed pliers, & vise-grips to tighten the two adjusting nuts together at the top of stud. Then I was able to tighten the studs down in the hole, bottoming out, at the proper height. I read that this will transfer the most vibrations of the strings to the body.










All in place, ready to install more hardware.


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

That is a brilliant idea, see where I went wrong was I just guessed, 3 times.... and still got it wrong. My build weighs a whole lot less than when I started though 🤣


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Well,... that's a free bridge building clinic right there,


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Worked on wiring today.













































All working as it should.

Remove the 2 tuners, wet sand & buff headstock in the morning.
Then install all of the tuners, & it’ll be ALIVE!! 😲😲


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Moodivarius said:


> Worked on wiring today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You didn't need to wire it for me man, I could have done that. It should already be in the mail, what is taking so long anyway??


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Fretboard all cleaned of glue remanence, polished, fret ends dressed, frets polished & fingerboard oiled.












































Headstock wet wet-sanded & buffed. Tuners installed. 
Poor planning on label placement. MADE IN ANAD. 🙄 Oh well.


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

All strung up & playable.
































Out of phase push/pull on neck tone gives an interesting sound with both pickups selected, & Vol of each rolled back to a certain position.

Weighed in at 7.2lbs. I guess the weight relief was worth it.


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## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Demo?


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## Midnight Rider (Apr 2, 2015)

Moodivarius said:


> All strung up & playable.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Absolutely brilliant build.










He surely would have approved.


----------



## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Moodivarius said:


> Poor planning on label placement. MADE IN ANAD


Oh how I know this feeling. Getting all the hard parts perfect and the stupidest little thing defeats you. Lucky for you man, I won't see it often when it is hanging on my wall so you know what, I don't think its a big deal. I'll still pay what we agreed on...


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## Mark Brown (Jan 4, 2022)

Me again, in case you are wondering why I might keep up this hopeful charade it is because perhaps subliminally it might take hold and you will eventually be convinced that the guitar was in fact after all built for me.... at my behest no less. Worse thing that could happen is it might just not work


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## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Mark Brown said:


> Me again, in case you are wondering why I might keep up this hopeful charade it is because perhaps subliminally it might take hold and you will eventually be convinced that the guitar was in fact after all built for me.... at my behest no less. Worse thing that could happen is it might just not work


Sound like a auction to me.


----------



## Moodivarius (Feb 26, 2021)

Demo soon.

Just picked up one of these today. It will plug into TRRS-Lightning adapter, then to iPhone. 












Play through to your amp, & also record audio to my iPhone simultaneously, while taking video.


----------



## SWLABR (Nov 7, 2017)

Moodivarius said:


> Demo soon.
> 
> Just picked up one of these today. It will plug into TRRS-Lightning adapter, then to iPhone.
> 
> ...


I have one of these, but I haven’t used it since I upgraded my phone to one without the earbud jack. I didn’t know there was an adapter.
Cool!


----------

