# To be a Luthier you will need:



## keeperofthegood (Apr 30, 2008)

1) tools
2) materials: woods and hardware
3) inspiration and instruction​
It would be great to have a sticky thread that helps Luthiers and Students to find and share these resources for their craft.

Let me start off with just three links and let people add to this list from the resources they know:

1) Tools

Lee Valley Tools has a good selection of tools, many that are well usable in the art of the Luthier.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/index.aspx?c=2


2) materials: woods and hardware

In Burlington Ontario Canada there is Exotic Woods:

http://www.exotic-woods.com/musical/guitar.aspx


3) inspiration and instruction

Sometimes, often, it is simply good to hear what others that build think or feel or what their tips and tricks and experience has taught them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrxM5nGALpQ


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

I have discussed this many times before, and love to talk shop so to speak.

I started building guitars at a young age - when one is "young & stupid" and doesnt understand that you just arent supposed to try things (at least thats what many adults I know think) that look hard to do!

WHat I think is most important above ALL else... is the will and desire to succeed. I have tried many things in my short time on this earth - and some turned out really well, some were total disasters... but EVERY one of those experiences were, well, experiences! You learn more from mistakes than you do successes, at least IMO.

So, #1 in my book is you really want to try building a guitar for the SAKE of building a guitar first. Forget about building your dream guitar (that will come later), or forget about trying to save money (that too will come later when you build yourself a better "brand X" for 1/4 the cost). For now, just prepare ypurself mentally for the fact the 1st/2nd/3rd try may not be that great (or it may be.. who knows) and thats OK.

#2 - you need to do some research. Buy a few good books - there are many out there now - and READ them. Not just glance them over, read them untill you understand the entire process of building a guitar. If there are some things you dont "get", dont stop untill you understand them. Break the steps down into small ones and it really isnt that hard. But you DO need to understand what is going on and how to make sure that your guitar will turn out playable (certain things like scale length, neck and bridge placement, string path - which will determine action and playability and string side to side position) are very important. Others, like the size of your control cavity, the controls placement, body outlines, etc are niot going to render the instrument unplayable although the ergonomics and tones will change.

#3 - acuire the BASIC amount of tools only! DOnt go out and buy hundreds or more of dollars worth of tools before you even get started! I am a professional woodworker, and I still think a long time before I invest into a tool(s). I remember back in 1990, when I (as a university student) was working on another guitar and I went to buy 4 spokeshaves. It was about $120 and at that time that was a lot of $$ to me. Well, I developed a means of shaping my necks by sanding and never used the spokeshaves! They are still hanging unused in my shop to this day. Buy a tool if you will use it.

Minimum tools IMO will be a jigsaw or bandsaw to cut out the body and neck banks. A decent palm sander (I recomend the DeWalt 5" random orbital for a low cost, pro grade sander) and lots of sandpaper in various grits. A 3/4 to 1 1/4 HP router will be an asset although I often make due without - using instead a drill press and a few good sharp Forstner bits, and a hand chisel or two. Some files are good to have as well (or a rasp and file).

For specialty tools, ie, fretting - I say start with again the basics. Dont splurge on all sorts of specialty tools untill you decide you want to make guitars after #1. I bought my tools over many years - adding one or twoi here as needed or to make my work easier.

#4 wood - again, dont be too anal on the first few guitars in terms of wood selection... woods such as maple, poplar, ash, etc are pretty cheap if you get them from a cabinet shop. Save the ebony/RW/etc for later on...

Thats enough for now  But remember, enjoy the journey and DONT get frustrated. LEARN from your errors (there will be lots). Have fun!

AJC


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## rhh7 (Mar 14, 2008)

I don't aspire to build guitars, I would just like to learn to do simple repairs and setup on my Strats and Teles. I have the books, and I am going to watch videos on YouTube. But I am so intimidated.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

rhh7 said:


> I don't aspire to build guitars, I would just like to learn to do simple repairs and setup on my Strats and Teles. I have the books, and I am going to watch videos on YouTube. But I am so intimidated.


