# Notched Straight Edge/Leveling Beam



## Wooly (Feb 17, 2017)

Does anyone know where one could purchase a notched straight edge and leveling beam that's not going to break the bank? I know there is that huge company out of the USA and they sell quality tools but for a DIY kind of guy, it's more than I would like to spend. I was told by my guitar tech to look for Hosco brand but a Google search doesn't show that they make a straight edge. Thanks


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

I don't see a notched straight edge but perhaps other items that could do a similar job?



https://www.solomusicgear.com/product-category/luthier-tools/gauges/


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## Swervin55 (Oct 30, 2009)

I bought a notched straight edge from Stew Mac years ago and I can't recall ever using it. When it comes to fret leveling, it's not the fret board that is the concern. Therefore, a good straight edge is all that's needed. Of course, I'm assuming this is why you want a notched straight edge and I could be entirely missing the point.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

I think the notched beam is used to ensure the neck is adjusted flat before working on the frets. I could be wrong...


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## Milkman (Feb 2, 2006)

Swervin55 said:


> I bought a notched straight edge from Stew Mac years ago and I can't recall ever using it. When it comes to fret leveling, it's not the fret board that is the concern. Therefore, a good straight edge is all that's needed. Of course, I'm assuming this is why you want a notched straight edge and I could be entirely missing the point.


Maybe sell it to the OP?


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I got mine from a guy on Ebay lives in Portugal. Nice thick aluminum and way cheaper than anyone else. Let me see if I can find him


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

Fratermusic is the username. You can find cheaper on eBay if you look hard enough but most will come from China.


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## Chito (Feb 17, 2006)

I bought mine from Amazon. It works but the edges are very sharp. LOL You just have to be careful not to cut yourself. But like I said it works. I think I paid less that $30 for it.


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## nnieman (Jun 19, 2013)

are you looking for these?



https://www.solomusicgear.com/product/solo-pro-guitar-notched-straight-edge/



I have one -The edges are a little rough/ sharp so you have to be careful with it. But it is straight and that is the important thing.

Nathan


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## Wooly (Feb 17, 2017)

player99 said:


> I think the notched beam is used to ensure the neck is adjusted flat before working on the frets. I could be wrong...


Yes. That what I was going to use it for


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## Wooly (Feb 17, 2017)

Thanks for the tips.
I built 3 Stratocaster style guitars that are going to need some fret work done. I bought a straight edge out of China but I don't trust it. To me, it's not as straight as it should be from what I can tell. Those Solo ones looks reasonable.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

nnieman said:


> are you looking for these?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You could spend a little energy and file or sand all the edges and corners that aren't the actual straight edge and remove the burrs and sharp edges.


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## Mooh (Mar 7, 2007)

Probably as precise as I need, mine was made from a piece of 1/4” aluminum that a local machinist made. I notched it on the grinder and softened the edges slightly. A guy has to scavenge. Every time I see something in the StewMac catalogue that looks crazy expensive I want to make my own.


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## WannabeGood (Oct 24, 2007)

Made my own from a draftsman T square. Removed the T, marked the fret location along the edge using an existing guitar as a template, and cut notches on my table saw. Plastic edges but if straight enough for drafting then all should be good right? T square should be fairly inexpensive if they are even still available in stores.

Regards,

Edit:
Just checked Staples online for pricing....gulp.
A person might be better off just getting the real thing.


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## sulphur (Jun 2, 2011)

Neck Check guitar tools, I heard of them through Daves World of Fun Stuff...



Neck Check Guitar Repair Tools, Luthier Tools Supplies


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## Wooly (Feb 17, 2017)

Sulphur. That does look appealing. Thanks


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> I think the notched beam is used to ensure the neck is adjusted flat before working on the frets. I could be wrong...


I don't really get the notched straight edge. It's the fret tops that are important. Regular good quality straight edge is all you would need IMO. I have seen some reputable guys use it but frankly I do not understand why? If someone is adamant. Feel free to enlighten me. I'm all for buying guitar tools but I am concentrating on the really useful ones.

Cheers Peter


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## Tone Chaser (Mar 2, 2014)

I bought the notched beam, fret rocker, and string height gauge on Amazon for about $20 shipped. My wife was buying something and needed a few dollars more on the Amazon order for free shipping.

