# Need Equipment for beginning small mods and repairs. Suggestions or recommendations?



## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

Santa brought me a soldering iron for Christmas and I want to begin learning more about electronics with an aim to eventually doing some minor mods or repairs to my amps. Before I get to that point, I plan on practicing soldering (aka learning how!) by simply connecting some odd wires together etc. Then I hope to move on to soldering speaker leads and a few speaker jacks. After that, I will start looking into making small amp mods.

I am aware of the dangers of working in amps. I have been studying how to discharge caps and want to learn how to do it properly. These videos are my basic guide thus far: 













I am looking for some tips in terms of what equipment I will need and where I can buy it. So far my parts list includes:


1.) Alligator Clips (for draining caps via V1 Pin 1 to chassis on amps using as 12a_7 in VI)

2.) 10 k resistor to prevent sparks will checking filter caps

3.) Digital Multimeter (for checking voltage levels)

4.) Third Hand

5.) Chopstick!



What stores in Canada have all this stuff? I would like to avoid shipping from the USA if at all possible.

Any specific model suggests appreciated and feel free to add anything I am missing.



Happy New Year Everbody,

TG


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## GWN! (Nov 2, 2014)

Electronic Raybel should have everything you are looking for.


http://www.raybel.com/main_fr/cont-sher.php


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## nonreverb (Sep 19, 2006)

Also Addison
Nous contacter


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Following this thread with interest. 

Have you considered building an effects pedal from a kit as a way of practicing soldering and learning about passive electronics components and circuits, etc? As in starting small with (safe) 9VDC and working your way up to tube amps. Just a thought.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

some type of wire strippers...get decent ones as it gets used a lot!









Flush cutters...










these are VERY handy..


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

This has been "handy" when the third hand just isn't enough...










Forceps...good for cramped spaces


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## GWN! (Nov 2, 2014)

Insulated screwdrivers. Solder sucker and desoldering braid. Different tip sizes for soldering iron.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Lots of solder! It always seems to disappear quickly
NOT LEAD FREE...unless you are ready to deal with the frustrations/complications involved when using it

A good selection of general hand tools...the list is endless

Some 22 gauge stranded hookup wire (for starters)










A well lit workspace..


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Read (or YouTube) as much about electronics theory as you can manage until your brain begins to turn to mush...then....start over


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

A good multimeter (not a $30 Cdn Tire cheapo) is a 'must have'. That's something that you've got to be able to trust.

Good hand tools, like screwdrivers, sidecutters, needlenose plyers, etc. The wrong sized philips screwdriver does more damage than good - and yes, there are different sizes. Wirestrippers and crimpers and vices/third hands are essential too, IMO. Here's another supplier option:

RP Electronics - Test Instruments , Power Supplies , Inverters , Electronic Project Kits and more!

I'd also recommend a big bag of a variety of resistors, not just a few 10k's or whatever. You'll need them eventually - and it's good color code practice to have to sort through them. 

But I can't stress enough (and reinforce what @GWN! posted) to learn to use different sized iron tips for different types of soldering. I always have two irons warmed up, one with a pointed pencil tip for small/delicate work and one with a much large spade type tip for soldering on the backs of pots or to the ground portion of a plug.

Thermal transfer is what it's all about - if you try to transfer a lot of heat to a large piece of metal (which will act like a heatsink), you need a lot of thermal capacity. Watts or degrees isn't as important as mass. A small hot tip, even if it's 900F, will take too long and you will damage components. You need a physically large tip to transfer heat quickly to a large component. Small tips leave wavy, half soldered wires in their wake. It's a pain in the ass to change tips, as you have to wait for the iron to cool first, but if you plan your work (all the small stuff, then all the large stuff), if isn't so bad.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Another supplier you could consider...

ABRA Electronics Corp.


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## Alistair6 (Jul 9, 2007)

Solder sucker tool is a must as well. 

There are lots of great books for AMP building and repairs so your local book store might be a good stop.. Or local library..

I learned how to solder and started with wiring guitars as well as pedals. I found a learned a HUGE amount from building my first kit amp. I got my hands on a ceriatone kit (Mathcless DC 30 clone) and wired it from scratch. It was an amazing learning experience. I took it to a local experienced amp tech before even firing it up to ensure everything was solid and get a green light from someone who knew what they were doing more than me..


