# Switchcraft VS Neutrik, etc 1/4 inch TS plugs



## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Summer is a bit slow here on the forum. This will be very exciting!!!

This is a poll...just to see what plugs GC forum members prefer...or if they care.

This is intended for instrument cables, etc. and NOT for patch cables for pedals

Feel free to state (not that GC forum members are ever typically shy about commenting) why you prefer one over another.

It includes both/either straight or 90 degree plugs.

Cheers

Dave


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## Guest (Aug 7, 2015)

<deepthought>There is no poll, only thread.</deepthought>

Also: Neutrik. Especially the Silent Plug. Big fan of the Silent Plug they make.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

iaresee said:


> <deepthought>There is no poll, only thread.</deepthought>


Quick(s) Draw !!!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

I screwed up with my vote:sSig_DOH: 

I wanted to vote for Neutrik and ...oh well.

I have always been impressed with their products.

Cheers

Dave


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## Morkolo (Dec 9, 2010)

I like the Neutrik silentplug, not a fan of the locking stuff they did though. The Switchcraft plugs I've used last long but after a while the collar gets loose, not a big deal but not it's an issue I've had with the Neutrik plugs.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Neutrik Silent Plug technology....








Who is the best/cheapest supplier of these plugs and what is the cost?

Cheers

Dave


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## amagras (Apr 22, 2015)

Have anyone had the chance to compare the noise ratio (while connected) between the silent plugs against the normal plugs... Also, the same but between Switchcraft and Neutrik?
The only way I know to do this is by connecting a guitar with noiseless mics to a high gain pedal + compressor and going direct to a computer interface so the noise gets amplified with headphones without being masked by tube or transformer noise from an amp.


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## big frank (Mar 5, 2006)

Um...as Tom Hanks opined in "Big"; "I don't get it". Love the El-Kabong cartoon though.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

amagras said:


> Have anyone had the chance to compare the *noise ratio (while connected) between the silent plugs against the normal plugs... Also, the same but between Switchcraft and Neutrik?*
> The only way I know to do this is by connecting a guitar with noiseless mics to a high gain pedal + compressor and going direct to a computer interface so the noise gets amplified with headphones without being masked by tube or transformer noise from an amp.


This sounds (pun is intended) like a very interesting evaluation/experiment. I hope someone has tried this.

Cheers

Dave

- - - Updated - - -



big frank said:


> Um...as Tom Hanks opined in "Big"; "I don't get it". Love the El-Kabong cartoon though.


What part of the thread are you referring to by "I don't get it"? 

No offence intended.

Cheers

Dave


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## big frank (Mar 5, 2006)

No offence; but I'm in the I don't care camp. Just a hobby player here and stating my position in your poll. Again; no offence. I use nice tweed cloth covered cables and a few rubber vinyl ones too.


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## Guest (Aug 8, 2015)

greco said:


> Who is the best/cheapest supplier of these plugs and what is the cost?


They'll send you two free samples if you ask nicely. Who needs more than that?


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

iaresee said:


> They'll send you two free samples if you ask nicely. Who needs more than that?


The Neutrik website lists the following as their Canadian agent.

Is this who you would suggest contacting for the samples?

http://www.sfm.ca/contact-us/

Cheers

Dave


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Neutrik 

Switchcraft is good quality but so is Neutrik and the Neutrik design is quite a bit better in my opinion.

Infact even my main snake has all Neutrik XLRs.

Very nice quality, design and easy to make any repairs.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Milkman said:


> Neutrik
> 
> Switchcraft is good quality but so is Neutrik and the Neutrik design is quite a bit better in my opinion.


That sums it up for me also. The Neutrik chuck concept is superb, IMHO.


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## Adcandour (Apr 21, 2013)

I like the cheap Hosa pancake connectors.


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## GTmaker (Apr 24, 2006)

I mentioned this on this forum already but its worth another go.

The right angle Neutrik plugs have a very nice bevel in the right spot that allows you to insert it into a telecaster output jack cup.

For this feature alone, I'll vote Neutrik.
Besides that, I think Neutrik plugs are cheaper in price then Switchcraft. At least at Q Components they are.

G.

PS... the idea of testing these plugs for noise factors I think is silly..
On a list of 1 - 10 , I think the plugs would be the # 10 factor behind 9 other more dominant noise generators.


