# Cary's GFS Kit-o-caster build, Newbie will need help.



## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Hey folks, I've been debating doing a kit build for some time. Never wanted to spend an arm and a leg on something I might completely mess up. So it always sort of sat in the back of my mind. 
Due to my planet waves pedal tuner being noisy as hell when engaged, I needed a new pedal tuner and found my way to guitarfetish.com, they have strat and tele kits for $89, and I was ordering a bunch of shit anyways, so I caved and bought a strat kit. I opted for the maple fretboard and also bought one of their $50 pearl alnico V loaded pre-wired pickguards after listening to a nice demo on youtube.

I've read a bunch of reviews of these kits saying that sometimes the neck pocket is a poor fit or that the bridge holes are drilled in the wrong spots, so I am prepared to fix that sort of stuff if need be. I've just never built anything so i'm a little trepadacious, but excited. The tools I own are limited to a soldering iron, a drill, and screwdrivers, hammers, sockets and the like, so i'm expecting I'll need to buy at least something.

If I find the hardware is sub-par, I'll replace it as I see fit. (something tells me the tuners will be awful, but i could be wrong.)

I'm thinking (depending on the grain of the pawlania body) I'll probably use Tru oil to finish the neck and body, as i've heard that's the best bet for a novice with no equipment. But I wanted to get some advice from those with experience. Pros/cons of using a gunstock finish?

Anyways the order should probably be here by monday and i'm going to jump right on building that sucker. I'll post plenty of pics and questions i'm sure. Any advice you folks can give me in the meantime would be much appreciated.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

*Got my package today after a looooong wait at the post office.*

The kit came today (along with the loaded pickguard, tuner and strings I ordered.

I cant seem to upload photos here, but heres a link to the album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/CaryBi...authkey=Gv1sRgCLL_xcH26eb4owE&feat=directlink

I haven't had a chance to mess around with it at all, but so far from a quick inspection I'm impressed with the lightness of the wood, and a little concerned about how soft it is, there are numerous dents on the body I'm trying to draw out by putting some water on them. The neck seems straight and appears to have a light finish or filler. The maple is somewhat figured, with some birdseye type grain to it. The headstock is pre shaped, a little disappointing as I was hoping for to go with a vintage fender style shape. but alas, so it goes.

The neck pocket is decent, if a little bit loose. But i'm hoping putting a finish on the body will fill the gaps a bit. Holes are pretty much all pre drilled, however the pickguard I bought does not line up with the holes, we'll see how it fits with the bridge.
I was impressed to see a wbw 3 ply pickguard shipped with the guitar, I was expecting the cheapest of the cheap. 

I've been a bunch of places looking for tru oil, but haven't found it yet. Gonna try cabellas tomorrow, and If not I might go a different way with the finish. I'm thinking amber dye with some sort of clear on top. but i'm clueless. if anyone has any suggestions or advice, i'm open to it.

Anyhow I'm gonna go spend some time screwing around with this thing. I'll post some more pics and I'm sure questions tomorrow.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

DOH!

Problem #1: The neck plate and screws are missing, I emailed GFS and will report back as soon as I get a response.


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

You should be able to pick those up at most music stores,
but yes, they should have shipped with the kit.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

I just received an email back from customer support at GFS, they're sending out the neckplate and screws asap. as much of a piss off as it is to wait, this will give me some time to work on the finish anyhow.


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

You can pretty much tell how the neck pocket fit's going to be just by slipping the neck in there, even without screws & plate. Get it as level as you can in the pocket, how much lateral movement is there? Keep in mind that adding finish is going to add thickness, and it will be somewhat tighter then. Also, if it's loose a) it might mean nothing, there are good sounding guitars with loose neck pockets and b) if it bothers you, it's pretty simple to make a shim that tightens it up.


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

From the picts....the neck and body looks quite weird to me...wood that dent so easily is weird. kinda like pine or another softwood.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Keto: The neck pocket seems tight enough. I'm not too worried about it. But if it does become an issue i will shim it. 

al3d: The neck is regular old maple on maple. The body is made from a super light wood called Paulownia, it is quite soft and I'm considering going with a tougher finish to compensate for this, but I'm still not sure. I like the grain, it's pretty similar to ash, so i'm thinking a transparent finish.