I posted about the usefulness of inexpensive tools for my situation. The accuracy is there on the items that I bought. They help to make quick work and verification of work. The slightly sharp edges in a few places were refined by me. It would have been nice to not have that situation, but the tools are priceless when you have a large collection of instruments, that would keep a luthier busy all year, me constantly spending on small services, that can be easily accomplished in minutes at home. Travel time and costs to a shop, time without the instrument, is now eliminated. I also learned something about maintenance and my gear.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Silvertone said:


> I don't really get the notched straight edge. It's the fret tops that are important. Regular good quality straight edge is all you would need IMO. I have seen some reputable guys use it but frankly I do not understand why? If someone is adamant. Feel free to enlighten me. I'm all for buying guitar tools but I am concentrating on the really useful ones.
> 
> Cheers Peter


You first want to adjust the neck flat with the truss rod before leveling the frets. If your only using the frets to adjust the neck then the neck may not be flat.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> You first want to adjust the neck flat with the truss rod before leveling the frets. If your only using the frets to adjust the neck then the neck may not be flat.


What is the problem with the neck not being flat but the frets are? Assuming they are all seated properly. If the neck has slight back bow, forward bow, or twist, when the frets were originally levelled. Making the neck flat would then make a lot of work to get the frets flat. I just do not see the reason to look at the neck. I might just not be getting something fundamental here. Similarly to someone using a radius beam to level frets. I only care about the frets under each fret, so a thin straight sanding beam works fine and less material would be taken off the fret to get the desired result.

Regards Peter.


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## Swervin55 (Oct 30, 2009)

Silvertone said:


> What is the problem with the neck not being flat but the frets are? Assuming they are all seated properly. If the neck has slight back bow, forward bow, or twist, when the frets were originally levelled. Making the neck flat would then make a lot of work to get the frets flat. I just do not see the reason to look at the neck. I might just not be getting something fundamental here. Similarly to someone using a radius beam to level frets. I only care about the frets under each fret, so a thin straight sanding beam works fine and less material would be taken off the fret to get the desired result.
> 
> Regards Peter.


I have to agree. I use a good straight edge over the frets with feeler gauges to make sure the frets are flat before dressing.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

If you can't understand why you would want the NECK / fretboard to be level first, then level the frets it probably doesn't matter.


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## Silvertone (Oct 13, 2018)

player99 said:


> If you can't understand why you would want the NECK / fretboard to be level first, then level the frets it probably doesn't matter.


If you don't understand my question then I guess it doesn't matter.  You just keep all that knowledge of how straightening the fret board makes any difference if the frets are perfectly level and flat to yourself. 

Cheers Peter.


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## Tone Chaser (Mar 2, 2014)

The notched straight edge, a fret rocker, a sharpie, patience, and ability to see well up close, helped me to reseat 14 problematic frets on a newer guitar that I bought used. The original owner had the action mile high, and said that’s how he sets up all of his guitars. I wish that I would have owned a fret rocker, and had it with me. When I even slightly lowered the action, it was buzzing everywhere on the neck.

Before having these tools, I would have straightened the neck by eye, and sanded the offending frets on the neck. Try to dress with files, and polish.

The new to me tools, got me to actually set the neck flat. Then check with the fret rocker tool, marking high spot areas with the sharpie. 14 out of 22 questionable frets, made me look at the frets with more detail in an attempt to understand what was wrong. I could actually stick a thin pick, or a thin knife edge under most of those frets.

It took me twenty cautious minutes to softly seat those frets, by tapping the frets with a soft blow hammer, and checking with the fret rocker. I checked the fretboard for straightness several time along the way. The end result, gave me the ability to set the action ultra low, according to the string height gauge. Way lower than necessary, with no buzz, no need to sand, file or polish frets. I polished the frets anyway, and raised the action to the low electric guitar setting on the gauge. It plays exceptionally well now, all frets have stayed in place. I can only guess that the less than one year old guitar, was in a very dry winter environment, for that to happen. It has been stable since, in my humidified home.

I have taken a two way warp out of neck, by loosening the tension on a neck, and bending that neck over my thigh, with care, and tempered force. That taught me that necks can move a lot in ways that you would not expect. I applied a few drops of light oil down the truss rod adjustment hole, and let it hang for a half hour or so first.

The tools allow you to see and feel what needs to be done. If you don’t want to believe or understand that, you won’t be fixing repairable guitars. I find the tools priceless.


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## Lincoln (Jun 2, 2008)

knight_yyz said:


> I got mine from a guy on Ebay lives in Portugal. Nice thick aluminum and way cheaper than anyone else. Let me see if I can find him


I bought a bunch of guitar tools from the guy in Portugal. Good stuff, cheaper than StewMac and not from China.