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## Electraglide (Jan 24, 2010)

greco said:


> I screwed up with my vote:sSig_DOH:
> 
> I wanted to vote for Neutrik and ...oh well.
> 
> ...


You started the pole, your vote doesn't count.


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## Electraglide (Jan 24, 2010)

The other week at a yard sale I almost bought 20 1/4" mono plugs from an old.....pre 40s.....switchboard. The guy wanted $5 and I offered $2. We couldn't settle on a price. That being said, as long as there is sound coming out of the amp when I plug the cable into the guitar and then the amp, everything is ok. Plus aside from being names on the forum I've never heard of either.


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## amagras (Apr 22, 2015)

GTmaker said:


> PS... the idea of testing these plugs for noise factors I think is silly..
> On a list of 1 - 10 , I think the plugs would be the # 10 factor behind 9 other more dominant noise generators.


Agreed, plugs are the last factor but in the studio, as it is my case, you have to pay attention to every factor in the chain (included the plugs as silly as it sounds to you) and select the best ones with less noise just in case you end up with 10 or more in your chain. I'd go further and test resistance but I'm not an electronic engineer and don't know if this is technically silly. 
The other comparison, between the Neutrik classic vs the ones with circuit breaker (although they are not going to be used more than once in the chain) seems logical to me since the simple adding of components always implies an increase in the noise although from the diagram I couldn't tell what exactly has been added.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

adcandour said:


> I don't know what they are. If people get gas over them, then I prefer not knowing.


These are about the cheapest GAS prices you are ever going to find.

Cheers

Dave

- - - Updated - - -



Electraglide said:


> You started the pole, your vote doesn't count.


The "system" was kind enough to let me vote in my own thread...so I did. However, slip of the mouse so to speak. LOL


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I actually have no idea, since I haven't explicitly bought 1/4" jacks in at least 5 years, probably more. I bought a couple of 2nd-hand patch bays, really cheap, some time back, and they each came with 96 1/4" jacks ($25 for 96 jacks). They might be Neutrik plastic chassis, but I don't know for sure. Then a buddy gave me a bag of jacks he had pulled. I still have more than I need.

Ask me again in 5 years.


(Actually, it would appear I don't know my males from my females. I'm so used to debates about _*jack*_ quality, I didn't pay attention to the word _*plug*_.

"_What's all this fuss I keep hearing about pug quality? Sure, they have scrunched up little faces, and they snort like great big moving trucks. But every pug is adorable in its own way, and we shoudn't be judging them as being lower or higher quality. Every pug is precious.

What? Oh, plllluuuggg, not pug. Never mind, Jack_!"


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

I'm olde schoole. Switchcraft fan forever. I've got 45 year old SC plugs that have never failed. I tried Neutrik a few times, I found their strain relief a bit diabolical and their earliest version of a switching plug was a failure (it used a mechanical plunger to short ring and tip instead of the reed relay - the plunger always got grungie and stickie and quit working reliably). But I like what I see from Dave's post on page 1. I may have to give one of those a try.

Still like the basic simplicity and durability of the SC. As Godley sang: "The fewer the moving parts, the less there is to go wrong". I never had a tip or a ring shaft come free and rotate on any of the good cast SC plugs that I've used. 




Electraglide said:


> The other week at a yard sale I almost bought 20 1/4" mono plugs from an old.....pre 40s.....switchboard. The guy wanted $5 and I offered $2. We couldn't settle on a price. That being said, as long as there is sound coming out of the amp when I plug the cable into the guitar and then the amp, everything is ok. Plus aside from being names on the forum I've never heard of either.


You may have got lucky but not making a deal. There's a few old telephony plugs out there masking as 1/4" plugs (310's for instance). They kinda working but not 100%, the tip is a more rounded shape on them and they don't always seat well in some jack designs.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

amagras said:


> Agreed, plugs are the last factor but in the studio, as it is my case, you have to pay attention to every factor in the chain (included the plugs as silly as it sounds to you) and select the best ones with less noise just in case you end up with 10 or more in your chain. I'd go further and test resistance but I'm not an electronic engineer and don't know if this is technically silly.
> The other comparison, between the Neutrik classic vs the ones with circuit breaker (although they are not going to be used more than once in the chain) seems logical to me since the simple adding of components always implies an increase in the noise although from the diagram I couldn't tell what exactly has been added.


While important for full BW audio signals, I don't know how important this would be with BW-limited guitar signals. In fact, I sometimes wonder if low SNR numbers (and other low audio specs) aren't part of the whole 'guitar tone mojo' thing?