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## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

GWN! said:


> Electronic Raybel should have everything you are looking for.
> 
> 
> http://www.raybel.com/main_fr/cont-sher.php



In Sherbrooke, you need Electro 5, not Raybel. KGE Electronics in Boucherville is a must-visit place -- blows the two local stores away.

We'll talk, TG.


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## bolero (Oct 11, 2006)

yes, two thumbs up for this thread!

I am a part time hack as well, looking to do a couple projects. thanks everyone for the tips ( no pun )


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## cboutilier (Jan 12, 2016)

greco said:


> Another supplier you could consider...
> 
> ABRA Electronics Corp.


We bought a lot of stuff from ABRA when I was teaching electronics.


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## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

greco said:


> these are VERY handy..


These are very handy until you knock it over and all your carefully organized components end up in a pile on the floor. *#*(

If you do get one, find one with some weight to it.

Much better to get one where the compartments lie horizontally, then you can also easily read the colour bands on the resistors, open the lid and pick out a few at a time.


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## GWN! (Nov 2, 2014)

I use Plano parts organizers storage cases. Like these.


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## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

GWN! said:


> I use Plano parts organizers storage cases. Like these.


That's the ticket! I just have a few of those flat cases without the stacking case, but yours is a space saver, and if it tips the lids will keep everything inside.


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## bolero (Oct 11, 2006)

wow that orange one even has a front lid too! so if it tips ( and the lid is closed ) it will also help keep everything together

where can I find those??

thanks


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## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

Thanks so much everyone, I've been reading and taking notes. PTWAmps even came over yesterday and showed me a few things in person! 

I have some of the things already mentioned. In fact, I did my first desoldering job yesterday by cleaning up the lugs on an old speaker: small steps!

I think I will buy a BYOC kit before getting too far into amps, and it will be a few cable repairs and speaker jack installs before I even attempt a pedal.

I won't cheap out on the multimeter as I don't want to have any mistakes or misreads leading to a safety concern.

The more I read about the electronics the stranger the world gets. Seriously, flying electrons, magnets, and the earth as ground??!! Weird but cool

BTW, can you still buy solder with lead in it?

TG


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## GWN! (Nov 2, 2014)

bolero said:


> wow that orange one even has a front lid too! so if it tips ( and the lid is closed ) it will also help keep everything together
> 
> where can I find those??
> 
> thanks


I have had those for quite a while. It was either Rona or Home Depot.


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## Guest (Jan 5, 2017)

I'm also going to suggest a tackle box.
My wife has two for her sewing supplies.












traynor_garnet said:


> BTW, can you still buy solder with lead in it?


Yes. I picked up a couple of small spools from 'The Source' not too long ago.


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## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

traynor_garnet said:


> Thanks so much everyone, I've been reading and taking notes. PTWAmps even came over yesterday and showed me a few things in person!
> 
> I have some of the things already mentioned. In fact, I did my first desoldering job yesterday by cleaning up the lugs on an old speaker: small steps!
> 
> ...


Go to Electro 5 on Industrial Blvd. They'll set you up with the right solder... and they sell the good Fluke multimeters.... plus the multicoloured shrink insulation, and 22 solid core wire... and good speaker and AC cable. They also sell those decent soldering irons I showed you yesterday. There's two older gentlemen behind the counter (one or other is usually there during peak hours) -- who won't look at you funny  when you start mentioning turret boards and terminal strips (neither of which they sell, unfortunately). One of them speaks English fairly well. Not sure about the younger guys as I speak French with them, but they all know what they are doing.


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

Great suggestions so far!

If you are going to be doing any more than minor soldering, please consider a fume extractor. The fumes will do damage to your lungs eventually.
They go from very simple and inexpensive, like the one below, to quite sophisticated multi-user units.
Aoyue 486 Benchtop Solder Smoke Absorber: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I have a ton of stuff left over when I started building pedals. I don't have the time so I could give you a good deal on all my leftovers. Caps, resistors, pots, wire, switches, pedal enclosures etc... If you are interested I'll take a photo of what I have. I also have a small supply of NOS Russian PIO caps. 
Her's a partial photo, most of the drawers have something in them. I also have a box of resisitors10 each of the most popular sizes,3 boxes of tantalum caps....


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

knight_yyz said:


> I have a ton of stuff left over when I started building pedals. I don't have the time so I could give you a good deal on all my leftovers. Caps, resistors, pots, wire, switches, pedal enclosures etc... If you are interested I'll take a photo of what I have. I also have a small supply of NOS Russian PIO caps.
> Her's a partial photo, most of the drawers have something in them. I also have a box of resisitors10 each of the most popular sizes,3 boxes of tantalum caps....


