# Built My First BYOC Pedal This Week...Phaser



## keithb7 (Dec 28, 2006)

I finally got the gumption to try a BYOC pedal kit. I decided on the phaser as I do not own one so I thought why not start there. It was not difficult at all really. Follow the instructions and it'll work the first time you plug it in. I was pleasantly surprised in how well it sounds. I love it. A nice addition to my board.

If any of you are tempted to try a BYOC pedal, go for it! Before I bought the kit had some experience soldering, but not much. I practiced by doing the free "confidence booster" first. Actually I used the opportunity to do it with my 11 yr old son and introduce him to the fun side of electronics. The booster worked great, so I sent him off to bed and stayed up until about 1:30am wrapping up the phaser. I am hooked and can't wait to order up some more BYOC kits.

Personally I hate the small knobs that came with the phaser kit, so I'll be ordering some new larger MXR type knobs. I plan to paint the enclosure orange like the MXR phase 90 however I plan to put some other graphics on it with the name being "Atomic Punk". As in the VH song.

My son and I plan to turn the free confidence booster into a fully functioning pedal. We found a supplier for the rest of the parts we need to properly house the guts, add AC jack, LED, TPDT switch etc.

Just my .02 cents worth. Good luck!


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## Wheeman (Dec 4, 2007)

Paul said:


> I've got some BYOC pedals to build over the next few weeks. I'll be mounting them all in one enclosure:
> 
> http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg16.htm#10degree


A bit off-topic, but are you going to leave yourself the option to re-order the effects layout without any major surgery? I've thought about re-casing a bunch of my stuff into a large enclosure using 1/4" jacks and patch cables for the order.

On topic: Since I've been in school for the last four months, I ordered a kit off of generalguitargadgets that should be in soon (its a clone of an envelope filter, think auto-wah). Its a real thrill to be able to take a bunch of analogue electronics and piece them together to do something cool.


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## LowWatt (Jun 27, 2007)

keithb7 said:


> Personally I hate the small knobs that came with the phaser kit, so I'll be ordering some new larger MXR type knobs.


Good idea. Have a look at the upper right of the pedal board. That's my single knob BYOC phaser. That knob cost me $2 at the locall computers store and it's big enough that I can turn it with my foot. To the left of the knob (turning it down) it's labelled "Less Knob" and to the right of it (up) it's labelled "more knob"


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I love those enclosures, Paul, but keep in mind that the bigger the surface area, the more give the top of the chassis has. In turn, the more problematic they can be if you're installing footswitches or mounting anything else on the top.

There are three approaches to take. One is to install very soft-touch switches so that you don't rely on putting heavy pressure to actuate them. A second is to place supports inside so that the top does not buckle. A third is to place the stompswitches as comfortably close to the front skirt as you can, such that they are near a rigid part of the chassis. Doesn't hurt to combine approaches 2 and 3.

Keith, there are a number of mods and add-ons that be easily done to the basic P90, whether a BYOC kit, original or some other DIY unit.
1) *Variable resonance*. This one appears to come in the "script" version with no resonance, given the presence of only four 22k resistors. I can talk you through adding on variable resonance if you want, although the BYOC support forums may well list that. 
2) *Range adjustment*. The 250k bias trimpot on the inside/board adjusts the biasing of the FETs. However it also adjusts where the notches sweep in the frequencyrange to some extent. The full range of the pot will NOT necessarily by of use if you replace it with a panel-mount 250 pot, but you'll be able to tinker with it and achieve nice gurgley phasing, glassy top-end phasing, or in between.
3) *Intensity adjustment*. The dry and wet signals are blended in 50/50 proportions at the base of the 2N4125 transistor via two 150k resistors. If the resistance of the wet side is increased beyond 150k, the phasing effect becomes gentler and less in the foreground. Useful for when you want just a little animation in your tone but nothing so obvious. Best way to do that is to stick a 500k variable resistance (pot) in series with the 150k resistor on the wet side.
4) *Vibrato*. Not everyone's favourite, but still has some utility on occasion. If you install a toggle that simply lifts one end of the 150k mixing resistor on the dry side, such that you have only wet signal, you'll get vibrato.
5) *Rubber band*. The modulation rate peaks at somewhere around 3-4hz or so. If the modulation rate is increased so that it moves up into the audio range (so, speeds of >20hz) you get a ring modulator-like "rubber band" sound. Drop the .01uf cap in the LFO portion down to .0022uf or less and you should get a dramatic rise in modulation rate.