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## Electraglide (Jan 24, 2010)

There's an old joke about Jack being stuck on a horse.


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## Guest (Aug 8, 2015)

greco said:


> The Neutrik website lists the following as their Canadian agent.
> 
> Is this who you would suggest contacting for the samples?
> 
> ...


Yup! Just tell them you're working on a project, evaluating connectors.


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## Jimmy_D (Jul 4, 2009)

Electraglide said:


> There's an old joke about Jack being stuck on a horse.


But there's little chance anyone under 50 would know that about helping Jack...


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## GWN! (Nov 2, 2014)

Unless you're building cables on a daily basis I don't think most people would care much. Both Neutrik and Switchcraft make good quality connectors. They have slightly different assembly procedures but I doubt they would sound any different.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

iaresee said:


> Yup! Just tell them you're working on a project, evaluating connectors.


Thanks Ian 

I'm going to give them a call and will post the outcome here.

Cheers

Dave


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

mhammer said:


> _What? Oh, plllluuuggg, not pug. Never mind, Jack_!"


So...after your editorial reply, are you "plugging" Neutrik or Switchcraft or something else?

In support of your post, the most reliable "jacks" vote has got to go to Switchcraft...Correct??

Cheers

Dave


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## Guest (Aug 8, 2015)

greco said:


> Thanks Ian
> 
> I'm going to give them a call and will post the outcome here.
> 
> ...


NB: I used my Altera Ottawa shipping address when used to do this. Got all kinds of free parts from companies.


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## Electraglide (Jan 24, 2010)

Jimmy_D said:


> But there's little chance anyone under 50 would know that about helping Jack...


I'm sure Jill does.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

greco said:


> Thanks Ian
> I'm going to give them a call and will post the outcome here.
> Cheers
> Dave


Thanks again to Ian for suggesting that Neutrik might be prepared to send out samples.

I made a call to Neutrik (their Canadian agent) and left a message. 
In addition, my friend (and GC member) amagras wrote an email to the same person I contacted. 

amagras's email was a masterpiece in eloquence and tact. The gentleman amagras was emailing had just returned from vacation and promised to send out two samples. 

Two of these beautiful plugs arrived today by courier.










In addition, I was informed by the good folks at Sherwood Systems (my local music store) that a "Silent Plug" is only required on one end of the cable. I hadn't realized this..DOH!

amagras will be getting a new cable soon...Mogami 2524 ....WITH....do I really have to tell you!!??

My thanks to amagras for making this happen.

Additionally, my thanks to Neutrik's Canadian agent for their kind consideration and generosity.

Cheers

Dave


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## amagras (Apr 22, 2015)

greco said:


> Thanks again to Ian for suggesting that Neutrik might be prepared to send out samples.
> 
> I made a call to Neutrik (their Canadian agent) and left a message.
> In addition, my friend (and GC member) amagras wrote an email to the same person I contacted.
> ...


Wow Dave, I really had to go back and reread the email  

Thanks, you make the best cables in the world! (easy to believe being manufactured by a person who plays a 335)


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## Guest (Aug 15, 2015)

Yea, you just need a silent plug at the guitar end. Sorry, thought that was known!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

amagras said:


> Thanks, you make the best cables in the world!



Thanks for the very embelished compliment (blushing). 
The secret is that I put a lot of love into each of the four solder joints.

Cheers

Dave


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## amagras (Apr 22, 2015)

No need to blush, the Switchcraft+Mogami 2524 you sent deserves the recognition. Im looking forward to try the new one too! 

BTW, soon I'll release something I've been recording with that cable, it has been part of the inspiration.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

iaresee said:


> Sorry, thought that was known!


Probably to virtually everyone else on the planet.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

greco said:


> Thanks for the very embelished compliment (blushing).
> The secret is that *I put a lot of love into each of the four solder joints.*
> 
> Cheers
> ...


"Love. Love will keep us together......"

I always thought that was figurative and not literal.

I should get a couple of those. I'm the Switchcraft fan that needs to be woo'd and seduced. I should email them.


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## driveat11 (Apr 29, 2012)

Hey I know it's an old thread, but I've found the neutriks last 1 year about and they stay stuck.  , wondering where can I get the switchcrafts to start using those instead? 
Thanks


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

driveat11 said:


> Hey I know it's an old thread, but I've found the neutriks last 1 year about and they stay stuck.  , wondering where can I get the switchcrafts to start using those instead?
> Thanks


That suck!


