# OK then, ID THIS amp!



## Robboman (Oct 14, 2006)

A friend's noname pawn shop amp... what is it? Garnet stencil?


----------



## mandocaster (Jan 11, 2007)

Gotta like those gimungous capacitors hanging out the back ready to discharge into some poor unsuspecting roadie's body.....


----------



## bobb (Jan 4, 2007)

I might be totally off on this one but the name "United" comes to mind.


----------



## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

Yep, Garnet Stencill, about a 7 watt solid state. Should have either the United or Vagabond logo on it (I've seen both). Got a funky tremolo on it but usually not a really bad sounding amp. I've got the United version myself of this amp.


----------



## amphead (Jan 9, 2007)

Aren't those tube sockets I'm seeing? Can't be solid state if that's the case.


----------



## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

Yep sorry, old eyes going, still a garnet stencil amp though. It matches the vagabond I've got. Does this one have the 35w4, 50c5 and 12ax7s in it?

I've also seen the tube versions labeled both RAM and MANN as well.


----------



## bigburcie (Feb 21, 2007)

*Tubes*

The amp has 2 12ax7's and 2 50c5's. It is definitely not the Vagabond as this is a 2x8 speaker setup. The vagabond looks to be a 1x12 and much larger. This amp is only 8 inches deep and not even 24 inches tall.


----------



## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

My Vagabond has 2 8s in it. If the CSA number is LR24510 then it is a garnet for sure.


----------



## TimH (Feb 4, 2006)

wow that amp looks dangerous.


----------



## mrdylan (Apr 22, 2006)

TimH said:


> wow that amp looks dangerous.


It does someone throw the back on it quick!!!


----------



## bigburcie (Feb 21, 2007)

*Vagabond*

It does have the CSA number LR24510. I didn't mean to scare anybody with the back off, I simply needed to switch out tubes and see if I can track down the source of the constant hum (I'm basically positive it's the big fat paper and oil output filter caps). I'll put it back before any innocent women or children are injured (if a guitarist gets shocked, it's just part of the job)

So a Garnet Vagabond it is? Does anyone know where to find the schematic for it?


----------



## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

bigburcie said:


> So a Garnet Vagabond it is? Does anyone know where to find the schematic for it?


It's a Garnet, could be a United or a Vagabond or a whatever else. I don't have a schematic and have never been able to track down one for these stencil ones. The circuits are real simple on them though. What do you need for tubes? I have some NOS 50c5s


----------



## bigburcie (Feb 21, 2007)

The tubes have been replaced and should be fine. The filter caps hanging out the back are the problem. I think they're shot, which is giving me a major hum problem. They're apparently hard to find a matching set too. they're 150mfd 150 volt, so if anyone knows where I can find a suitable replacement (vintage or modern) that would be great.


----------



## Wild Bill (May 3, 2006)

*Try here*



bigburcie said:


> The tubes have been replaced and should be fine. The filter caps hanging out the back are the problem. I think they're shot, which is giving me a major hum problem. They're apparently hard to find a matching set too. they're 150mfd 150 volt, so if anyone knows where I can find a suitable replacement (vintage or modern) that would be great.


Filter caps don't have to be exact. You can usually go a bit bigger in mfd value and ALWAYS go higher in voltage rating! The higher the voltage rating the harder it is to blow the cap up.

Bigger values means physically bigger case sizes. Not a worry when changing out old caps 'cuz new ones are quite a bit smaller anyway.

The mfd value is not at all critical. In the old days these caps typically had a tolerance to the value of -20/+80%!

Nobody seems to make a 150 mfd anymore. The next standard value is 220 mfd, which should be fine.

For a Canadian source I'd recommend http://www.thetubestore.com

They have an Illinois brand 220mfd at 300vdc. They will work just fine and should be no problem to fit. They don't come with long insulated leads so I would mount a small solder tie strip or something. It's not at all critical how you mount them, as long as there's not chance of a short and they won't likely fall out!


----------



## Ripper (Jul 1, 2006)

I get most of my caps from either abra electronics, electro-sonic or newark. They all have sites online. 150mf at 150 shouldn't be that hard to find.


----------