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## zontar (Oct 25, 2007)

Wheeman said:


> On topic: Since I've been in school for the last four months, I ordered a kit off of generalguitargadgets that should be in soon (its a clone of an envelope filter, think auto-wah). Its a real thrill to be able to take a bunch of analogue electronics and piece them together to do something cool.


I've been considering an envelope filter for a while. I've tried some out before and a kit sounds like fun too. That or an Octaver of some sort.


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## NB_Terry (Feb 2, 2006)

The BYOC MkII fuzz is supposed to be really good. 

Their new 1 second analog delay is supposed to be great as well.


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## keithb7 (Dec 28, 2006)

_"4) Vibrato. Not everyone's favourite, but still has some utility on occasion. If you install a toggle that simply lifts one end of the 150k mixing resistor on the dry side, such that you have only wet signal, you'll get vibrato."_

I'd definitely be interested in doing this mod. Being a bit of a beginner, what do you mean by lifting one end of the 150K mixing resistor on the dry side? How do I accomplish this?


Thanks.


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

Actually, I mean "lifting" in both the literal and figural sense, although it is probably better practice to lift both ends. 

First the easy part. Desolder the resistor, and run two wire leads from the pads where the resistor used to be. Now, get yourself a mini-toggle. Not being familiar with what's available in the way of suppliers in Kamloops, I'll simply say that The Source appears to be selling off the required toggle (SPST) these days for 96 cents. Solder the 150k resistor to one of the solder lugs on the switch. The thing to consider here is *how* to solder it. You want to avoid either fracturing the lead from the resistor by bending it too much, but you also want to avoid requiring so much space under the installed toggle that you have trouble fitting the board in there. The ideal is to use a 1/8W 150k resistor since they are much smaller, but if all you've got is the 1/4W unit that came with the pedal, then that's what well use. You may find that you need to bend the resistor upwards towards the handle of the switch in order to accommodate the board. Feel free to stabilize the resistor with a dab of hot glue to hold it in place on the switch., although since any subsequent solder joints will melt the glue you might want to wait until all the soldering is done.

Cut the wire you attached to what seems like an appropriate length - not so much that it is all bunched up inside the box, but not so little that you have the wires strectehd taut between the board and where the switch is installed. Solder one to the free end of the 150k resistor, and the other to the remaining lug on the switch. That's it. The switch simply disables the clean signal.

Note that since an SPST switch is the simplest possible switch configuration, you don't have to use one. You can use an SPDT, DPST or a DPDT switch, and simply ignore the unused lugs.


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## Last_Train (Nov 27, 2008)

I am planing to give one of these kits a try , either the BYOC kits or perhaps one of the others, would like to do the large beaver for starters. 

I have been reading a few DIY sites & following links to Parts sites to build up a bit of a list for say things like better knobs as mentioned before, does not have to look Cheap !! I think the custom paint idea will be fun also & a great winter project .


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## mhammer (Nov 30, 2007)

I encourage you to take a peek at the "pictures" thread over at the DIY Stompbox Forum ( http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.0 ) for some ideas about what can be done with respect to "boxing up" pedals, co-ordinating thngs inside, wiring, layout, positioning thngs, and graphics. Some truly impressive and innovative work on display - all 401 pages of it!

Do keep in mind that some of those folks have been at it for a number of years, and their professionalism shows. In other cases, it is a noble first attempt, and comes out okay for a novice working in their dorm room. In still other cases, though, you,re looking at the work of someone who had a couple of so-so attempts, but learned quickly and made the best use of the many wonderful resources available these days. It is truly surprising and inspiring what "regular folks" are able to accomplish with such ease.


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## Last_Train (Nov 27, 2008)

Wow checked out just some of the 400+ pages from mhammers link to DIY Stompboxes , some kool pedals & some different ideas for sure .

Keithb7 did you paint yours ?


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