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

driveat11 said:


> ... but I've found the neutriks last 1 year about and they *stay stuck*.


I'm not sure what you mean by "stay stuck". I have never had any issues with Neutrik products and they have lasted for many years.

Switchcraft products are available through Next Gen
Jacks & Plugs - Canada
The owner is an active member of this forum.


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

I have a Neutrik that's sometimes doesn't connect properly when inserted. I emailed Neutrik and they never did get back to me. I like my Planet Waves with the push button switch which seems to be more stable.

D'Addario Planet Waves PW-AG Circuit Breaker 1/4


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## BMW-KTM (Apr 7, 2015)

I've never tried a Neutrik equipped instrument cable. 
My P/A cables have Neutrik ends.
I've made pedal patch cables with Switchcraft ends but I don't think I've ever had an instrument cable with them.
I usually buy RODAM instrument cables.
They're guaranteed for life as long as you keep your receipt. 
Doesn't matter how or why they came to fail, you get a new one, no questions asked.
Step on it with the hard corner of the heel of your cowboy boot, no questions asked.
Thing is, I've never had a single problem with one so I've never had to test it.
They're getting harder to find these days.
Honestly, I don't know what kind of ends they use.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

adcandour said:


> I like the cheap Hosa pancake connectors.


Have you ever tried to solder to them? The worst to work on and poor strain relief. Also I don't like the sharp edges; I've cut myself on them before when just plugging/unplugging. The only good thing about them is the low profile; there ain't nothing smaller. Redco brand are a tad better quality wise, but I just hate the whole design (but, like, whatever the customer wants, right ;D).

Switchcrafts are fine; the basic archetype of TS jacks - I just don't wanna pay that much for such a basic jack made with 50 year old dies (the cheap knock-offs have become so random in quality that I don't use them anymore - I used to but then I had 2 of them break when plugged into gear - the tip came off and the jack got stuck inside; had to take stuff apart to get it all out). I still have a bag of about 20 left that never get touched, and I just toss to people who don't wanna pay a dollar more for a reliable jack. Rean (Neutrik's budget line; used to be all under Neutrik, but they separated things a few years ago) have a version like this which are much better quality wise and much cheaper than the Switchcraft.... but they don't come with a strain relief spring. I have a couple of those (reclaimed from a snake that I converted to XLR for stage mic use) which I use for thicker cable (like high power speaker wire) that doesn't fit easily into other jacks with better strain relief.

The cheaper Neutriks are too fat/large as regards the barrel, and the slimmer ones much too expensive.

My preference is Amphenol AC series. I use the ACPM-GB (ACPM-RB for R-angle and ACPS-GB for TRS). They are slim, look sharp and VERY easy to work with (especially as regards the tab for the ground/shield wire). Also they are a very good value, robust and cheap.
























I bulk order them in from RedCo.com, which I highly recommend. It's US based but they have good stuff for all your cable-rolling needs (as well as other useful musical items - like mic stands; particularly love the short style with telescopic boom for drums and guitar cabs; nice all metal clamps vs plastic). Just about the best prices on wire, though some other (online) places sometimes got them beat on jacks by a couple cents; the service is so much better (they also do custom cables solderred up for you). Despite the shipping and import tax; still cheaper than buying (not crappy off-brand jacks) locally and you can get exactly what you want vs local limited stock (the selection really sucks; just the cheap/crap stuff and then overpriced Neutriks with no reasonable options in between).

Final note, for guitar (or anything that is plugged in/out very frequently), don't bother paying more for gold contacts. It just rubs off with the plugging and it doesn't really make a significant audible difference anyway. The main benefit to gold is that it doesn't oxidize (which is good, but if the female jack isn't also gold, kinda moot).