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## player99 (Sep 5, 2019)

Silvertone said:


> If you don't understand my question then I guess it doesn't matter.  You just keep all that knowledge of how straightening the fret board makes any difference if the frets are perfectly level and flat to yourself.
> 
> Cheers Peter.


It makes sense to me to have the neck flat, then level the frets to a flat neck. If the neck is adjusted to the fret level, and the frets aren't evenly the same height (from playing wear, previous work, fall-away, lifting etc.) then the work is being done to the frets when the neck isn't flat. The flat neck is the foundation on which to build. An exaggerated example to make my point: What if the frets are flat when the neck is adjusted to have a back bow? To work on the frets when the neck has a back bow doesn't seem to be correct to me. Level the neck flat, then file the frets flat to the flat neck seems most logical to me.


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## zztomato (Nov 19, 2010)

Silvertone said:


> What is the problem with the neck not being flat but the frets are? Assuming they are all seated properly. If the neck has slight back bow, forward bow, or twist, when the frets were originally levelled. Making the neck flat would then make a lot of work to get the frets flat. I just do not see the reason to look at the neck. I might just not be getting something fundamental here. Similarly to someone using a radius beam to level frets. I only care about the frets under each fret, so a thin straight sanding beam works fine and less material would be taken off the fret to get the desired result.
> 
> Regards Peter.


If you follow the typical wear pattern of an experienced player, frets will wear down most heavily between 3 and 14 with perhaps some of the pitting you see in the "cowboy chord" area. If you are only doing a light levelling on a neck with minimal wear, it really is not that big of a deal if you _only _use the fret surface as a guid when levelling. You will still get a level playing surface. However, if you follow that principle through to its logical conclusion, after more than one levelling you will end up with very low frets from 3-14 and you will continue to back bow the neck to an unnatural position. The eventual outcome is a completely unplayable neck. Your frets will remain high at the upper end of the neck and no amount of truss adjustment will change anything from fret 14 to the end of the neck. 
The reason you work from a level fretboard instead of a level fret surface is so that you can bring the higher unworn frets down to match those that have some wear. Your method will result in major problems as the fret life decreases. The only times I've ever just used the fret surface to level frets is when I have a neck who's truss rod does not work properly. 
Those Stewmac notched straight edges are great. It is an invaluable tool for me.


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## alwaysflat (Feb 14, 2016)

Like trying to straighten the back gate on my fence, wood does what it wants. Rehanging hinges and latch is just temporary. The only time I'd reference other frets for a level, is to avoid time and cost. Sure you can make some very playable, but if you do it without knowledge that the neck has a twist, or other anomaly, they'll be back, perhaps multiple times. You can do it by eyeball, but that comes with a built in margin of error. 
Meanwhile, I use 24" aluminum rulers, vee-notched with my band saw. Levelling beam is an I-beam level with aluminum oxide strip.


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## knight_yyz (Mar 14, 2015)

I've watched at least a 1000 builds on youtube and everyone makes sure the neck is dead flat before a fret job. After the fret job, if you like/prefer, you can add a bit of relief with a tweek of the truss rod.


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## Fred Gifford (Sep 2, 2019)

I've always had a low threshold for cheesy, inadequate tools ... more trouble than they are worth .. I paid the money for the Stewmac Notched Straight-Edge years ago and never looked back .. well made, not overly expensive and it will last a lifetime ..


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## Tarbender (Apr 7, 2006)

I got mine from "Neck Check Guitar" many many years ago and it has served me well. One side for Fender, one side for Gibson, $25.00 USD.

Fender/Gibson Notched Straight Edge

Shipping was $4.90 USD back then.


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## billy.zg (10 mo ago)

knight_yyz said:


> Fratermusic is the username. You can find cheaper on eBay if you look hard enough but most will come from China.


Many thanks! Just figured the guy has an online store, everything looks good and priced well!

I am going to order from him directly to skip the ebay mob.





Luthier Tools, Jigs & Supplies Archives - Fratermusic - Guitar Parts and Luthier Tools


Guitar and Luthier Tools, Glues and Jigs



fratermusic.com





I am returning the $20 piece of crap guitar setup tools from Amazon. Got the package last week the fit and finish of the tools does not give me confidence to trust them.


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## THRobinson (Jun 29, 2014)

I bought a notched straight edge (2 sided for both commonly used scales) and a fret rocker from this place about 4yrs ago. Works fine.






Security Measure







www.ebay.ca





Sadly shipping seems to have gone up a bit since. May buy the bass straight edge from them as well since I now need one.


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