Another small issue encountered. The aftermarket pickguard I bought doesn't sit flush to the neck, i'm gonna have to take out the dremel and trim it down a bit.

Anyhow, my car won't start and i'm waiting on CAA, so i better go sit by the phone.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Quick update. I went to cabella's today and found tru-oil. I bought their gunstock finishing kit, with the aforementioned tru-oil, a walnut stain, polish, and some sandpaper and steel wool. all for $20. Not too shabby. I'm going to return this unused tung oil to cantire and go with this stuff. 

I'm considering using the included walnut stain on the body, I'm just wondering if I should use wood filler first, what to use for applying it, and whether this stuff will go on fairly even, or if I should scrap it entirely and use something else.


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## NGroeneveld (Jan 23, 2011)

Have fun with it 

Some facts from Wikipedia - note the info in reference to guitar building about half way down.


It is popular in its native China for reforestation, roadside planting and as an ornamental tree. Books say it grows well in a wide variety of soil types, notably poor ones, and needs a lot of light and usually does not like high water tables. Paulownia timber is a pale, whitish coloured wood with a straight grain, but it can also be silver grey, light brown or reddish. Its characteristics of rot resistance and a very high ignition point ensures the timber's popularity in the world market. Paulownia grown on plantations generally has widely spaced growth rings and is therefore much less valuable. The wood is also important in China, Korea, and Japan for making the soundboards of stringed musical instruments such as the guqin, pipa, koto, and kayagum.

Paulownia is known in Japanese as _kiri_ (桐), specifically referring to _P. tomentosa_; it is also known as the "princess tree". It was once customary to plant a Paulownia tree when a baby girl was born, and then to make it into a dresser as a wedding present when she married. Paulownia is the _mon_ of the office of prime minister and also serves as the emblem of the cabinet and the government (vis-à-vis the chrysanthemum being the Imperial Seal of Japan). It is one of the suits in hanafuda, associated with the month of December. _Japan: An Illustrated Encyclopedia_ (page 1189; Tokyo: Kodansha, 1993. ISBN 4-06-931098-3) states:
Paulownia wood is very light, fine-grained, soft, and warp-resistant and is used for chests, boxes, and clogs (_geta_). It's low silica content reduces dulling of blades, making it a preferred wood for boxes to hold fine Japanese edge tools. The wood is burned to make charcoal for sketching and powder for fireworks, the bark is made into a dye, and the leaves are used in vermicide preparations. The silvery-grey wood is sliced into veneers for special visiting cards.[SUP][3][/SUP]​These fine grained, soft and warp-resistant properties also make Paulownia wood exceptionally suited for making wooden surfboards. Tom Wegener of Noosa, Australia, his brother Jon of Hermosa Beach, California, and more recently "Empress Surfboards" are amongst the shapers who pioneered its use.[SUP][_citation needed_][/SUP] Unlike those made from balsa wood, the resulting surfboards do not need to be glassed.
​More recently, it is used as body material for low-cost electric guitars and as the core for lightweight touring skis. It is often used in guitars as the core body, then laminated under a more durable wood, such as the Dean ML XM that is made of Paulownia as the body but is topped with mahogany.
Paulownia is extremely fast growing; up to 20 feet in one year when young. Some species of plantation Paulownia can be harvested for saw timber in as little as five years. Once the trees are harvested, they regenerate from their existing root systems, earning them the name of the "Phoenix tree." Paulownia has the ability to reclaim ecologically stressed and degenerate patches of land relatively quickly. Its root systems run deep and penetrate compacted and soils which contaminated by industrial waste. Paulownia is a phytoremediator, increasing the organic content of degraded soils, processing and filtering contaminants through the uptake of its vascular system, and emitting oxygen into the atmosphere.
Recently, Paulownia has received a great deal of interest for its environmental properties and has been put forward as a potential solution to the global deforestation problem which lies at the heart of the climate change debate. It is being used as a reforestation tree in several countries, including Australia, Germany, China, the USA and Panama. Reforestation projects using the species are being run by organizations such as EcoTech Timber, Inc, ECO2 Forests Inc, Robinia Invest, Eco Sustainable Systems, Silva Tree and Kiri Park Projects spurred by Paulownia's fast growth and additional environmental benefits.