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## J-75 (Jul 29, 2010)

Guitar101 said:


> I have a Neutrik that's sometimes doesn't connect properly when inserted. I emailed Neutrik and they never did get back to me. I like my Planet Waves with the push button switch which seems to be more stable.
> 
> D'Addario Planet Waves PW-AG Circuit Breaker 1/4


I have one of these - nice concept, except I always have trouble locating the switch by feel. The design is too "streamlined" to the touch - just sayin'.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Granny Gremlin said:


> Have you ever tried to solder to them? The worst to work on and poor strain relief. Also I don't like the sharp edges; I've cut myself on them before when just plugging/unplugging. The only good thing about them is the low profile; there ain't nothing smaller. Redco brand are a tad better quality wise, but I just hate the whole design (but, like, whatever the customer wants, right ;D).
> 
> Switchcrafts are fine; the basic archetype of TS jacks - I just don't wanna pay that much for such a basic jack made with 50 year old dies (the cheap knock-offs have become so random in quality that I don't use them anymore - I used to but then I had 2 of them break when plugged into gear - the tip came off and the jack got stuck inside; had to take stuff apart to get it all out). I still have a bag of about 20 left that never get touched, and I just toss to people who don't wanna pay a dollar more for a reliable jack. Rean (Neutrik's budget line; used to be all under Neutrik, but they separated things a few years ago) have a version like this which are much better quality wise and much cheaper than the Switchcraft.... but they don't come with a strain relief spring. I have a couple of those (reclaimed from a snake that I converted to XLR for stage mic use) which I use for thicker cable (like high power speaker wire) that doesn't fit easily into other jacks with better strain relief.
> 
> ...


Good information. Thanks for that.

I've used a lot of Amphenol (there 50 and M44 connectors) in telecom work. There quality is outstanding and I think I will try some of their 1/4" stuff. Especially if it's cheaper than my standard bearer, Switchcraft. I got cables older than some of the participants on this board that I soldered with good SC plugs. They take a lickin' and keep on rockin'. I don't have no need for no fancy shmancy switching plugs - just one more thing to go wrong, IMO. Mute-unplug-plug-unmute. Easy.


As for low projile right angle plugs, my fave is the Switchcraft 228 (available through a couple of our fine suppliers represented on this board).


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Yeah, that's what we're calling 'pancake' jacks.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

Granny Gremlin said:


> Yeah, that's what we're calling 'pancake' jacks.


Funny. 

I call them "cheap shitty 1/4 connectors"


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

Except they ain't so cheap no mo.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

And they ain't shitty - unless you just don't like plugs that don't break and just keep working. No fancy switches or anything, just plugs you can step on with army boots for 40 years and they keep working.

Of course, some people don't want to pay the money, think the Chinese non-cast ones are a good replacement - and then complain about the good ones when their cheap ones break. LOL


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

With big enough cables they may be good, but otherwise they lack strain relief. It's not the connector that fails, it's the soldering job when the strain isn't relieved.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

I solder the braid very well to the large ground portion of the plug. That alone probably give me enough strain relief. And I've used electric tape the increase the diameter of the cable when necessary, although the Mogami cable I usually use doesn't need it.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

High/Deaf said:


> I *solder the braid very well to the large ground portion* of the plug. That alone probably give me enough strain relief. And I've used *electric tape* the increase the diameter of the cable when necessary


I do the same. I use shrink tube to increase the cable diameter.


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## Jamdog (Mar 9, 2016)

greco said:


> I do the same. I use shrink tube to increase the cable diameter.


2-3 layers of shrink wrap is a good idea.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

greco said:


> I do the same. I use shrink tube to increase the cable diameter.


As long as you remember to put the heat shrink on first. Am I the only one who finishes soldering only to see the piece of tubing (or worse, the screw on outer piece for a straight plug) lying on the table? LOL


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

See, all those things are workarounds; it's a shitty jack because you have to compensate for it's shortcomings. My Amphenols also never have failed me, but are cheaper, have good strain relief for modern (thinner diameter) cable, and MUCH easier to work with. Time is money and not using pancakes saves me time.

In my opinion, the only reason to use them is when the super low profile is a necessity (and this can be a valid concern).... maybe to be period -correct on a vintage piece of gear. Otherwise there are better and cheaper options.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

High/Deaf said:


> Am I the only one.....


Nope!...LOL


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Granny Gremlin said:


> See, all those things are workarounds; it's a shitty jack because you have to compensate for it's shortcomings.


I don't see it as the plug having short-comings, more the user choosing the wrong cable or not being able to solder correctly. The plugs work excellent when those two factors aren't duffed by user error.


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## greco (Jul 15, 2007)

Granny Gremlin said:


> My Amphenols also never have failed me, but are cheaper, have good strain relief for modern (thinner diameter) cable, and MUCH easier to work with. Time is money and not using pancakes saves me time.