Again, break the procedures down into steps...

The major things involved in a setup (assuming there are no issues with the guitar that are not solved by a setup) are:

- Bridge adjustment (saddle height, fore/aft placement and radius)
- neck adjustment (truss rod) to straighten, or bow to the desired relief
- nut adjustment (slot depth and angle)
- pickup heights

Going a little further, you can get into spot dressing or an entire fret dressing, and more!

What exactly are you intimidated by? I am sure there are guys here that will help...

Remember, there is not muxh that you can do that isnt reversable, (just dont overtighten the truss rod, ie, it shouldnt require a lot of force to turn the adjustment nut and if it does then you may want to leave it to a pro)

AJC


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## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

I've read books on how to build a guitar, not so much so I can build my own, but to learn how they're put together, and that's helped me understand them better--especially for maintenance and minor repairs.

And while I would love to build my own--I've been convinced by reading them I don't possess the abilities to build my own, except maybe a simple kit type thing. 

I do have some parts from years ago that I was going to use to convert my EB-3 copy (SG shape) into an SG copy and build a new body for the bass.

I was planning to use all the hardware & pickups for the bass, so the hard part would have been the body.

I bought an SG type neck I would have used for the SG copy, and bought some of the parts I needed before I changed my mind about the bass--and I'm glad I did--I love that bass now. Some of the parts got used in modding my Les Paul a few years later--and some will get used in modding my LP copy. So they weren't wasted--but modding is different from building, and I had others do some of the work as well.

Still a good list of resources would be cool to have here.


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## rhh7 (Mar 14, 2008)

I guess I've always been nervous to do irreversible damage. 

Thanks, AJC. I admire how you encourage people.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

I look at things visually - have been learning this way since I was a kid. I dont do well with memory work (thats why I have a heck of a time trying to remember lyrics) and I even remember songs by how my hands move around the fretboard.

Anyhow, lets take a simple guitar like a Telecaster. Here is how I approach the project, in my visual means..

BODY: look at it as a black of wood, 1 3/4" thick, and roughly 13" wide by 18 or so inches long. First, visualize the outline of the body... 
Then, you have the neck pocket - which is just a cavity with a flat bottom parallel to the face of the body, and with the center line of the cavity over the centerline of the body.
The pickup cavities and the control plate cavity are just holes that are a certain depth, and outlien made in the body... again, just a matter of laying out the outlines and making sure they are in the right spot. The bridge position is determined by the distance from the nut (once the neck is fit) to the bridge saddles, and put on the centerline of the body. The bridge holes are just holes drilled through the body in the right spot 

DRill the hole for the output jack. And the neck plate holes.

Some radius along the front and back edge and sanding and thats about it.

NECK: AGain, think of the starting point, a milled blank of wood. For a Tele I use a 3/4" thick piece of wood about 27" long and 3 1/2" wide (to allow the headstock to be cut from one piece).

The first thing I do is cut the truss rod slot (using a dual action rod with the adjustment at the heel) and fit the rod. The fretboard is glued onto the blank, centered.

Then the outline of the neck can be cut (looking down from above) as well as the headstock shape.
Next, the headstock can be thinned out. Just look at it from the side and imagine the shape.

Fit the heel into the body. The frets are usually put in at this point (when I do it). Then the final thing is to shape the neck. I like to sand my necks to shape, but you can use a rasp/file/hand plane/surform/spokeshave/etc - anything goes. Just go by trial and feel. Or make templates off of a neck you like and work until the match up.

Final sanding and thats pretty much it besides doing the fret leveling and finish.

Guitar building - its not "rocket surgery" :rockon2: - its woodworking. Think of it one step at a time...

AJC


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

rhh7 said:


> I guess I've always been nervous to do irreversible damage.