I'd certainly give this wonderful offer some serious consideration!! 

It will save you hours of sourcing parts and (almost certainly) a lot of associated shipping costs.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Ok, I have about 1300 resistors, about 20 of each of the most popular sizes, I have 25 bags of Polyester Film box type caps, each with about 10 per bag, electrolytic caps, there are some pedal board parts, power in, jacks etc. 2 Hammond 1590 BB enclosures, various diodes, IC chips, and there are 10 Russian PIO caps .22UF @ 200 volts, knobs, pots, ceramic caps, etc etc... I probably missed an item or two in the pics, but this is about 95% of it. Daughter boards for pedals, dip switches, stomp switches. There is enough stuff here to start a pedal business LOL...


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

knight_yyz said:


> and there are 10 Russian PIO caps .22UF @ 200 volts,


Are these PIO caps .22 uF or .022 uF ? 

If they are .022 uF (and hence suitable/typical for guitar), would you sell a couple of them? (obviously if @traynor_garnet doesn't want/need all of them).

Thanks

Dave


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I just want to confirm. The only PIO caps involved in the "sale" I posted above are the .22uf 200v PIO caps, because they wont work in a guitar. Amps or pedals for those ones. 


All the other PIO caps listed below I have are for me to work on my guitars and are not included in the above lot. 

I do have 10 russian PIO caps for all the common sizes, and some less common sizes to experiment with. I am keeping at least 5 of each for myself. 

I have 2200pf, or .0022uf, .6800pf, or .0068uf, 3300pf or. 0033uf, 4700pf or .0047uf, .015uf, .047uf, .01uf, .022uf, .033uf. Most of them are the k40y-9 but a few are k40n-2a,


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## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

knight_yyz said:


> I just want to confirm.


Knight_yyz, sorry for butting in (I refrained initially, but you keep going on) but this sort of sales pitchy stuff really should be conducted on the For Sale forum or by PM with the interested members. The OP wants for mod a few component values in a few amps he owns; not start a pedal company. I run a repair business and even I don't keep as much stuff on hand as you are offering. 

Sorry, but it had to be said.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

double post


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)




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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

PTWamps said:


> but this sort of sales pitchy stuff really should be conducted on the For Sale forum or by PM with the interested members.


I disagree and thought this offer went well with the whole "flow"/"spirit" of the thread. The financial details, shipping, etc could certainly be done through PM's /Conversation(s)



PTWamps said:


> The OP wants for mod a few component values in a few amps he owns; not start a pedal company. I run a repair business and even I don't keep as much stuff on hand as you are offering.


The OP might find that he can make good use of these components for many various types of electronics projects. We have no idea what the OP will want/do in the long term. I view this as a wonderful opportunity at the beginning of the OP's hobby.


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## PTWamps (Aug 5, 2016)

greco said:


> I disagree and thought this offer went well with the whole "flow"/"spirit" of the thread. The financial details, shipping, etc could certainly be done through PM's /Conversation(s)
> 
> 
> 
> The OP might find that he can make good use of these components for many various types of electronics projects. We have no idea what the OP will want/do in the long term. I view this as a wonderful opportunity at the beginning of the OP's hobby.


I do. I know him.

I made a polite suggestion, feeling that the thread was getting derailed. Knight-yyz -- that meme. Really? Are you 12? Sorry if that offends you. You should move on.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I'm sorry, who's offended? LMAO


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## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

So here is partial list of stuff I have in my shopping cart at NextGen. My initial attempt will be to wire a couple of speaker jacks to my speaker (hence the jacks and speaker cable). I trust I have the right jacks and wire for this.

Is the "hook up wire" listed below suitable for inside an amp?

Are the half watt resistors listed (I bought various values) the correct ones for experiement with the mid values on my Gnome? Right now it is running wide open because I disconnected the stock 5.7 k resistor; I am finding the open circuit is a bit too much so I would like to sub in a bunch of values to see what strikes my ear best.

Still looking at multi meters and a few other things. Thanks once again to all who have replied. I am taking this slow and just want to bring in a bit of stuff at a time so I don't become overwhelmed or sink too much into components.

TG


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## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

And while I am at it, is this meter sufficient and as idiot proof as they come?