How much are you paying for basic straight, TS Amphenol plugs? I can get Neutriks for about $4.00 ea. and I honestly feel (just my opinion) that the Neutriks, after trying Amphenol, are a better quality plug in many ways.

The pancakes are great for pedal boards.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

greco said:


> How much are you paying for basic straight, TS Amphenol plugs? I can get Neutriks for about $4.00 ea. and I honestly feel (just my opinion) that the Neutriks, after trying Amphenol, are a better quality plug in many ways.
> 
> The pancakes are great for pedal boards.


I get ACPM-GB for US$1 .39-1.50 + postage etc. Depending on whether I hit the qty discount or not (I try to). R angled are only 20-25c more. The Amphenols with (Neutrik like) chuck strain relief are double that but still a bit cheaper than actual Neutriks (and smaller in diameter unless you go for the more expensive Neutriks).

Agreed, pedal boards (and speaker connectors on many, usually vintage or vintage style combo amps) are the place where pancake jacks are most useful and applicable. I build most of my own pedals and so I put all the I/O on the top vs the sides so I can squish pedals even closer together than one can with side mount pancakes (side mounted jacks are fricken stupid); that's how much I want to avoid them. Some vintage amps don't leave much room between chassis rear panel and cabinet rear edge for anything bigger than a pancake. In both cases, there is not much plugging/unplugging so strain relief isn't as much of a concern. But footswittch ends or guitar to amp cables, it's a hell no.


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## High/Deaf (Aug 19, 2009)

Wow, those are good prices. If I ever break any of my 40 year old 228's, I may try some of those.


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## jbealsmusic (Feb 12, 2014)

Jumping in a little late here, but just wanted to add this. For the record, this is all my personal opinion.

*SWITCHCRAFT vs NEUTRIK*
I prefer Switchcraft jacks but Neutrik plugs. For the record, Next Gen currently sells Switchcraft, not Neutrik. The Neutriks plugs are just a bit more secure with their double clamp (comparing a #280 to the Neutrik equivalent). Both are great quality and are worth the price if you find a good supplier, but I'd give Neutrik the slight edge in the plug department. I wouldn't go for the "fancy" plugs though. Silent magnetic switching plugs, etc. Next Gen has looked into carrying those and the suppliers told us not to bother because of the failure rates. When you're going to order a few boxes of plugs and the person selling them to you tells you not to buy them, that is a pretty big red flag to me.

*WHAT'S WITH THE HIGH PRICE?*
Let's be honest here... As with many well known brands, I have no doubt that a small portion of the price tag is in the name itself. That may not matter to most DIYers. However, for people building gear to sell to customers, many customers request specific brand name parts due to the association of that brand's name with a quality part. The difference here though, is that you're paying for a good quality part that happens to have a well known brand name attached. Not the same as paying a higher price for a well known brand name with a long history of desirability, despite highly questionable quality control standards.

*CHEAP vs EXPENSIVE*
As for the difference between cheap/budget stuff and the real deal, in most cases you really do get what you pay for. If you look at any of the common jack and plug types (#11, #280, #228, etc), I'm sure on the surface (looking at pictures) there appears to be no difference between a cheap import and a Switchcraft or Neutrik version which are usually double the price (or more). However, if you take them apart and inspect them closely, the difference can be staggering. The thickness/quality/consistency of the metal used, the durability and tight fit of the threads, the strength of the solder terminals (resistance to breaking/cracking under cold conditions), etc. Even little things like the sharpness of the edges of the metal housing. I didn't work as a tech for long, but I replaced or repaired TONS of cheap jacks and plugs for customers. This kind of stuff matters, especially if you gig and/or tour.

*OTHER JACKS & PLUGS*
I mention Switchcraft and Neutrik (and common plug/jack types), only because they are the biggest players in the industry. There are numerous other companies and tons of types of plugs/jacks. There are probably hundreds of variations on the standard straight 1/4" plug alone. All metal, all plastic (except the contacts/solder terminals), some half and half, some with no clamp, single clamp, double clamp, etc. The list is endless. Some of them are great and are priced very competitively, but you'll have to experiment to find what works for you.

*SIZE DOES MATTER*
The other thing to consider is what type of cable works best with what plug, but that is a HUGE rabbit hole. Say someone buys one type of cable and 3 different plugs to experiment with. All three plugs might be great quality, but only one might have an ideal fit with the cable that person has. As a result, they erroneously conclude that the other 2 plugs suck in comparison. However, if they had a different cable, they may have gotten a different result. Something to consider.