Just dont force anything. If you adjust ANYTHING on a guitar that is made to be adjusted you will NOT wreck it. If you force something you can - small Allen head machine screws and so forth can be stripped if you muscle it. Same with truss rods. But they are all made to be adjusted, thats the point!

AJC


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

Good measurement tools, first and foremost. Then good cutting tools relevant, to the job (a band saw is great), then sanding tools (I use an orbital, and two bench mounted disc/belt sanders of different sizes).

If acoustics are the main interest (as opposed to soild bodies), clamps and lots of them, short bar clamps, kerf clamps, etc.

Peace, Mooh.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

Mooh said:


> Good measurement tools, first and foremost.
> Peace, Mooh.


I use a standard tape measure accurate to 1/32" for most measurement, and a digital readout caliper for the finer stuff. Luckily today you can get a Chinese vernier caliper from places like Busy Bee Tools for about $30 - a very valuable tool, accurate in thousandth of inches and a fast and easy way to lay out stuff, measure neck thicknesses and widths, etc.

The only specialty measuring tool I have is the nut layout ruler from Stewart Macdonald, which automatically compensates for string thickness and once you select the outer two strings, places the inner 4 perfectly.

AJC


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## AGP1 (Jun 18, 2008)

Ok this may help someone trying get started... 

I have a craftsman Radial arm saw, only a few years old, great condition but I neither use it or have room to store it. If it would be of use to anyone on the forum they are welcome to have it, no charge, the only catch is you will have to collect it from Markham. 


Let me know if you want it. 

A


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## keeperofthegood (Apr 30, 2008)

rhh7 said:


> I guess I've always been nervous to do irreversible damage.
> 
> Thanks, AJC. I admire how you encourage people.



 I am glad I have started this thread now for sure. I am probably in much the same boat as you are. I have dabbled, and I have some idea on some aspects but I am my self by no means a Luthier. 

So, I have plotted in my head "how" I would go about learning to "become" a Luthier. I bid on broken guitars or other wood instruments on eBay. I follow and appreciate and have built a Cigar Box Guitar. And I talk and ask questions a lot. Apartment living aside, I go slow and try to understand why I do what I do.

I think my comment in the thread that got me thinking of making a good solid "how to" thread does give the best notion of how to proceed with learning the Art of the Luthier. Well, at least of the solid body electrics anyways. 

For the body, go with plywood, and do so for these reasons:
1) the sound wont be necessarily the best,
2) you will be faced with edge filling a lot, 
3) it wont break the bank, 
4) you can make mistakes and change your mind as you go or even scrap it and start over without weeping for the loss of the "good" wood. 
5) you want a 'thickness" and with plywood you can build up a thickness even at 1/8 inch at a time very easily, you can get to that 'sweet point' in small steps by starting small rather than starting thick and working down, or starting at a set thickness thinking to work it down only to find you are starting off too thin. Or worse, you over work your wood and suddenly need to add more back. ​Starting off with plywood in the 'just learning' stage gives you a lot of these flexibilities and opportunities for learning. Once you know what is working for size, shape, thickness, outline you can cut into a much more expensive piece of wood with confidence.

I should also mention places like Home Depot always have a very cheep off-cuts selection. The only "good" wood I think needed on a guitar is the neck. Long thin stick that it is. You can use broom handles yes, for 1 string. You can use poplar or red oak sticks for 2 to 4 strings easy or you can band saw an axe handle in half and the curve on an axe handle is very comfortable. For 6 or more, for the tension etc a good piece of hardwood is I think needed. :/ I would suggest using a pre-made neck the first time, a bolt on. Worry about building a neck after you get some confidence working with the body. Taking it in stages, one step at a time. You can also start off with prebuilt drop in pickup assemblies too, and take up soldering and the like later on.

@AJC has also had some really good and positive advice and information and I applaud the inspirations!

 I encourage others to add in links to supplies and the like as well.