DMR-6500 | DMM - Compact, Autoranging


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Looks like a nice meter. 600V should cover all your amp needs. Good banana jacks on the front so you can use other probes. Temp probe is a nice bonus. 

1/2 watt resistors are a little larger than the lower rated ones, but will work in most every application. Better to have a bit too big. All the other stuff looks good too. If you're in a pinch, good ol' 16 gauge zip cord (lamp cord) at your local hardware store will get you by for speaker cable, but good to have nicer stuff to work with.

Wish you lived next door so I could come over and borrow 'a cup of resistors' when I'm in the middle of a project.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

IIRC...Carbon Comp resistors might add noise, especially as they heat up and/or degrade. I assume this is totally dependent on where they are placed in the circuit. Just a thought to consider. Others can (and, hopefully, will) comment.


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## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

Would it be better to go with these metal resistors instead of the carbon ones above?

NTE-1/2-22K | MF 22K OHM - 1/2 WATT PK


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

traynor_garnet said:


> Would it be better to go with these metal resistors instead of the carbon ones above?
> 
> NTE-1/2-22K | MF 22K OHM - 1/2 WATT PK


@traynor_garnet ...Here is the long version of a short answer:
Resistor Types - Does It Matter?


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## traynor_garnet (Feb 22, 2006)

greco said:


> @traynor_garnet ...Here is the long version of a short answer:
> Resistor Types - Does It Matter?


Why is life never simple? LOL

I did some reading after your initial post and opinions seem to range all over the place. Purists demand carbon comp, others say they are noisy, others note their sound quality and noise potential depends on where they are employed.

Since I am talking about one cap in the entire amp (controlling the mids) I'm not sure it will really matter as long as it specs out correctly. The truth probably lies somewhere between "vintage fairy dust" and "everything sounds the same" but I'm not going to fret over this level of minutia right now 

I may go with the metal resistors from RP Electronics simply because they are cheaper.

TG


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

The carbon comp mojo is unverified. The possibility of them going noisy and drifting in value is verified.


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## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

traynor_garnet said:


> *Purists demand carbon comp*, others say they are noisy, others note their sound quality and noise potential depends on where they are employed.
> 
> Since I am talking about one cap in the entire amp (controlling the mids) I'm not sure it will really matter as long as it specs out correctly. The truth probably lies somewhere between "vintage fairy dust" and "everything sounds the same" but I'm not going to fret over this level of minutia right now


I know your struggle well!



jb welder said:


> The carbon comp mojo is unverified. The possibility of them going noisy and drifting in value is verified.


^)@#


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## jb welder (Sep 14, 2010)

jbealsmusic said:


> ^)@#


So which of those 2 statements (or both) didn't you like?


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## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

jb welder said:


> So which of those 2 statements (or both) didn't you like?


Neither actually. Personally, I agree with both. "Mojo" and other vintage magic doesn't connect with me at all. But the people want what they want, so we have to carry all sorts of stuff like that.

It's still a "stir the pot" statement because it would upset a lot of purists.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

It is helpful to make yourself a resistor and capacitor substitution box. Get yourself some 12-position rotary switches like these ( Rotary Switch 1 Pole 12 Position ALPHA SR2611F ), and chicken head knobs for them, a suitable box, and an appropriate assortment of 1% half-watt resistors, and a similar assortment of caps.

What you're aiming for is a suitable range of values that will add up to whatever you might possibly need. Let's figure two rotary switches per component type. The switches I linked to have 12 positions, but they have a little stopper washer so that you could set them for only 10 positions if you wanted.

In the case of resistors, the resistances from each switch are set up in series: resistance of switch 1 in series with resistance of switch 2. In the case of caps they are wired up in parallel.

So why is this handy? Because it can temporarily replace a wide range of parts, and you don't have to measure anything. All you have to do is look at where the knob is pointing to and do the mental math. Rotate the knobs, and see what the scope or meter reads. So, let's say the two 12-position resistor switches have values of:
Sw A Sw B
10M 15K
4M7 10k
3M3 4K7
2M2 3K3
1M 2K2
470k 1K
220k 680R
100k 470R
68k 220R
47k 100R
22k 47R
zero zero
(_Jeez, how does one get non-proportional spacing here_?)

Those two sets of values in series can yield many combinations. E.g., you don't have 33k in there but 22k+10k is very close. You don't have 56k but 47K+10K is close. And so on.

This can be helpful in many tasks.


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