Paulownia has also proved to increase food production when used for intercropping and to prevent soil erosion. A large reforestation project in China increased food production in the Yellow River and Yangtse flood plains and halted erosion on approximately 3.15 million ha (12,200 sq mi) of land.

As a forestry crop Paulownia are exacting in their requirements, performing well only in very well draining soil, with summer rainfall or availability of irrigation water. A great deal of trialling and development by the pioneers of a Paulownia industry in Australia, Joe Virtanen of Australian Paulownia Trees and Plantations and James Lawrence of Toad Gully Growers, has shown there is a lot that can be done toward ensuring a successful plantation; primarily through selection of top genetics and improving the growing conditions, such as cultivation to increase drainage and adding fertiliser and irrigation.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

I put on the first (possibly only) coat of stain today.

https://picasaweb.google.com/CaryBilcowski/October142011

still not sure how to post pics direct to the site here.


there are some definite splotches that won't take stain at all, it's not going to be the prettiest job in the world. but alas, not bad considering I'm completely clueless.


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

U did'nt seen to have resanded the body and grain fill it either before staining!...


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

al3d said:


> U did'nt seen to have resanded the body and grain fill it either before staining!...


I did sand the body, although looking now, I didn't do a stellar job of it. I didn't use a grain filler on it however. I'm going to see how this stain dries and possibly sand and stain again.

As I've previously stated, I have no idea what I'm doing, and am open to direction.


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## Guitar101 (Jan 19, 2011)

Here's some info on staining difficult types of wood.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Staining_and_Blending_Difficult_Woods.html


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

After doing some more sanding and another round of the diluted stain, I've begun to apply the tru-oil.

This is after about 4 coats, i did a wet sand after the first round in an attempt to fill the grain a little bit, it helped, but i definitely could have gone a little deeper, I was just afraid I would cock up the stain.
















going to do some steel wool buffing once the round that is on is dry, then probably apply 2 or 3 more coats before I set her up to cure for a week or so.








The neck is so smooth I don't really want to do anything to it, probably just a wipe down with some lemon oil.
















There's actually some pretty nice bird's eye type figure on the fingerboard.








As for the headstock, I've been toying with some ideas, I have a little doodle I do of my own face I was thinking about wood burning it on, but I'm not the steadiest hand, and you only get one chance, so i'm going to think about that. 
I also have a custom made super reverb clone from Sligo amps that I want to put the same logo on. 










Dang, I just realized there are no screws for the trem claw or the string trees in this kit. Kind of a piss off. I guess I can't really complain for an $89 kit, but still, I was hoping it would be complete. I guess I'm hitting the hardware store tomorrow.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

wow, I am clueless as to how to post photos here.


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## al3d (Oct 3, 2007)

i hope you're letting your true-oil cure before sanding..otherwise you'll have nasty suprises. Oh..and True-oil is not a grain filler..it's to tick. As for your neck...if you don't put something on it..it will be greyish/dark after a few WEEK of playing. AND with no protection, it's gonna bend and warp quite fast as well. PS..Lemon oil is to clean Rosewood...not really for maple. it CAN be used...but really don't recommend it


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## keto (May 23, 2006)

Above where you type in the reply box, there's an icon near the far right...if you mouse over, it will say 'Image', it's right of the link one and left of the filmstrip. CLICK. Box comes up, at the top hit the tab for 'From URL'. Uncheck the little check box. Put URL of picture in the supplied space. Hit enter. Repeat as often as necessary, there's no limit (I think) to number of pics in a post.

That said, I dunno if there's something wierd about picasaweb, I'm trying to link one of your pics (above), no workie. Never mind, I had to look at the picture in the album, right click over it, and from the list hit 'copy image location'. Then past that in the URL box.

Wrong again, when I do the album view I just get the small pic above, let's try same thing on the big one:


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Thanks for the advice folks. 

I suppose I'll put a coat or 2 of the tru-oil on the neck, I'd hate to warp this thing. 

lets test this photo thing


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Well I haven't touched the guitar in about 4 days, I'm waiting for the tru-oil to cure and my neckplate and screws to arrive. It's almost a blessing that I have to wait on parts, otherwise my impatience would get the best of me and I'd end up polishing and assembling before the finish is totally set.