@MOOH! YES, good tools are a must. Especially power tools. Broken spinning or otherwise moving blades can maim or kill.

Measure twice, cut once! That one act can save a person from many hours of labour; be it labour working on your project or working for the pay check that paid for your project!


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## rhh7 (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks, keeperofthegood! I really appreciate you as well!


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## WarrenG (Feb 3, 2006)

To be a luthier you will need to suck it up cupcake and build an acoustic guitar. That'll separate the men from the boys. Ha ha!


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## rhh7 (Mar 14, 2008)

Interesting, I have built an acoustic guitar. About 15 years ago, a retired luthier in Oregon sent me a kit in a box, a OOO, from seconds and AA wood. Solid mahogany neck, solid sitka spruce top, and solid east indian rosewood back and sides. It sat in my closet for almost a year, as I was afraid to tackle the project.

Finally, a friend who was a custom furniture builder developed a hobby of building high end acoustic dreadnoughts for country players. Not to my taste, very ornate and flashy. 

But he allowed me access to his band saw, joiners, and planers. I had a wonderful time building this guitar. It turned out very crude... not knowing any better, I used a Les Paul Custom headstock template. The headstock should have been Martin style.

Anyway, my son and my youngest daughter both learned to play guitar on this instrument. So it has special memories. My son had many professional gigs in Calgary, fronting a trio. He now does real estate in the states. My daughter is 21, my last child at home.


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

FWIW this was the book I used. I don't know how many times I read it, but many! He makes it fairly easy to understand, and there is a lot of info to digest. I just go over the chapters of the step I am working on at the moment.













BTW, I am a novice woodworker and no where near a luthier! I have some decent tools and I am willing to accept the fact that I am human and capable of making mistakes. Sure, it has cost a bit extra in materials, but it is only "stuff". The important parts are the reasons, desire, and passion you have for creating the instrument.


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## ajcoholic (Feb 5, 2006)

That is the 1st edition of that book. The 2nd updated edition has been out for a number of years now as well.

I had that book from the first year it came out. When I built my first Tele, I just did it by "eye", as well the local music store let me trace out a real tele and take some measurements since my dad bought all the parts through them. 

The first one was.. well, almost unplayable - due to the fact I didnt understand the fact the bridge placement is vital... after my father bought the Hiscock book from Lee Valley (a fairly new store at the time, in the mid 1980's) I was on my way!

THAT book is still my #1 fave.... always recommended.

AJC


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## shoretyus (Jan 6, 2007)

My input .. is that a set of well sharpened scrapers are a wonderful too. 

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32670&cat=1,310,41069


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## Ian John (Aug 11, 2009)

Willing to accept failure! Or am I the only one with the bum 1st? Second is better..Third ...fourth. mmmm to build great guitars....someone reading this has built hundred or so and looks on the next as being ...well..depends on the builder, just another one or the one! 

Regards Ian


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## Jim DaddyO (Mar 20, 2009)

ajcoholic said:


> That is the 1st edition of that book. The 2nd updated edition has been out for a number of years now as well.
> 
> I had that book from the first year it came out. When I built my first Tele, I just did it by "eye", as well the local music store let me trace out a real tele and take some measurements since my dad bought all the parts through them.
> 
> ...


Well, I have had the book for a fair number of years...lol. I have been wanting to do a build for a looooong time.


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## bscott (Mar 3, 2008)

For tools get a copy of the Stewart McDonald catalogue. That would be a start. As has been stated here a few times don't get loaded up on tools right away. You can also adapt some tools to do different jobs as well.
The only thing that I would advise you about purchasing tools is that when you do - get a top quality tool rather than the discount made in XChina one. It will the actually do the job it is supposed to and will last long than one job.
Also go to the kit guitar forum. It specialises in amateurs building guitars with the added benefit that a few professional luthiers provide advice. Great forum.

Brian


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