As a result, you may get a great cable and great plugs that doesn't necessarily play well together. That's when using tips and tricks like the tape and heat shrink stuff previously mentioned comes into play. It is not compensation for bad quality parts, it is a workaround for parts that don't necessarily play well together. Anyone who has built or modded a lot of gear would know that kind of stuff is ideally avoided, but inevitable once in a while.


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

I've never had issues with either Switchcraft or Neutrik, though the latter might outperform the former in the long run. My experience is that I have cable failure long before plug failure and even that is uncommon...I don't jump around as I play anymore. For many years I've used Switchcraft/Canare or VTG Audio cables from parts bought from Q Components in Waterloo.

However, just looking around the music space here and I see as many of those Planet Waves cables as my home assembled ones, but that's primarily because I got a bunch on trade and they've held up well.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

jbealsmusic said:


> Jumping in a little late here, but just wanted to add this. For the record, this is all my personal opinion.
> 
> *SWITCHCRAFT vs NEUTRIK*
> I prefer Switchcraft jacks but Neutrik plugs. For the record, Next Gen currently sells Switchcraft, not Neutrik. The Neutriks plugs are just a bit more secure with their double clamp (comparing a #280 to the Neutrik equivalent). Both are great quality and are worth the price if you find a good supplier, but I'd give Neutrik the slight edge in the plug department. I wouldn't go for the "fancy" plugs though. Silent magnetic switching plugs, etc. Next Gen has looked into carrying those and the suppliers told us not to bother because of the failure rates. When you're going to order a few boxes of plugs and the person selling them to you tells you not to buy them, that is a pretty big red flag to me.
> ...


Just to be clear (I generally agree), Amphenol is a known quality brand name.... just that hey don't specialise as heavily in consumer audio connectors like Neutrik does, and therefore are not nearly as known to customers (brand recognition), their stuff is used for medical devices so it ain't poor quality (also other industries, see a few pages back someone mentioned familiarity with the brand and its rep for quality from non-audio work). But people in the biz - in Pro Audio (vs just guitar/amp techs) are well aware of the brand. 

There is also something to be said for makers' responsibility to educate the customer base - this is mutually beneficial to all of us. It is part of the value that we can provide to customers. I'm thankful for when I have been on the receiving end myself; there are a number of brands and options as regards gear generally I would not be aware of otherwise.

The tape trick would not be necessary on pancakes if they actually had proper strain relief vs a one-size that does not fit all clamp; an afterthought which is dual purposed as the attachment for the top part of the chassis. There's not working with all cable (no jack does, but most work well enough with most of the relevant spectrum of cable aside from one extreme or the other) vs only working with a very specific size of cable (goldilocks zone; not too big or too small). Any other jack I have used will work with console wire up to full size mic cable (with the exception of the oversized wire connectors that I use for everything else - like heavy speaker wire that doesn't fit in standard jacks... nor pancakes BTW). I did cover that they do have their relevant uses and are therefore not obsolete; my point was that they are far from the be all and end all of 1/4" jacks. There is no other jack that I have had to use the tape/shrink trick with (even with console wire.... though I have had to shave down the clamp in Neutrik NTP3RCs (r angle headphone jack - 1/8" aka 3.5mm TRS) when using proper quality cable (vs that supermini cheap stuff with the shielding that you have too melt off that most low to mid-level headphones use stock).


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## BMW-KTM (Apr 7, 2015)

I'm still trying to wrap my head around placing I/O jacks on top of a pedal.
I can envision what it would look like easily enough.
That's not the problem.
I just can't imagine there being any possible benefit whatsoever except tighter pedal placement ...
which would come at the cost of having the jacks poking straight up out of the pedals.


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## Granny Gremlin (Jun 3, 2016)

By the top I mean the part facing the audience vs your foot; not where the knobs are ('the front'):










I'm in good company - it is EQD's policy as well.


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## aC2rs (Jul 9, 2007)

greco said:


> The Neutrik chuck concept is superb, IMHO.


I couldn't agree more, the IMO Neutrik system is indeed superb!
I originally voted for Switchcraft, but recently purchased a set of Neutrik jacks from L&M to repair a high quality cord.
The quality of the materials is excellent, and the system works perfectly, I wouldn't hesitate going with these jacks again in the future.


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