I did a half assed mock-up just to get an idea of what it's gonna look like when she's done.










I actually am quite pleased with the butterscotch colour that ended up coming out in this thing. 

For shits and giggles I hung the body by a string and gave a solid knock on the wood with my fist, I must say, I got a pretty nice percussive woodblock tone out of it. Hopefully the neck goes on straight and these alnico V pickups do a decent strat sound.

here's a video of someones demo of these pickups.

[video=youtube;65d9xFQDloU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65d9xFQDloU[/video]
I'll be pretty pleased if I can get these nice cleans out of my box when it's all said and done.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Well I'm ready to call it done.

I gave the neck a super light coat of tru-oil.

After a bunch of sanding I got the neck attached flush in the pocket and found it to be completely straight, so I strung it to tension and gave the truss rod a half turn of relief. It's got enough of a bow to not buzz now.

Put a new graphite nut on as the original was installed crooked and I cracked it trying to remove it. DOH! 

Installed the tuning machines and string trees.

Drilled new holes for the pickguard.

After some experimentation I removed the green (.22?) cap from the second tone control. Seems to be a little more open of a sound on the bridge.

Installed strap buttons. I'm impressed with the size, gibson could take a hint from these guys.

Installed the trem claw, bridge and attached the springs.

Strung it up.

Did the intonation and action on the bridge saddles.

Got really disappointed at the tone.

Removed the aforementioned cap, took off the cheap ass included strings and strung up with xavier 10-46s. 

Plugged back in, and I've gotta say, I'm really impressed. I'm into this thing for less than $200. it sounds great. Classic strat tones.

So far I've only plugged this guitar into a Line 6 guitar port (late night) and my Fender Supersonic this morning, it sounds good through the computer and great through the fender (which is about right) I can't wait to play it through my super reverb.

I was hoping when I started this project that I would be able to build a playable guitar. Not only do I have that, I'm gonna try gigging with it. 









I took this one to try and show the gap between the pickguard and neck, Its where I had to shave it down with the new dremel and I'm pretty proud of myself for not cocking it up.









anyone have any advice for getting all the steel wool fragments of my pups? 









this one shows the string trees, I did this after an evening of libations and put them really close to the nut compared to my other guitars, but I'm okay with how it turned out.










heres those jumbo strap buttons









heres a shot showing the tuners and the grain of the wood on the back of the headstock.



























I'm gonna try to get some outdoor shots and possibly some sound clips in the next day or two.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Did a short demo. guitar into Guitarport, '64 blackface 'lux amp model, pos 2 for rhythm, 4 for lead.

[video=youtube;uPvr22ZDrRg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPvr22ZDrRg[/video]


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Well i've had the chance to play a couple gigs with this guitar and I've come to a couple conclusions.

Sounds awesome through my super reverb, very Robert Cray. 

Still needs some setup work, I get fret buzz on a the low 3 strings. I might need to shim up the nut, it seems a little low

Output is super low, means I can crank my amp.

tone and volume pots are shit. lots of noise and complete drop out in high end as soon as you dial it back. Sounds fine dimed though.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

Just a final update on this guitar. It is now setup exactly how i like it, ended up with a bone nut, cts pots and Custom Shop '59 pickups, and it sounds like a dream. The tuners are actually quite good and the bridge is adequate. 

The finish isn't perfect, but i learned a lot. And from a distance (or on a dimly lit stage) it looks pretty damn good.

Overall i'm more than happy with the final result and have a guitar that sounds amazing, is nice and light, holds tune well and didn't cost me an arm and a leg. Oh yeah, and her name is Butterscotch.


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## bluzfish (Mar 12, 2011)

I LOVE the finish. And from what I heard in the vid, it sounds just the way I like a strat to sound. Good work and good luck with the new build.


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## Cary (May 11, 2011)

thanks so much for the kind words. I'm really pleased with how it turned out. It does have the classic spanky strat tone to it. I'll try to take some video next gig to show off how she sounds and looks with a cranked amp and stage lighting.


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